Defpom, I think you might have overlooked something about this device, in regard to how many snubber diodes it has. Studying still frames from your video, it looks to me like there are indeed FOUR 3-terminal SMD devices marked "T", and those would be the relay coil drive transistors as you stated. Then I see TWO more 3-terminal SMD devices marked "D", and I postulate that each of those are actually dual diodes in one package, sharing a common anode or common cathode. I don't know if you already did a detailed study of the PCB traces in this regard, and might have ruled out what I am suggesting.....? I think your solution is a good one, it is what I would have done, although I probably would have preferred to add TWO outboard relays rather than move the coil control for one relay to the next one, but then your solution takes up less space in the panel. In my pre-retirement career, I used lots of OMRON stuff, but never used their micro-controler products such as this. I used many others by various other brands, such as TECO (my favorite), Siemens (the worst), Allen-Bradley (pretty decent), etc. About 10 years ago I got a good deal on the TECO ones in their OEM version (same circuits, but no case, buttons or screen....MUST program them using the software and a cable) and bought a good sized box full of them, in 4 and 8 output versions, and various input voltage versions. The cables are cheap, and TECO's simple programming software is free the last time I looked, and will run on pretty much any version of Windows. I use them from time to time, solving small control problems for friends, etc. The biggest issue I have with this type of "micro-PLC" is that invariably the software resources are inadequate to realize the full potential of the hardware. For example, I have often used these to replace older "cam timers" in old control panels. A program for such would simply be two timers per output, so a 4-output device would require at least 8 timers, and I usually found that only six timers were available, or some other stupid limitation like that. A BIIIG sin was one brand of 8-output device only had 10 timers available, no nearly enough to program separate ON and OFF times for each relay. And there are usually pretty severe limitations on how many 'contacts' can be on each 'rung' of a ladder program (or the equivalent in logic-block programming), and/or not enough rungs available to write a program of the complexity I desire. A rep from Allen-Bradley, responding to my bitching about this kind of thing, said that such limitations were deliberate, otherwise too many customers would be able to use them instead of stepping up the the next level of controller, which always costs at least 10 times as much.
@thomaswight237417 сағат бұрын
See now you have me wondering about tying several of these together to sorta extend the ladder. Downside would be you’re limited to 4 bits, and if anyone saw what you did you might be institutionalized.
@youtuuba16 сағат бұрын
@thomaswight2374 , I have tried several schemes to chain multiple of these together to get more outputs, especially to replace larger cam timers. The problem is that, other than wasting inputs and outputs, there is no way to synchronize them. And with only 4 outputs, losing even one in the service of synchronizing, that is a hard pill to swallow.
@TheDefpom11 сағат бұрын
Yes I overlooked that the diodes were dual diode packages, that would make a LOT more sense than not having all relay coils done the same way, I guess I was too focused on the charcoal PCB LOL. I should learn some more about PLC programming and ladder systems, I haven't done it myself but assisted industrial electricians in the past to setup devices, so I only know what I observed at the time.
@DeviloftheHelll22 сағат бұрын
the problem was. lack of maintance :)
@TheDefpom21 сағат бұрын
@@DeviloftheHelll quite possibly yes, however this was not installed in an industrial situation so there was no maintenance program for it.
@helmut335623 сағат бұрын
Waste time.
@TheDefpom23 сағат бұрын
@@helmut3356 I disagree, I fixed it and got the system up and running again within a couple of hours, rather than it being down for 4 days.
@helmut335622 сағат бұрын
@@TheDefpom Yes. That makes sense. I would probably be afraid to put it into normal operation, as a fully functional element.
@del4you2Күн бұрын
Stop watching after he said that a programmable relay is a PLC. You clearly don't know the difference between PLC's and programmable relays. This kind of video should never be allowed by youtube.
@TheDefpom23 сағат бұрын
@@del4you2 how about you let people make up their own minds instead of telling people what to think, the video is about fixing a blown up controller, regardless of what words I used to describe it.
