That is a great idea! I think the process of cleaning and rebuilding fuel injectors is an easy and cheap way to make sure your engine will run properly. Thank you for sharing your experience on here.

Life has a way of interfering with my hobbies. Feel free to message me if you have specific questions.

Hi Jordan, what is the number on your computer? It is a combination of letters and numbers on a sticker on the large 60 pin connector, that will dictate which wiring harness pinout is appropriate. Email me directly at phillipsmcsd at Gmail dotcom. I will do what I can to assist.

@@MajorSporto thank you so much! I try to get tomorrow, my truck is carbureted, and has a manual fuel pump. Like I said I’m trying to remove all emissions, and any other not used wires.

@@jordanwoods8166 I will do what I can to assist.

Hi Paul, It was a Mustang 5.0 Upper, and I bought a block off plate after removing the EGR itself, and plugged the vacuum ports. There are two small coolant hoses that run through remaining EGR plate, and I kept them in place, even though they don't cool anything anymore. I have run this setup for a decade with no issues, CEL or codes. Good luck!

@@MajorSporto I was referring to the evr vacuum solenoid on the passenger side valve cover that feeds vacuum to the egr valve . I have a block off plate and the egr resistors for the sensor itself on top of the egr but I am asking but the solenoid on the passenger valve cover needs to remain plugged in electrically and whether or not to use resistors with plugging the vacuum port .

Thanks!

@@MajorSporto How much do the resistors cost? Thanks

@@trailerparkcryptoking5213 Not much really. Less than a buck each. You can get them on Amazon or anywhere online.

Actually quite well! I swapped the halogen low beam bulbs for LEDs that I got on Amazon a few years ago, and I had to change them out at least once since then. Other than that the housings still look great, no yellowing of any kind and the halos still work perfectly. This was a great purchase and upgrade.

@@MajorSporto no condensation?

@@alanly7505 nope, no condensation inside the plastic. They do seem to get scuffed up a bit more easily than OEM lenses, but they're not turning yellow after four years of use.

If you have a harness core that I can start with, then yes I can set it up for you. I don’t have any on hand.

Hello, please email me directly at phillipsmcsd@gmail we can discuss this in more detail. I may have a connector from an old harness that I can send you.

You can buy a dongle

Hello, I don't know if the resistors are different, but I would guess the process of using them this way is similar. I have really only ever worked with the Mustang computers on these conversions.

thank's @@MajorSporto

Hi, thanks for the kind words. I found everything by searching the web. Mostly Mustang Forums, that had discussions about either converting to MAF from SD or to EFI from carb. If you look at the comments of this video and others in my channel, you will see some of the links that I used for source info. Hope this helps. :)

Also, if you cannot find anything, email me at phillipsmcsd at Gmail dotcom. I can send what I have stored.

They allow you to remove the engine section of the harness from the rest of the main harness.

Just like I answered below. I would say that this type of trick with resistors would work the same way as it does on the Mustang 5.0. However, the challenge would be to locate the same wires on your harness. The reference materials that I used in this were for a Mustang computer, that mapped these wires to pins specific to it. Your F250 computer, probably has the same wires (by function), but may be mapped to different pins on your computer. You would need to find the pinout for your computer and locate which wire does what. The wires functions are labeled EVP, Sig Return, and VREF. Locate those on your computer pinout and then do the resistors the same way as shown in the diagrams for the Mustang. Again, this is trial and error here, I don't know if it would work exactly as this does. Good Luck

@@MajorSporto the engine is from a mustang 1989 lx that i want in my f250

It might work on that computer, however you have to match up the three wires in your EGR connector with the one's in the diagram that is online. Google the EGR delete diagram that is on the web for older Mustangs, you will see the three wires and what their purpose is. You need to identify which of those three wires does what, so you can then solder the resistors to them. I am not sure the pin numbers and wire colors are the same from the newer 5.0 Mustangs, so you cannot count on things being exactly the same for your harness.

I would say that this type of trick with resistors would work the same way as it does on the Mustang 5.0. However, the challenge would be to locate the same wires on your harness. The reference materials that I used in this were for a Mustang computer, that mapped these wires to pins specific to it. Your 300 computer, probably has the same wires (by function), but may be mapped to different pins on your computer. You would need to find the pinout for your computer and locate which wire does what. The wires functions are labeled EVP, Sig Return, and VREF. Locate those on your computer pinout and then do the resistors the same way as shown in the diagrams for the Mustang. Again, this is trial and error here, I don't know if it would work exactly as this does. Good Luck!

www.foxstang.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SALT-PEPPER-SHAKER-FOX-MUSTANG.png

Wire colors may vary from year to year, but the diagram in the link below should line up with your white connector. You can trace which wire it is from there. Also note that the oil pressure and water temp sender wires from the engine go through the gauge as well as the HEGO ground wire, which is often Orange in color and has a connector for grounding to an intake bolt. Just some ideas, good luck.

Thanks, will do!

Hi Jason. Yes everything that I had was found online. Mostly Foxbody Mustang Forums if I recall. The wiring diagram that I used is also pretty popular. Here is a link to a thread, that talks about it. The diagram is on post #19. I got the resistors on Amazon for a few bucks a set. There are two different resistors needed to make the triangle shown. Two 3.9K ohm and one 390K ohm. I messed that up a few times in the past when not paying attention to the different types. This way has worked for me in all of the harnesses that I've done. Good luck. stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/those-with-homemade-egr-delete-come-in-here.592407/

Great to hear! I have run this setup for a while without an EGR. I can codes, but no CEL. Which is great because it makes the CEL that much more reliable and meaningful if it should actually illuminate.

