Huge tip i can offer you. I've been building timber frame house in the UK for 20+ years and the easiest way by far is to build the walls/stud work in 1200mm x whatever hight you want so once you have the (for arguments sake let's say) 1200mm x 2400mm frames built on a bench then put your sheet of Osb on top, pull the frame around to square it up to the osb and nail in place and repeat obviously some frames are going to be different sizes for corners/windows/doors etc but you get the idea no matter how small or big just make sure you square the frame to the square edge of the board. Doing this way makes sure all panels are square and it's so much easier to put together by yourself literally put your soul plate down and then you just but the panels up together, clamp and screw and so on. Whatever the case bloody good job you done there mate.

Great review, I wasnt quite as scientific for my double garage, I have put in ... 16 36w panels! Iv wired them up in 4 gangs of 4, each gang is independently switched to save power, I think with 16 im getting on for 600w of lighting! But it looks great for a workshop, so bright on these dull evenings, im sure I could get a tan in there!

Was planning permission needed for a shop this size?

What and where you get the epoxy floor thanks.

Great work as always. If you can, try fitting somewhere a 19in rack 240v power distribution block. I fitted one to the bench and it is the best output I have. Don't forget plenty of points for chargers etc....

Get rid of the music no need for it

Good to see your doing a great job and it's coming along well, like the ducting for the dust extraction low voltage wires and mains power. The cladding around the window looks good like the idea of the switch panel. Plenty of mains sockets you can never have too many sockets which type of circuit are you installing 2 x radials at 16 or 20 amp or a ring main at 32 amp. I've got a 30 amp ring main powering 19 out lets 13 doubles 2 fuse connection units and 4 single sockets. cant wait to see whats next, as always a great video take care

That awful classical music drowns your commentary. Please remove it otherwise I shall have to consider unsubscribing. Thank you.

The problem is, of course, a workshop is never finished. You'll always find little enhancements and improvements to make.

Although a lot of power tools are now cordless it's very useful to fit 220/240v outlets. If you think you need a single socket,fit a double,if you think you need a double ,fit a 4gang. And fit your outlets every 6ft around the workshop. ( Why 6 feet, well it means you're never more than the tools own power lead from a socket,reducing the need for extension leads.) it costs very little apart from materials to fit things in the construction phase,but it gets very expensive retro fitting things. Fit 2 outlets at every air point too. Fit both power and air outlets under the front of the bench rather than on the wall above the bench, then you don't have power leads and airlines running across your work area and getting in the way

Making good progress on the workshop, looking forward to seeing things being made in it👍 And there isn't much wrong with the touch probe plate, it might look a bit manky but it certainly still gives a very accurate Z tool offset height. Cheers Ian

Please, please, get rid of the background music. Unbearably intrusive and totally unnecessary. Otherwise great!

Why does there have to be a beam over the door?

Fantastic video as usual - really interesting. I look forward to them very much. One small thing though - perhaps lower the background music volume a little or ditch it all together? Sometimes it's a little difficult to hear what you are saying.

On the Syil X4 running an R8 and Tormach TTS what Bellville washers do you recommend we use and also what about the extra length needed for the drawbar after the washers have been added? Do we need to make a new drawbar the with the extra length or are there ones available for sale? Im trying to replicate your design for use with my Syil mill and want it to be dialed in like Sally. thanks

I guess you could make it more accurate by making two ball bearing circle that face each other, like a zipper, leads attached to balls on opposite side of other. it would be tedious to get those balls fairly straight.

Absolutely fantastic building for your workshop ,i cant wait to see you up and running and using your machinery, love it 😊

Brilliant. You can never have too many cupboards!

I'd recommend the LED lights you can get that fit on the hinges - from memory they are around £1 a go....Great stuff as always.

Thats a fantastic job. Im hoping to buikd a golf sim room in my garden. Only trouble is i need 3m height inside and i understand that im only allowed 3m external height or 2.5m with a 4m apex if im 2m away from my boundary fence. Im wondering if i could make the roof trusses as such that j coukd raise the cross beams. Im no carpenter, just a diy youtuber. My build would be an internal 7m x 4m

The amount of tools and skills required, not to mention the amount of money spent on tools...I think it's safe to say you better buy one already made

I used a similar method for my dust extraction: a length of copper braid running the length of the hose. Daisy Tempest uses a similar method, which is where I got the idea. BTW what's that thing that looks like a 1950s SciFi video monitor?

Wow, that is a lovely workshop space… I’m very envious, as mine is a single garage :) By the way, first time I’ve caught one of your vids - really great - liked & subbed 👍

I’m curious what the tool is on the workbench to the left of the sander?

