I have a backlog of videos I am about to be uploading including the reassembly of the C10's engine. Stay tuned!

Glad you were able to get it with the straw. Definitely not the best design on Ford's part.

That is what it is on but it is not exclusive to it. You can find whichever one you need (GM, FORD, ETC) by doing a google search or through the big names like Jegs or Summit.

275/60R20

This specific one is a 2.25" and part number is 11385

like in the ball joint I mean

No I did not need to replace any of the factory hardware outside of what was provided in the kit.

@@BarnBuiltFabrications Thanks

It did. You can use anything that will fit inside of the rubber hose to push the shaft out with such as a small screwdriver or something of the like.

I would consult your manual to get the most accurate information. You will have some on the back of the block by the bell housing though which will require that trans or engine be pulled to access.

Good catch! Went back and reviewed my disassembly of it and the spring was on the cap end.

Personally any change in ride would be in your head for something so minute of a change like this. My grandfather is 80 and about 5'6" and has no issue. He does have running boards that help. I don't think your wife would have much of an issue. Went with these mainly for cost. The spacer is only under compression and not any tension or shear so there is no concern for part failure with running these.

@@BarnBuiltFabrications Thanks I ordered mine and hope to get to it this weekend- and use your video as a guide- Thanks again. Great to hear about your Grandad-

This is a great idea that I will be sure to use in the future. Thank you!

This is a 5.8 351M but regardless yeah certainly not loving that gunk in there.

More to come soon!

Thank you!

Glad you liked it!

Most mufflers look very similar and truthfully they are in most ways. Muffling and sound comes from the internal baffles and dampening material used.

From what I have read, you do not need a ground, it grounds through the bolts, but it is still suggested to ground it to the engine block.

As @cafcintheusa2 said, grounding is done through the block so no additional grounding is necessary.

I salute you brother, good luck! Bring some patience with you and try not to light the truck on fire in the process, albeit tempting at times.

On top is not a bad idea. I was trying to go as similarly as per the instructions when I did it. Luckily this truck shouldn't see too many dirt roads and I see upgraded tubular trailing arms in the future.

I am glad you found the video helpful! The kit I used was from Amazon. I will attach the link in the description.

I will have to give that a shot. Thank you for the tip!

I'd pull the distributor and confirm that that shaft is seated fully. Getting the hex of the shaft and the proper gear of the distributor can be tedious sometimes so a method that helps is bumping the starter which should help suck the distributor down that last 1/8". Just make sure your timing gear is set right because bumping the starter will bring you off TDC. Best of luck!

​@BarnBuiltFabrications in the past I gave just put a socket on the crank bolt and moved it back and forth slightly. it's a little less aggressive than the starter trick

@@smokineaglesrodshop I tried turning it over by hand while pushing down on the distributor. Did two full rotations and still have that 1/8". Also tried turning the oil pump drive shaft by hand multiple times. -,-

This is where I got it on Amazon a.co/d/c3K6iXk

I agree. I have put them through a ton of abuse over the years and they've been nothing but great.

I got these from AutoZone

Thanks, this would probably sound pretty good on it.

Glad it helped you out!

Unless I am not understanding it sounds like you need to tighten your Ubolts after you reset your driveshaft and axle. hopefully nothing got bent or tweaked what shifted.

@@BarnBuiltFabrications I had a mechanic come and fix it thank you for commenting back this is the only video that actually helped me

Good Catch. Yes upon removing the old bushing part of the hole in the loader arm had some wear. In my case that isn't enough to really make much of a difference if any. In the event that the arm is really worn you would need to have it line honed or in more serious cases cut off and have a new end welded back on. More reason to do preventative maintenance and replace wear items as they come up as opposed to letting them grow into bigger problems. Grease is a lot cheaper than steel!

@@BarnBuiltFabricationsall you gotta do is slap a weld in there prior to putting the bushings in and if you gotta grind it down to fit that’s perfect tight fit id like to see a video on how to do the loader arms pins on 239

CAT #159-5756 for the bushings and 142-8791 Pin A 142-8793 for the other pin. I used a kit from Rubber Tracks of America rubbertracksamerica.com/products/one-bucket-tilt-cylinder-pin-bushing-kit-fits-cat-259b3-free-shipping?list_generator=link_to_storefront&context=order_management&user_id=488408908

Good Idea. I have seen that done before with plug inserts on cylinder heads when they are still on the engine.

Glad you enjoyed it

Most likely. As long as they're not coming apart you should be golden.

I am not sure where exactly I got it from as I’ve had it for awhile but any auto parts, hardware, or harbor freight should have something that should be small enough to work. It takes some finesse as the magnet will try to stick to the block as you drop it down in the hole. Just be patient and try to re-earth your old operation game skills. If that doesn’t work you can also try using a straw or something similar that fits snugly around the shaft to try to get it that way but don’t push it or it might drop into the pan. Best of luck, you’ll get it just don’t give up!

I got them from here justubes.com/products/two-new-27x10-00-12-atv-tubes-tr6-metal-valve-stem-27-10-12. There is a discount code that is still active "20OFF".

There is no rap music in this video only rock but to each their own. Thanks for taking the time to comment!

This truck does not have one installed. Personally, unless you are planning on keeping it for originality purposes I would toss it.

Sounds like you've got a few issues going on there.

Happy to hear you got some helpful info from it!

That is not something that I do.

That's the name of the game. Hoping to make a tasteful lowered longbed and not do the chop myself. Sounds like a sweet build man thanks for sharing!

@@BarnBuiltFabrications yessir! I saw a long bed today at the car show and it looks really good when its low.

Thank you I appreciate your support and kind words!

What brand and model is the paint sprayer you used

Just a cheap sprayer from harbor freight.

That's definitely true and in many cases its good enough and better to keep them on the road than sitting and collecting duct waiting on "perfection". I too am learning and going out of my comfort zone as I go and try new things I haven't done before. Keep me posted on your progress as you go as well as any tips or tricks you learn!

Best way to learn is by jumping in and doing it!

@@BarnBuiltFabrications and screwing it up nice and good like lol. I do that well.