New subscriber here! From PH🇵🇭

Here before the glow up! Awesome videos 🌊🙌

That's a lot of hardwork right there ❤ !! Forever supporter

Awesome video really enjoyed it

What RO system did you get? Can we get a set-up tutorial?

Hello Chris, I am a long time hobbyist, I agree with you on the fact that there is much information that has been lost. William T. Innes is the man that I believe is the father of our hobby, starting with his book published in the 1930s. We need to keep these people in our history. Many of the new recommendations are as old as the dirted tank. Keep up what you are doing , the hobby needs to have young people enter it and expand its reach and knowledge base.

Remove floaters and betta from the tank. Add 2 or 3 Siamese algae-eaters and do not feed them for 3, 4 days. Remove them, transfer to other thank. 30ml of peroxide per 100l of water, leave it for 20 minutes and change 30% water. Add floaters and betta. From that point 20 minutes before waterchange (30%would be the best) add 20ml of peroxide per 100l of water and there will be no GHA. Siamese AE are the best GHA eaters but will eat roots od the floaters.

Thanks for the tour, you have some great setups, and very successful fish room. You certainly know what you're doing. I humbly offer the following advice. Imo, That green hair algae in the betta tank, is feeding and thriving off the natural decay of the driftwood itself. Usually happens, after the slime buildup on it, then progresses and algae takes hold and thrives on it. Ive heard to prevent it, its good to have snails or otto cats to keep the wood clean, (pre algae) preventing the algae from starting on it. Getting critters that eat the algae may not solve the issue at this point. And may actually cause it to further thrive, adapting to the grazing, by taking deeper root and multiplying further. Since yours hair algae is already present. One possible solution may be to remove, and clean the entire piece of driftwood. Then adding the cleaner crew that keeps the drifwood clean preventing the algae in the first place. Or, try leaving it, and use a syringe with hydrogen peroxide to attack the algae. Be careful though, and dont take my word for it as Ive never personally attempted this. Then add the wood cleaners. Research the peroxide method and decide for yourself. The moss in the shrimp tank, I've seen happen in tanks that dont have enough flow. But adding flow would be a preventative measure. At this point, try doing a small overhaul and physically removing it. Not sure what else would help. Best of Luck 🤞🤞

The tanks look really good.

2 Fish rooms. The things I’d do for just 1!

I love your videos!! I need to get brave and make videos for my channel

i just found you nice content.for hidra u can ad a micro predator it helps maybe a small beta or gourami or something small

