Hello, do you have any experience with the Kenwood kr-9050 I recently acquired a one and the left aux input moves slightly and the output from the left speaker is not right what would be the best plan of action to replace this connection? Thank You.

I can't use the app as my phone only has bluetooth for sound or wifi to share audio. Ok, for any phone with a headphone jack, but that's being phased out.

THAT THINK WITH THE HOOK AND POKER IS FROM WHELLER SALDERING GUN THEY USE TO COME WITH 2 TYPES OF PICKS.❤

Thank you very much, Sir.

@vintageaudioaddict and anyone else who may be able to help! I recently purchased this exact model in mint condition (at least on the outside), and then I had an extremely experienced audio repair guy replace all transistors and capacitors in the machine, as well as cleaning heads and and all volume and buttons. The machine works perfectly on nearly all fronts with the exception of one really annoying issue. Maybe you or someone on here can help track down this issue as i have already have collectively invested $450 on this machine. The issue is this... Regardless if my VU meters are clipping or not, I get a sort of distortion/noise in the low end of my recordings when the highs of a track arent present to mask it. So areas like breaks/drums and bass on songs. I fed the machine a 50 hz sine wave and recorded that to tape and you can definitely tell the noise is there and isnt just your normal tape noise or distortion due to being over driven, specially since the recordings were specifically not being over driven on purpose. The noise seems to go away if the sine wave above 100hz or so. I'm starting to think that the recording head has gone bad... Do you, or anyone else on here, have any idea what this might be? Please let me know. I really want this machine to work correctly since ive already invested a nice chunk of change in to it. Thanks in advance!

OMG, What must I see @ 10:38...This method for the spray can is a lifesaver! When I remember how awful it is to reach into some potis most of the time - and it´s a real pain in the @ss then, this way of sticking various pipes into the original one, with different bendings and spray holes... This is awesome! But I am ashamed too. I am so old now, and being 60, I see an idea I didn´t have in mind myself so often. Normally I am proud of me for being innovative! And I am innovative because I am stingy and lazy! And just this technique here comes just from that: Being stingy with de-oxit fluid, and lazy due to not wanting to dismantle things just for a minimal amount! 😁😁

Do you know the scene from Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas when the guy shouts "Finish... The effin story man... What happened? What about the gland?". That's how I felt trying to watch this.

I've watched quite a few videos about the APL. This was the best. I'm definitely buying one in a month or two. I did build my own VPB around 10 years ago. I used future pinball as I found visual pinball very tricky. I hope eventually to do most of the mods that you have done here.

Great detailed video, Probably the best one yet, a wealth of information. thank you Sir.

Great Video! I know it's been 3 years since you've posted it but still very interesting. I own the MC2105 and even though I've been an audiophile since the late 70's, (and a huge Mac-centered fan since then), I was surprised to find that the MC2505 was the first SS amp by McIntosh. Honestly, I would have guessed the 2105 to have held that distinction. In addition, I was just as surprised to find that the MC2505 was rated by McIntosh at less than half the watts/PC output compared to the MC2105!! My MC2105 is rated at 105W/PC and yet the MC2505 was rated at 50W/PC. Of course, the 'actual' power output of almost any McIntosh amp is at least 15% higher than they rate it for. I did a re-cap of my 2105 and replaced the the entire glass faceplate as well. However, I didn't re-stuff the Can Caps because I just didn't know enough about the procedure. I own many instruments to measure these electronics and have a combination of analog and digital test equipment for capacitors, resistors, etc. The problem is that I'm a "junior hobbyist" at best and simply don't trust myself to do the job without close, expert, guidance. Much of the reading material that I've read over and over, can be open to my own ignorance and misinterpretation. In fact, interpreting what is being said is my biggest problem. Mostly, the material I've read requires that I have an electronics expert close by to explain what some of these things mean. But there's also the type-o's, grammatical errors, and misspellings of the reading material, which makes it even more difficult to understand when combined to my 'misinterpretation difficulties'. If you see what I'm saying, you can probably imagine the potential for just how far off a novice could be thrown when those variables are considered. Having spent many hours over a period of months trying to grasp some of the more complex procedures in the reading material that I've found, it became clear to me that I was burning myself out. Without proper guidance, I realized that I've managed to confuse myself even more than before I started. A simple 'crash-course' in electronics wouldn't cover the areas that I needed to know and would only create more questions. Therefore, unless I was prepared to enroll in a certified college or technical institution, I would have to find a place that was certified to work on these systems. I finished the basic recap of the MC2105 w/o re-stuffing the cans. The two large capacitors were likely replaced before I bought the amp. In fact, I recall that they said they had acquired original McIntosh capacitors from McIntosh itself. I placed them in my analog Cap-tester and they certainly passed 100%. I have the amp setup in my home system and the music sounds great but still, I know that my MC2105 is not performing to its best ability and that bothers me a little. I'll eventually need to address this point. Thanks again for the great video! Rich PS: That Sony pre-amp is fantastic and my search for one came up with only a single preamp availbe to buy. It's in excellent shape and located in Japan. They want about $2500 USD for it...

