If heat is a non factor, ceramic still has a lower friction co-efficient and creates a more durable lubricant film than traditional oils and/or Teflon.

Our Ceramic particulate is size is 0.15 microns, for reference the micron rating for the Purolator Boss Synthetic Media Filter is 21 microns. So the ceramic particulate is 0.7% the size of the filters minimum filtration ability, meaning there is no issue. We rate our product for a minimum of 1 micron filter media.

@@aetsystemsinc.1413 thank you for the answer.

Hello, great question. The exact ppm of Boron nitride in our products is proprietary, however, we can confirm that unlike nearly all other "ceramic" additive companies we DO NOT use any moly or zinc in our micro ceramic products. We use only We use a high VI PAO as the delivery oil, technical specs are below: High Class Micro-Ceramic Oil Result Unit of Measure Kinetic Viscosity (40O C) 279.3 mm2/s Kinetic Viscosity (100OC) 28.12 mm2/s Viscosity Index 134 Oxide Ash .10 %(m/m) Sulfur Ash .12 %(m/m) Pour Point -36 O Celsius Density 903.9 kg/m3 If you email us directly at [email protected] we will be able to provide you with more technical data on our ceramic products.

I really appreciate u getting back to me. It's great to know about the Moly and zince. Both r good additives, especially zddp (I've personally had Moly leave a sticky black film inside a Nissan vq40 engine) but the oil I'm using in a non-cat vehicle already is at 1600 ppm zddp. I can always add my own zddp but what I definitely wanted was the Boron only. In your opinion, is there enough in one container for a 5 quart capacity or would u go higher (like 2 bottles)? I am also going to experiment w this on a lubricity tester. U didn't mention calcium.... Is that in there too? The only reason I ask is because calcium is very polar and competes w zddp and anything else that is trying to form a sacrificial layer. And I'm already at the limit of what I would like to have in the engine. So just pao no esters, as the base? And how is boron 'oxide' different in terms of real-world effectiveness. Many ceramic companies use oxide instead and it is impressive how polar it is and clings to metal. But I thought the nitride was superior. Sorry for all the questions but I am sincerely interested in these things and your product. And where does' silk-road' differ or fit into the equation? Thanks so much... I know I'm all over the place w questions.

@@lancejanowsky7957 One small (250ml) container of our ceramic additive is enough for 5 quarts of engine oil. There is a very low level of calcium component that is in our product as a carrier to help the ceramic coat evenly without "patching". Yes the base is only PAO. We choose to use nitrides because oxides are more likely to react and can lead to the formation of certain acids. "Silk Road" is a product we provide to the Korean Market, it is identical to our US products line.

Hey, thanks so much for answering me. I know things are proprietary but I'm trying to find out as much as I can. It's sounds like it's basically boron nitride, pao, and relatively low calcium. I am sincerely interested in the product but I can't put it in without having a general idea of what it is. And in this case, the boron is what I was after. I did a voa on ceratec and it definitely has its strong points too. Roughly 4600ppm Moly (I assume modtc instead of m0s2... But that's my guess), 800-ish zddp, 2400ppm boron, and 1500-ish calcium. Actually is a pretty robust anti-friction/wear package with the calcium u mentioned to help carry and raise base # a little. They claim boron nitride but the msds says oxide. But I know nitride is synthesized from boron tri-oxide so I'm not totally sure... Maybe thats just how they list it. And I don't mean to highlight a competitor but I do feel that's a pretty good blend of things. But I'm really excited about your product and am gonna give it a try. I've been an auto tech most of my life and I have a lot of customers who trust my judgement. So I can possibly suggest this to them as well after I am the Guinea pig😂. But I want to b able to b honest when they ask me what's in it. Sorry for the long message but I really appreciate u taking the time to get back to me. Have a great day /night!

@@lancejanowsky7957 We understand your position, if you message us directly through email we can provide more information then we post publicly. Email us directly at info(AT)advancedenginetech.com

Great question. It is approved for motorcycle wet clutches, but not automotive automatic transmissions

Hey, great question! This is a very common belief, but you might be surprised to learn it is also a little bit of a misconception! The pressure of the rod/spring is quite low compared to what most greases are rated. For example--at most most the rod/spring will apply 50lbs of pressure to the grease to try and force it out of the grease gun, by comparison a grease like our MoS2 is rated for a minimum of 1760lbs of pressure/inch. So the the pressure shouldn't be causing the grease to separate. Most likely the grease is separating due to lower quality standards during the blending process. Once separated, the rod/spring will force the oil around the seal on the rod which will then in turn leak out of the bottom. So, yes, releasing the pressure can help prevent leaks, but more than likely the grease is still separating.

Thanks so much for answering my questions. A very interesting explanation indeed. I didn't realize this and may have to check the specs on my grease and/or just switch to your grease. However, as you summarized the grease (carrier) and oils and additives (within the carrier) will still 'tend' to separate IF the spring is not released each time a greasing task is finished. Although, as I mentioned, I now have Lube Shuttle grease guns - both manual hand operated and electric versions.@@aetsystemsinc.1413

Good day, this is the perfect product for you. store.advancedenginetech.com/collections/greasing-kits/products/lube-shuttle%c2%ae-homeowner-greasing-kit The grease gun is a no mess lube shuttle grease gun, pistol grip and the grease is AirTec G200EP which is rated to exceed the specifications for lawn/compact tractors.

Open ended wrench I’m guessing?