Drip line for the water changes

Check out Pond Guru and his Pimp My Filter series. He talks about actually completing the cycle with both aerobic bacteria (ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate) and anaerobic bacteria which removes the nitrates. The anaerobic bacteria require a large amount of biological media to develop and they are harder to maintain. He talks about how to setup a canister filter in order to achieve both types of bacteria and he also discusses the size of aquarium and fish load you can maintain and achieve a fully cycled tank with both bacteria types. He also discusses the plants and the role they play. The video he did on the Fluval FX6 and the more recent ones on the Biomaster Thermo and Sicce Whale 500 all cover the nitrogen cycle and how to achieve it to include aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. He also discusses how we continue to use water conditioners that neutralize ammonia and nitrites after we have a cycled tank with aerobic bacteria, and how that actually kills off anaerobic bacteria which prevents us from growing the anaerobic bacteria that we need to convert the nitrates and have a tank that is fully cycled. He suggests switching to a conditioner that only removes chlorine, chloramine and heavy metals after our tank has cycled with aerobic bacteria and it is converting ammonia and nitrites. That allows the tank to then continue cycling and develop the anaerobic bacteria which converts the nitrates. The Pondguru started by building ponds and has transferred that knowledge to aquariums. I found him a good while ago when I was trying to get my filtration right on a 50 gallon way overstocked guppy tank. I actually use a huge filter on the tank and my parameters are 0 for ammonia and nitrites and the nitrates were staying at around 40 to 60 ppm with water changes every 2 to 3 weeks. This tank is heavily planted with hygrophila angustifolia, a huge java fern, several types of crypts and several types of Buce, about 5 large dwarf water lilies both red and green and dwarf water lettuce. When I started playing with over filtering, I bought the Fluval FX6 and set it up as directed although I did use Matrix as my biological media. Once this filter was established, I had parameters with 0 ammonia and nitrites, but I still had nitrates around 40 to 60 ppm and had to do frequent water changes every 2 to 3 weeks to deal with the nitrates and phosphates, and to keep my TDS in a good range. That was when I started researching and found the Pondguru and I redid my FX6 as he suggested and packed it with biological media (I used Matrix and de*Nitrate, the de*Nitrate is supposed to be better suited for anaerobic bacteria growth). I also stopped using Prime and switched to Kordon Novaqua which only removes chlorine, chloramine and heavy metals as the Pondguru suggested. Gradually over about 4 to 6 months my nitrate level has dropped and it is usually 0 to .5 ppm now. I still do water changes to keep my TDS at a decent level, but less frequently because I am not having to reduce nitrates. This is a lot just to allow me to keep my huge guppy colony, but they are descendants of a group of 6 to 8 guppies I bought decades ago. When my population got big, I tried my LFS to see if they wanted them and they did, but to sell as feeder fish, and I just couldn’t do that. So, my search for a way to keep a heavily overstocked tank began. Something else I have discovered besides how to setup a canister and size it correctly for the fish load was that guppies will stop producing when their population hits a certain point. My colony has gone through many cycles where they get down to a small group of about 20 to 30, then they start producing again until they grow to a huge group. At that point they stop or slow down reproducing and the colony shrinks. I have seen my colony go through this cycle many times now. I have heard neocaridina also do this. It makes sense as they have limits on the size of the body of water they are in in the wild, and they have to have a mechanism to limit their growth to survive. Sorry about the length, but I thought you might be interested. Knowing how to filter to maximize your fish load helps when you have limitations on the number of tanks you can keep or in my case you have a soft heart toward a group of fish you are keeping. My guppy tank is a favorite with visitors, as it is teeming with fish, and they are all healthy and lively. I have now setup the Sicce Whale 500 and 300 using the same suggestions on two more of my tanks.

For the algo❤

Nice 🐟’s and tanks 👍🏼‼️

@19:00 Have you checked your phosphate lvl?

I had nothing but Cyanobacteria problems with my Pea Puffers too😢

@3:05 I'm confused now. Don't plants use minerals in hard water? Doesn't water soften over time in a deep substrate, heavily planted tank? I've even seen reference to topping off with tapwater to replenish said minerals. What are your thoughts?? Hard water in Midwest

Beautiful fish and nice setups 👍

First time coming across your content, I love it, new subscriber locked in. Look forward to seeing the next video. I think your channel will explode in subscriber numbers for sure. Your presentation and passion for the hobby is very clear and makes for an extremely engaging video. Best of luck from AUS 🇦🇺 with a Mexican partner as well ahahah and I did the same thing with the Northern Platy Fish now ended up with far too many.

The algae is prime breeding material for shrimp. Also perfect for fry and breeding fish.

Nice

Amazing Setups bro … deserved a sub ❤

👍🏻👍🏻

This might seem really dumb but are they sure the corys arent just eating the eggs? They love eating their own eggs.

Strange , my shrimp thrive in my hard well water here in se Texas. Lots of minerals and iron. Hope you can get that worked out. I also have green hydra in my shrimp tank, no planaria will also kill off the snails.