@TheEmbeddedHobbyist22 сағат бұрын
@@TheDefpom if the output from the PLC is a set of relays, then would it not be programable logic relays. 🙂 Would be interesting to see if he/they take the time to make a video expanding on the difference.
@youtuuba19 сағат бұрын
Wow del4you2, what a harsh thing to say right out of the gate. I might suggest that such abrupt comments should not be allowed on KZbin! Since you suggest that Defpom does not "know the difference between PLC's and programmable relays", and me speaking as an electrical engineer designing PLCs, and specifying and designing them into massive industrial control systems for over 40 years, as well us using the tiny "micro"/"nano"'/"pico" things such as the one in this video, I suggest that your own understanding of the distinction is lacking and thus your comment is no better than the pot calling the kettle black, and likely worse than that. For your information, there is no standard regarding the naming of these tiny programmable controllers; the names they are given is left up to marketing people at the various manufacturers. One company's "programmable relay" might well be called a "micro-PLC" by another company. It is true that SOME manufacturers use the term "programmable relay" for less-capable devices and reserve the name "PLCs" for their more-capable devices of the same size, but many others don't follow that philosophy.
@thomaswight237418 сағат бұрын
What’s the difference? (aside from the model name some marketing guy picked out)
@p.j.wilkins132114 сағат бұрын
@@TheDefpom Scott, that's hilarious that you pinned this trash comment... I'm going to just assume that this guy is playing 69-level chess - he actually loves your videos and just did this to start a flame war to drive engagement. Maybe I should play along... DEFPOM SHOULD BE CHARGED WITH TREASON!!!! (am I doing this right?)
@allthegearnoidea6752Күн бұрын
I would grind out all the damaged board and let in a new bit of glass fibre. I wouldnt replace the foil in this power application just hard wire it to a new connector. There is some good old video from PACE back in the 80s on youtube. Have a go it quite fun if you dont mind getting a bit sticky with epoxy. This is how I used to repair military equipment that could not be replaced.
@TheDefpom23 сағат бұрын
@@allthegearnoidea6752 that is certainly something to consider if doing it for a long term repair.
@bblod4896Күн бұрын
As Alex on Northridgefix would say: Hiroshima!
@TheDefpom22 сағат бұрын
@@bblod4896 I don’t know, I stopped watching his videos a while ago when I got tired of him shilling stuff.
@davidv1289Күн бұрын
Very creative fix, Scott. Amazing how much heat an arc creates. I hope the company appreciates your work - Christmas bonus would be nice! Regards, David
@pileofstuffКүн бұрын
That's an impressive level of damage. Haven't seen something that bad since I was repairing a lightning damaged module.
@TheEmbeddedHobbyistКүн бұрын
it's the capacitor, it's always the capacitor. Shit it's the relay. 🙂
@TheDefpom22 сағат бұрын
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist so close!
@sparkyprojectsКүн бұрын
As a retired electrician, i used to work with PLC's, all the relay outputs only switched a contactor, which then switched the load, things like pumps are inductive aand can pull a lot more current on start up due to inrush, Far better and cheaper to replace a contactor than a PLC, might be worth considering when you replace the PLC
@SeanBZAКүн бұрын
Had the same, though without the flame damage, relay output just went dead. So went and borrowed the programmer, plugged it in and edited the pin assignment for that output to the last spare output on the PLC. could have fixed it as well, but a lot faster to do the 60km trip to get the programmer and return it.
@evilkittyofdoom195Күн бұрын
Saw plenty of damage like that fixing pinball's back in the day ...
@garyhinson3876Күн бұрын
good get out of jail bodge, if you can get an identical unit, you could just swap the top boards over, the program will be held on it, i would never trust those on board relays with anything greater than signal current, and would cascade heavier relays off the outputs
@antec902Күн бұрын
The diodes are double diodes with a common cathode, on the right diode you can see a track running from the third leg to the right relay.