Hi from mallorca spain Very much enjoy your indepth testing and knowledge on the equipment you test and service. I now have my eye on a LX 5.. this will be added to my linn x3 lk100 with active cards tri-amped and tri-wired to a pair of linn ninkas kestone bases. Reason for this is i have so many tapes from back in the day..will bring back some good old memories.. Fantastic videos ive learned alot. Keep up the great work Anthony

Before you posted this video, did you consider contacting Hifiengine to get his response to your issues?

You don't see the vintage Rotel gear vary often And I don't know think that The vary early Rotel lines Were sold in the USA

Do you have a Web site anf Facebook?

Catching up on a few older ones.. nice amp and nice job. Hope you will still be doing some vids :- )

Try an Onkyo Grand Integra M-510

Very good video. Thank you! one question - where do you connect black lead of multimeter? I only see you use red. Does black go to some central "ground" on the amp?

tool @ 6:50 is a dentist tool. works great for a number of things

I disagree, that Nak hype is long gone! Only Naks I'd own: RX303 and LX 3, the rest of those 💰 pits, you can KEEP!!!

I tried to setup an account about a month ago…no joy. So I purchased(!) an original manual for my 2215B. Also, I recently found a copy of the manual for my Technics SL-Q2 on the interwebs nearly free of charge (only cost me my time).

I have the 1603 what a baest and very dependable with some killer bass

I love your knowledge on vintage stereo's but I have to mention something I seen at position 1628 the screws are Philips but at position 1753 the screw's are replaced with a standard screw. Did you lose the original one's. Just curious. My issue is I have a Pioneer SX1250 had a shop repair it at the price of a grand. No six months later there is no sound coming from the right speakers. I call the repairman he's since sold his home and left with no forwarding address and does not answer his previous phone. So being a non repair person I have been buy little by little some of the basic tools to repair it myself. To say I'm nervous is an under statement. But with no where to go, I seem to have no choice. I play it now just on the left A speaker and the left B speaker. Wish me luck. Or any pointer that might help. I bought it when I was 18 and now I'm 70 so it means a lot to me to have it still working.

excellent instruction .. should have watched this video first .. but still learning... tool prices have really increased on that de-solder gun by Hako .. may have to get it anyway .. and found the Kenwood history to be amazing ... that history lesson, and of course their reputation among Ham Radio operators, speaks volumes as to their importance as a major player in electronics .. much respect for presenting this information and for a great instructional video

Tried logging in to my account, but it won't let me. I've had an account for about 5 years, but haven't logged in for 2 years. I would pay for a membership...

i watched this while go. remind me, do these have option to using 120v usa power? thanks for your awesome vids of

I tried to open an account about 2 months ago and got a message with words to the effect that they weren't taking new members at the moment. Lack of access to the manuals is the reason people can sell them on eBay. So making them unavailable benefits those sellers on eBay.