Wow!! I like it, That is a pretty decent L shaped workstation every thing close and compact. Good build project, I think you be fine using pvc pipe and there are so many stories of static build up in the pipe some one will say do this and some one will say do that, it one of those jobs you just got to go on with it, there no right or wrong way. I was thinking about the electrics for this workstation having 4 power tools my be 3 single sockets with one 20 amp DP switch to power all tools and a separated supply for the dust extraction. I'm very impressed with the build and the strength of this workstation I would love this in my workshop. All of the above biscuits I approve, don't use Hob Nobs they crumble.................... As always a great video, can't wait for the next one, Take care

regarding the sparking/fire risk of the PVC pipe... You could ask 10 experts their opinions and get 10 different answers, and all of them will say the other 9 are idiots and completely wrong. It's one of THOSE topics if you know what I mean. Pretty much all of the big woodworking youtubers (Jay Bates, Stumpy Nubs, Jonathan Katz-Moses, etc) all have videos talking about it if you want to dig in but personally I wouldn't worry too much about it.

your workshop videos are an inspiration to me, as I'm currently in the final phase of building out my own. It is a 5mx12m shop that I'm going to be trying to cram basically an entire metal shop, wood shop, and electronics shop into. Thanks for the ideas and keep up the good work! :)

Hi, Good jig for those Euro cabinet hinges, can be a bit tricky to line up. As you said a good thing to have when installing new units and if you only use it every 5 years the thing is you got one. As always a great video catch you soon Take care

Nice workshop, have a 255mm erbaur saw myself, how have you found it?

Sir good morning Just vedio is looking Very good experience your have I like your vedio❤

I had the same thought company I work at was just recently quoted 35k for three machines from renshaw lol insanity

so you went to a website that covers a million and one possible scenarios and then ignored its recommendation on the type and number of panels and purchased something else - Love it 🙂 Lights look good, and provides a nice even flood of illumination. Would have liked to have seen how you wired them in as I'm guessing each one has its own power brick ?

Hi , Great review on LED lighting panels, it's just down to what is the correct light for the workshop. I'm not keen on yellow or soft light I do prefer day light more sharp and bright. In my workshop I still use 5ft florescent lights I have 8 standard 5ft lights and 3, twin 5ft lights over my work benches, these are 65 watt tubs white light. Last week I was given a box of 14 out of a 20 pack 5ft tubes from a shop refurb in Wrexham also three weeks ago I had 11 lengths ( 2.4 m ) of CLS from the same shop. As always a great video, catch you soon Take care

Caribbean music, nice! How to cast this part as next video... Just for comparison?! 😊

Hi David,great workshop you have done a brilliant job well done. I had the same problem regards air bubbles in the floor until my neighbour told me to do smaller areas and then run a heat gun over it which bought all the air to the top and dried brilliant.

Why did you just not remake the part? just wondering.

This ain't click bait ... 🤣

Very nice video. I'm hoping to do a similar project and you show some great tips. Good music as well.

Just wondering why it need this bearing and housing, as the spindle already has good bearings.

I have been working with Arduinos for several years now and also have built my own CNC machine. I agree with dingolovethrob on adding a pullup resistor and a small capacitor across the input pin of the Arduino. Having the large metal plate under the entire bed of the CNC looks to me like a very large antenna for noise pickup. Using shielded wire for all the wires in this hookup would be good except the big bed antenna undoes all that. Perhaps using an optical coupler may help. The bed could be wired with the 24 volt voltage like you have now, but use the crash signal to light the LED in the optical coupler. Connect the output of the coupler to the Arduino input with the circuit dingoloverthrob suggested. The 24 volt circuit on the bed may work better with a capacitor across the LED input of the coupler. Noise is not your friend as you've determined. I hope this might helps.

It’s over complicated just add a limit switch or better yet add a spoil board

My question is why? This is "cool" in theory but why the effort? Have you really crashed all the way through your spoil board? If you are really that concerned about hitting the bed, you could zero on the spoil board instead of your material (work) surface and don't machine into negative space. As far as suggestion to limit the noise you could try an opto-isolator in the line between the bed and the Arduino.

shop lights look great! I may have missed it in the other shop videos (if so, sorry!) but I was curious if you have implemented or have plans for HVAC?

Have you tried a smoothing capacitor on the arduino supply? Assuming it’s on the same 24v supply. The noise could be coming through the supply. If it is on a separate supply connect the grounds together and try that.

Hi. Electronics engineer here:- Your issue is NOISE PICKUP, so it is more to do with the IMPEDANCE of the node (input pin) that is picking up the noise. Your arduino input pin is presently very HIGH impedance as it has a HIGH VALUE resistor pulling the input pin up to 5v. To make the node less susceptible to noise, LOWER the impedance of the node. First suggestion:- disconnect the 24V stuff, just have the arduino input pin with a 220 ohm pullup to the arduino's 5v rail. (1/4 watt resistor). That will be what we call a 'stiff pullup. Noise will find it very hard to get onto that node. If it still false triggers then add a small capacitor (e.g. 100nF) from that pin to ground. The cap acts as an RF filter, a short-circuit to RF noise. Goodluck 😃

Some metals have to be hardened by being dunked into oil.

Oh Deer, soft cheese er...I mean soft metal, well it's the same thing.... Have a good weekend Catch you soon Take care

You should be able to do what you need with just a few components. If you look up a transistor bistable circuit that shouldn’t be to far from what you need. You would have to reset it each time it’s triggered. I like watching your videos it’s nice to see someone doing things properly rather than just bodging things together.

Hi, Yes using a latching relay would work fine and will not be affected by electrical noise. If you need it faster use a reed relay. The workshop is looking fantastic and it has been CAT scanned. Cheers Dave.

All interesting stuff - will look forward to the progress