Read the video description -- I have updated it with answers and thoughts after using the machine more.
@Ivandotjpeg7 күн бұрын
This is exactly how I do it. I’m using a hasselblad H4X/Macro lens and a phase one IQ280 80mpx back. I use mirror up mode and use capture one tethered on an older MacBook Pro. I’m using FireWire, as this powers the back. You do get camera shake with the shutter vibration if you’re not careful. BTW, negative supply’s premium 120 feeder is terrible and I’ve complained to high heaven. It’s built like a tank but it also functions like one. Hard to feed film through it. They really are not that great. I’m with you 100% except, I prefer to not give them anymore money until they fix their issues.
@aarontharris7 күн бұрын
100% agree about Negative Supply. While I was able to modify mine to reach a point that I am happy with it's performance, I should not have to modify anything at this premium price point. It is kind of silly that we now consider 3D printing to be a premium product. I'm all for 3D prints for home jobs and prototyping or even low-cost products, but I paid way too much for this Negative Supply gear to be content with 3D printed tools. **sigh** that's one of my buttons I guess ;)
@miklosnemeth85668 күн бұрын
What do you do with the ditital images you are scanning so meticulously from film? How do you "consume" photos? Do you print your scanned digital images?
@aarontharris7 күн бұрын
@miklosnemeth8566 I do print. I have some on my own wall, and I also give some away as gifts. However, this setup is not about resolution, for me, it's about speed and repeatability. I don't like waiting for the vibration to die down after each frame, I like turning a knob and clicking a button :)
@RedStarRogue17 күн бұрын
This is a VERY solid setup, I dare say, overkill even lol. My scanning setup is a little less refined, although I do use an old copy stand as well.
@leonnaffin17 күн бұрын
Thank you. This is exactly the information I need. I have the z7 as well and the same 50mm. I thought I would need a macro lens. But the macro ring makes so much sense for scanning.
@aarontharris17 күн бұрын
I'm glad I could help. The 50mm F1.8 works well, just remember to stop down to at least F8 for copy-work. For macro-work 50mm generally does not yield enough working distance (same is true for a real 50mm macro lens). To reach 1:1 you're almost touching the subject. The 50mm can work for 1:2 or 1:3 magnification (which is how I'm using it in the video). If you want to do a lot of macro, I recommend the 200mm F4. It is without a doubt the best, but unfortunately it does not autofocus on Z-bodies. If you want autofocus, the 105mm F2.8 F-Mount lens is just as good as the new Z-Mount but much cheaper.
@fbraakman24 күн бұрын
Using LR to tether, it also has an auto focus button and a shutter button so you don't need to touch the camera to focus or trip the shutter. I suspect that C1 has the same function.
@aarontharris24 күн бұрын
Yes, you're right, it does have both AF and a Shutter button. The wireless shutter is mostly for convenience being able to fire in one hand while advancing with the other is pretty handy. My setup sits on the same desk as my mouse -- not that the mouse transmits any noticeable vibration, though, I noticed I tend to rest my wrist on the desk which does sometimes transmit some slight vibration if I'm not paying attention and forget to lift my wrist before firing. So (for me) the wireless trigger also helps solve my lazy wrists :)
@ronbokje6213Ай бұрын
My camera (Pentax K1 markII) has built in digital filters, with color negatives I put the camera in negative filter and tweaked the white and color balance to be close to what I want and save the white balance and color profile and set the camera back to RAW. to get the best results I hooked up my monitor with HDMI to my camera. now it is just shooting and reverse it to negative and you have a very nice baseline to start if you want to edit your photo's in photoshop.
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
@@ronbokje6213 cool trick, does using the built-in filter result in jpeg?
@ronbokje6213Ай бұрын
@@aarontharris I don’t think so, I think it would be a JPG. Most filters will be applied on JPG and not a RAW file. I never tried it.
@PhazosАй бұрын
Doesn't the Z7 have IBIS? What would a 4 second exposure look like, with and without IBS switched off?
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
I turn IBIS off. It is recommended to disable IBIS when shooting from a tripod. I have read various things such as "IBIS on a tripod will introduce vibration" or even, "IBIS on a tripod can damage the IBIS system". I'm not sure if those are true, but I do disable IBIS anyway.
@AlexKrokeАй бұрын
zIf you crop before you start editing you will have a histogram that make sense in C1P. Also I have the histogram display 4 time one for each color. you don’t have to switch from one to another and you see when you clip colors. In C1P setting, exposure use channel Mode Red,green and Blue and Pick target 0-255 upi may find useful a plugin for C1P called “Analog Toolbox for Capture One” it is beta but like NLP
@srmrlrАй бұрын
I use an old slide copy stand, that I can put a camera on now. I use an LED light source, and a wireless camera release. Perhaps, I'll do a video for my set up.
