@@ianmcculloch8531 There is always that risk. If you can't get a friend to recommend someone for repairs that's the best option. A little bit of understanding can give you enough information to decide if you need to drop money on a repair. They have a big problem with leaking out of the high and low connection ports. Aluminium housing for a metal valve was never a good design.

@@Swenser not that I remember but it was at least a year ago. Try resetting it again.

@@LK-bz9sk if it only lasts a short while before it fails again then there is probably a faulty cell. There are good tutorials in how to test every cell but basically you charge them individually then leave the pack to sit for a week. Then test to see which ones are low voltage. If it's two in parallel then one or both may be faulty. Replace them with known good ones and reset again. Otherwise break. Open the pack and salvage the good cells for a battery bank or to fix a different pack.

@@trevor02150 mine were Phillips head screws still I couldn't set a torque on them but maybe you can google that. If they are Philips head then you probably can't over torque them anyway. Put a dash of nail polish just on the edge of the head of the screw and extends to the metal so it acts as a lock( brittle lock but holds well). I would not use thread lock on the threads

They are metric threaded bolts with a Phillips head. You could use bolts as long as they are but too long. If they are too long you may hit the windscreen glass. I had the right tap and bolts. Tapping the holes meant I don't have to try to fit a nut at the back. You could use bolts and nuts if you are dexterous. Rivnuts would also be good for the purpose.

@@lynpatnat Thanks for the reply. Can I use self tapping screws? The stabiliser is more of an alloy material.

@@MarkMoffat-hl9em you could use them but I would be worried that they may work loose. There is a lot of power from a window winding up and down. The flexing may make the screws work loose over time. A decent sized woodtek screw may work ( just remember to trim the length after test fitting so that it doesn't hit the glass and break it as it moves up and down)

@@lynpatnat Thanks again...I'll make sure they are not to long.

I'm assuming you mean the torx bolts. I think it's possible to use a flat bread screw driver to get them out if you need them up. You need to use quality bits so they don't v time out and you need to tap the bit into the head so it's seated properly. Google for getting stuck torx screw out. Maybe even hit the head of the bolt with a punch.

Thanks. I think my next video will be about the failed speedometer in my 1993 80 series LandCruiser. There seems to be almost no information about how it works and how to test it. There are bits and pieces but nothing that stands out as a one stop knowledge base.

They can be slippery little buggers.

@@lynpatnat ive still got swearing at it up my sleeve too, so will hit it with a double whammy

That's great. Good to have a win for no cost. I've heard sometimes the wiring can break too near the connector base at the dfi.

I've heard that batteries will go into hibernation if they are fully flat. Connect 12v to the correct terminals for about 30 seconds then put them straight on charge. If that doesn't work then open up the pack. Find the + and - connect at the first and last battery and do it at that point ( maybe give it a couple of minutes). Then put it on charge. If that fails. Test voltage of every cell and charge them one by one at 4.2v until fully charged. Sometimes they are just protecting us from ourselves and sometimes just trying to make extra money. If you get lucky it's a win.

That's a perfect outcome. Money back in your pocket . It's such a fucked world that they set timers on these batteries. Makita are worse but I have read you can buy replacement boards inside the batteries from Ali express and change them over to get them working again.

@@lynpatnat hey your right! I’m pretty sure my battery over heated As that heat sensor was blacky brownie colour Would that have stop it working ? and that’s why it needed a reset? I’m just a Brickie with absolutely no clue of electrics I peeled the heat senser off and cleaned it and clean the top bit like you did and then got a hair pin and bridged those two hole to reset it ? I can’t believe it’s fixed….. what do you think the problem was mate? That’s for you help 🤙

@@wolfdog1722 it does sound like it overheated. I'm not sure what the component is ( maybe a safety/ thermal device) but hey if it fixed it then that's a win. Tradies give everything a thrashing so I guess even the factory can't think of a harder way to test tools. If companies want people to keep buying their power tools then they need to come up with better ideas than just bricking batteries. I'm but a tradies ( retired) so I just buy Ozito. You can't beat 5 year warranty (2 or is it 3 years on batteries) as long as I keep the receipt but they are not trade tool build. If ever you needed to rebuild a battery though you could pull the cells out of a Ozito battery pack but that's a whole different level of fixing things.