@TheDefpomКүн бұрын
@@antec902 ah good spotting
@IanScottJohnstonКүн бұрын
A pity you never got the password, the ladder logic is editable on the LCD on these things, and they are usually very short programs so could have reversed engineer pretty easily. Haven’t used ladder since the 90’s!
@JonnyFixКүн бұрын
Good stuff! Most logical way to recover this kind of failure in a pinch.
@tomgeorge3726Күн бұрын
Good catch, quite a bit of severe damage, the unused relay was a godsend. I have had similar damaged control PCBs. Usually, after removing the carbonised PCB and wired in the extensions and mods, given the area, both sides, a spray with conformal spray to make sure that there is some integrity in the PCB insulation. Hope it performed to get the compressor up and running till a better alternative can be found. I don't think you will have any luck retrieving the code. A solution would be to find some new/old stock of that model and swap the CPU board over.
@hallpet45Күн бұрын
A password for a password 😉 Why not.Keep the Vids up👍
@Gerard423653Күн бұрын
I have (obviously) not run through the full 5 hours, but jumped / browsed, so maybe I missed it. I was looking forward to finding out how it does all these very precise attenuation steps with just two relays. Must be some very smart circuits in the oscillator and the section behind it.
@kaybhee62 күн бұрын
instead of touching microscopic words on screen... is it possible to click/ drag using mouse via usb
@TheDefpom2 күн бұрын
@@kaybhee6 yes, these are mouse compatible.
@natearrigoni3 күн бұрын
I would love to play with mine but "it's been lost in customs", but their tracking shows it never left their facility. Just made a shipping label in the US with USPS and that's it. A month later and radio silence from them, no updates with the tracking. It never reached customs. I don't know about this company. Seems shady to me.
@TorchHacker3 күн бұрын
FNIRSI now have two new attachments. One does AAA to 18650 cells. Another has pogo probes.
@TheDefpom3 күн бұрын
@@TorchHacker yes I’ve seen that, I show it in the video 😉
@jimwjohnq.public3 күн бұрын
About 4 months ago or so I was at the local Goodwill outlet store and scored a Voxelab Aquilar C2 printer, which is basically an Ender clone for about $10. The only thing wrong was that the hot end was burned out. Replaced that and it worked good. I was going to do the dual z upgrade. Ordered the kit and everything to do it with. Yesterday at the Goodwill outlet store I scored an Ender 3 v2 for $18. The only thing wrong with this was that it was missing 2 of the rubber feet. So now do I upgrade the Ender 3 v2 or the Voxelab, or just order another kit and upgrade both?
@donboknoytambay51884 күн бұрын
it can detect voltage regulator sir..? if its good or bad..?
@stephenadels61864 күн бұрын
When measuring in-circuit, the 300mV test voltage may be very useful, as it in general does not activate most transistors, diodes, etc. If the reading was flashing (moving around, changing frequently) at 600mV, you may find that the reading settles down to just one reading that hopefully is accurate. Would like a short video update for in-circuit testing at 300mV, as you unfortunately did not cover that. Thanks for your work in testing this product. I appreciate it very much.
@FourtySomething4 күн бұрын
The overworked Postal companies are Going Postal again
@GregM4 күн бұрын
In Canada the postal workers are currently on strike. Ordered something on AE 11.11 sale and Canada Post is handling the delivery sigh. Why AE why? Every other delivery for months have been via a cheapass local delivery service.
@davidgeltz76045 күн бұрын
In the HP test gear I like how they keep a separate battery box if the batteries corrode it doesn't mess up the main unit.
@jonathanrix68585 күн бұрын
Just question my quad anytone 6666 my frequency on ssb and lsb if i select the FIN function rx/tx then if select other channel i.always need to use.clarifier some advise as to why the radio is doing that from south africa 73 buddy
@jackmatthews28405 күн бұрын
Hello Sir can you do a review of the test auto range tweezers to reveiw?
