I just use vole bait from the local farm supply… I think it’s called ProZap…

I built a few of them for my son-in-law, and for other people. My son-in-law is not using them anymore. But the other people are using them still. Minor repairs to the plastic here and there. I used High density polyethylene.

I think you would have to use a little bigger pipe but then you run the risk of other animal’s getting into it. Also I don’t know what you would use for the poison…

Thanks for the kind words! My background is electrical/electronics and IT… Building things has been a part of my life.

The foam and HDPE are from a plastic supply warehouse. Coated with a rubberized coating. Where are you located, maybe I can help you find a supplier.

@@mrkrazyjeep do you know what the rubberized plastic is called?

Absolutely! This is where I bought the controller but they are available stateside now too. proma-elektronika.com I’ve even seen the set on eBay too!

1 1/4 PVC...sch 40

I just did one side and haven’t had any issues. I do manually check for square before I power up the motors.

I’m not sure I understand your question… the electronic controls are electrically isolated from the table and plasma and all shielded cables are grounded on one end only at the electronics box. Hope this helps

Thanks Glen, i was actually planning on ball drives but I had the components for a belt drive so I put the unit together with that and intended on adding ball drives later. However, the belt drive has worked great so I haven’t done that modification yet.

About 12” on either side of the tee but I think I would shorten them to about 6”. You can make it as tall as you want. I used 1-1/2 pvc

Could you be more specific? I don’t understand your question.

@@mrkrazyjeep a small 5v relay connected to arduino I can order stahlwerk cut 70

If your plasma cutter just requires a switch closure to initiate the cut then I would think any relay would work.

@@mrkrazyjeep it's very nice thank you

You can find the adapters in different thicknesses . So i would measure the offset you need and order the adapter accordingly.

Thanks, just got them on Amazon...

Thanks for the positive response! If you send me your email and which files you are needing I can share them. Keep in mind that tolerances maybe different between printers and components. I printed several attempts to get some of the pieces to fit the way I wanted...

It’s hard to tell for sure. Not a 100% but definitely a lot less than years past.

Thanks for watching! It’s been a fun project and the Proma has worked really well with no issues.

I have a 3d printer and I just drew them in CAD and printed them.

Thanks for watching! I actually had the water pan sheared and sides bent at a local metal shop. I welded the corners and welded the drain couplings in. Then I had it powder coated.

Sure, i have put together a pdf file with the list of components and a simplified diagram. If you can share your email I can send it to you. I'm not sure how to attach a pdf to these comments. If you have another way, let me know... I think I figured out how to share it... Try this link... drive.google.com/file/d/1-4ccN4uTUghY-xRUaV0nopVVyM7zy99e/view?usp=sharing thanks

@@mrkrazyjeep that was perfect! thanks!

You’re welcome! Thanks for asking...

I used a 15mm wide belt with a 3mm pitch. Thanks for watching!

Thanks, I appreciate your comments!

Yes, that would be nice... I’m having trouble getting the right color! Our local stores are having trouble getting shipments.

It’s been great, no problems at all. They seem to be really good about providing update versions...

Thanks, anything specific you would like to know?

but I'll sub anyways! I'm new to this machining thing and can use all the help I can get. ;-)

There’s a lot of great instructional information out there! If you’re new to machining I would recommend mrpete222 for sure!

If you’re serious about a light, let me know maybe we can work something out..

@@mrkrazyjeep Yup, ol Pete is one of the best. Check out doubleboost in the UK. He does a little bit of teaching too... And I'm just razzing you about the light. I do need to come up with something, maybe I'll machine a ring. 😉👍🍺.

Sure, I got them from www.MPJA.com...

Thanks for the positive comments!!! I did all the fabrication myself including the welding...

mrkrazyjeep looks great i like it.

Thanks for your interest and nice comments!

Thanks for for the comments! Yes the controller has worked great! I think it was a really good choice. Like you I had trouble finding others using it. A lot of people are using the Proma auto torch height controller and seem to be happy with it after they were able to get it tuned in. I was going to go with one myself but when I found that for only a few dollars more I could get the myplasm set which comes with the auto THC and the controller. I figured it was worth going for . I recommend reading the manuals (available on their website) to get an idea of how everything works. I bought the two package deal just in case I need a spare. I haven’t had any problems. If you have any specific questions let me know... I’m very happy with the controller!

@@mrkrazyjeep I really appreciate your response as information seems to be rare unless you read Polish. Are you referring to the "manual" on the Automation Technology website? What is the two package deal? I'm building this unit entirely from a raw material standpoint with the exception of ball leadscrews, motors, bearings and controls. My Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 58 is only a year old, but does not have an ATC board or connector. The adapter kit is available for around $216, but I like the idea of wiring it as described in the "manual" and as you explained in your video. I also like the idea of the Proma controller being a plasma-dedicated unit as I am a manual machinist and don't have the time to learn a 3-D program that I do not need. I noticed that STV CNC Applications is using the this controller on the SPARX tables they are marketing. I respect your privacy as you do mine, but would be pleased to communicate with you via email if there would be a way to do that. Thanks again.