I have 2 colonies of L134s that I am growing out to hopefully breed. My oldest group are getting close to adult age. The L134s, once they get comfortable in the tank, are super social. Mine are out a lot with the Venezuelan Blacks that they share a tank with, and they hang out outside their caves and don’t hide when I come up to the tank. I have some Florida Flagfish in their tank to take care of some algae and one of my big Golden Marble Angels in the tank too. The L134s don’t rasp much, but they do like hanging out on rocks and wood. This Pleco is an omnivore, and mine prefer the same things I feed my Cory’s. Their favorite is Omega One Catfish Pellets and Xtreme Bottom Wafers. Plecos don’t eat wood, but they rasp on it for the biofilm. My second colony are babies, and the babies are much shyer than the older ones. All my L134s like a lot of plant cover and nooks and crannies to explore. Mine are in my plant heavy tanks with some rocks and Spiderwood setup like roots. I added caves in amongst the Spiderwood roots and my males have staked out their caves in my tank with the older L134s. The younger colony is still exploring and hiding in various places. Good luck with your L134s. They are stunning fish and super personable.

Great job, great room and video, appreciate you sharing

Nice tanks mate but pls put the betta in a bigger tank. That tank is to small even for a betta it's really don't looks happy.

nice tanks, new sub :)

Sorry to hear about the hillstream loach breeding project. Once your RO unit comes in do you think you'll give them another go? Would love to follow that process if you do

Looking good! i also have algae on some of my tanks where i dont have Platys, my platies eat a lot of algae.

For all of that hair algae, get some cherry barbs, people are finding out barbs eat hair algae, or get atleast 6 in one tank and see if they help at all, awesome video! Would like a day in the fish room video

can you do a video on keeping blackworms?

Cool channel, man! Definitely subbing and looking forward to more!

I had 6 wild leopard frogs for 2 1/2 years. They were just getting to breading size. My tank broke when I was sleeping and I lost them all.

Loved it, im planning on starting my breeding fish room soon so the more inspiration i get from others the better!

Great video, I'm glad I came across your channel

Add more Cory the more the merrier lol breed Super White plecos so I can afford them lol it’s work but it’s worth it

Good video bro, cool to see other small fish KZbinrs getting going, keep crushing it

My bronze Cories breed readily for me in my community tank just with a heavy protein feeding and a nice cool water change. I have other fish with them so maybe that’s what you’re missing

The. Bloodworms can cause bloating, maybe stop them for a while.

Thanks for sharing your fish room. I do recommend reading up a little more on Swordtails, Molly's, and Platie it is definitely a possibility to cross either to a swordtail and is in part how swordtails became as colorful as they are.just a tip in case you don't want to risk muddying up future lines. Pursuing and stabilizing a new line can be fun as well, with some patience 😊

I haven't seen a blackworm culture in a breeder box like that before, a brief video on that setup would be cool if it's productive enough to feed regularly from. With your corys try adding some frogbit cover as well as dither fish. My panda corys breed pretty regularly, if you don't like hunting eggs in frogbit roots salvinia might help as cover while encouraging eggs in the spawning mop. Others mentioned a powerhead but putting an airstone under the floating mop would make it more tempting as well, some corys very selectively lay eggs around water flow.

I use to have a heated fishroom and I had lots of ant problems, also nice setup.

Hi there Mate. Great video. I've have bread several types of Cory's and the one thing I think u are missing is a power head increased water flow also I suggest putting the mop directly in the flow of water! Anyway good luck im sure you will achieve it. N merry new year to you and all!

I enjoyed the video. It's nice to see what works for other breeders. Regarding the Corydoras breeding, here are a few thoughts: I'm currently breeding 4 species and two of them seem to pretty much require a drop in barometric pressure to trigger spawning -- basically, they mostly spawn when it rains, which means winter and spring for me. Also, you might consider trying to some dither fish. I know that isn't usually mentioned with Corydoras, but they seem more relaxed with fish actively swimming above them. Last, some species really need some time (several months at least) to get big enough to be mature.

Big Inspiration bro, love the vids❤

This helped me understand what cycling is, when it totally mystified me before! I'm getting ready to put together my first tank. This was perfect, thank you!