Question. Do you have any videos showing how to use four different filament colors to build a DnD miniature using those four colors? Not just painting. Great videos. Thank you!

Actually love this!!! Ty

This has made me excited to print again.

Thanks!

One very obvious tip (that doesn't work for all usecases), if a model is too thin / difficult to print, it might work better, if you simply scale it bigger. Works perfectly on stuff you use to decorate your shelves, but less for minis used in games that have rules based on their size. Few tips regarding blender: You can press / key on numpad to toggle normal view and view centered on selected objects & others temporarily hidden. Another way to make selected object easily more thicker in a more "automated" way: 1)With the model selected, select Modifier tab on bottom right of the window. 2)From Add Modifier button, select Generate => Solidify 3)Set Offset to 0, and set Thickness to a positive value. You can keep adjusting to see the result in realtime. You can use the monitor icon at the top of the box to toggle modifier display on/off. 4)From the drop down menu button to right from the monitor button, you can select Apply to actually modify the model. Although it will be automatically applied, if you export the model as stl. Regarding slicer settings, personally I use Cura, which has a "minimum layer time" setting, with "lift head" option. I am sure PrusaSlicer has something like that too. If there's only small area to print, first print speed is slowed. If it still takes longer than minimum layer time, the head is moved off until the minimum time is reached. This can be bad in ways, as plastic will be oozing from the nozzle. BUT together with your tower, it might help (it makes tower print slower when need be) Another easy option is, just print 2 (or more) copies of the same mini. That way there's more to print each layer, and for exactly same height too!

im not a commenter usually but you've inspired me to get my first 3d printer, ive been loving it and learning more every day. thank you.

Fantastic result. Going to have to give a smaller nozzle a try myself now.

Wow. I learned more about printing detailed parts in the first 5 minutes of this video than what I have learned by trial and error in the last 2 months. Thanks a lot

in both situation, with both printing tchnology, you can have issue that "ruins" the final product. Deal with aliasing with resin isn't always that easy.

what about all the "hairs" sticking out -is that just a very find sanding all over? - presumably the painting/priming takes care of very minor blemishes?

I have a resin printer for printing Battletech miniatures. I hate the clean up and prints that fail. I have wanted an FDM printer but told that the lines were too visible and don’t sand well. This looks like a game changer. Have you noticed any lines in your prints? Thank You.

You are literally a godsend. Your videos have are incredibly succint and informative AND entertaining, and I greatly appreciate your work. Thank you so much!!

Awesome tips! Brand new to printing and just bought a printer. Curious for bigger FDM model prints, would it be useful to take a dremel tool or similar sanding/buffing to take out some lines before priming and painting

what about figures which are 10-15cm+ in height? I have several models, Creality K1Max, 0.4 nozzle (already delivering my 0.2), but with those settings the print time of the model like crazy huge Would be awesome to have such video too

Thanks for showing the models uncleaned! It's good to know what to expect. I'm always a little frustrated with the outcomes, but after cleaning they look really nice. The nozzle sizes is a big factor, but not for the reasons newbies might think. I can print almost any miniature in 0.4, it makes very little difference. Where it does make a difference is supports. 0.2 mm supports are so much easier to remove! Its crazy.

I get that these identified miniatures are not suitable for FDM printer at their design miniature scale. But could they be suitable at 500% or greater scale?

So do you have plans to showcase a FDM-printed vehicle model?

I’m getting my boys a Bambu A1 for Christmas I will be pointing them to you channel they love printing and painting miniatures. And your explanations are very clear and concise.

You’re out here doing the Emperors work 🙏 I’m going to try these out in my Bambu A1 when it arrives.

Fantastic Video! - This is exactly what I wanted to see people doing when I tested this on an X1. SO amazing to see it happening. Great result and this will help so many people!

2:05 maximum achievable layer height of any nozzle is usually 80% of the nozzle width 3:44 exceptions: you have ticked off "Slow printing down for better cooling" and changed "Min print speed" to 12 I think

Where can I get the files for those terminators

great!

