Thank you Issac- it still works like the day I shot this video 8 years ago :)

Hi Steven- I was lucky to have an uphill area to arc over onto with the pipe. On the hill above the well house I set up an A frame with 12' lumber and fed the pipe through a boat winch pulley (2" wide throat). That kept the pipe in a safe arc. You might consider buying a 20' length and bend it to the breaking point so you know how far not to push it.

Yes, I believe it would, because your lift weight would be about double mine, assuming 3" PVC and a water filled line. I found my boat winch had a lot more lifting capacity than I was using. You should run a calculation on the internal volume of water at 8.5 lbs per gallon plus whatever pipe you have to estimate the load and compare to the lift capacity of your winch. Just watch that the rubber wrap on the pipe is dry and follow the knot technique carefully. Be sure to have a couple helpers- it took me all day by myself to pull 250 ft. running up on the roof and back down again.

Thanks Rick, fair comment. There are removable wood covers on the sides where the filter and also the motor/front are. lifting those out allows a 2 ft open area on both sides down to the base of the spa.

I think the black pipe you are talking about is ABS and looking into it then I was told it stretches too much for well pipe.

hey Daniel glad this was helpful- please let us know how your pull went, and if you found any way to improve it. Stay warm and good luck!

My method is the foot of the ladder chained to the well pipe and top of ladder chained back to tree allowing top of ladder to hang just over center of well pipe. I am using a heavy duty ratchet strap and chain come along lifting the majority of the weight. I ran the 1”pvc up through top of ladder to keep in straight up but also ran the pvc over a branch of a tree to help the pvc from snapping. I’m one person pulling 240’ and couldn’t break the joints apart. With it being really cold I was only able to pull 30’ the first two days. I’m not finished but will post more,

Daniel, I'm about to pull my pump here as well. I didn't have scaffolding so your idea of the ladder is probably how I'm gonna try to do it. I also have a large tree that will help keep the pipe from snapping. Thanks for the info.

@@pamundson9 let me know if I can help more. I was successful

I can email photos as well. Always make sure to keep two points of contact if at all possible. Maybe over kill but rather safe than sorry. With a long chain holding up a come along and a heavy duty ratchet strap via top rung of ladder, I was very efficient in pulling and re setting. I did end up pulling all joints apart and replaced the bad couplers connecting pvc. I used pipe dope to join back together. I also crimped, shrink wrapped, and rubber taped the connections to the well pump.

Hi Anthony- Not any more than would from general exposure to the weather, because in the closed position the cover keeps the steam inside the spa. I recently pulled the deck boards and serviced the chains with grease, first time in 6 years. While everything was working they were stiff and I should have been doing it at least every couple of years.

I made the mistake of installing a 220 V Grundfoss pump that was pumping faster than my water table would backfill, even with the pump 100 ft below the waterline. It would run for 10 minutes and shut itself off. Replaced with a low flow Grundfoss solar pump that works great and keeps the tank topped off.

thanks Steve!

Thanks for the chuckle, hadn't heard that phrase in ages- My dad always said that

Sorry I don't think my videos will break your granite :) Seriously, tho- for $100 bucks of Dexpan and a hammerdrill you can break up a bunch of rock- I trenched 12" wide by 20' long with one box. Which saved me a hella jackhammer work. Just make sure the rock is really dry.

thanks for that Doug- I looked for online for a couple weeks but never searched pipe dog :) americawestdrillingsupply.com/wellpipeclamps.html

Hi Mike- I searched "brick ledge lights" and this came right up- it's been a few years so I'm sure there are better choices: www.c2clights.com/SRD-UR7LED.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIguT0l_CO6QIVKx6tBh0wbQ_bEAQYAiABEgKaKvD_BwE

Hey Oldman Winter. Cehck out our WellHose.com DIY Drop Pipe. You can easily do it yourself.

I'm guessing this dude would have to charge at least 250k to make it worth his time.

well that's why you rag-dry the pipe before wrapping with the rubber and the rope per the video. plus just 1/3 of the 200 ft pull greatly reduces the down weight. At 1/2 up the weight is 50/50. Got a better idea? Please post.

Kevin Murphy I have never worked on that small of a pump. My 1 1/2 hp has a ring on it to attach the rope to.

Hi Keltie- I searched my files but did not find any drawings. I did drawings to layout the cross section detail for the wheels/rails clearance, but from there it was a lot of measuring and adjusting to make it work. If you are into DIY you'll know how iterative building one-off custom projects are. Overall this it the process: A deep hole with your hot tub in it, with removable wood treads so you can service the spa (see where I step down onto wood treads in video). Cement walls on 3 sides (I used cinder blocks coated in cement. Then: 1. 0.124" x 8" steel plate rails topped with 0,375" rod, mounted to 1" spacers to stand off from the cement walls- (see in video) 2. Stainless steel V-groove gate wheels mounted to a steel frame that spans the tracks. 3. A bicycle chain ratchet system to lift/lower the spa cover (see in video) 4. Wood deck and facia boards screwed to the steel frame (I bolted wood to the steel frame so it was easier to screw the deck down). On this project I found the challenges were mostly in the elevations. First getting the hole deep enough (5' below grade) for the tub, plus a french drain under so the hole would not fill with rainwater. if you consider the top edge of the tub at grade, you dig down past your tub height, then backfill with gravel to level it out. Then above grade you plan the rolling deck with the ratchet system to move the spa cover up and down. A steel frame gives you the stiffness to support the deck and leave space for the cover to lift a few inches when rolling. If I did it over I would base the deck on a 12" height rather than the 10" in the video. I could've used a couple more inches for the movement of the cover inside. Also the rails have to be super parallel so the bearing wheels track smooth. I just used cement bolts to attach the rails to the cement walls. Hope that helps!