If you go to the Proma homepage, in the upper left section you’ll see country flags. Select the British flat and the page will switch to English, from there it’s easy to navigate to the manuals. When you get to the manuals make sure to select the ones that end in eng for English. I would be more than glad to communicate directly! If you can’t find the manuals send me you email address and I’ll email the manuals to you...

When I bought mine they some deal that if you bought two you got a little discount. I’m not sure if they are still doing that

@@mrkrazyjeep Wow! The information I was looking for in my native language! Thanks for the help. I will probably find the answer as I dig in, but I notice you have a secondary spring-loaded slide on your Z-axis mechanism. Perhaps you could explain as I note some systems use this design and some don't. I am in the design-build phase of the torch holder right now. You may contact me directly. [email protected] Really appreciate it.

I use Prozap - it’s zinc phosphide pellets - I’m told that it kills the voles however, if another animal eat the dead vole it will not hurt them.

Wrong! From :www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/OR140016-20220225.pdf "RESTRICTED USE PESTICIDE DUE TO HAZARD TO NON-TARGET SPECIES For retail sale to and use only by Certified applicators or persons under their direct supervision and only for those uses covered by the Certified Applicator’s certification." I used a similar product years ago. Mfr. made same claim of safety to non-target animals. My neighbor's cat used to hang out waiting for voles to appear. Soon thereafter, that beautiful, healthy & friendly cat died "mysteriously". Research rodenticides, lethal, non-target animals. Plenty of sad stories. Shame on you for selling this!

They extend about 12” on either side of the Tee and the height is about 16”.

The ones in the video are a little longer but they don’t need to be, I was just dividing up the material evenly.

I used 1-1/2” PVC

I bought the extruded aluminum from openbuild’s parts store.

I don’t have one put together but let me see if I can pull some information together for you.

CNC controller and auto torch height controller: My Plasm by Proma X axis Motors: Nema 23 Stepper Motor 2.83Nm 4A 8-wire 6.35mm Dual Shaft CNC Mill Lathe Drivers: CNC Single Axis 4A TB6600 2/4 Phase Hybrid Stepper Motor Drivers Controller New Power supplies: 24 volt DC power supplies were purchased at an electronics warehouse Y and Z axis Motors: I salvaged the Y and Z axis stepper motors from a video vending machine that I purchased off craig's list. Drivers: TB6560 3A Stepper Motor Driver Single Axis Controller Power supplies: 12VDC 3A 5A 10A 20A 30A 50A Regulated Switching Power Supply for LED Strip Light

That’s interesting, I have been seeing moisture from the first two but not from the third or fourth valve. I don’t mind having a little extra😊

Thanks for your compliment!

Awesome, thanks for the suggestion!

Right, take another look... it’s not a straight grid. Its diagonal offset by two inches. So far it’s been good. Are you referring maybe to a waving setup instead? I can see where that might be better. Thanks for commenting!

@@mrkrazyjeep yes, I mean waving setup should be better . sorry about my English.(I'm learning )

and after see the video again carefully . I see the grid offset.have you had any problem with this type arranged grids?

No worries, I haven’t had any problems yet. I debated a wave design at first but ended up with the diagonal. I could easily change to a wave design. I might try that when these grates need replaced...

Thanks again for commenting!!! I appreciate the feedback!

I’ll bet it really close... if you trace your leads you should be able to figure it out. Remember the material camp is the positive for the torch height controller. I can’t say for sure having only seen the inside my 900. It’s the only machine I have ever opened!

I wouldn’t recommend doing it though unless you have a good understanding of electronic/electrical systems. Electricity can be dangerous if you don’t know how to work with it, just saying...

Awesome! I’m sure yours will be great!

My electronic control box is 100% electrically isolated from the table. All cables for the motors and limit switches are shielded cables and terminated on one end only inside the electronics box. I use a laptop.

I haven’t had any problems with EMI/RFI...

@@mrkrazyjeep thanks I have used shielded cables and grounded the table and still could not find the source emi. I just realized the USB to laptop is not a true ground. I will seperare the control box from the table enough to isolate as you explain. Thanks again

I hope that helps. I can do a quick video on how I did the isolation that if that will help...

@@mrkrazyjeep Yes that would help. If you can point out how you avoided making a ground loop. Also how you grounded the USB from the laptop, obviously it's not inside the control box. A video would be great 😊

Sure thing, thanks for watching

Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate that. I was hoping that the weight of the water in the table will be enough. If not I’ll definitely look into the sand legs! I was also thinking about some solid retractable feet in addition to the locking casters. Thanks again!

Thanks! I appreciate your comments! Hope to have cutting videos soon. I’m going to do the plasma interface video next... then some cutting!