@TheDefpom5 күн бұрын
@@jackmatthews2840 I’ve always reviewed a few different brands, and done comparisons.
@ulwur5 күн бұрын
Noo!!! Don't leave those old batteries in there.
@QsTechService15 күн бұрын
It’s definitely fun trying to figure out how to use these older test tool equipment lol
@amirb7155 күн бұрын
the meanwell adapter can be bought from digikey even cheaper than aliexpress
@TheEmbeddedHobbyist5 күн бұрын
A problem with running a switch mode power supply under rated is they chuck out a lot more interference. When tested for CE, UL certification they are loaded almost or to max limit, which means when you run them with a headroom so as to give them an easer time they fail on emissions. How do i know, well every brick PSU I've used on a CE marked product failed without extra ferrites on the output leads and/or mains input. But I do try to get Meanwell psu for home use as they do come over as being well made and long lasting. but i would only buy from the likes of CPC, Farnell or RS etc so you know what your getting.
@NiHaoMike645 күн бұрын
A lot of the Mean Well PSUs I have worked with are quite bad EMI wise, one was so bad it became the reference for a noisy PSU! But at least they're safe and reliable...
@TheEmbeddedHobbyist5 күн бұрын
@@NiHaoMike64 did you run it under full load as it would have improved a bit.
@TheDefpom5 күн бұрын
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist only if it is well under the rating, they do more noise with either near zero load, or over about 75% in the tests I have done.
@TheEmbeddedHobbyist5 күн бұрын
@@TheDefpom To find the best point we need to look at the standard they are tested to. As they will b designed to meet the emissions at that point. All part of the certification process fun. One part will meet it's standard and fail as part of your equipment which it is used at less than full load and tested to a different standard. Passing certification is like playing snakes and ladders you change one thing and you can be back at the start. And what's worse is every roll of the dice costs a lot. 😞
@NiHaoMike645 күн бұрын
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist I used a resistive load board to vary the load in steps from no load to full load. All of the PSUs tested made more noise with increasing load, although some of them did so at lower frequencies at very light load thanks to period skipping, which can be problematic for audio circuits.
@ohmbug105 күн бұрын
If it makes you feel any better (it won't) the US Postal Service, UPS, FedEx, etc. treat our packages the same. -mailman bitched at me because he delivered my package to other people on a different road that has the same last name. -UPS destroyed a $6000 motor drive while on its way to the local facility. Looked like it was ran over by a truck but they said I improperly packaged it and refused the insurance claim.
@jacktheripper67165 күн бұрын
Love how his cat got excited about him doing a repair video on the fluke
@bblod48965 күн бұрын
With all the rack mounted equipment you've acquired, you need a cabinet with rack mounts and a long power strip. 😀
@bblod48965 күн бұрын
The post man/woman must really like you 😂
@TheDefpom5 күн бұрын
@@bblod4896 I buy him a couple of bottles of wine every Christmas 👍
@gardner9595 күн бұрын
You put all new chicken-head knobs on and didn't mention it at all.
@TheDefpom5 күн бұрын
@@gardner959 I did those in part 1.
@therepairshare6736 күн бұрын
Hi, I bought one of these and it stopped working after about three weeks. Similar issue, with the screen fading to white. I took out all the boards and didnt fancy spending the next year trying to work out what was going wrong. When you narrowed down the issue to that one board, I decided to have a look. Turns out my board was different and didn't have the same diode that you found in a reversed position. I checked around and found the little CR1220 3V battery was dead. Replaced it temporarily with a CR2303 (Bios battery) and that got it back to life. Thank you.
@hoobsgroove7 күн бұрын
if you don't want them I buy them off you give me 25. I can't get them from the net do parts suppliers sell them like farnell?
@TheDefpom6 күн бұрын
@@hoobsgroove purchase link is in the video description.
@hoobsgroove6 күн бұрын
@TheDefpom I can't buy off the internet you near the southeast, trying to find a local supplier repair shop I can buy components my guy retired.