Although i love all the 1970 vintage equipment, the Marantz line up has always been my favorite. I especially like the fact that you can still get the original lamps to resurrect the original sea blue dash color. The LED blue is ok...but not as appealing as the original color. The 2500 has the original color, and in a low lit room it displays it's powerful esthetic value. Love it.

Na ostatnich testach taki mały amplituner zjadł 30kg 907MR

I have a Sansui 901db(purchased in Japan in 77) that I recapped recently. I drive some Pioneer HPM-100's (200 Watt model)

wonderful video, I learned a lot! does a 100W bulb work on vintage monster receivers too, something with a 560W power supply for example?

Hey from Australia. I used the mode switch reverse if some some VHS tapes had the sound channels recorded the wrong way round. I wired up the input and using RCA male and female connectors to reverse I had a simple way of switching without changing the leads. It was more common than youd think. Cheers from OZ Andrew Collins.

ON THE REV CONTROL: I use it all the time because i have a pair of omnidirectional speakers set on each side of my couch. If I listen to music on an armchair facing my couch I set it on Normal but if i sit on the couch facing out I set it to Rev. because L and R are now reversed.

Chris, can you contact AH- Fixit...He is good for a youger tech, in vintage audio?!

The older Fisher's of the 60's were way better.

Thank you for this. I've acquired a pioneer SA-8100 as a project and wanted to know what I was getting into. Seller plugged it in and showed me it was stuck in protection mode and would need to diagnose to get it going. I have recently acquired a bench multimeter and still need a variac or bulb dimmer to start diagnosing issues. A oscilliscope would be a great gift request for Christmas, thanks for the tips.

Thank you so much for such a thorough video. I learned a lot of basics and what else I need to look into.

Hi-fi engine is now shut down for new users. Is there a second location where we can find these things if we aren't lucky enough to already have an account with hi-fi engine?

nice save

NEVER use a air compressor(That isn't specialized for electronics.) on electronics they can spray oil and water. They may also have a high enough PSI to start blasting things off the board. For electronics I use a specialized blower made by XPower("A-2 Airrow Pro Electric Air Duster") it's under $50, get one for your shop or lab you won't be disappointed.

I wood get these tuners and amps on tradh day dome worked others intrDED TONBIDDYNFOR CB STUFF

got my 635d recording again changed out the 458s...just bought a 255 really nice shape reverse does not work...next job to fix lol

Awesome vid.. I watched half during breakfast and finished after work.. late eve/night LoL ! Love the wrap up and you are correct it's something you can learn if you have basic skills and are willing to get a good solder iron and desolder gun. It's too big a job in my opinion for solder wick...at least for me. What a beauty ! Case may not be super but the face/knobs still looks sweet.

The fellow engraved an ID number (SSN, most likely) as an anti-theft measure. A driver's license was supposedly better. Back in those days, high-end equipment was a favorite target for thieves who would sell it for the cash for their drug fixes. Technics/Panasonic made some legitimate high-end equipment with the expected prices. Technics made such equipment of high price. These are not to be confused with what Technics made for the mass market to meet a price point. Technics made great top=end equipment... for a pretty penny.

Omg what a find , what a story 😮So cool

Had a Zenith Flatscreen TV blow a capacitor. What’s funny is this TV was only 2 years old at best. At any rate when it blew it was loud!!!! About as loud as a 22LR going off.

quite a nice solid amp.. more power than i'd ever need but it's a certainly a looker and a performer. always love your vids / explanations.

aug50x and yes Fäiry dynämmic..? tec quieterr balanced ´beauty$iz€D???

Aha the return of one of the original greats of audio repair. Good to see you back , highlighting that DC offset isn't a measure one time and its done issue ( guilty). Just learning from these videos is a pleasure & important as tech skills becoming impossible to find . Thanks for passing the knowledge

Just wanted to say thanks for all the great videos. Fun to watch plus, I get to learn something.

I like your foresight comments towards the end of the video. Do you have any perspectives on regional climates and their effects on all this old stuff? Automobiles for example, rubber and plastics survive longer in the humid regions, steel and non ferrous metals however fair better in the arid southwest. How do these different climates effect electronics?