Hi Franky! Thanks for leaving a comment! We're unfortunately on a long hiatus from making videos for the foreseeable future. But I can at least give some information. When it comes to disassembling knives, I recommend always noting which side each bearing came from and always keeping it on that side. I'd always avoid disassembling any knives that have loose ball bearings, getting them back together is too difficult. Of course, it's hard to know for sure until you take it apart. Ideally, you can find a KZbin disassembly video for your specific knife model to see if it has loose bearings. For oiling, I prefer the Quick Release Pen: agrussell.com/knife/Quick-Release-Pen-25-fl-oz--LAT-QROIL03 There are many similar oils, but you do want a high quality oil that's used for small mechanical items. For learning more about knife disassembly, I recommend checking out Nick Shabazz on KZbin. he does a lot of knife disassembly videos that are very informative. www.youtube.com/@NickShabazz Here are the tools he uses: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nKOXiH-vl5aUZ7c&ab_channel=NickShabazz I hope that helps! -Jake

@@AGRussellKnivescompany Jake a big thank you for taking you precious time not onky to answer but giving me hints and references that will check starting tomorow. Once again big thanks and keep on the good work! God Bless! Frank from the deep north👍

$500 is still our minimum international order, unfortunately. We are, for the most part, backing out of international shipping. Thanks for watching!

It depends on how dull the knife is. If you do a pass on each side of the knife every time you use the knife, that will maintain the edge and you won't have to worry about sharpening it. If you are like me and don't keep the rods out to use every time you use the knife, you'll have to do a more thorough sharpening. If you find your knife is catching repeatedly in the same spot on a cut test, there is likely a chip in the edge. You can see the chip with bright light, though a magnifying glass helps to see it as well. I recommend switching back to diamond rods to get the chips out. For small chips, use the diamond rods and focus on that spot until you have smoothed most of it out, then go back to full strokes to line the edge back up. Sometimes the chip is relatively large. It is hard to explain the difference between a large chip and a small chip in words, but often I leave large chips in the blade because I do not want to sharpen the blade all the way down to get rid of the chip. Excessive sharpening will thin your knife over the years. Whether you should remove a large chip depends on how much the chip bothers you, how much it impedes using the knife, and how willing you are to spend the time sharpening the chip out. The bigger the chip the longer it will take to remove. Really big chips benefit from having a more aggressive diamond grit. I hope that helps! -Jake

i believe it was 200,000 cycles of opening and closing

@@AGRussellKnivescompany 😎

Will it match the durability of the Fairbank spider

@@brucebarnes9138 I've not held a Fairbank Spider, so I won't make any claims against it. Our knife is incredibly strong though, as the tests demonstrate.

@@AGRussellKnivescompany sorry about that voice typing fix bladed fighter Applegate in Fairbanks

@@brucebarnes9138 I reckon it would exceed the durability of the Applegate-Fairbairn fixed blade and most variations thereof.

Skeleton tangs allow for lighter weight, better blade balance, and thinner profiles. Many use the knife as is, and others wrap the handle in paracord.

@@AGRussellKnivescompany wouldn't that compromise strength

@@JK-pt3pt Not really. The vast majority of fixed blades have holes cut in the handles for the reasons above, though the handle will typically hide the holes. Cheap knives will cut the tang (the handle part of the knife that is also part of the blade) short. You want the tang to cover at least half the handle, preferably at least 3/4 of the handle. Our own knives always go at least 3/4 of the handle, and usually the full length. Just like a steel i-beam, as long as you have the structural shape right, it will be very strong. If you want to be extra sure your blade is incredibly strong, you can do a Full Integral Blade, which you can read more about in our article here: agrussell.com/knife-articles/integral-knives-the-hidden-strength-within But Full Integral blades are not necessary in most knife applications.

@@AGRussellKnivescompany I m highly obliged for such an enlightening answer. It's my favourite area of research.

They do have a version: agrussell.com/knife/Spyderco-Sharpmaker-Triangle-Sharpener--SPC204MF

I won't lie I was getting worried toward the end of that test haha. -Jake

7" en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fairbairn%E2%80%93Sykes_fighting_knife