Excellent! I've learned a lot from this video! Thank you both, gentlemen!

So all these years I’ve be taking advice from a beginner, rolls Royce all be it of 10 years.

Thanks for discussing the rationale and considerations affecting project choice.

Never seen an expanding mandrel, seems a very useful piece of kit👍

Mr Crispin. Thanks for your interesting video. In my “ideal” workshop equipment list I have included a surface grinder. It looks more difficult than I had imagined but nevertheless a useful machine once set up. To take out the movement of your machine I see the base has holes through which you could put bolts to fix it firmly to the floor. I can’t see whether your floor is concrete or timber sheet but if concrete would be ideal. Cheers.

I’m suffering from what authors call Writers Block syndrome because I’ve been undergoing cancer treatment and I have chronic pancreatitis,no sympathy PLEASE NOT LOOKING FOR THAT.However have you or your subscribers ever had my problem of not being able to get back at THE LATHE so to speak.I was never away from doing one project to the next,but now I can’t get MOTIVATED WHATSOEVER.I still love the idea and love watching you but IM TOTALLY BLOCKED ANY SUGGESTIONS.

Why would you grind it and not cut it on the lathe, or is that dumb?

How’s the video coming along? 😋

If anyone wants a head start I have 2 chassis and wheel sets for an 0-6-0 pannier tank which my father started. Just looking for a good home.

Hello Crispin, now in August 2024 I’m reviewing this grinding series. An upcoming task requires that I wake up my slumbering Dumore 44 - never used since arriving at my shop - and prepare to OD grind. It’ll need some fiddling to make it fit, but then these are the challenges that keep us amused. Thank you for posting! 👍👍 EDIT - My grinder looks just like yours, in particular it has a separable power cord with no provision for grounding. That suggests it’s quite old. My serial number is B 4133. According to the factory, this means it was made in 1941! 😮

Bow making course is looks like fun class

Hi Mr Crispin. I wonder if I could ask some grinding advice. I’ve a chevalier manual surface grinder and I’ve been following SteveBarton at SolidRock using a Radiac open structure ruby wheel .. which works very well and runs cool without coolant (Radiac RA46-H800-VOS ruby wheel) BUT… impossible to buy. We these wheels in the UK … any advice as to which open structure wheels you may prefer for surface work with only a mist or no coolant. Thanks anyhow Mike … Beverley, E.Yorks

How are you this days MrCrispin?

Clever solution to clamp jaws for grinding.

I watched your presentation with great interest because I have a chuck that needs to be trued and I intended to use your very clever and well thought out method. I anticipated that your method should yield near perfect results so I was very disappointed to see several thousanths of runout in the finished part. My chuck is nearly that good now so I was looking for a method that would give better results. I think that the source of the error can probably be attributed to the clearance in the chuck between the outside diameter of the scroll and the mating bore in the chuck body. When torque is applied to the chuck key it creates the desired torque to rotate the scroll to move the chuck jaws but it also creates an undesirable force pushing the scroll sideways against the chuck body bore. Since it is the scroll that controls the position of the jaws this movement will drive them off center. Perhaps if you had used only one of the drive points to tighten the chuck for grinding and used only the same one to tighten the chuck for checking the runout your results may have been better. I will try that on mine and put tape over the other two drive pinions.

I know I'm late to the party here, but, using your (brilliant!) dolly arrangement would a progressive tightening of the pinions, then grinding help towards the reduction of a "favourite"?

Derwent Valley Light Railway even ? 😉

チャック外径を芯出ししてから、研磨しましょう♪ 機械に取り付けたら、始めにチャックの芯だしです。

An excellent addition to the toolbox.

Long time viewer, I would love to see all the detail and machining, I like your thought processes.

Hi, what is the name of the textbook? Right now I'm very new to this and my teacher refuses to teach any theory and just start of right away in the workshop. Which is very difficult for me

Excited to see you back on the Loco!!!

Those shaft bearing boxes could maybe be tin plated to get a more suitable friction pair.

Nice to see the same solution I distilled from a YT comment somewhere, the only difference being that I have a part laser cut instead of a number of parts to do the internal grinding.