Great video

This is so very validating to watch...4-ish years ago I'd put a ton of time into pushing just how far my Ender 5 could go, as much to spite the 'FDM is garbage' crowd as because I got it to print terrain and all they wanted to bag on was its ability to do minis. Managed to get it producing 0.04mm layers out of a 0.3mm nozzle [like you experienced, the 0.2 clogged too much and I had my fill of it real fast]. Ended up walking it back a bit after I picked up a resin printer to go with it...the print times just weren't worth it once there was a Saturn on the desk that could do better Z resolutions faster...though now this makes me want to get back to tinkering.

Came here to say "Hi" and "Thank You". Your video helped me to tame Orca Slicer with my Ender 3 v3 KE. For now, I'm using Your settings and the prints are coming out great. Also, Thank You for some of the trick, tips and extra info about some of the settings. I will probably use Your settings as a starting point and then experiment with smaller layer hights. Greetings from Poland :)

helpful!

Nice tutorial mate, thank you.

Can’t place your accent. Where are you from?

Thanks this helpful

good shit

Comment for the YT algorithm..

Try using a scarf seam to get rid of those seams altogether. Not sure if that’s available in orca slicer

8:53 Have you tried one of the 3d infills like gyroid? They give strength in all directions and might let you drop infill even lower.

I’ll have to test this on my Bambu. Thx 👍🏻

Beautiful work! Good tips.

I’ll be trying this with my Bambu P1S with 0.2mm nozzle after the Christmas presents are printed.

Its great to see a good video like this. Came here because I have been printing some miniature stuff for my wife's crafts and I have been very happy with the results on my old E3 S1 Pro so I have gotten in a new .2 nozzle to see I can get even better. I want to see if I can get anywhere close to resin results if I dial it in enough just for the hell of it. You got a new sub.

What is the TLDR of the differences between the different Neptune 4 series printers?

good walkthrough

FDM printing requires primerfiller or sanding to be smooth. Panelns become matte due to uneven surface. This is good enough to give to kids DND but not for my warhammer shelf. Its just not good enough. These are low quality minis that are ok proxies or for testing an army for example. But it is getting better and that is nice to see.

i would have never thought about sinking models into the build plate for better adhesion

Fantastic results, that's exactly what I'm using my FDM printer for and this was a lot of good info.

Any plans for the future to review what a good filament to use for minature printing in order to get the most details?

Nice, was just starting my fdm 2d print journey and my smaller chains and swords didn't survive too well, just applied your settings to my slicer so looking forward to seeing what I get!

great video as usual :) I just want to add my opinion when it comes to speed and quality: I have printed for over 1 year and 100+ minis with my Sovol SV06 with a .4mm nozzle at a speed of about 70mm/s and the quality was pretty good for me a few weeks ago I bought the A1 mini and a .2mm nozzle since then I pushed my Sovol SV06 to 150-200mm/s with the same .4 nozzle and changed to SUNLU PLA META and I can tell you the quality is almost the same like with the A1mini and a .2 nozzle I ran dozens of prints (same figure on both printers) both printers with SUNLU PLA META and I can finally say that either the SOVOL SV06 is already a pretty good printer for minis (and you dont need the A1 mini neither the .2mm nozzle!) or the SUNLU PLA META fillament was the game changer here thats for quality when it comes to speed I print the same miniature with the A1 mini and .2 nozzle in about the same time as the SOVOL with .4 nozzle and the quality is basically the same :)

Great video!! I’m alittle nervous to jump into resin printing but FDM looks fantastic!! Might need to grab one!

You are one of the most clear and practical people in the tutorial videos about FDM. Support until the end! On the other hand, FDMs are now so advanced that especially the new generation (Bamboo, etc.) works wonders even with 0.4mm nozzle.

Thanks for doing this, as supports are something I struggle with in terms of getting them off the models. They always seem too firmly attached and difficult to remove. Any educational videos like this are excellent ideas. Thanks again!

Ok, infill questions; Why not solid for minnies? Does wall thicknesses allow for reducing infill (large solid objects)? Are the infill patterns just for taste or do they have use applications? Thanks for any help Cheers -Alpharious-