Thank you. I used small Dominos on the mitered front/sides.

Hello, short answer is yes. Please email me at [email protected] to discuss.

Yes, this is a risk. To reduce that risk, I work the leaves in and out numerous times before applying the finish. I note any scratches and sand accordingly on the top surface of the leaf and bottom surface of the tabletop until there are no scratches. Then, I apply 3 coats of Tried & True oil/wax finish to the entire table, buffing w/0000 steel wool between coats. Once the finish is fully cured, I come back around and apply a coat of Annie Sloan's hard wax to the tops of the leaves, the top of the table, and the underside of the tabletop. This adds a pretty good layer of protection. All that said, there still is some risk of scratches as the table moves with seasonal humidity changes, however with the precautions outlined above, if they do appear they are very faint and can usually be rubbed out.

I don't have plans, but you can try searching the Fine Woodworking archives for the article featuring Tommy MacDonald making this table. An alternative is Tage Frid's book where he documents how to make this table.

Hey Kerry - I just looked at another person's 'plans' for a similar table, and I realize that the rails that attach to the leafs are not a uniform height. It appears that this taper is what allows the leafs to be flat when extended. Could you tell us what kind of calculations you used to determine the amount of taper required, and where the tapers start? That would be SOOO helpfull!

The leaves do indeed lay flat when extended. Re: the calculation for the taper on the rail, it's a bit difficult to describe, but here's the process. Once you have your leaves put together and surfaced to final thickness, you take your rail stock and lay it perpendicular to the leaf so that it is in the orientation that it will be when fastened to the leaf. Make sure the front of the rail is flush with the edge of the leaf (use your finger to ensure the end is flush) and then mark a line across the rail where it meets the back (opposite edge) of the leaf. Next, take the rail off the leaf and butt the edge of the rail up to the edge of the leaf and mark a line across the rail edge where it meets the surface of the leaf. You should now have a pencil mark across the front edge of the rail and another mark that corresponds to the width of the leaf. Transfer the mark at the back of the rail to the side of the rail and use a straight edge to connect the mark on the front edge to the top of the mark on the back edge. This will be your taper. Be sure to mark the waste area properly as it's easy to get confused and cut the wrong section. Here's a link to the "build" video for this table where you can see me do this process -- kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJzKmp-ud76WqKM@@fredillies

Stupid comment about a stupid sport

Yes, you can make a larger top and leaves. You'll just use the existing base and the "trenches" in the aprons to guide the placement of the rails that attach to the undersides of the leaves.

I would definitely go deeper on the base. When loaded with tools it can be a bit "tippy" when moving it around.

I'm sure I could work it out.

@@GothamWoodworks if I send you the dimensions of what I'm after, please will you let me know if you could make it, and how much it would cost for materials and labour and shipping? How can I get in touch with you please?

Abolutely. [email protected] @@SuzyJarman

Hello. It's a Barth Multipress RP4001. I purchased it from Rangate (www.rangate.com).

Correct. The orientation of the grain on the leaves is perpendicular to the support rails, which are screwed into the underside of the leaves, so they act to keep the leaves flat. Thanks for tuning in!

Correct, I glue stop blocks to the tapered rails. I over-extend the leaf by about a 1/2" and mark the placement of the stop on the rail and then glue on the stops. By over-extending, it allows you to pull the leaf out a little bit beyond where the top drops down so that the edges don't rub against each other. Once the top drops into position you just push the leaf slightly to snug up to the edge of the top.

@@GothamWoodworks

I'd be happy to make you an extra large version. Hit me up via email to get the ball rolling. Thanks!

It will curl a bit if left out for a period of time, but not too much.