Thank you for the reply. Mine are still looking great after two years. If you're going with LED bulbs for the main lights, research a quality set. I installed some cheap ones from Amazon, and they are already failing after less than a year. Just a tip! Good luck with your lights.

These are 86-93 Mustang Fox Body Harnesses. This one was probably from an 88-93 because it had a MAF sensor connector on it. The 94-95's had a similar but different wiring pinout than the Fox Body's had.

@@MajorSporto on a 95 they added the CCRM that controls fuel pump,rad fans and the AC WOT switch. What I see is the main harness that comes from ECU has a32 pin connector the covers almost all the engine functions and a connector the runs to the O2 sensors, low oil sensor and trans sensors. Also the main harness has the MAF plug along with the spout pug and Ignition plug(TFI module) I believe if the strip off everything else that’s all I need besides adding a fuel pump relay. I dont need computer running my fans and I can add the WOT relay when I get around to adding AC. I plan on putting this motor and T5 trans into my 63 falcon. Is there anything else you thing I missed? Thanks for the vidieos!!

@@Chris530-65 most of the engines that I have converted to EFI were originally 289/302 engines that were carbureted and pretty simple. So for the O2 Harness, I would just keep the two sensors left and right, ditch the VSS, Trans and oil Temp sensors. They were not applicable in what I was working with. I remove the emissions circuits, the EGR with the resistors, the WOT for the AC and the canister wire. For the FP I create a new relayed circuit and I make sure to add the impact cutoff switch somewhere for safety purposes. Again, I have only ever done Fox Body ECC-IV computer wire harnesses. I should up my game and mess with a newer system, either from the 94-95 or maybe start working with the late 90's Explorer systems,. I hear they're amazing to work with. Thanks for sharing your experiences. I wish I could be more help.

@@MajorSporto you have been a great help. Couple more question on the egr do I need to have ECU flashed so it thinks there is a egr still there? I heard it will set a check engine light a retard timing killing performance. Also just to double check there is no need for a VSS? Nice I have done a few Subaru swaps into early vw bugs and always needed to add the vss to keep the ECU happy. That was on a 98 Subaru. There harness strip down was very easy a worked first time out. I also had a pin out with explanation of what each pin did and or how to hook it up. Thanks again for the help.

@@Chris530-65 Thanks. I am glad these are helpful, I plan to make better quality videos in the near future, I am thinking about some projects to do them with, stay tuned. There are two ways to "trick" the ECU when you remove the EGR. One is to buy a plug that snaps into the EGR connector, and it contains the necessary resistance to keep the computer happy and not kick on the CEL or alter the way the vehicle runs. These plugs used to be available online, but I have not seen them in a while. The other way is to cut off the EGR connector and to use three resistors, soldered in a specific pattern to the three wires the EGR uses. This will also make the computer think that the EGR is still there. I have a video where I complete this process, it was a hasty video that I created to help someone asking how to do it. I have done it that way many times, and have never seen any issues with the way the engine runs, nor have I gotten any codes or CEL. Regarding the VSS, I removed the connector and wires on all of the harness mods that I have done. It is my understanding that this can be used for the cruise control and/or an aftermarket speedometer should it be installed. I think, some of the new AOD transmissions like this sensor, but the applications that I have done were all stick shifts, and the VSS was not needed. I have never seen an early VW with EFI conversion, that would be interesting.

It should work with any 86-93 Fox Body 5.0 computer.

Hello, I may have some time to redo your harness. I do these on the side in my spare time. I think you can message me through KZbin for contact information and we can discuss in detail if you want.

Yes, there was a plug that you could buy and just plug it into the EGR connector and it would to the exact same things as these resistors. However, when I looked into getting one for my conversion a few years ago, it was no longer available. At least at that time it was. Not sure about these days.

Those are two inch blocks in the front and back. Installed them in my driveway with a floor jack and hand tools. I changed the shocks and springs in the front at the same time, but they were the same height as stock. The hardest part was breaking the bolts on top of the front shocks loose, they were rusted. The rest of was pretty easy. Good luck with your installation/upgrade!

Hi David, take care of the unit you have. They are rare indeed. I have been doing some other upgrades on my Bronco, while still driving it as much as I can. I have not installed this yet. I will get to it eventually, but I want to get some of the other stuff done first. Good luck with your build! Rich

Was not me. Sorry. That image is widely shared across the forums.

@@MajorSporto I figured but wanted to ask

Hey John...Email me at phillipsmcsd at Gmail dotcom. I can give you some advice, I have some wiring diagrams too.

You can try to tap into the Daytime Running Lamp circuit with the red wire from the LED halos. That circuit is activated when the car is started and stays on while it’s running. On my 4Runner that wire is in the same branch as the parking lights and turn signals, so it shouldn’t be too hard to find. Good luck!

@@MajorSporto if plugged in to the turn signals would they always stay on but blink off when I turn the signal?

@@Nicholas-ut1dw If you spliced the red wire from the halos into the power wire for the turn signal, then they would blink on with the turn signal, and stay off when when signal is not on. Assuming you have a Toyota like the one shown in the video.