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@BartoszBanachewicz 8 күн бұрын
This looks amazing. I'm planning on a PD 250 purchase next month, and it looks like a great starting project. I don't have a milling machine yet, though, but thankfully it seems that the only part requiring one is the piston, everything else can be made with just the lathe itself.
@RoninRonin 8 күн бұрын
Hi Bartosz, thanks for the nice feedback 😀 If you decide to do it, you will be definitely satisfied 👍 (but of course first think twice about everything🤞). After several months of working with this modified tailstock, I can honestly recommend it - it makes work incredibly easier and faster. Pozdrowienia z Wrocławia.
@chaozhou3305 24 күн бұрын
This project is fantastic, I can't wait to try it out. Could you provide the EasyEDA project file? I would like to modify the PCB file to replace the modules I have on hand.
@jean-francoislegris4366 28 күн бұрын
Hi @RoninRonin can you share source code i would like to make some test/modification to make it work with snapmaker artisan.
@RoninRonin 17 күн бұрын
Hi, the original source codes were published by Snapmaker on GitHub, this is the best source - it contains the necessary comments, etc. github.com/Snapmaker/Snapmaker2-Modules I extracted only what I needed from these sources. Unfortunately regarding Artisan - Snapmaker hasn't released the sources yet - so it will be very difficult :(
@isidoromaich7226 28 күн бұрын
I like your proxxon ☺
@who0who Ай бұрын
Great 👍
@mujotagani1049 Ай бұрын
pretty sure you need blue blockers. for your eyes use the orange shades my brotha
@RoninRonin Ай бұрын
Of course, safety first. I use original Laser Safety Goggles OD6+.
@marius87bv Ай бұрын
Do you have anywhere a more detailed instruction? Something for dummies:D
@ThalesAQ Ай бұрын
@RoninRonin Is there a list of the exact parts? Or can i found them in EasyEDA? PCBWay list? Best!
@RoninRonin Ай бұрын
Hi, the link to the BOM file is in the description of the first part of this video. The components are not critical - the values can be similar - see comments in the wiring diagram.
@fabiocapell1804 2 ай бұрын
Fantastic!
@RoninRonin Ай бұрын
Hi Fabio, thanks for the feedback 👍
@DimitrisKoronaios 2 ай бұрын
Can you please make the changes to stl file so we can print it for pd400 too? Seems you have done pretty good job.. I can help with dimensions if you point me what you want to measure. Thanks
@RoninRonin 2 ай бұрын
Hi, Yes, I could modify it - it's no problem for me, but I don't have access to a PD400 lathe. So you would have to send me a drawing with the exact shape and dimensions as well as the positions in which the magnets should be placed (make sure these places are made of steel and not for example, aluminum, etc) It would be best to make a prototype, e.g. from cardboard, to check if everything fits, etc.
@ralfkunkel3180 3 ай бұрын
Hello Roni, I like this video and would like to recreate it. Is it necessary to remove the handwheel to assemble or disassemble the tailstock? (12:38) I know all dimensions can be seen in the video. Is it possible to also get a data set? Best regards and keep it up.
@RoninRonin 3 ай бұрын
Hi Ralf, thanks for the feedback 👍 The rotation of the shaft corresponds to the movement of the lower clamping plate by about 2 mm - if you mount it on the tailstock first, it is necessary to remove the handwheel to be able to install the assembled tailstock. But if you have access to the bottom of the lathe or you have slim and long fingers🖖it is possible to install the lower clamping plate later - it is difficult, but it can be done without removing the handwheel. In the video I showed the simplest way - removing and installing the handwheel takes just a few seconds.
@ralfkunkel3180 3 ай бұрын
@@RoninRonin Thanks for the reply. I understand. However, I am someone who mostly works without a tailstock and only installs it when necessary.
@paullehmor982 3 ай бұрын
Great job! I like how you use just one set screw to lock the whole assembly together. The central position for the piston relative to the bottom plate is also a big advantage. Btw, when I made my video, there was no flat spot on the spindle end for the lever grub screw as it wasn't finished yet. From a usability point of view I can't judge which design is best. Maybe I would lend to Michel's and my version since it allows for quick and easy one-handed unlock/lock manoeuvres when drilling deep holes. All in all, I would strongly recommend anyone to consider your design. It is simpler, uses less material, and does less harm to the tail stock.
