You can first read from I2C to see which address the chip responds to, so you work out the color of the chip, then you can reprogram accordingly, saving user the work to change code.

Thank you for making this video very helpful and informative. Ill let you know if it fixes mine.

This video is about zapping mosquitoes, not about batteries. Can you upload the correct link, please?

pfft this aint kittenblock

THE FUEL RAIL AND INJECTORS COULD HAVE STAY IN PLACE.. PLUS YOU CAN SIMPLY PRY UP ON THE ROCKERS WITH AN ADJUSTABLE WRENCH TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE PUSH RODS WITHOUT LOOSENING THE ROCKERS.. ""MAJOR TIME SAVER.""

Thank you. The putty knife tip/trick is exactly what I was looking for and having a hard time with.

Just FYI with Toyotas and Lexus vehicles you don't turn on the heater when you're bleeding the coolant you just wait for the radiator fans to come on and turn off twice and then you're bleeding system is complete you can check the heat to make sure you do have heat before shutting off the vehicle but do not force the heat to come out before the vehicle is bled for the next drain and fill

Excellent video and demonstration. I need to change my oil pan gasket and was reluctant to do it, your video boosted my confidence. Saving $460 by doing it myself, many thanks!

Thank you so much for this video

Thank you for trying, but next time, try and put your wood glue on the staple before. I know it’s not easy and use a cloth on your pliers so you do not damage the paint or wood on lever. You can wrap tape around the end of your pliers and sometimes that’s easier than holding a wrapped cloth. We don’t want to damage anything else.😂 other than that good job.

This was very helpful. In my situation my blower fan kicks off after a long time. Comparing to your thermal sensor position, mine is mounted right underneath the fireplace facing up. I think it would have been more optimal if it was mounted where yours is. Since heat radiates upwards probably that is why my thermal sensor takes time registering the heat due to its location. 👍

Thank you! This came in hand for me today!

Fantastic video, thanks for sharing 👍

Thank you sir, your video led me to the problem, in other words i love you

I es the reason why the thermostat wasn’t sending a signal, the reason the thermostat had to power ?

Спасибо 👍

What if multimeter shows 1.33v on "dead" battery and "smart" charger keeps rejecting the batteries? I tried to jumpstart the "dead" batteries with you trick, 4 x 1.2V in a row and recovered one of my "dead" batteries but i have 2 eneloop pro black AA that multimeter reads 1.33V but charger almost immediately 2-3 seconds rejects them. Do i have to (maybe) full discharge them first?

Thank You. Mine works great now

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❤

Thank you for close up shots. Another site d I es great instruction but losey camera shots.

I’m in 220v country now, If I found a 220v element, do I need to replace control panel and power cable for it to work on 220v?

Don't even. Just SIE and wish you had gas. They don't do anything. Just get a few good space heaters.

I've always had a hard time getting that tail light assembly off my 2011 Pilot. The spackle knife trick really works. Thanks for the tip!

Literatur

Would a damaged element keep the lights on the control from coming on? Like setting temp etc

Need video showing receptacle eeplacement

Thanks for the updates brother 🙏 keep it that way 👍

Anyone else watch the whole video only to check the breaker box and have it tripped 😂

Best video education for fireplace,thank you!

My Printer is Ricoh Ri100 - garment ink textile printer. Can I reset CMYK chip?

😂😂😂

So there is no waste to empty?

Thanks a lot

Bad idea

PLEASE DONT WASTE YOUR TIME DOING THIS!!! JUST DIP IT IN ACETONE, ITLL BE DISOLVED IN SECONDS

Big thanks to DIY Tinker for this vid and a big thanks to jimsmith9803 for saying which part of the code to delete for a read only. My Samsung ML1670 also has a 4 pin chip that looks exactly the same, but the order is different. The longest/biggest pad is the ground, then CLK, Data and Vcc on the outside. The printer also feeds 3.3V, so putting on 5V will fry the chip, I took off 3.3V from the Mega2560. Nice thing is the pads were labelled with a silkscreen, this is for the MLT-D104S toner cartridge. Here is the dump from my Mega2560: 14:09:12.116 -> Scanning... 14:09:12.116 -> I2C device found at address 0x28 ! 14:09:12.163 -> done 14:09:12.163 -> 14:09:20.728 -> Start 14:09:20.728 -> 14:09:20.728 -> 14:09:20.728 -> Read 128 bytes: 14:09:20.728 -> 0:0 1:0 2:0 3:0 4:0 5:0 6:0 7:0 8:0 9:0 10:0 11:0 12:0 13:0 14:0 15:0 16:0 17:0 18:0 19:0 20:0 21:0 22:0 23:0 24:0 25:0 26:0 27:0 28:0 29:0 30:0 31:0 32:0 33:0 34:0 35:0 36:0 37:0 38:0 39:0 40:0 41:0 42:0 43:0 44:0 45:0 46:0 47:0 48:0 49:0 50:0 51:0 52:0 53:0 54:0 55:0 56:0 57:0 58:0 59:0 60:0 61:0 62:0 63:0 64:0 65:0 66:0 67:0 68:0 69:0 70:0 71:0 72:0 73:0 74:0 75:0 76:0 77:0 78:0 79:0 80:0 81:0 82:0 83:0 84:0 85:0 86:0 87:0 88:0 89:0 90:0 91:0 92:0 93:0 94:0 95:0 96:0 97:0 98:0 99:0 100:0 101:0 102:0 103:0 104:0 105:0 106:0 107:0 108:0 109:0 110:0 111:0 112:0 113:0 114:0 115:0 116:0 117:0 118:0 119:0 120:0 121:0 122:0 123:0 124:0 125:0 126:0 127:0 14:09:21.432 -> End Printer report shows toner is 98% full. I basically just soldered 4 wires directly to the chip pads and 10K pullup resistors between Vcc and CLK /SDA.

well what to do if you dont have that thing you have to shock them? lol

Can this approach partially be used for Xerox XE550TK tonerchips?

Very disappointing, how the old reliable and serviceable ball and teflon socket with two donut gaskets units, which are still in use in thousands of installations, was "upgraded" by a cartridge unit that wears out at least as fast, then is simply thrown out and replaced by another. Our fifty year old business had several in sinks, and I only ever replaced o-rings, seals, and the donuts - the stainless balls lasted indefinitely, while the brief experiment with nylon balls was a disaster. At least Delta still supports the old reliable versions, which can often be revived with a soak in CLR to remove caked on deposits, then put back into service.

Pretty good video... one thing that jumped out is I did not see where the tank was disinfected prior to teflon tape and valve installation.... fairly important and also an annual procedure.

D2fc-f-7n(20m)

What is the name of the tool you are using

Clear caulk? We gone

Thanks bro

I watched because I wanted to know where the filter is located dick weasel. Thanks for not helping

Oops who else didn’t add water haha

I can’t get the chain tight enough

I think it would be better to replace the oil filter first because oil from filter and old filter can be put into drain pan without big mess then dispose filter. Then drain the oil. I'm changing to this procedure to make things easier.

Thank you! My wife’s parking pass slid down by the VIN. This worked great.