yes sir! I have done that many times - you don't actually have to move it much - It already needs a bit over an inch for the lift tube.

I love to meet other enthusiasts! there are a lot of beautiful fish from Cameroon.

so, set up the hatch tank as soon as you spot the eggs - a few weeks before is even better. with bright light and live Phyto\greenwater - the Phyto should feed on the ammonia and keep the levels down so it doesn't become toxic, and your pods and rotifers feed on the phyto. after the first week when the fry are swimming well, add a cycled sponge filter.

Try leaving a carbon bag on the bottom to absorb it and do small water change with a air tube, might take longer but at less it works

yes - it wasnt that high all the time, but on those 107 deg days, the smaller tubs got up there. particularly the 20g glass tanks. I think your larger tubs, sitting on the ground, had a bit more thermal resistance.

@BlueBladeFish my aquariums that are under my porch in full shade got much hotter. They were almost 100. I think the bricks that are in the sun heat up all the bricks and then radiate that heat to the aquariums.

Hope you enjoyed it!

hello! - so yes - I have the 4 large birds nests along the back. the top center coral is a acropora valida. there is a green slimer, a few other acropora, and a few montipora digitata along the top of the left and right rock. the two dense branching on the front left are pocillopora, and under the green monti cap is a stylophora. sadly, all the hard corals perished in the big freeze a few years ago I have restarted, but it has not grown the same - soft corals are dominating this time.

I am happy so far. I do anticipate rotating some species back indoors for summer or winter. For example: right now we hatched a few hundred axolotls out there and they are doing great, but come May/June it will be too hot for them. all the plants are doing great (aquatic and non-aquatic), and Daphnia are thriving. Ill have an update vid out near the end of May to cover success/failures this spring.

@@BlueBladeFish I’ll be looking for it

Hi! It sounds like the screen is working, but linux halted. but honestly, I can't say for sure the best fix or if that is even the issue based on the information I have.

Yes, to clean them I usually do a full (100%) water change at the same time. every few years. i have never had one clog to that extent, but I can see it being possible.

Hi! I have tried several sources. Lately I have been happy with those sold by "SHUNTING" on Amazon.com - search for "Cut-to-Size Foam for Aquarium Fish Tank 19.6"x19.6"x1.57" " - they come compressed and you have to wet them to expand them back to full size, but after that they work well.

Guppies, Axolotls, Killifish, and more!

Hi! i'm not sure i understand the question... are you looking for subtitles?

Hi, the instructions may be a little unclear - but you need to SSH (using putty or another console) to the RPi from you computer - the "get" command (and all following commands) is run in on the Pi, and will download the file when executed. the following commands extract and install/configure it. I hope that helps.

I think it's going to work great! but, i'll post an update in a few months to let you know how it performed over the end of winter into spring.

Thank you! hopefully the potential lives up to my hopes - either way i'll let you know how it goes.

Hello! there are links to the STL file to print your own, and to my store on GetGills to buy pre-made ones in the description.

that should be fine. the length of the uplift tube doesn't seem to matter much for flow. it's more about moving water from the bottom of the tank to the top as an additional way to avoid any stagnation. but for deep tanks, it isn't always practical to put it all the way at the bottom as smaller air pumps may not produce as many bubbles at the bottom - if any at all. There probably is a minimal length where some efficiency is noticeably lost, but i haven't seen it yet - somewhere less than 4 inches.

I haven't found it necessary. the 2" thick open cell foam offers a huge surface area. but, if your situation calls for more, i would suggest just getting thicker foam for the matten filter - say 2.5 or 3 inch.

Hi! I mostly use MS visio and Fritzing

so, for parts that get wear (like screw threads) PETG is sturdier - but those same parts often need tight tolerances which PETG is not great for. for the most part I have been happy with PLA using more walls/high infill.

PLA works fine. the main issue with it can be a bit brittle (both in and out of water). so there is a need to print more walls/Higher infill. But I have not seen any degradation in the water. The only failures I have had were at repeated stress points, usually along the layers.