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
Nice, I would love to see a video.
@TheDevmapallАй бұрын
Hi, great tutorial, but I have a suggestion to improve your results from NLP as a long time user: As far as I understand it, NLP works fully on what it can "see" on the screen, so it basically does the same thing that you did in Capture One with the pipettes for the highlights and shadows for all channels in Levels, but it lacks a brain to differentiate what is part of the image and what is part of the frame, so it was just picking shadow for all channels on the emulsion of the film and highlights on all channels on the film holder. In order to get good results from it from the start you need to crop your images before conversion (either using the crop tool in Lightroom to remove all of the frame around the photo, or using the "border buffer" option with preview enabled). Only after you convert the image you can de-crop it back to what you want to have as a final image. Try to see if you can maybe crop one of your images to only show the actual image, then convert with NLP, then after conversion remove the crop and see how that goes :) Also one more note: you can correct the blue tint in highlights to some degree in the White Balance section of NLP by just moving the sliders there in the Highs sub-menu.
@TheDevmapallАй бұрын
Ah, one more: with a proper conversion done in NLP color will not shift when adjusting exposure, contrast etc. which is why I still use NLP instead of doing this completely manually. If you want to have a chat and maybe see some heavy NLP based editing then I'd be happy to talk :D
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
Thank you, that is a great suggestion and makes perfect sense. I will definitely try it.
@adtechniquesАй бұрын
@@TheDevmapall Do you have any video tuts for NLP convert processing?
@TheDevmapallАй бұрын
@@adtechniques I don't, sorry, but maybe I should make one actually... When I get some scans I'll see what I can do and if I post something I'll try to remember to ping you :)
@adtechniquesАй бұрын
@@TheDevmapall tks you
@olio_benzinaАй бұрын
Very nice and ridged film scanning setup. Surprised you're not using a macro lens, your standard 50mm must be very good. I use a Micro Nikkor 55mm f2.8.
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
Thank you! It's the Nikon Z 50mm F1.8, it's pretty good wide open but not good enough for copy-work until stopped down to F8. I would prefer to use my macro lens, but I have the Nikkor 200mm F4 Micro which unfortunately does not autofocus on a Z-body camera. I actually did tests and found that when I nailed the manual-focus, the 200mm was better, but in reality I was misfocused too often, so I decided to accept the 50mm. Maybe one day I'll get a G or Z macro lens :)
@orion7741Ай бұрын
this is extremely over thinking and over engineering for what you are doing. good for you for creating projects for yourself and keeping yourself busy, but most of the stuff in your set up is really not at all necessary for getting good film scans. camera shake is honestly a non issue with film scanning even with the most basic setup.
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
Makes sense, I am an engineer. Everyone has different priorities and experiences. I'm not telling anyone they're doing it wrong -- I'm just sharing what works well for me. If others find it useful that's great. I'm not a youtuber and I'm not doing this for "views". I found that while using a copy stand I would get some vibration at lower shutter speeds and it was causing me to lose some detail. I did not want to raise the ISO as it caused me to lose flexibility while pulling shadows out of my film negatives, especially in black and white. This setup gave me two things. #1 it is really fast to load the film and scroll through each frame. #2 it allowed me to really get the shutter speed down while maintaining ISO 65 and F8. No doubt there are other ways and probably even better ways.
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
PS - If it makes any difference, I am scanning 120 Film, not 35mm. I agree for 35mm and tend to be less careful, but 120 I often try to squeeze out what I can.
@jorbin7417Ай бұрын
Used to have a setup like this but I wanted shakier scans
@zaprowsdower3911Ай бұрын
Awesome set up
@jw48335Ай бұрын
This is nice, but I would consider this older-generation equipment at this point. I use a Blackscale Labs holder for 120 and a Valoi Easy35 for 135. The copy stand mess - it gives me nightmares. With the two options I mention, it utterly eliminates camera shake, because the camera is either connected to the holder or literally resting on the holder. I find the dust brush on the Easy35 does well enough, but for the 120 I use a Kinetronics Staticvac. I don't mind the holder on Blackscale as I cut my film for storage anyway, and I have enough holders to load a full roll of 120 at once.