@marlasota7 күн бұрын
Very annoying, when you say "UF". It's µF - the letter "µ" is pronounced "micro", so micro F or micro Farads. It has nothing to do with "U"
@TheDefpom7 күн бұрын
@@marlasota it is actually the letter “mU”, which is how that letter should be pronounced. I changed the way I say it years ago now, I have been saying the full micro for several years now.
@marlasota6 күн бұрын
@TheDefpom correct, this of course does not in any way diminish the educational value of your videos. They are a pleasure to watch and thank you for your contribution to the electronics community.
@malcolmmarzo24617 күн бұрын
Upon "updating" my Launch 123E it caused the screen to freeze after appearing to start up normally. Now it is useless. There is no way to reboot it, like a pin hole that even cheap devices have. All I can advise is to avoid updating if you want to keep the basic functionality on this example of lousy design.
@poormanselectronicsbench20217 күн бұрын
I am kind of surprised that you went through the work of adding a transformer inside the unit to drop the voltage. I would have installed a polarized 120VAC plug cord on it, and then, got a larger 240VAC to 120VAC transformer and had it as a dedicated power source for any more 120VAC devices you might encounter. If you got a primary / secondary isolation transformer instead of a cheaper autotransformer, that would also be another level of safety for working on 120VAC units.
@TheDefpom7 күн бұрын
@@poormanselectronicsbench2021 I do have and use other step down transformers. I wanted this to be usable on 240V directly.
@haditwithwork7 күн бұрын
Thanks for showing us what's inside an Apple lightning cable! Very much appreciated!
@DJIDAI267 күн бұрын
Привет снова! Хочу получить свой первый fluke но не могу определить какой выбираю между 117 и 175 вы имели дело с двумя, какой из них вы можете рекомендовать и по чему! У меня уже есть иные измерители включая BM869s но это будет первый fluke! Благодарю!
@TheDefpom7 күн бұрын
The 175 is one of my favourites.
@DJIDAI267 күн бұрын
@ почему?
@bblod48968 күн бұрын
That is a lifetime supply of Loctite.
@RBRetroBunker8 күн бұрын
Nice work and making it better for the future is great :)
8 күн бұрын
I don't like to just tack two wires together without some sort of mechanical joint. My recommendation is to use a non insulated butt splice and use a piece of heat shrink tubing for insulation, that makes a good mechanical and electrical connection.
@TheEmbeddedHobbyist8 күн бұрын
this is why you want a pair of round nose pliers so you can form nice hook joints before soldering then. but you have to remember that laying two wires side by side is the preferred method, as prescribed by the KZbin university advanced soldering course 🙂
@bblod48968 күн бұрын
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist 😮 I must enroll right away. 😀
7 күн бұрын
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist I was an avionics tech in an earlier life and still work on all sorts of radio and audio equipment as a sideline. I learned early on when I was going to school for both avionics and airframe and powerplant to always make a good mechanical joint before soldering.
@TheEmbeddedHobbyist7 күн бұрын
I started making Avionic equipment for jet fighters so a good mechanical joint was important as there were very high levels of vibration inside the equipment. even to the point that we feed the wire through a tight hole in the PCB before soldering in to a hole. so any vibration was filtered through the wire insulation and not in bending the wire strands.
@SeanBZA8 күн бұрын
Fuse 100ma slow blow will last a long time, it will just be better against surviving the initial inrush current.
@TheDefpom8 күн бұрын
@@SeanBZA I will worry about it if the fuse ever blows, it’s not really something going to use more than once every decade or so anyway !
@IanScottJohnston8 күн бұрын
Might be worth adding a label onto the front panel "Do not leave plugged in".
@TheDefpom8 күн бұрын
@@IanScottJohnston yeah I was thinking of doing that
@TheEmbeddedHobbyist8 күн бұрын
or one that says unplug from mains when smoke is detected.