SailorPunk - Bleeding air from fuel, Yanmar 2GM

I did a lot of research on how to this both online and in the service manuals. It didn't really help. If you have any other suggestions to add to the description let me know.

[@farnorth7314]

That lever on the pump works just fine...BUT you have to make sure the cam lobe isn't high. The top 90% of the stroke on that lever is nothing, the last 10% is the actual pumping action. If that heavier part of the stroke is not there, open the decompression and roll the engine using the belts until the cam lobe allows for this part of the pump stroke...it ain't "shit" if you are doing it right.

[@aphrodite3216]

My friend just had to sail into a busy harbour because they ran out of gas.. this little tid bit about the lever is the only reason I got their engine running...thanks!

[@WranglerShorts]

Awesome video man. Your advice got me moving again while I'm sailing south from Ohio to the Bahamas. I'm far from home and this simple trick got me on my way. Thanks again

[@captozzyscorner7265]

Thanks for the tip. While single handling I lost the engine. Change the filters but could not get it to bleed (lift pump didn’t do crap) sailed back to the marina, adapted your tip, worked like a champion. Thank you

[@vinegar_joe]

fwiw, today I dug in on bleeding my fuel line and tried using the starter (with decompression) to do the trick. I couldn't get this method to successfully push enough fuel to bleed the primary fuel filter unless I was willing to crank the starter for way longer than I'm comfortable with. so I installed a squeeze bulb between the fuel tank and the primary fuel filter (and water separator). wow! it worked great with quick, clear bleeding at every bleed screw. i deal with possible degradation of the bulb by changing it out every two years. again, thanks for your video.

[@vinegar_joe]

Thanks, man. Presently dealing with the same situation - bad fuel, air in lines, etc.

[@donjvalley]

Thanks for this video. I'm retired, very new to sailing and shopping for my first boat. One of my top choices, at present, has a 2GM. I definitely "don't know what I'm doing", after I buy a boat but eager to learn. If the priming bulbs are prone to degrade, perhaps I should be a section of copper tube 'inline' that can easily be 'swapped out' for a priming bulb...

[@rlif9991]

Always have a spare priming bulb

[@snakeplisken4278]

Good tip. My boat has a little electric 12v pump next to the primary filter. It works with the key in on position, then has a flip switch to pump the fuel through as you loosen all the bleed screws you pointed out. The manual pump you have is great, but just watch for deterioration over time and replace every 2 years or so.

[@Ceviche956]

Snake Plisken hey. So your electric pump only for bleeding? And it should not run all the time? i notice mine had that

[@tropicrec]

I put a primer bulb on my Yanmar it started leaking after a month put air in the line. I ran a couple bottles diesel Purge directly through the engine. It's purring like a kitten now. When diesel sits for a while bacteria and algae grow in it it can gel. To prevent this I set up a recirculating pump system. Also added enzyme additive. The recirculating pump goes through the recore through the pump and through a second water separator then back to the tank these Yanmar diesel engines are happiest when they get run

[@josephfriday2661]

Thank you, you’re a time saver.

[@hodadyou]

Thank you, you saved our hides.

[@bjornlindberg4859]

Thanks for this video :)

[@ricksaneejit]

In my experience, you can pump fuel and bleed the system up tp the bleed screw on the injector pump using a bulb, but you won't be able to pump fuel THROUGH the injector pump to the injectors without motoring the engine with the starter. That's why the decompression levers are there... to allow the engine to turn over easily during this final phase of the bleeding process. That said, the engine might actually start after just bleeding up to the injection pump, and, also, the Yanmar manual itself is misleading regarding this final phase of the bleeding process.

[@vicpinto1970]

If you crack the banjo bolts on the injectors you will want to replace the crush copper washers or you've just introduced another place for an air leak.

[@tomwatters2530]

I have one of these priming bulbs, installed by a previous owner. It split, causing a leak. I replaced it, but now check it regularly. they may not be compatible with diesel fuel.

[@Ingeanous]

The in-line hand pumps are handy to get things started, but are notorious for breaking down and clogging up the system if you leave them in place. I'd pinch off the fuel line (not to loose prime back towards the tank) and remove it. Then re-prime from the fuel pump using the lever and the bleed screw.

[@sailorpunk6462]

Cool thanks for the heads up. Do they just clog the engine or does the hand pump just get clogged? Should I just use vice grips to pinch the line or will that damage it? Maybe I could put a valve in prior to the pump for quick removal. That's probably not worth the trouble though. Hopefully this doesn't become a common occurrence.

[@pgc4147]

your engine is a Yanmar 2GM? what is the barb size to connect to the fuel line?

[@ken2633]

Noted your priming pump is fitted to Out from filter (see arrows) and In goes to engine. Right? So your filter is working in reverse?

[@gatecrasher1970]

i got no primer lever on my yanmar gm20 so your idea will come in real handy and thanks for the other parts desciptions i was wondering what they was lol , edit : got the engine running with your help kzbin.info/www/bejne/sJjMgHmllrelbc0si=91X3MubincWS2dTX

[@sailinggreenpearl2571]

Im not sure why your first filter doesnt have the priming pump built into it? My diesel vehicles and my yanmar 2qm20 all have a priming pump. You can buy the top housing cheap as chips new with the pump, mine fits toyota diesel fuel filters which cost 10% of the cost of the "marine" filters.

[@vicpinto1970]

My 2gm20f goes through a Racor primary fuel filter which has a priming lever. I don't trust those priming bulbs.

[@superformOG]

you dont need that at all, just decompress the cylinders and crank the engine, those old 2gm20's usually have a hand crank as well...

[@SebastianBergeNorge]

I second this. The hand crank will do the work. I got a 3GM30. Did this last week.

[@wysiwyg2006]

the fuel lines on my boat from the tank are all small diameter rigid copper to the first fuel filter, otherwise i definitely would do this

[@stanprocter1]

I’m getting a a freedom hard on! Is there anything $20 and hose clamps can’t accomplish I mean as well if duct tape of course.

[@s.v.gadder1443]

That lever definitely works you probably didn't press it down enough... smh

[@jdoe265]

Whatever you do don't install one of these primer bulbs. The engine can be bled easily without it. It's a typical blow boater's concept of attempting to fix things by over-complicating them.

[@mangore623]

Given that the motor is a 2GM, with a very poorly designed primer pump that is prone to fail; a bleed screw on the engine filter that is prone to stripping; and bulbs that do not degrade (being rated for diesel fuel), do not degrade at rate greater than the existing fuel lines; I’d say that you are not speaking from experience. In other words, for the Yanmar 2GM, this is the quickest way to bleed the lines. With the bulb, you only have to bleed the injectors.

[@jdoe265]

@@mangore623 Just crank the engine dodo.