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
I reference the blackscale labs in the video -- not by name, but I mentioned the "rings and you set the camera on top" -- I had forgotten the name. I think its a good idea and similar in principle to what I'm doing in that the camera's weight is supported by the table and the film planes are aligned. The one thing I would miss about the blackscale labs is the film advance and having to use the film holder trays. I remember those from flatbed scanning and they were big reasons why I switched to SLR scanning. As for the copy-stand -- there are smaller versions of this stand, its just what I already owned. But this is a permanent set up for me and I like to be able to raise and lower the camera for to swap out 120 for 35. Which is just a matter of changing the film carrier.
@johngabris9690Ай бұрын
just use a decent flat bed scanner
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
I think there are pros and cons to each. I used a flatbed scanner for years and I got good results. These days though, I really like the speed of digitizing with an SLR.
@leonhardbokowski81Ай бұрын
Have you tried re-scanning some of your negatives with a setup like this? Once you camera scan once, you never go back. It's night and day
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
@@leonhardbokowski81 I like the way you think! Measurable results. I am constantly refining my process and improving. Some time ago I did a flatbed scan test compared to DSLR and I liked the DSLR better because I could manually focus on the image whereas the flatbed scanner was always slightly off at the edges due to slight curling. But I noticed the biggest improvement with speed when I used the film carrier because I can focus once and just advance advance advance. As for improvement in detail, the only real advantage this current setup gets me over my earlier (without resting the camera on the table vs now resting it on the table) -- I was able to drop my ISO from 400 to 64 by reducing my shutter speed. That 400 to 64 reduced a lot of noise. Most people think ISO 400 is very clean and it usually is, but with film when you're sliding the levels you're already adding a fair amount of gain -- so working from ISO 400 is just compounding the noise. Starting from ISO 64 helped a lot. I wish I had a side by side comparison to show you, but I do not have anything on-hand. Maybe that's my next video?
@leonhardbokowski81Ай бұрын
@@aarontharris For me the speed is/was a huge factor as well. I usually dev and scan in large batches so I need things to go quick :) Other than that, the quality is just much better. It's easier to get dust free scans (digital ICE produces some ghosting), sharpness is better, noise is better and best of all there is so much more highlight and shadow detail! I shoot a lot of expired film and with my camera setup, you can get really nice results that would have been completely unusable with the flatbed
@parthasur6018Ай бұрын
I use an EPSON V500 scanner. It is very easy to use. Excellent results.🙂
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
The best workflow is the one that makes you happy :)
@arvidjohansson3120Ай бұрын
I would be interested to see how you convert using Capture 1.
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
I'm not a youtuber, but I will try to find some time to put that together.
@aarontharrisАй бұрын
Here you go: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kIfbioZmapp8m7M
@bbcc-p7w2 ай бұрын
Awesome! Have to try it! Thank you
@Guenounovitch8 ай бұрын
chinese item doing what it does best, suck
@aarontharris8 ай бұрын
I have had a really great experience with my 2 DF64v grinders. They are outstanding.
@himedia51658 ай бұрын
This machine should be able to grind steal beans. 680w brushless 💪🏻
@jackowens_9 ай бұрын
How do you find in the cup compared DF64v both DLC's?
@aarontharris9 ай бұрын
I have done a thorough review at home-barista.com (I'll add the link to the description). Though, the short answer, switching from DLC to SSP Lab Sweet, made a big difference, going from 64 to 83 made very little difference. Though I am not an expert at "tasting".
@RasenRambo239 ай бұрын
DF64V addressed this with the Oct 2023 circuit board and slow feeder bean disk. Hopefully they'll also upgrade the next batch of DF83V.
@aarontharris9 ай бұрын
I agree. I'm really not worried about it. I don't "dump" my beans in anyway. I have had no issues as long as I feed slightly slower.
@simonshandrinov90799 ай бұрын
C'mon, 600W+ motor should not even think on stalling however light the roast or how quick you pour the beans down...or even the finess of the setting...go ask Mazzer major with no pre-breakers and hopper usually full. Must be a kind of too sensitive safety system...annoying thing to have in such a beast otherwise IMHO :C
@aarontharris9 ай бұрын
I agree, I think it is a protection mechanism. The motor seems strong.
@royack9 ай бұрын
Is that a 110v or 220v grinder?
@aarontharris9 ай бұрын
110v
@royack9 ай бұрын
@@aarontharris thx! Looks to me like an over protective motor protection 😂
@EspressoOutlet9 ай бұрын
If you are going to hit start don't dump on so fast, especially at such a small grind size. If hot start, pour in slowly. Control board is programmed to shut off if senses to much resistance and dropping in like that will trip it
@aarontharris9 ай бұрын
My DF64v doesn't have an issue. Also any grinder with a bean hopper will dump just as fast. In the case of the DF83v, the auger should feed the beans at an appropriate rate. Having said that, it does go away when I pour slower, so not a deal breaker.