@RoninRonin 3 ай бұрын
@paullehmor982 Thank you for your honest and professional opinion. I didn't start from nothing - the basis of my project was what you implemented. Thanks
@aldeen19 3 ай бұрын
Nice and smart idea.. thank you very much for your detailed video.. I have the same lathe and I shall try to implement this useful upgrade.
@RoninRonin 3 ай бұрын
Hi, thanks for the nice feedback 😀 If you decide to do it, you will definitely be satisfied 👍 (but of course first think twice about everything🤞)
@scotts8112 4 ай бұрын
Hi Ronin. Is the EasyEDA file available for this project? Should C2 be 220uF 50V? Thanks!
@scotts8112 4 ай бұрын
Hello Ronin. I have it working, finally!! I am still printing the other components, I hooked it up to the printer and it recognized the module. Thank you much for everything here. I would like to add a couple comments to help anyone who decided to try this project in the future. My first try was with an AT Mega168. I had a couple on hand. Although the code will flash to the 168 successfully, the Snapmaker never recognized it. The video has the stepper driver shown in two different positions, make sure you put it in right before powering the board.
@RoninRonin 4 ай бұрын
Hi, C2 220uF is connected after the DC/DC converter - the voltage here is approximately 5 -5.5 V DC, so this capacitor must be designed for this voltage (or higher). Links to all shared files, diagrams, etc. can be found in the video description.
@RoninRonin 4 ай бұрын
@scotts8112 I'm glad everything works. You're right - in the second part of the video (at 1.43 minutes) when I check whether the PCB fits the housing the stepstick is inserted in the wrong direction. Thanks for noticing that. The correct position is shown in the first part of the video when setting the stepstick current.
@scotts8112 4 ай бұрын
Another thing to note is that the Snapmaker will not recognize the Rotary module with the 3D print head connected.
@RoninRonin 4 ай бұрын
@@scotts8112 yeah, Snapmaker developers decided on this functionality. The rotary module (original or my DIY version) only works with a CNC or Laser head.
@scottbase7159 4 ай бұрын
Perfect fit! Thank you!!
@RoninRonin 4 ай бұрын
I'm glad it's useful for you too.
@davidk7747 4 ай бұрын
Awesome, absolutely ingenious! Top marks to you mate!!!!
@RoninRonin 4 ай бұрын
Hi David, thanks for your nice opinion.
@davidk7747 4 ай бұрын
Is the rotary unit shown in this video stock Snapmaker???? it looks totally different, if it is could yo share a link etc., Thanks! sorry didn't read other comments!
@RoninRonin 4 ай бұрын
Hi, the rotary module is my DIY version with a slightly more powerful motor and a little bigger chuck. It is compatible with the original Snapmaker module. The construction and all components used, etc. are shown in other videos on this channel.
@reevan8 4 ай бұрын
Hi Ronin, wondering if you have code/hex file for DIY air assist to be recognized in Luban like you have for this enclosure and rotary
@RoninRonin 4 ай бұрын
Hi, as far as I know, the air assist module is connected to the heated bed connector. This is a 4-pin connector, (two pins for power, one for PWM control, one for feedback analog temperature measurement). There is no CAN bus communication here - the heated bed connection is detected probably by discovering a change in the analog value. Probably when the controller detects the 20W/40W laser the heated bed connector is set to air control. These are just my guesses - I don't have a 20W/40W laser.
@reevan8 4 ай бұрын
Thanks! makes sense but it is unfortunate, I have the 10W laser and added air assist mod that I found online, but it is annoying that I have to turn it on and off manually, even if I use an independent wifi controller I would still have to turn it off after a laser job is done, so I was hoping maybe we could control it via gcode commands at least if not snapmaker native
@office_electis 4 ай бұрын
Interesting final look - very nice. Regarding purpleheart wood - if you heat it in the oven for 20-30 min at around /250 Fahrenheit (~120 Celsius) it will change color back to purple.