I have been happy with autodesk fusion 360. though for simple things i sometimes just hack it out in TinkerCAD.

so it can definitely be done. there are some who have an activated carbon infused filament that print filter blocks also. but, all said and done, open cell foam is much better as a porous bio-medium, and its cheap. but I have played with the idea to print rocks/decorations with high porosity. the issue is, it floats.

both PLA and PETG do fine. PLA can be a tad brittle, and the PETG can be harder to print crisp threads.

so far, it seems PLA does (slightly) better under water than in air. which is to say, it is holding up fine, no evidence of decay. however, for integrated screw threads - where the layers are in line with the force of torque I have managed to cause it to fail when ratcheting it down to hard. printing a tad hotter and with more walls seems to have resolved this.

so far, the water doesn't seem to play a significant role. the same prints left in air got a bit more brittle after a year - in water they stayed strong with no sign of deliration. but that said - i have had some break in another tank, where i have a single stand holding up a platform with a pot on it. after a few bumps it eventually breaks off where the threaded rod meets the base. it is just too much torque for a 3 wall print - i have started printing with more walls and that seems to be working - but ill keep testing. but the issue seems to be in the design or implementation, not the material choice (ABS and PETG have had the same fault)

not so much "blowing through the tubes". the fans themselves hum a bit, as fans do. but there is no noticeable resonance or whooshing noise from the tube. if anything the fan was louder before it was bolted to the light.

@@BlueBladeFish I solved it by raising the fans with spacers about a 1/4 inch. Love it. I used 2 12v fans. It was enjoyable to build. Now I will make another one. Learned a lot from you. THANKS

I think the transparency plays a big role in that device, and transparent 3d prints are just not all that feasible. it would best be done by cutting and bending/gluing acrylic. ill put it on the project list :-).

I've never used one of those. We just stick a flashlight on top of the breeding tank night of hatch and siphon the larvae into a big bowl, then into a prepared, darkened tank with breeding tank water in it

I may go that way eventually. at the moment I have not identified a specific rare trait in this line that i am interested in isolating and amplifying. but when they get older, there may be something... if so, ill chose those individuals to keep for future breeding.

hello! well - there could be a lot to say on it - but the short answer is "no" - PLA is safe. Poly-Lactic Acid would make an excellent Bio-Medium if it broke down\degraded under aquarium conditions, but it does not. the pigments might be an issue if it broke down - but again, it does not. it is Biodegradable only in high temperature Bio-reactors. the material is food safe, but it isn't recommended to use (or rather re-use) 3d prints as tableware because of the porosity (bacteria/ you cant really wash it well)

holding up great. underwater there are no issues. in air, i may have seen it get brittle after some time. it may also be just bad layer adhesion - almost always if there is a break it is where the threaded rod meets the body. i have started using more infill/parameters to combat that.

Try 4-6 perimeters in Petg that will be bullet proof. With infill be mindful of bouyancy. I make wet moulding for leather, that go in arbour presses with 6 peri and 40-50% rectilinear infill. They don’t crush or warp so should be good start for your projects.

both the PLA and PETG are holding up equally well under water. no signs of decomposition, and coralline algae coat both.

still a work in progress. spring and summer went well, even in the high heat. but the recent cold snap has caused some changes and die back. I'm suspecting winter will end this phase without a greenhouse or heaters. but i have some ideas to improve for next spring.

Hi - it was a while ago - when LED lights were expensive and less reliable - so i built my own. I have other vids on how i built lights and control them.

Yes sir! nice to meet you also - you have a ton of nice vids ill have to check out - particularly from a fellow DFWMAS member :-)

@@BlueBladeFish Thank you. I'll be at the swap coming up in November. If you remember, stop by and say hello at my table. I'll be the guy with pods, phyto and 3d printed stuff 🙂

thank you!

If i were close i would surely be part of it.

that's a good idea. I'm putting it on the list.

its a great question - not just yet. things were still pretty sparse this winter, and while i was optimistic, i didn't have enough livestock to justify it yet. most of the new tanks did not go up until April - after winter was over. but its on the agenda before next winter.

Glad you enjoyed it!