What about the inside ?

Overkill on the thickness of the materials. I would build that from 10 gauge tube. You are only holding up a car body that certainly does't weigh over #1000. So half of that (#500) on each end. It doesn't take much steel to hold that kind of weight. Steel is sold by the pound so you could have saved about 30% on the steel. Otherwise good looking project. imho.

Bruh come back I wanna see the car. (Seriously though I hope you’re doing ok)

Very helpful video. Can you please add the size of keysert used and drill bit size to redrill and tappin bit? Thank you in advance.

Thank you for such an amazing video explaining the process. I just have one question. Do you or did you spray in some type of rust preventative or paint to the back of the tabs you cut before welding them shut? Or spray in some type of fish oil? Thanks again for such an informative video. Cheers.

do you happen to have a guide for this? i want to build one

id replace the lines if i were you the crimp quality from chase bays lines are shit

out of all videos on how to prep rear fenders for wide body, this is the best well explained video bro

Subscribed!! Great video straight to business clear instructions.Thanks

Hey Tony that's the gear great work mate.

Cómo puedo tener el PDF? Necesito ayuda Gracias

Anybody know if this will work on S14?

Those brackets that hold the fuel lines to the chassis, did you make those or buy them?

god bless, now I gotta just do all of this but underneath my subaru

I thought this was a how to… not I’ve already got stuff cut to size. Wait… you’re selling something!!!’

Great video very thorough. I am thinking of doing this to a junkyard rack I bought to replace my worn one currently in my car. The issue I am having seems to be on both racks but on the shaft or rod (not sure all the terminology) that has threads on both sides for each inner tie rod when they are being tightened or looseneds the rod in the rock itself rotates slightly with it.. maybe about a 1/4" or less. It takes a great deal of force to do this but I am not sure if this can shift more easily when the vehicle is on the ground. Or is this even a big concern? Ultimately I am trying to figure out why the car is unstable at high speeds and seems to have a lot of steering play going over bumpy roads. Feels as if the wheels are kind of wandering a very small amount. Most of the suspension components around the rack are all new such as control arms, swaybar links, shock absorber etc. The rack is probably the only thing unchanged in the front end that has bearings and the sway bar itself.

So, he strips & repaints the outside, whooped-dee-doo: what did he do to “restore” the inside which is where true tank restoration counts? I’m growing more gray hairs waiting . . .

Looks good. I wonder how much a body shop would charge me. Bc I can’t weld for the life of me.

Interesting that as soon as I found your wide guard video's this popped up. Very tidy install mate. I brought the original kit from Chasebays and the fittings do leak/weep. After speaking with Chasebays, it seems that they wont admit fault but do advise the hoses have been redesigned using different fittings. My only option was to buy the new kit minus the reservoir...and then the interest rates hit in Australia and I couldn't afford it anymore. Its a good kit (and no one else offers this kind of kit for an aging chassis) but I wish they would have helped out a bit more with a known issue. Now I have cardboard under my car in the garage and have to check the fluid level before I drive.

Watching this before I remove my headers as one bolt game me trouble last night, hopefully it's not stripped!

Ive just started stripping my 180SX in Australia and this material is amazing. Great to see someone putting in the effort to do it right whilst also teaching others. Very keen on the metal widebody and after a decent trawl, I found your Zilvia link... I know you have UM 1.5" on the front and I read somewhere that you have 2" on the back...for the life of me though I cant find the measurements...all I find is "they are custom to my liking"... If you are still around and see this, could you please pass us the specs? Im sure it would be of great benefit to the Silvia community (and me)!

Ďe ÉCUADOR ..... DE LA MITAD DEL MUNDO

Bueno pero hay unas fallas las medidas todo proyecto de hoy en adelante mas cámaras todo tus trabajo con medidas excelente como profe graciasl

Beautiful work man! Glad to see your build and I can’t wait to see it run. Ditto with the shirt btw 🐓

Nice

Any need for a one way valve since the filter drainback valves are unreliable? I'm building my system now for a 1,000hp Big block chevy.

Круто 🎉

Do you have an Instagram I can follow this build on?

Can you use any Tap thread with Sert?

How much of that rust encapsulator did you use ? Im trying to decided if 16oz or 32oz is enough ?

Superb

Question, what is the tool you used to sand and shape the inside edges ! Looks like a tiny belt sander? That would make life so much easier. Thanks for any reply

Is thay the thermostatic valve that they offer with their kit, or is that something you bought?;

I’m currently about to start building the same one. I made the mistake of getting a quote from Metal Supermarket. It was OUTRAGEOUS…especially since some of the smaller lengths can be ordered from Amazon with minor cutting. Thanks for the video! I’m the type that needs to see an actual completed product. Some of the lengths and decisions had me questioning clearance and operation.

I learned how to fix damaged threads on my 350 small block exhaust manifold by watching this video. Many thanks! 🔧

Nice work!

Dang almost ordered this, going to go with Faction's bracket instead, thanks for posting the video!

I would have bevelled all the edges to be welded but otherwise good job.

Thankyou very much bro👍,,, your tutorial has helped me alot❤ keep it coming brother✌️

This is what I need to do, Cuz My 200sx had a problem where the wires get old and start breaking apart..., im still new in these electrical stuff, might be risky, will you list down the parts for the wire mod? 😢

Looks good why did you stick with the OEM control arms and not go with new lower arms

Very nice work and style of the flares!

Would you build this again after using?

kzbin.infoUgkxKSpBfqECmFN-iDEsdClXRatq-vUgsT_3?si=osInd7IxjqYRCK4L

Do the keyserts need to be as long as the threads on the bolt?

Umm the Car rotisserie at princess auto costs as much as your material to build yours. And im in the same province as you.

Nice

nicely done. will make the job much easier for a noob like me.

Bro tell me where you got all those screws for the front headlight supports?

is that bracket for r33 or z32 cables? also, did that happen with stock shaft?