Excellent video. I've shot film and digital since the 1960s. The metal, mechanical, manual camera has a special place in my heart. That's how I learned photography. It made embracing digital easy, because I knew what the automation was trying to accomplish... and how to override it.

wtf is this plant in the frame LMAO

Just don't. I used film and digital ePhotography is way better. The environmental damage caused by processing film is terrible, and all us older photographers are guilty. Toners like selenium, potassium ferrocyanide were all washed down the sink along with developing, fixing and stop bath chemicals. My motor drive did 3.5 fps (frames per second). The cost of each photo, film, developing and contact prints would be about $2. Each. Just to get a 6x4 print and that $2 goes to $3/frame. And that's negative film. Using transparency film was even more expensive. So 1 sec is over $10. A 36 exposure film would cost over $100 all up. I did sports photos, and that cost was always holding me back. I'd hesitate, and the moment is gone. With digital, I don't have to worry, and I now take exceptional sports images. (I didn't have auto focus either, so that could be costly). A 30mp digital camera blows 35mm film away in quality. I still have a 4X5 sinar (takes film sheets 4 inches by 5 inches), and when I was working as a pro, I'd also use a 10-inch by 8-inch camera. Those sheets of film were eeeeeeexpensive, and mistakes weren't tolerated. A contact print off a 10x8 neg or tranny is exceptional, but these modern 100mp studio cameras are more than a match. Digital images have better dynamic range than any film and raw images simply have way way way more information than film can capture. My personal technique was to shoot 4x5 images on transparency film (usually velvia 50 or 100asa), then contact print onto line film which I then developed in paper developer to get a contone (continuous tone) black and white negative. I'd usually contact print the B&W neg on a double weight fiber based paper, then selenium tone them to archival standards and make limited runs of "artistic" images for sale. They will last over 500 years before any sign of deterioration, fading, etc. I didn't make much money.

I have carena srh760 camera and I wanna know how to use it

So you are one of these people that uses Squarespace for a grainy days fanfiction :D anyway cool video

18:55 are mine! Lovely video, and I am glad you like them 🫵🏼😁

but the cameras are cheap

You flashed around a few cameras but if it is a Pentax k1000 that you need a battery for you can use a LR44 silver oxide battery. It is equivalent to the original. The numbers changed a bit over the years. I found on the internet what the equivalent was and the information is out there for numerous old button battery sizes.

Have you tried adding a orange or yellow filter in order to achieve a closer result?

This is a very good primer on film photography. You totally grasp the principles of what makes film photography enjoyable. I learned photography on film in the early 1970s as a photojournalism major. Back then, the flagship 35mm film camera was the Nikon F and F2. While I carried both as a maritime photographer, my favorite camera for that work was the beautiful but heavy Nikkormat FT2. These Nikon cameras can still be found in working condition for an inexpensive price compared to most top level DSLRs. And those old pre AI and AI-S lenses are a joy to use. You can mitigate expenses in shooting film by hand developing your own film and instead of making prints the old fashioned way, using an enlarger, just buy a cheap Nikon DSLR like a D40 or D3000 and set it up for macro work to digitize your film images and use an ink jet printer to make your prints on inkjet photo paper. To tell the truth, while I enjoyed making my own wet prints in the darkroom, I much prefer Photoshop without all the smelly chemicals. To develop an eye for black and white film photography, set your DSLR to shoot grayscale images and you'll begin to see the world as shades of gray, seeing composition, form and contrast values without color getting in the way. Above all, resist the urge to "chimp" just shoot your grayscale black and white digital images and wait until you get home to see what you got. Gives you something to look forward to and forces you to be more deliberate in choosing the image, working with the viewfinder instead of relying on live view screens and getting a feel for judging exposure values if you set your digital camera on manual mode. Like in the old days, set your digital camera on one ISO value and practice shooting all day on that exposure value as if you were shooting film with a fixed ISO. In my old Nikon FE2, I could set my camera to aperture priority mode and you can certainly do that with a DSLR as well. After all these years, I embrace digital photography, but shoot more in a hybrid style, using both film and digital sensibilities to explore my world. At my age, shooting aboard ships, in dry docks and climbing shipboard ladders isn't in the cards anymore, but I still enjoy making photos cafeteria style, choosing the best tools of both analog and digital worlds to keep my photography fun.

Should I start off with an analog camera over a digital camera

I expected the exposures to misalign with that method. I wonder how to align double exposures consistently. To shoot a whole roll of double exposures, your method--shooting all the silhouettes first, and the textures second--seems efficient. If using a double exposure feature on a camera, you'd enter or exit your studio before each shot, which is ideal only if you wanted a few double exposures on a roll. Thanks for this video.

Wes Anderson? Did you ever hear about Magritte? Do you really think everything is in photography was invented by Wes Anderson? What about Kubrik? Eisenstein? Fritz Lang? Go to school my friend. Nice try.

Sorry, these images need to fill the screen

This is cool, watching more than once

You can read the interview Lomography did with me on their magazine here: www.lomography.com/magazine/353410-the-art-of-silhouettes-bart-visser-s-double-exposure-experience-with-the-fantome-kino-b-w-film

Interesting. I do suspect quiet a bit of AI. Are there rules? Another category would be nice ie Black and White. Thanks and Cheers from Australia,

Great insightful video, It has given me some ideas. Thank you, we appreciate you and the videos you create.

T-max 3200 is not 3200 iso either

Wrong you want to give people a leg up in photography don’t you? I would recommend a more modern SLR with accurate shutter speeds and extremely good light meters and then later they can progress. The last thing you want is a new photographer to be discouraged and disappointed! You don’t throw new swimmers into the deep end of the swimming pool right off the bat.

