i would run an s2r1000 at 100hz

@@bradthebikeboy if you say so, i will do so thanks for the fast reply aswell. Im very grateful that you put out so many videos ive watched a lot in the last weeks but you always have a little tip and or Something that makes it a little easier so thanks a lot for such helpfull videos. Hope you have a great week, much love from germany ✌🏻

not really. 907 is the same as st2, what i would call a traditional 2v. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jKjYd6Zpbb2JbKc

5 years or 20,000km. well, 2007> MS4R/RS would be 24,000km as they increased the major service intervals to 12,000km.

19020013a is just the generic steel pack. i haven't bought one of them for years, so don't have any idea what they're supplying now. usually that was the very outside plate used up until 91 or so. sounds like you've been supplied the wrong part to me, or it's in the wrong box. wet clutch packs were like that up to 97 too. should have 7 of the same style frictions, 8 of 2mm steels and 1 of 1.5mm conical steel.

Thanks, this is helping alot

@@bradthebikeboy it definitely a old style 750 clutch pack with the clutch slave in the clutch cover like the paso or 88 sport and early 750 SS. Thanks

i use a 3/8 extension, but you need to be mindful that the valve is sitting on the top of the piston, and you'll bend it if you hit the shim too hard. just tappy tappy tappy for as long as it takes. the collets can be a real pita, i use a little screwdriver or pick. the biggest concern there is losing them as they fly away. you can have the shim down a touch, but tstill covering them somewhat and get a pick in between the ends of the collets. no magic method though. generally, the stuck collets is a real 1198 thing ime.

​@@bradthebikeboyCheers. The tapping with the extension trick worked well. I hope the other 2 valves I used with the hammer aren't bent ... Still need to get those bloody collets out whilst struggling with a plastic pry bar against the rocker

the retaining plate. subject of this video.

spanner or right angle screw driver?

@@bradthebikeboy ok, figured maybe i need to get a longer spanner. thanks attemping now!

106 degrees ish, depending on the piston to valve clearance. that would determine it. probably as advanced as possible to maintain 1.5mm piston to valve clearance.

i'll do a video on stands.

@@bradthebikeboy the would be great. I look forward to it !

at what time point in the video are you seeing this? this bike has a lot of stains from fuel leaking from the tank.

no idea. find a little spring shop i guess.

#887131091. any dealer or google search. www.google.com/search?q=ducati+887131091&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBAU809AU809&oq=ducati+887131091&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIKCAEQABiABBiiBDIKCAIQABiABBiiBDIKCAMQABiABBiiBDIKCAQQABiABBiiBDIKCAUQABiABBiiBDIGCAYQRRhAMgYIBxBFGDzSAQgzNjI1ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

@@bradthebikeboy Thank you !!! that helped alot. Ill order asap

guessing you can't be bothered watching and just want answers huh? i have said many times, if you have no intention of adjusting the clearances, just go and do something else instead of checking anything. there's really no point. do it right, or just don't do it. simple. if you go by the ducati specs it's probably fine. it will be for a long time. want it to run as well as it can? it'll need adjusting. 0.10mm opening clearance, zero closing clearance.

@@bradthebikeboy that's a lot of words for a half-assed answer. Just like your videos, which I did watch through all 5 parts actually, but it's a lot of rambling and not much doing so naturally people skip over a lot of it. No worries, found a more concise and to the point video after I asked that question which answered the simple question I asked.

@@sbk1198 finding an answer that tells you what you want to hear is the trick.

it doesn't matter what i do mate, someone always complains. got any idea how many hours i spend editing these things?

@@bradthebikeboy That's not a complaint. That's an entitled bufoon cause he shouldn't have to sift through your effort to cover the many variances of Showas in a single vid. "Can you make a version that only covers my fork cause you're wasting my time about forks that I don't even own?" "Less knowledge please ." said no one ever.

all threaded, with an o-ring under the nut on the inlet.

for 2004 and 2005 model year, yes.

Ok merci, mais ma st3s est de 2006. Dommage

@@michelbelka5763 2006 is a linear tps, reset electronically via a diagnostic tool only. there is no mechanical adjustment.

👍 merci beaucoup pour cette réponse, maintenant il faut que je trouve l’ appareil électronique

no, i'm in melbourne.

if it's all apart i'd set them to 12mm as they fall to closed, not with the carbs fully upside down. no point waiting until it's all together to find it needs to come apart again. occasionally they're off.

and today's award for "delightfully random comment without context" goes to this guy.

get some generic glasses from the chemist with the stronger lenses. +3 are great for helping to see things.

yeah, i wouldn't own them if i had to pay someone to work on them.

​@@bradthebikeboy I always said I like a challenge. But I'm used to the Japanese inline 4 type of challenge. Have you any general advice about getting started in the Ducati world? They seem amazing machines for those prepared for them

@@Khar_Toba it's just a motorcycle, it should be expected to behave as a motorcycle. don't buy into the typical "temperamental italian mistress" bullshit some blokes just love. spend the money to do things properly, or just don't bother.

@@bradthebikeboy Yes I had perceived a bit of mystique which is often nonsense in disguise. Thanks for keeping it real, I'll try not to be deterred by not being familiar

on ds style engines 2005 ish and later they changed the lh journal on the cam to be narrower and further out, and i find on those engines they can get noisy when hot if the belts are tighter than 105hz or so. so i set them at 100hz. you can do whatever you like. experiment and see what you find. the only difference is the possible noise when hot. it's a horrid noise.

i use the genuine tool. well, an old one. 887131062 looks like the one i have. it's just a couple of discs on a threaded rod that pulls them in. does work nicely if you use it well, always use the fixed disc to pull the cone in. otherwise they can cock if you use the floating disc i find. heat is up to you, but it's fairly easy to damage the paint around steering head tubes ime, much more than you'd expect. the steel isn't going to grow a lot, but it can help.

it's not something i usually see on these, just happened to be a compounding issue.

i guess so. the smaller gear on the crank will reduce the torque at the crank, both keys should be fine if the nuts are all tight.

@@bradthebikeboy Thanks 👍

if i was standing next to it and could touch it - i'd start going through the list of what could be wrong. over the internet - no. get someone who knows what they're doing to look at it. or learn. do everything - compression test, check tune, valve clearances, etc. sooner or later you'll find it.

​@@bradthebikeboyyeah i have to do the big desmo service in 3k km so then i have to take it all apart, i thought there might be a easier way to mabye set the idling a bit higher or something but i guess it aint that easy on an injecting bike

@@flegolas3296 it has an idle control valve, so should be taking care of the idle speed itself. you need a diagnostic tool to see what it thinks is happening, and go from there. give the idle control valve a spray with some cleaner - i like the three bond engine conditioner. clean the throttle bodies in case they're gunked up. all sorts of things could be the issue.

@@bradthebikeboy ill start by getting an Diagnostik tool thanks so far tho i didnt know about the idle valve thats a cool Thing

not sure i understand the question. do you mean can you just remove the old belts, fit the new ones, tension them and ride away? of course. i'm doing the cam timing because it has all been apart.

@@bradthebikeboy you doing cam timing because you don't have old belts with marks, right?

@@Юра-щ2о8я no. i don't need marks on the belts. i guess you kind of missed the point of a lot of it. it has all been apart, so it's one of the things i do as i reassemble an engine.

@@bradthebikeboy now it's clear)))

​​@@bradthebikeboybut....😊 on an older engine, like m600 can I do without adjusting the camshaft, just use the window on the side of the alternator to set the rollers to the marks and put on and tension the belts setting the number of teeth symmetrically on both belts?