@russb3n9 ай бұрын
I can’t see what RPM you are on but if a low RPM and fine setting 15 mine does it too when throwing everything in quickly,but if I drop a little at a time no problem
@aarontharris9 ай бұрын
1100 RPM
@sciproant9 ай бұрын
Holy shit this is genius
@oneeyeman625811 ай бұрын
Freakin' Brilliant!
@pasqualevitale2746 Жыл бұрын
Il contenitore è quello originale? Oppure si trova in commercio? Chi lo vende e come si chiama?, grazie
@aarontharris Жыл бұрын
il contenitore non è originale. sembra stampato in 3d. qualità molto scarsa. l'ho comprato su ebay.
@jayr526 Жыл бұрын
I found the link on Blade Forums. GENIUS!!! Thanx.
@FelixImmler Жыл бұрын
Super cool video... In this video i show you how to make a Goniometer for under 10$... kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4HLe4VjacSojJo
@rolandthomasset17132 жыл бұрын
you should check the contacts on these replacement batteries. The proper readings should be 11.7 volts. Of course you can’t beat the true Rollei battery pack. The cells are not easy to install (soldering). I did it but also got a couple of hot short scary circuts ! No damage however.
@aarontharris Жыл бұрын
You're right! I just plugged the camera into a bench power supply (by dissecting a battery pack) and probed the camera at various voltages and found that this camera will not power up on less than 10.65v. The "Battery Condition" levels acknowledge voltages between 10.7v and 11.85v. The camera appears to operate just fine up to 13.5v. I put my findings in the video description.
@kierstinschmidt25142 жыл бұрын
For this method to be accurate you absolutely must move the center of the protractor to the intersection point of the bevel lines. Otherwise your angle indicator is going to be incorrect. Typically that would be the center of the protractor being at the at the same height of the knife and completely in line with the laser, and the point of reflection on the knife. Yours is lower because the table is supporting both the cardboard of the knife and the protractor sheet. It looks like you have the side to side calibration correct. If you put the angle markings on a riser you can adjust that similar to how you adjust the lateral movement of the blade.
@aarontharris2 жыл бұрын
I think that is helpful when the laser projection is linear, not curved. When curved there is no single point on the laser projection that is "correct". The tail of the projection represents the edge of the blade. The base of the projection represents the primary bevel. The middle of the projection represents the smoothness of the transition between edge and the primary bevel (rounded in my case because I strop my knives). You're really looking for the line on the protractor that is parallel to the part of the laser projection you're interested in. As long as you are comparing the parallels, then the protractor will give you your answer without having to center anything. Sliding around to get the lines closer for comparison will likely help though.
@dcuttingedge54222 жыл бұрын
This is GREAT!!! Getting some laser pointers to try it out. Thank you!!
@davidabarak2 жыл бұрын
"Tell them what you're going to tell them. Tell them. Then tell them what you told them." Hence a one minute, seven second video of a guy pushing a button.
@aarontharris2 жыл бұрын
Did you read the video description? I made this video specifically to demonstrate to a friend on a photography forum how the latch sticks. Forgive me for not having that professional KZbinr polish.
@jayytee80623 жыл бұрын
Outstanding!
@jojojaykay3 жыл бұрын
Pretty neat thanks for sharing
@Iamjohnsv3 жыл бұрын
Guys like you are keeping America great!
@theiconichawk34003 жыл бұрын
Geez this game has some good graphics
@aarontharris2 жыл бұрын
Hahaha
@joconcetta3 жыл бұрын
I have a Rolleiflex 6006 and the battery is shot. I have looked at Mignon1 as well but after reading the reviews here I'm unsure about purchasing. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I could use or where I can find a battery.
@CentaurusRelax3143 жыл бұрын
Did you find a solution?
@nextpicture4 жыл бұрын
ugly solution, but i know its hard, getting an empty battery tray. i am affraid its not a good way to use three of this 14500 with integrated protection board, they wont work in series. The right way ist to use three 14500 without protection board but with a separate battery management system. The higher voltage of an actual li-ion cell package cant be a problem. i work on a simple refill solution, with li-ion and bms, it works now flawless with SL 6002 6006 in first tests.. have a look at my videos how easy the change is.
@NC-oc3ld4 жыл бұрын
KZbin really hid this video. I wish I found it sooner. I've done multiple searches for GX680 over the year and this finally showed up after being posted over 2 years ago. Damn it youtube.