Thank you for posting this video, great job! I'll be using Finish 1.

Dude mine just slams into gear, the clutch is engaged and won't disengage unless i shift to Neutral

I just ordered my test. I got the order confirmation email. But there’s nothing else. No follow up email about what to expect next. It’s an uncomfortable feeling paying and then feeling in the dark. But uhhh, did someone call you to setup an appointment to get blood drawn? I called the 10x number on their website and that rep seemed just as lost. She couldn’t find my name or order number in the system. I’m not really sure what to do right now.

Mate -- Try using your stomach to roll out the paint

when they say 80/180 it means 80 on bare steel, 180 on filler, paint, primer. the tooth left in the steel isnt as deep or big. i always did 120 on steel, 240 min on filler, paint, primer but usually softened with 320. no adhesion issues or sand scratch swelling yet and i fixed my moms car 6 years ago and 13 years ago on my grandfathers car. i used bondo brand bodyfill too. im licensed here in canada.

Most primers recommend sanding bare metal with 180 before priming, should bare metal be brought to 220?

This was a good video and will hopefully save someone a big heartache on their first paint job. Personally I like epoxy over filler then urethane over epoxy.

Don't some primer's tds (epoxy, for instance) say to prime over 80 grit on bare metal? Are you sanding with a finer grit for urethane primer?

DA to cut the skin of the primer & block it out with 320.... DA over that with 400/500/600 for base prep...

It shrinks and swells even after you block it out with 320/buzz with 500 prior to sealer and paint...... I cant stand when the body guy rolls on primer over 40&80grit.... Break it down with a few swipes of 180 or 220 quick...

I'm just going to throw in my opinion from the 30 yrs I've been doing thus typically primer shrinks A because it's not of good quality or B the area in question has not been worked or prepared as flat as possible

Good info thanks.

So what would you take it to before priming. 320??

This would be a very good answer for painting the underside of the body

excellent! thank you

That is why I get people like you do the job right!!👍

Hey, what's up, dude? I just got my truck painted, and my paint guy requested Finish 1 740. It came out nice. I live in Tucson, AZ. Can you do a comparison with finish 1 740 vs U-pol 2323. They are both sold in Amazon for Finish 1 740 $120 vs U-pol 2323 $80 to end the competition?

What bore size is it if mine is a 110cc

Can the swimming pool effect be used in advantage to darken a panel ?

So your probably better off reducing first flow coat to melt into first spray and then don't reduce last coat of flow

When you have to bare down with 320 to prove a point you already have.

If you risk stacking clear without Solvent pop last coats will have to be so dry your just laying over them anyway unless you reducer the clear too melt together and then risk dye back.

Been there many times thinking I can live with stacked clear and wasn't happy until I knocked it down and flow coated.

There is another way which I prefer. I sand the plastic down to 1000. Then Tamco epoxy it which is glue and sealer all in one. Then base coat, then clear coat with Matting agents if I need different type of finish (flat, satin, gloss). Plastic can have reactions to paint, or promoters, so I prefer epoxy and seal it all down before paint. There is another commercial method that pros use but I won't talk about it here. Your way is good, but I don't like playing with promoters, sealers and plastics.

How much did you pay for the tests and vitamins?

Thanks for sharing

This is what i needed bruh, this is the path im following to work on the 55 chevy truck im working on, actually it has a lot of bondo and need some metal work, im sanding until metal, now i now this is the way in taking. Thankd bro!

Is the adhesion promoter necessary?

I've using Sherwin Williams SU 522 dtm primer I've seen very little shrinkage with it

I use an inner coat clear 1st ! Can sand next day & carry on with a true flow coat !!Ppg dbc clear great for a real flow coat

I thought they had a phone number one could call and ask questions... Thank you for your honest review...

Thanks for doing this. I am using the Finish 1 on my restoration project and love the way it applies and flows to eliminate or significantly reduce peal. I do like that the Finish 1 doesn't chip or tear easly. Clean cuts if you will. I did the window surround about a year ago and still looks great. Now, the engine bay was done a week ago.

Thank you so much will definitely do this when i change my oil

I you should have tried tipping it with a brush after rolling and be why don't you use that rolling additive in the other paints cheers Graham

This was 2 coats of clear on each panel?

Thank you good video!

Dope!

I use a lot of Urechem products. Have you tested their stuff?

East wood do rust etch, rust converter and rust dissolver. The rust dissolver is for the heavy rust on chassis. The rust converter is there for surface rust on panels. The rust etch is also designed for panels if its not too heavy. They have a good video here...let you decide what the best for the kind of work you need it for. kzbin.info/www/bejne/en24nomDgdGWsJI I want to see how the gel works compared to the liquid on serious corrosion, but looks like good stuff anyway. Krud Kutter appears to be the fastest acting liquid dissolver (soaking). For the gels I am trying to gauge the difference between rustoleum, naval jelly and the eastwood option.

what is your preferred body filler. i’m debating between rage gold and rage ultra.

Pretty sure I heard you eating candy there...

I flow coat every show car. I also believe in cutting and buffing every show car I do no matter how good it looks. Flow coating will give you a cleaner finish than stacking. You are also not going to burn through wet sanding by hand with 600grit, a sanding block, and water prior to flow coating. Mill thickness is not why you flow coat. Its to get a cleaner finish

Ive always liked Sikkens, and Acme Finish 1 both their FP410 and FP415. SpeedOKote DTM in the green & white can works ok for some applications. I really do not like the UPOL it shrinks really bad from my experience. One of my favorites I have gotten minimal shrinkage with is House of Kolor KD3000 series DTS surfacer/sealer. It's a bit more expensive for a gallon kit than the rest you have there except Sikkins as you would expect anything HOK to be expensive. However the HOK sprays really nice both as a high build and when reduced to a sealer and it sands very nicely.

There all together How stupid is that hoping for a result AFFA angels never die nffn HMS council

There was this guy on you tube who had a 1966 Corvette stingray he said it took home six months to roll on paint and ten coats of roll on paint half burgundy and half white it looked sharp

Thanks for the shout out ! 👍🏻 Bottom line= some prep is definitely better than no prep.

Good video, thanks!

Been there done that.

Awesome thanks man…God bless!

You need to wear so good gloves!!!