@RoninRonin 4 ай бұрын
Hi, sometimes I actually do it in a similar way with a heat gun - it also works. I haven't tried the oven yet - thanks for your procedure - I will definitely try it 👍 In this case, the box is already varnished and in my opinion the color contrasts nicely - that's what I expected.
@user-rb8ip5nq6i 4 ай бұрын
Bro, you inspired me !
@RoninRonin 4 ай бұрын
I'm glad
@jadewu3823 4 ай бұрын
I like this CNC wood inlay tutorial that is clear and very beginner-friendly!
@RoninRonin 4 ай бұрын
Thanks for your nice opinion
@lenabertrand7777 5 ай бұрын
Can I ask the reason of the spray paint? Is it just to help the engraving show better or is there another science behind it?
@RoninRonin 5 ай бұрын
Hi, the glass is transparent and does not absorb the diode laser beam :( The paint prevents the beam from penetrating - the laser heats the paint which melts into the glass. Similarly for transparent acrylic - a diode laser will not work (but a CO2 laser will).
@dimensionhexa 5 ай бұрын
Hey Ronin, I appreciate what you're doing. I've been searching for a channel like yours for a long time, and I finally found it. I'm curious if you could help me with my idea. I want to use a 40W laser module for my laser engraver. I'm using a Ruida controller, and I was wondering if it would be difficult to integrate these two systems. I just want to be able to turn the 40W laser module on and off from the Snapmaker. Do you have any insights on this?
@RoninRonin 5 ай бұрын
Hi, Sorry for the late answer - unfortunately I have less and less time for my hobby :( Coming back to your question - if I understood correctly - you have a 40W laser (from a third party) and you want to connect it to the Snapmaker 2.0 controller? Or ..... you have a 40W laser module from Snapmaker and you want to connect it to the Ruida controller ... ? I think both options are possible - it's just a matter of time and your determination. I looked at your KZbin channel - do you live in Poland like me?
@dimensionhexa 4 ай бұрын
Tak, Jestem z polski, i mam moduł40 w Snapa 3.0 i chciałem podłączyć go do do innego kontrolera ( w moim laserze co2 używam sterownika RUida RDC6445S ) i ma on pwm , jedynie nie jestem pewien jak podłączyć sam moduł do niego aby ko nie upalić @@RoninRonin
@RoninRonin 4 ай бұрын
Sterowanie mocą w tym module realizowane jest poprzez sygnał PWM ale wszystkie pozostałe funkcje ( sterowanie wentylatorem, pomiar temperatury itp itd za pomocą komunikacji CAN. Wprost ze sterownika RUida tego nie obsłużysz - potrzebny jakiś moduł pośredniczący z obsługą komunikacji CAN. To tak na szybko.
@dimensionhexa 4 ай бұрын
a jakby na sztywno ustawić prędkość wentylatora max aby nie przegrzewał + chłodzenie dyszy z kompresora , i po prostu pwm sterować mocą ? . nie potrzebuje bajerów do grawerowanie na razie chce ciąć sklejkę 10+ diodą , bo w moim laserze który zbudowałem pole robocze jest na tyle duże ze jak z tuby c02 strzelam to mam ogromny spadek mocy ( w skrócie ) wiec do modułu snapa potrzebował bym tylko PWM + 24 v na moduł, hmm tylko wtedy czy temp i wentylator będą jakkolwiek działać @@RoninRonin
@RoninRonin 4 ай бұрын
Tak, prawdopodobnie w ten sposób można to zrobić. Musiałbyś jednak najpierw zrobić kilka testów m.in jaki PWM generuje Snapmaker dla lasera 40 W (np. dla modułu 1.6 W jest to 250 Hz o odwróconej logice) oraz czy na wspomnianym sterowniku możesz taki generować.
@pavlik6 6 ай бұрын
Used it- and works great. Thank you!
@RoninRonin 6 ай бұрын
I'm glad it's useful for you too.
@richardkenney2549 6 ай бұрын
Can I buy this already made an programed
@richardkenney2549 6 ай бұрын
😊
@office_electis 7 ай бұрын
Very cool ⛄ - thanks for sharing the files.👏
@jadewu3823 7 ай бұрын
I like this video because it shows the complete and inspiring making process, as well as the original intention behind its creation: "My little daughter makes a sweet face: 'Daddy, I would like a golden snowman for my Christmas tree.' Well ... here's the creation process." 👍
@user-pj8lw9fi2e 7 ай бұрын
Thank you for your work. I build this DIY module, but to switch the LED-lightening does not function (Port D3 on Arduino always stays at low voltage). If it is possible that you share your code, I can have a look into and try to solve my problem. Thanks again.
