If you remove the gauge pods then pull the shifter down to 1 you will most likely have enough room.

Going on 2 years now with zero issues!

I intercepted the flasher signal at the LCM and installed my own LED flasher relay.

You have to move it back kind of evenly or it'll get caught up on the studs it's bolted to.

@@MarauderV8 I was able to do everything but I must have knocked a connector loose or something because now none of my windows work.

@@MarauderV8 ah well turns out of you don't tighten the bolt on that electrical connector your blend door and windows stop working, easy fix.

What? No. Have you even been to one? They don't follow you around and ding you for everything you do.

What if it's my daily driver

The console shifter assembly isn't attached to the dashboard. You may need to remove the tray with the cigarette lighter to swing the dash out, but it might be doable without it. Either way, you don't need to do anything to the center console.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipLQd4VogN98gq8

There are two plugs behind the trim panel for your trunk button. Pull the trim panel off and plug the button into the other pigtail. One works when the car is on and one works all the time.

@@MarauderV8 Thanks, the driver door module stopped working, (2007 Town Car), neither the key fob nor the inside keyed button works - the trunk is inaccessible...

@@MarauderV8 Thanks, is there a video for this?

No it doesn't. I have completely removed the dashboard from my car and reinstalled it alone. Just doing the heater core is even easier because you only swing the dashboard out, so all you do is swing it back.

Did you unbolt the HVAC box from the firewall and pull it away?

I’m not sure I thought I got everything the bottom is prying open but the top is still completely on

How so? I've done this ten times or so now and It's super straightforward.

I addressed that in the video - I didn't have the correct camera equipment that day to show the heater core removal, so I made another video that focuses on it.

I kept magnetic trays on both sides when I did it in my car and dumped them in. All of the 7 mm screws are identical, so it doesn't matter where they go. Everything else is specific to its location, so you can't really mess it up.

@@MarauderV8good to know. Thanks man

I made a video specifically for the heater core and blend door actuator, so check that one out for replacement!

Glad it was helpful!

@@MarauderV8 So my new heater core looks small compared to your Crown Vic. The dimensions are 6" wide by 9" tall and 1 3/4" thick.

Sir. I am having a hard time prying the heater core housing away from firewall. It is coming out just about 45degrees. Almost as if it is binding somewhere. Any suggestions?suggestions?

​@@MarauderV8I think I missed the top screw that holds the heater core housing to the firewall.

The one in the center console has two different connectors - one for when the car is running and one for always hot.

No, lol. They go through the cars before putting them in the field, so I doubt they'd miss that.

I think it's always blown air weakly. The one thing that could be affecting it is your mode door. It's a door inside the HVAC box that directs air between the different vents (floor, dash, defrost) and has a weak plastic hinge. If it breaks or stops swinging all the way, it'll direct air through all of the vents at the same time, making it not blow as strong through any of them.

There are some studs below the air box that are hard to see. Aside from that, you might need to aggressively wiggle it so the floor vent lines back up. I'm not really sure why you cant get it mounted, but unless you broke something you'll be able to get it back in.

@MarauderV8 I'm aware of the two post on the bottom. I couldn't get the black box to move less than an inch. This is really hard to see what's blocking it from mounting back in?

There's a post on top as well. Aside from that, if you can't get it to mount flush to the firewall, the only other thing I can think of is something got wedged between the box and the firewall. The floor vent tube can get in the way of moving the box, so that may have gotten jacked up somehow. You might need to pull the whole dashboard out so you can get in there and see what's blocking it. It's pretty easy to do and if you followed the steps in my video, the only thing you have to do is fully remove the nut holding the left side, disconnect the HVAC vacuum lines, then pull the dash all the way away from the firewall. I hope you get it figured out!

The pans are physically identical except for the threaded hole, so I'm not sure where the mismatch happened.

I don't think a second person matters. You only remove one side of the dashboard, then pivot it, so putting it back is easy. Even moving slowly it should only take a couple hours as it's really not that complex.

@MarauderV8 appreciate the response and information. I'll definitely tackle this sooner than later. Appreciate you