i got no primer lever on my yanmar gm20 so your idea will come in real handy and thanks for the other parts desciptions i was wondering what they was lol , edit : got the engine running with your help kzbin.info/www/bejne/sJjMgHmllrelbc0si=91X3MubincWS2dTX

Thanks for this video :)

Like this method the best for simplicity. All 2GM owners will have this on hand. Using your vacuum extraction pump: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYqulYevn7yZsMU&ab_channel=GunnarKjemphol

Thank you, you’re a time saver.

Thanks for the tip. While single handling I lost the engine. Change the filters but could not get it to bleed (lift pump didn’t do crap) sailed back to the marina, adapted your tip, worked like a champion. Thank you

fwiw, today I dug in on bleeding my fuel line and tried using the starter (with decompression) to do the trick. I couldn't get this method to successfully push enough fuel to bleed the primary fuel filter unless I was willing to crank the starter for way longer than I'm comfortable with. so I installed a squeeze bulb between the fuel tank and the primary fuel filter (and water separator). wow! it worked great with quick, clear bleeding at every bleed screw. i deal with possible degradation of the bulb by changing it out every two years. again, thanks for your video.

Thanks, man. Presently dealing with the same situation - bad fuel, air in lines, etc.

Im not sure why your first filter doesnt have the priming pump built into it? My diesel vehicles and my yanmar 2qm20 all have a priming pump. You can buy the top housing cheap as chips new with the pump, mine fits toyota diesel fuel filters which cost 10% of the cost of the "marine" filters.

That lever definitely works you probably didn't press it down enough... smh

Thank you, you saved our hides.

Noted your priming pump is fitted to Out from filter (see arrows) and In goes to engine. Right? So your filter is working in reverse?

Nice

you dont need that at all, just decompress the cylinders and crank the engine, those old 2gm20's usually have a hand crank as well...

the fuel lines on my boat from the tank are all small diameter rigid copper to the first fuel filter, otherwise i definitely would do this

That lever on the pump works just fine...BUT you have to make sure the cam lobe isn't high. The top 90% of the stroke on that lever is nothing, the last 10% is the actual pumping action. If that heavier part of the stroke is not there, open the decompression and roll the engine using the belts until the cam lobe allows for this part of the pump stroke...it ain't "shit" if you are doing it right.

If you crack the banjo bolts on the injectors you will want to replace the crush copper washers or you've just introduced another place for an air leak.

I’m getting a a freedom hard on! Is there anything $20 and hose clamps can’t accomplish I mean as well if duct tape of course.

I put a primer bulb on my Yanmar it started leaking after a month put air in the line. I ran a couple bottles diesel Purge directly through the engine. It's purring like a kitten now. When diesel sits for a while bacteria and algae grow in it it can gel. To prevent this I set up a recirculating pump system. Also added enzyme additive. The recirculating pump goes through the recore through the pump and through a second water separator then back to the tank these Yanmar diesel engines are happiest when they get run

Whatever you do don't install one of these primer bulbs. The engine can be bled easily without it. It's a typical blow boater's concept of attempting to fix things by over-complicating them.

Good tip. My boat has a little electric 12v pump next to the primary filter. It works with the key in on position, then has a flip switch to pump the fuel through as you loosen all the bleed screws you pointed out. The manual pump you have is great, but just watch for deterioration over time and replace every 2 years or so.

your engine is a Yanmar 2GM? what is the barb size to connect to the fuel line?

In my experience, you can pump fuel and bleed the system up tp the bleed screw on the injector pump using a bulb, but you won't be able to pump fuel THROUGH the injector pump to the injectors without motoring the engine with the starter. That's why the decompression levers are there... to allow the engine to turn over easily during this final phase of the bleeding process. That said, the engine might actually start after just bleeding up to the injection pump, and, also, the Yanmar manual itself is misleading regarding this final phase of the bleeding process.

My 2gm20f goes through a Racor primary fuel filter which has a priming lever. I don't trust those priming bulbs.

Awesome video man. Your advice got me moving again while I'm sailing south from Ohio to the Bahamas. I'm far from home and this simple trick got me on my way. Thanks again

Thanks for this video. I'm retired, very new to sailing and shopping for my first boat. One of my top choices, at present, has a 2GM. I definitely "don't know what I'm doing", after I buy a boat but eager to learn. If the priming bulbs are prone to degrade, perhaps I should be a section of copper tube 'inline' that can easily be 'swapped out' for a priming bulb...

I have one of these priming bulbs, installed by a previous owner. It split, causing a leak. I replaced it, but now check it regularly. they may not be compatible with diesel fuel.

The in-line hand pumps are handy to get things started, but are notorious for breaking down and clogging up the system if you leave them in place. I'd pinch off the fuel line (not to loose prime back towards the tank) and remove it. Then re-prime from the fuel pump using the lever and the bleed screw.