@RoninRonin 7 ай бұрын
Hi this is a known issue with newer versions of the Snapmaker firmware. A different mode of handling the M1010 command by the controller, and so on. I wrote about it some time ago in the description of this movi and changed it in the program. Just download the HEX file again and upload it to the microprocessor - it should be OK.
@user-pj8lw9fi2e 7 ай бұрын
@@RoninRonin Thank you very much. The new HEX file works!
@Manu041089 7 ай бұрын
Hello Ronin, great work. I want to try it by myself. Currently I am looking for all parts. Currently I am looking for all parts. what parts do I need to finish the PCB. Capacitor, plug.. Can you please help me find the right parts? Kind Regarts
@RoninRonin 7 ай бұрын
Hello, you have to look at the diagram - it's shared, all component types and designations are there. But if you have problems with something, let me know. Components aren't critical, you can use substitutes with similar parameters.
@Manu041089 7 ай бұрын
@@RoninRonin Thank you very much. Then i try to order all the parts. 😉
@gendronphilippe9184 7 ай бұрын
Good, but how can you magnet your pieces on ALUMINIUM ???
@RoninRonin 7 ай бұрын
Hi, The mounting locations for the magnets have been specially selected to adhere to the steel parts. There is no aluminum in these places. Check it in your lathe - you will be positively surprised.
@harvey7113 8 ай бұрын
Really good work, Ronin. Thank you for this video. After watching several videos on laser engraving glass, I was wondering how to get around the visibility problems. My idea was to do the engraving in two steps with two different coatings to get a kind of two colour engraving. And I made a video about it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZPNhIOVn65pidk :-) Fun fact: we mount the glasses in different orientations. I think I like yours better, but I would be worried about breaking the glass if I clamped it on the open, more fragile side.
@jan.walhof 8 ай бұрын
Hello Ronin, for your information: It was fortunately not the stepper motor nor the gearbox. It was the step-up converter XL6009. The input voltage and the output voltage were both 24V. I bought a new, more solid, converter. It could even generate an output of more than 40V. The board was a bit bigger so it took some tinkering to get it in place, but it works and even better than before, I think. Kind Regards
@RoninRonin 8 ай бұрын
Hello Jan, Sorry for the delay in replying - I've been very busy at my job. But from what I read, you have already found the cause and solved the problem. 👌Congratulations and thanks for the information. Good luck, best regards.
@jan.walhof 9 ай бұрын
Hi Ronin, I myself suspect a problem with the stepper motor. In that case, I read earlier that you used a heavier stepper motor. Can you tell me which that is and where it is for sale? Or could the gearbox be broken? What do you think? Kind Regards
@jan.walhof 9 ай бұрын
Hi Ronin, it's been a while since I contacted you. I had a lot of fun at the rotary until today. Suddenly I can't run a run boundery anymore. B positioning with 1 and 5 degrees is no problem, that works without problems. At the run boundery I hear an abrasive sound and the rotor barely rotates. Do you have an idea what that might be? I have already tightened the screws in the stepper motor, but they were tight. Kind Regards.
@android4cg 9 ай бұрын
Great idea!!!
@christophermccool7305 9 ай бұрын
If I have a spare controller and set of rails there’s nothing preventing me from doing the printing and basic mod without the Z axis and just putting in the 360x360x0 size into lightburn, is there?
@RoninRonin 9 ай бұрын
Hi, If you have a spare controller (snapmaker 2.0) and a set of linear modules, you can of course make a full 3-axis machine and control it directly from the Lightburn software. But honestly - I don't know if controller snapmaker 2.0 will allow the use of a lower number of long 350 modules and the use a 360x360 work size . I think this may be blocked in the snapmaker 2.0 controller firmware.