I'll try it again someday with a warm filter or sth

What could be wrong with the box camera? Those are really simple to repair.

if you open a camera with a film inside, it will not ruin all the film, only like 4 frames. Film when it is rolled is not transparent. Of course unless you open it and leave under the sun for hours, then yes gradually the light will soak in deeper layers of the film.

developing film actually is really cheap, and scanning is just one time payment

I knew all this (been shooting film since the 1990s), but it was still interesting. I'll just say this about the light meter apps on smartphones : be a little wary of them. I have the same one you're recommending, but I also have a "traditional" hand held light meter, and they do not give me the same results. And in every situation, the hand held light meter is right, and the app is wrong. On the rare occasions when I relied solely on the app, my negs came back underexposed, sometimes enough to make the image unusable, so more than 1 stop... so beware :) But keep shooting film ! It's expensive, it's a pain, but it's so rewarding, and so much more beautiful than digital :)

I am looking to get (back…one black and white class in college) into photography and really I just want to get to spend time with a technology I feel was robbed from me that I was fascinated with in my youth and take what I consider to be “real” photos of my fiancee and I on our camping trips. So, some art, and some or most practical. I recently purchased a Bell and Howell Dial on ebay but have not used it yet. (It didn’t occur to me til after i purchased it that in order to stop using my phone as a camera, I got a camera that looks like a phone.😂) Now, the only thing that worried me was, because it is a half frame camera, getting through enough shots to be able to switch to a different film for night photography by the fire would be tough. Solution: today my Mom showed me that she has my Grandma’s ( who was 103 til last year) Olympus superzoom 2800 dlx point and shoot. So, perfect, while I’d like to be artsy and learn, now I feel I have the opportunity to do both that and easy quick photography. Now my question for you is this: Which one do you think would be better to designate for a “night” camera and put the faster film in?

Hello, will you make some more content please. Your channel is helpful and gives us motivation. Your real like a lot of us. We can relate to your content and you. Please make more. Thank you

Lomo Purple is fun to shoot with. I usually tend to overexpose it otherwise I get very muddy results. Those greenhouses were so pretty!

What is the name of the app please ?

does anyone know what app he uses as the light meter? because i can't find it

I almost exposed my first roll to light early, and I would’ve lost my first film picture ever if it hadn’t been for my parents quick intervention.

One thing to remember on the "expensive equipment" part Some of the most famous/important pictures taken were done on run of the mill "tourist" cameras

" I wish I had known", please.

excellent topics presented very Clearly. Good job. lots of info explained very well

Really loved this video! I'm just getting started in my analog/film journey and this was a super helpful starting place. Especially loved your point about a benefit being to get away from instant gratification. That is one of the many reasons I've decided to pick up this hobby.

I've been a photographer for half a century. Anyone taking up film photography really needs to develop and scan, and if possible darkroom print their own films. Paying a lab to develop black and white films will only give you half the experience. Developing your own film costs pennies per film. So yes get a cheaper camera and a developing tank and some chemistry. You can develop your own film in your own way, giving you your own look. It takes time so be patient.

I keep seeing videos like this, and it feels like they all effectively say the same thing as what people who actually say this mean as a debunking of the myth. People aren't literally saying gear doesn't matter, they mean that the gear's SPECS don't. Find something you enjoy shooting on over chasing the latest and greatest. 100mp is useless if the bulk makes you not use it.

The only thing that doesn't matter for sure these days, is photography itself.

DDR = Deutsche Demokratische Republik, same as GDR = German Democratic Republic ("East" Germany). This "T2.8/50" is a Tessar lens (4 elements in 3 groups), a quite famous lens type with some nice rendering, and you should get it repaired/cleaned (maybe cleaning the mechanics will do). If you got a decent one (quality was all over the place back then), you might actually quite like it. I do have one (with "Tessar" on it, not only "T", depended on where this lens was sold - trademark issues ;-)), and my copy is quite good: Very sharp, nice bokeh wide open, definitely a keeper. Well, I no longer have an M42 camera, but I use it on my Sony A7 now and then, and maybe, one day, I might get back to M42, maybe with a Praktica, or some older Exa with M42.

Sunny 16 is helpful to check the light meter in your camera (besides damages or wrong adjustment, the light metering in the camera can be tricked quite easily depending of what's in the frame). It is a good idea to learn the basic "rules" of it (it can get really complicated, I would rather stick to the simple rules - or what is printed inside the film packaging, where there's still a simple chart with some film stocks).

Love praktica cameras. Excellent performance and beautiful industrial design

The biggest lie in photography. "everyone is sleeping on this camera/this camera is underrated" keep manipulating the market

gear mater ,, start photography in 1999 with nikon f60 , and later buy a f90 new that still have , but if i will start shooting film again i will use my mamiya rb from the 70is , i also had a nikonf3 was the best 35mm manual camera ,i only shot one film with it , that one got stolen ,, i may get one again at some point ,

if you have more money and upgrade upgrade upgrade gear dont matters 😅 i think

Gear doesn’t matter. Advertising does.

I found a Contax T at a flea market in a box full of crap cameras I paid $10 I have it still in working order 😉

if i had to guess id say gear is only about 30% of it.

Great content, thank you and appreciate this so much. You just make good stuff.

The biggest lie in photography is that gear reviews aren't sponsored.

The 387S battery fits in the Spotmatic camera. Spotmatic cameras have special circuitry that allows you to use a 1.5v battery. I have used the 387S in my Spotmatic SP with excellent results.