I use 7/8" as the width of the dados/trenches in the aprons, and thus the thickness of the leaf rails is also 7/8" (If you use white oak or ash for the supports you can get away with 3/4") The thickness of the tabletop and leaves is 7/8" each, so when in the closed position, the combined thickness is 1 3/4" (7/8 top sitting atop 7/8 leaves). Therefore, the leaf rail blanks will be 1 3/4" (i.e., 7/8 x 2) wide x 7/8" thick. Length should be calculated as follows: 2 x width of leaf + width of cross support. So if you have an 18" wide leaf and a 3" wide cross support, the leaf rail should be at least 39". Next comes the taper of the leaf support rails. What I do is place the leaf on a flat surface, then I take the support rail on edge and butt one end to the edge of the leaf. I then take a knife or sharp pencil and draw a line across the end of the rail where it meets the leaf (running my knife or pencil along the leaf to make a mark across the end of the rail) This establishes the beginning of the taper. Next, place the rail across the top of the leaf so that the end you just marked is flush along the edge of the leaf (either the outside or inside edge of the leaf, doesn't matter). Use your finger to make sure the end of the rail is flush with the edge of the leaf. Now, strike a line from the opposite edge of the leaf where it meets the rail. Use a square to extend the line around the rail. This establishes the other end of the taper. Now, lay the rail on its side, and using a straight edge, connect the line that bisects the front edge of the rail to the top edge of the second line. This establishes the taper. Mark the waste area and cut the taper on your bandsaw or table saw. Important: when cutting the trenches in the aprons, make sure you offset them by at least the width of the rails (e.g., 7/8), otherwise the rails will hit each other when both leaves are pushed in. I usually come in 2" from either end of Apron "A", and at least 2 7/8" from either end of Apron "B" so the rails pass by each other when they are closed. Hopefully this is clear.

@@GothamWoodworks thanks so much for the help

​@Gotham Woodworks hey I'm sorry to bother you again. But I made a mock up of the leaf and cross piece before I cut into the actual table. And with the leaf fully extended its at a drastic upward angle. Do I have my taper wrong,? I don't understand how you get the leaf to sit flat.

@@marcustobolski9921 The angled side of the taper attaches to the underside of the leaf so the entire "straight" edge of the rail rides in the "trench". Send your email address to me and I'll provide a more detailed explanation. [email protected]

@@GothamWoodworks Once you measure the rail taper using your edge marking method and cut it, do you then trim the rail length shorter so that it is flush with the apron when the leaf is in the closed postion (offset from the edge of the tabletop/leaf)? Or does this taper angle allow for adjustment and still end up with a flush tabletop when extended? Like shown at 13:14 in the video you are aligning the rail flush with the apron. Thank you!

No, because the top is supported by 2 cross-rails that are the same thickness as the top and leaves, so when either leaf is pulled out, the leaf rises to meet the top. In other words, it looks like the top is resting on the leaves, but it's really resting on the cross rails. Hopefully, that makes sense.

Gracias, y de nada.

Thank you!

Thank you. The CNC was a bit overkill for the box but wanted to see if it could handle it.

Thank you!

I used CrystaLac Wood Grain Filler (available on Amazon). It was the first time I used it. It's water based so it went on very easy compared to other fillers I've used. As for the Osmo, I ended up doing 3 coats. I started with the Satin, but decided a gloss would look better. They don't make a semi-gloss, but the gloss looks great -- not too shiny. I could have gotten away with 2 coats if not for the change. I very light sanding between coats.

Thanks Carl. I have used a butterfly routing template in the past but I wanted to use "slimmer" butterflies. The template - at least the one I have - makes them look kind of fat/chunky. It took about 5 minutes to draw them in Vcarve using a piece of scrap walnut for the material. Of course, knifing and excavating the cavities on the table took about 20 minutes each, so it was definitely not a time saver, but I got the look I was going for, which was to be not too perfect and with some slight variations.

I used a straight compression bit to cut the butterflies. I hadn't thought of a taper bit but that would be interesting. The only potential issue would be making sure the knife was flush to the sides when marking the table. Re: the dominos, you're correct. I lightly sanded the dominos before I put them in so a few were a bit loose.

Yes, they are called "breadboard ends" and they are designed to keep the top flat. The center tenon on the main top is glued into the corresponding mortise; the tenons on either side are not glued to allow the top to expand/contract with changes in humidity. They are secured with pegs.

Here's another video showing more detail on the breadboard end in a Blanket Chest top kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmjQi6KMZq6pqtU

@@GothamWoodworks thank you for detailed explanation , you gave me great inspiration