Well explained. I have to do that on my Shenwai 900b lathe. The hook plan was my solution too. Why does the grub screw not interfere with the dowel peg?

Tienes planos del pistón modificado

What a treasure.

Great show Crispy! Do you suppose the variability in the concentricity may be due to side play in the scroll and its recess? It seems that the jaws would move in conjunction with any side play in the scroll. I guess you could measure scroll wear with a dial indicator - within the limits of travel, at least. Do you suppose the spare jaws were an oversize set designed to be fitted to a worn chuck? Thanks!

The power to keep all those machines running must have been massive, the machines - impressive, but 180 points on one dart round...Priceless.

I think it is becoming clear that the idea that there is a project in hand is merely a rather weak excuse to simply play with interesting machines. I have come to realise this about myself and I think it is true of nearly everyone with a few notable exceptions who actually do produce a stream of actual results such as Gerald Wingrove who, I think, did not actually have a garage full of such machinery.

Nice work there, were you worried about the chuck coming loose running in reverse or were the cutting forces not enough to worry about. Cheers for the great educational videos.

Fantastic video!

You sir are missing a slight point that you might check. On your chuck there is a large round point on the face of the chuck. You should always use that point to tighten the chuck. It will make a difference on runout.

nice crosshatch finish on the face....it looks good.

How come the the little guy appentice didn't get to say what he thought?

3 Jaw scroll chucks with hardened jaws are not meant for the level of accuracy your trying to attain. You need to fit soft jaws then bore to the diameter your going to hold.

Brits have been using those since the 40’s . I have books with them being used. Nothing new, still a good idea.

No tailstock support?

😊 An excellent explanation, good visuals.

Hola MrCrispin donde podría encontrar planos de la locomotora Gracias

Very informative, thank you.

Just wondered if you did any head stock alignment before grinding? Does regrinding eliminate any misalignment? Cheers

Mr. Crispin....you wouldn't happen to have a set of plans/prints on that lapping machine that you would be willing to share with a fellow machinists......???

Why do I have a lathe and a milling machine? My answer is that the lathe make parts for the milling and the mill makes parts for the lathe. 🤣 Drives the wife crazy!

Mr Crispin we shook hands a few months back at DRPC1999, I would like to pick you brains about where i could get a square threading die, single point cutting tool (.800 Pitch), i'm chasing someone in the states but was wondering if you knew of someone local - midlands/uk? - David M

That problem with the pull off spring tension is why I use push off for small heads with small screws with my Geometric heads. Just remember that when using 5-C collets that you must have the exact size collet for whatever is going into it. ER collets allow some compression to the next smaller size as the way they’re made allows for parallel shrinking of the inside diameter. But 5-C collets close the inner diameter at an angle if smaller work is put into it, causing some wobble in that work. If you over tension the collet to get that wobble out, or to try to get it tight enough, eventually you will damage the collet and deform it permanently.

Mr. Crispin I have 3 questions for you if you don't mind. 1: Do Rolls Royce machinists actually wear those long sleeve jackets while machining? I can't help but feel like that's unsafe. I drove a needle file through my hand a few years ago deburring a part close to a 3 jaw chuck. I was doing something dumb but I also knew I was doing something dumb. So I was "paying attention". The only problem was I was paying attention to the center of the file that was demurring, not the tip of the file that was right next to the spinning jaws.... I feel like wearing that coat you're ALWAYS doing something dangerous. You might be paying attention to your hands, but are you paying attention to your sleeves? I was taught to never wear long sleeves especially when running a lathe. I'm sure you've seen the "Russian lathe incident". It's only a matter of time before part of your coat catches on something, no? I'm sure you're paying attention 99.9% of the time, but it's the .1% of the time that's important. I was very lucky. My hand is "fine" but every now and then it hurts. Maybe in 30 years it'll hurt more. 2: On a lighter note, any chance you're related to some Leafes in New Hampshire? 3: I live[d] in Uxbridge, MA. Ever been to Uxbridge, UK?

Can you link us the maker of you colin vice stop?

expanding mandrel is an expensive item. how would you suggest doing it without one? 4 jaw chuck and clock the bore square?

Great video Thanks