🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 so go on a diet,... you would now redo your car... fix your tummy... return it to the way it used to be...

Looking at your video it looks like you aided a really thick layer of foam to that seat. On my seat i measure 7 1/2 Inch from bottom to top of seat, yours looks way higher. Changing the thickness of foam changes everything, same problem on back rest of seat. The steering wheel is even in a good case to close to the driver. But aiding to much foam makes that the wheel is to close to your chest and it will touch your legs. The TD has little room for passengers as is. If you look for creature comfort you bought the wrong car. Where i found most problems was space for feet. I had a hard time operating the clutch pedal (wide feed and i like to wear crocs). Once i trimmed on the left the vertical cover back to where the wood frame ends i made lots of space for my feet. Keep in mind you have the graphite release bearing for clutch, keeping a foot on clutch pedal is not a option, that graphite release bearing will be gone in no time. Here a joke, everything in the UK is named royal, royal this royal that. So are the MG's, they are a royal pain sometimes.

Kindly can you tell what episode to fit the floor if its under the gearbox cover?

Interesting vid.reminds me of when I did a Riley motor 20 yrs ago. I have a 48 TC and think I may need to remove the engine and investigate a noise once my car hits 50mph on highway.If I back off the noise goes so regardless of it being a bearing knock or cam shaft issue will mean a strip down. I am down south in Nowra NSW and can tell you are from Oz. Do you know or can reccomend any engine reconditioners familiar with these engines should I need to have repairs done. My Riley many years ago went to Parrys in Sydney. The local place in Nowra always seems busy with truck engines but have been helpfull in the past crack testing stuff like stub axles. Not a job I really want to do. My TC still runs with 60lb oil pressure and only oil leak so far seems to between the head and block near manifold. Any info would be welcome. Ian

Hi, great video..I am about to replace my cam shaft as it has a lobe worn off..Did you just insert the newCam Shaft front bearing, or did you have a machine shop line bore it after insertion..The manual seems to suggest that that is necessary ?

Are you placing the rubber pieces between the body parts?

Great information. I’ve got one that needs to be gone through. Maybe not to the extent that you have but brakes for sure.

great content that is

once again - great conrenr but irritating music 1

good subject matter but kill the music !!

Hi, you say you are not a qualified mechanic. I am a Mechanical Engineer and believe me, you are streets ahead of the so called "qualified mechanics" I have come across over the past sixty years 😊. Rgds, joe

I am replacing my trannie with a rebuilt one. On your video and the TD manual I understand it is important to mark where the drive shaft lies in relation to the transmission before disconnecting. I am not removing the drive shaft. What do I need to know about connecting the drive shaft to the new transmission? Is there a certain alignment?

I'm thinking of finally getting an old MG after seeing one in a movie in the late 1960's as a teen. (US) I'd love a TC, but they are out of my price range. So I'm looking around for a affordable TD. I'm watching your videos in awe!!!. Great work. It does send shivers down my spine seeing you torque those nuts with a crow bar on your lug threads. I would have put a small piece of rubber tubing on them at least, or some duck tape. But I'm watching this playlist in September 2023, so I'm sure you finished the car and are enjoying driving it, so..... Cheers!!!!

It’s been a year since your last video. Did you move on and sell the car, or been busy with life and haven’t had time, or did you get a new car, all of above questions. Hope all is well.

Hi Jamie ... hoping you are still monitoring. Would you mind sharing the dimensions of the wooden cart you built for the body tub? I'm about ready to pull the body off my '53 and would like to duplicate that cart. Thanks.

Sealer between wood and firewall and tub also dont and water will come thru

Shim the rear body mount

And a year later still no give-a-way.

Are the body parts attached with bolts, or do you have do drill out welds?

What happened to the free dashcam give-a-way ? It never happened.

If I look at your backrest and possibly your seats as well, there may be fabric versions of one or more restorations underneath your upholstery. That was the case with me, I took off the upholstery and removed the two older versions of the upholstery, then put the existing version back on, that makes a difference!

Whenever I've rebuilt and engine I've always put the main bearing caps on first and torqued them to spec to check that the crankshaft turns freely. That's something you cannot check if you connect the con-rods first because of piston drag.

Great work on the car - looking good. You might want to ask your helper to hold off on the sanding while you are recording your videos though! Thanks for the helpful vid.

Fantastic work! What a pleasure to see!

Rest In Peace

Jamie. Looking great. Hope to see an update soon. Wondering where did you buy the fuel sender screws with the allen head from. Needing them for my 52TD.

Really enjoyed your entire series ! Redoing a TC but very similar process. Look forward to future videos.

Any posts beyond this one?

???

i'm 5' 8" and 170 lbs and i wouldn't want to be too much larger. i'm snug in my '52 TD as is. the simple trut the seat bottoms only move forward and back and the entire back only TILTS forward and back. to get the most room the seat bottom needs to be, strangely enough, moved forward as much as possible and the back needs to be set ast vertical as possible. one will be sitting bolt upright but have the most leg room and sitting as low as possible. of course the steering wheel needs to be pushed as far forward as it allows.

MG guy. Are you still alive ? You haven't updated the rebuild in months. Hope you are OK !

It's been a while. Am I missing any episodes? Perhaps the car is on the road by now?

Thanks, you saved me from doing exactly the same thing with my radiator mount!

On your thread/washer lube, what type (oil, moly, ??) or brand did you use? Also reading elsewhere about using thread lube on torqued bolts it says to reduce the torqued value (because of the decreased friction of the lube). Did you reduce the torque? If not why not? thanks for videos!!

Damn!!!! I missed this update somehow, & so missed my opportunity for the giveaway 😕 but still great to see the progress……. Door cards look beautiful too👌🏼 This car is gonna be absolutely gorgeous, Jaimie, & I can’t wait to see it in the metal one day in the future♥️

If your oil gauge pipe is short why not swap the ignition switch and oil gauge so the oil gauge is on the left. May give you enough room

Who won the camera give-a-way ?

Love your work 👍

She’s looking beautiful 🥰

Hi Jamie, I’m your size and only just fit in my TF. I have considered reducing the thickness of the seat back to move me further back. At the moment, I just put up with it. The price we pay for being large folks with midget cars.

The TD dash is quite different to the TF so I can’t help, I’m afraid.

Great job 👍

My fuel gauge is a timber stick with lines on it!

It’s looking fantastic👍

Love your work 👍

Jamie I just added a post onto the previous video regarding your seat back. As far as the steering shaft splines. I would suggest you apply Never Seize to the splines. It’ll make it much easier to slide and extract it later. Use it quite sparingly and wipe of any excess. Also be sure to have something in the floor to catch any excess that might scrape off during the initial insertion. You don’t want to foul your carpets I’m 6’-1” and 280lbs. I hate to admit the later but our girth’s are similar. By using a 15” Motolita steering wheel I can get in and out of the car fine. It’s my big 13 shoes I have a problem with when getting through the threshold. I also have the seat back tilted back for comfort.

The sweet purr of an XPAG.

Perfectionism is why we do this! 😂 DONT USE ETHANOL. The rubber in the fuel lines between the carbies breaks down with ethanol and can cause a fire.

I realise this was a year ago, but I find motivation disappears when you have jobs to do that require a lot of thought/trial and error and are a little outside your comfort zone. The best way forward, for me, is to have a break then start back doing a little each day until the way forward becomes clear. I’m sure thats what you did last year. 👍

Great job. On a TF the grill is all chrome.