@@051Jerrett you usually don’t fill them to the top. You just have to try and find the service manual for your transmission model. It will specify how far from the top.

It joins the camshaft on end and to a lever on the fuel pump on the other. As the engine, thus the cam rotates, the pushrod moves the fuel pump lever up and down, drawing fuel from the tank and pumping it to the carburetor. If that rod gets damaged or bent, it will get stuck and no longer pump.

Not a bad way to go. If I am understanding you correctly, I think you simply attached both black wires to the right side of the switch and both white wires to the right side of the switch. I definitely think that would have been the way to go, now that you are saying it…. It seems so obvious 🤣😂 I appreciate the comment and hope it helps someone reading this!

Glad it was of help!!

Can’t access the plug when it’s on the machine. That was the route I was hoping to take but couldn’t.

Pumping doesn’t remove as much of the oil as draining.

I mention the bolt pattern at 1:25 in the video. It’s is 4x4” or 4x100mm bolt pattern. This is apparently very standard for golf carts as well. Although I suspect there could be some outliers.

​@@ThomasRodriguez - Thanks, Thomas. I'm sorry I somehow missed that. When I looked up the specs for golf cart rims they say that 101.6 MM is standard and maybe that's what we have too or close enough. In any event I may just use my own rims and add the 8MM spacer just like you did. With my existing space of 1.3 inches (which looks like a little more than you had in your image) I may have plenty of room. Thank again for your video!

I don’t know to be honest. Where do you want me to measure from? I can try and take a look.

I’m glad this helped! Honestly understanding this better was my main issue with pulling the trigger and I couldn’t find anything to help me. I decided to just get the wheels I was looking at that I thought might give me the best chance and started doing some measurements and ordered some spacers to get me where I need to go. The inside clearance is definitely smaller than it was at stock, but I didn’t want to push the wheels out any further than I needed to as it could affect overall handling and potential stress on the hydros.

The manual for your unit should be able to help, it’s different depending on units I think. In this case there is an adjustment bolt on the back. The brass plate with the brass looking rod is where the adjustment is. The nut in the very back controls the hydro adjustment. But highly encourage looking up the user manual or find another video on KZbin for hydro adjustment, specifically one for the same or similar machine as yours.

@@ThomasRodriguez More than likely he didn't bleed air out of the system.

It’s sold now

How Much did it sell for ? Curious

I appreciate the feedback! Do you have any specific examples of where I was maybe getting to far off track or repetitive? This particular video was sort of shotgunned as a Toro group was asking for it after I did it, rather than me preemptively creating something. As a result, I wasn’t really prepared for it and just shot from the hip. Any time stamps you can give me will help me to understand the stuff to cut out in the future :)

That’s the problem these days, nobody has any patience.

Glad I could help!!

If I recall correctly they were centered, but I can’t say for sure. However that is where the spaces came into play to give them enough offset to get proper clearance.

sorry, I couldnt say. You would have to work with their support folks to resolve that. I am guessing there is a factory reset option and that might be your only course of action. I would look to see if there is a pinhole somewhere, where you can put a pin in and hold a button for like 10 seconds while powered on or see if there is a factory reset in the menu. I was simply trying to showcase a wat to wall mount in a way that looks clean. I don't support these, my wife just needed one for signing kids in and out for her daycare.

Glad it was helpful!

Good to know it works on other motors as well! Appreciate the comment!

Does the engine sound different? I would replace the auger belt if you haven’t for a while. Also, if you haven’t replaced the spark plug, I would do that as well. The plug is a cheap easy fix that is often overlooked. If the engine is in fact slowing I always approach troubleshooting with the thought in mind that you need 3 things… air, spark, fuel. Spark is the easiest to solve or test for. Air and fuel can be a little more complicated. Rebuilding the carb, it’s possible you have an issue with air/fuel mixture which could be fixed by adjusting the fuel mixture screw, but if it sounds like the motor is running well at idle, that’s probably not the issue. In terms of fuel, make sure there is no issue with the fuel filter, or fuel leak somewhere else. Make sure tank is not clogged or anything else. Now the reason why I think belts, sometimes if belts get stretched they are now clearing snow efficiently, so then too much builds up and then it bogs the machine down. For similar reasons, if load is heavy if spark isn’t strong enough it may show itself under heavy load as well. So based on what I know right now I would go after the plug and belt besides they need to be replaced under normal maintenance anyway, they are fairly cheap and fairly easy to do. Feel free to provide more details and anything you try and what the results are. If you want to post a video on your KZbin, make it public and I can go look. Other things to consider: Use Mechanic in a Bottle. I think you can get it at Home Depot. Rather than most conventional cleaners this dissolves it down at its molecular level and evaporates the varnish. Others just loosen it and cause a potential clog elsewhere. I would consider replacing the carb if these other items are failing to improve the issue. I have had some carbs that are more trouble than they are worth to try and rebuild. Sometimes it’s better to spend $25 on Amazon for a cheap replacement. All the replacements I have used worked great.

One or two other things to consider, it could be the governor. When you re-installed the carb, if you put one of the little rods or springs back into the wrong hole, the governor could be off. Lastly but probably unlikely, it could be a valve issue. If it is a valve issue it could simply need to lapped and adjusted. Check out the following video that covers both of these issue a bit: Link to the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYSxZGWgd7eYhckfeature=shared Watch that video the whole way through.

So far so good. I don’t use it a ton, but I only had to fill it the once shortly after the first use or two. At first I was worried the nail gun just wasn’t very good, then I discovered it needed to have air added on occasion. Have used it 5-6 times since (maybe 300-400 nails) and have not had to refill again. I’m sure all the 18v units are like the same in this way, but the only thing I don’t like about it is the weight. If I had to use it all day every day, I would have a popeye forearm 😂 For any average home user it’s great. I still prefer the weight over having a hose attached.

Glad it helped!

Glad it helped! Figure if I can help even one person, it was worth it!

Some fuel pump kits I believe may come with the rod, but I was able to get a new rod for mine from Autozone.

You can get a cheap wireless mouse from a local Walmart or target for $10 or less

Hope it helped!

It’s a coax connection, so that wouldn’t help if you have an HDMI source, which most do.

@@ThomasRodriguez oh ok

I'm not sure I understand the question. The video explains how I got the rod out. Essentially you put a box-end wrench over it and pull while testing at the same time and it will fall out. To get a replacement rod, you can order a fuel pump push rod from Autozone or any other parts place really. Does that answer your question? If not, let me know... I am happy to help, I just need to better understand what you are after.

Any 454 with a mechanical fuel pump.

@@ThomasRodriguez thank you for your response 👍👍

So glad it helped! I was in our panic myself until I finally got a solution that worked! Now I just have to figure out how to get my rear brakes to start bleeding again!

It’s my pleasure 😊

Debated even taking the time to do this, glad it seems to keep helping folks! Now I need to figure out how to get the rear brakes to bleed after replacing the master cylinder. Might make a video on that if I can find a clear way to make proportioning valve move back to the center.