@christophermccool7305 9 ай бұрын
@@RoninRonin Now I’m just curious how it will go, LOL. Snapmaker in normal modes is working at -10X and Y when priming for a 3D print so the motion is allowable but who knows if it will work :) Someone sold me a set of v1 rails and power supply for $70, I figure the money on a controller is probably worth it in the savings trade-off. I was thinking the H-bot laser and still having spare rails left.
@d.w.i.3716 9 ай бұрын
Can you tell us what is J1-J3 for?
@RoninRonin 9 ай бұрын
Hello, J1-J3 are not used in this project. Well, I use this PCB design for my other projects as well and these connectors provide e.g. the I2C bus and 5V DC power supply, so I can connect additional sensors, etc.
@d.w.i.3716 9 ай бұрын
Is it possible that you combine this one with your other mod for light, enclosure and so on?
@RoninRonin 9 ай бұрын
Hi, the modification you mentioned regarding lights, enclosure and so on is dedicated to connection with the Snapmaker 2.0 controller, e.g. if you made your own enclosure. If you have any free Snapmaker 2.0 modules (e.g. left after replacement), Snapi-GRBL controller will allow you to create an independent machine. I didn't think about combining both of these modifications. Mhmmm, I honestly don't know what you mean - how should it work together, what would control what, etc.?
@mohammedssuliman9117 10 ай бұрын
Can u please include the CPL file . I don't have a software to generate it.
@RoninRonin 10 ай бұрын
Hi, I use the free online PCB Design Tool on the website EasyEda.com Unfortunately, there is no option to generate a CPL file (Component Placement List) , but in the shared files you will find another Pick and Place file - it also contains all component coordinates.
@mohammedssuliman9117 10 ай бұрын
Amazing idea .. but how can we use full fledged marlin
@RoninRonin 10 ай бұрын
Hi, Not in this case. This is just a design for use Snapmaker 2.0 modules with GRBL software such as: mellowpine.com/cnc/best-grbl-software/
@aristonderbaez8076 10 ай бұрын
Hello Ronin, what is the voltage of capacitor c1 of 4.7, is it 35v or 50v?
@RoninRonin 10 ай бұрын
Hi, any of these will be good, it must be more than 24V DC.
@aristonderbaez8076 10 ай бұрын
@@RoninRonin
@aristonderbaez8076 10 ай бұрын
Do you have Facebook to send the video of the piece so you can see what I did wrong?@@RoninRonin
@RoninRonin 10 ай бұрын
Hi, of course: facebook.com/ron.in.16100921
@d.w.i.3716 10 ай бұрын
HI @RoninRonin, is it possible to create some github repo for your code? Your modifications are amazing.
@christophermccool7305 10 ай бұрын
You seem to be the leader in solid mods for the Snapmaker. I’m wondering if you’ve looked at or if the BigTreeTech Ebb36/42 boards would work for developing modules. They look ideal for making better Laser/CNC/3DP modules if firmware can be figured out, but that’s not my talent.
@RoninRonin 10 ай бұрын
Hi, thanks for the nice feedback. I haven't heard about BigTreeTech Ebb36/42 so far - I'll take a closer look at these boards when I have some free time.
@marcodrudi8598 10 ай бұрын
great and cheap idea thanks for sharing
@RoninRonin 10 ай бұрын
Hi , thanks for your nice feedback.
@PureAdvicePT 10 ай бұрын
Hi, great job. What kind of Rotary Module you use? Thanks
@RoninRonin 10 ай бұрын
Hi, thanks for your nice feedback. I use the DIY version of the rotary module - it is compatible with the Snapmaker rotary module. See other videos on this channel - there are two videos showing the design and assembly process of this rotary module.
@rvp5199 11 ай бұрын
Can you share your easy eda file
@rvp5199 11 ай бұрын
Can you share a BOM
@simonemandelli 11 ай бұрын
Dear Ronin this is very interesting project. Could you please share your source code? Thanks
@johnpaavola9021 Жыл бұрын
GREAT Video! I have the Snapmaker 10w laser should I change my speed, dwell or both? Advice is appreciated. the 10w likes to break glass. 😬 Thx!
@harvey7113 8 ай бұрын
I did a similar video with Snapmaker 10W laser and I used the settings: dot filled, 0.1mm, 65% laser power and a dwell time of 5ms.