@@lynpatnat thanks for all your help! A mate of mine gave me a Arbortech all saw just before he went back to England and said it was fucked Anyway I got it out of the garage yesterday and watched another video on KZbin on how to fix an Arbortech and all it was was a little rubber belt had snapped , so I’m getting one now from Sydney Tools for $29 job done The tool cost over -$1200 new

@@wolfdog1722 I hate seeing things go in the bin. Repair and reuse. We all have two hands and a brain. We can all learn the skills to fix things. KZbin is so helpful for passing on this knowledge. Glad to be able help a few people and save money while reducing wastage. Cheers

It's also possible the batteries are out of balance. You can open them and charge each battery by itself. No need to dismantle just get a 18650 charger for individual cells and run jumper wires to one cell at a time. It takes a few days but when they are all fully charged then the battery may work correctly again. Each battery is 3.7v and fully charged it gets to 4.2v but then drops back. Search on KZbin for how to do it

@@lynpatnat Awesome. I certainly have one of those chargers. I'll check the voltage on each first. Thanks for the wonderful info. 👍🏼

@@DmacDomage sounds like you have a good grasp of what you need to do. Best of luck. Worst case you may be able to build one good battery out of the two but then you need to cut and spotweld cells and even I just give in at that point.

If it's the same era of battery and you touch a wire between the points then it will work. Unfortunately later versions with new firmware probably won't work. You may also have a failed battery or one failed cell. Nothing lasts forever.

Yes but Just for 1 second. That does a reset. It doesn't need to stay connected. You can use a paperclip or any piece of wire.

Also from memory the low side inside thread is m8. You can use a lock but on a bolt. Put a great if thread tape on the bolt. Screw it in about 10mm and lock down the lock nut. This week slow down the leak but probably went stop it. Plus the barb connection will flare so it hard to get the fittings on and you may have to use emery paper too make the small enough to regas it the next time. You may also be able to snug the valve down but I've had them go to shit and end up so deep in the fitting that you can't get gas in without backing them out again. Using aluminium for the pipes was such a crap idea. Maybe sooner can make new pipes. Thats singing something I've never looked into but it would solve half the issues. Our old car is making some death rattle lifter noise presently. I'm sitting on the fence as to weather it's worth the time and effort to fix. 509000 km. It's been a great car but nothing can run forever.

@@jimcheers4341 I am not sure of that gas. I think it's called r1234. That says it's not compatible but I bet it is. It's expensive at about $100 a can. You may find that if you pole at the valve and no gas comes out and you use a valve tool to make the high and low pressure valve are tight then maybe get a mobile guy out to give it a vac and regas. They should use a sniffer (about $1000 to buy) and then sort it out. They may want to replace the receiver dryer too but you can chance but doing that if you don't plan to keep the car for 10 more years. Micro leaks are buggers to find. Best of luck.

Ok, thanks again for the info and advice good sir , my mate at work has done his commo in recent yrs so it's doable an jus got the gas from Supercheap he said, take care

And yeah, I guess to avoid micro leaks jus go an buy the new lines etc and whole system

@@lynpatnat Yeah it seems like the rail/guides have disconnected already as the window is totally loose (yet I can slide it up or down) and the motors I can hear spinning but no longer doing anything. I guess taking the door trim would be the right thing to do but I'm too lazy at the moment. Thanks for your video. btw mines a cx8 Adventra.

@@petepumpkin8418 I think they are great cars. Very underrated. They cost a lot when new and we're well appointed. No way for Holden make any money making them. Removing the inside panel is quick. Do that and pull the plastic back then see what the job of that's needed. An aftermarket door mechanism is cheap. Just be aware most if the ones I've put in seem to be wired in reverse so you may need to swap the coins in the plug. That just takes a pointy probe. I'm not sure if the colours of the wires or what ones that you need to swap though. Drilling out the big rivets is easy and you could just use big self tapping screws instead of threading the holes. Just screw them in then take them back out one at a time and cut them shorter so they don't hit the window or the mechanism. You don't have to do the job in a day. You could have a look and order the parts and do it over a few weeks. It's well within the average persons ability. Cost should be less that $100 to have your car good for the next 10 years. Just check to see if the new actuator comes with the white rail clips. Some do and some don't.

Thanks. I believe so much in repair,reuse. Everything should be made to be repaired. We all can learn the skills needed to repair things. The added bonus is it saves money. Money you can use and enjoy. Cheers

Thanks. Doing the job yourself saves you around $1000 plus you have learnt something new. Happy to help. I've got to get off my ass and make some new videos. Haha.

@@GrouseGarage thanks it's nice to get the feedback. Especially positive feedback.

You could try swapping the relay under the bonnet In the black relay box. Maybe it's got a high resistance in the contacts of the relay. Then get some silicon spray and spray the felt rails on the door. You could get someone to push the button while you push the window up/ down. That should give you an idea if it's struggling in the felt guides. I have also had a plug for a window motor connection go bad. I had to give all the pins a bit of a scratch/bend/tweek to get them to make more contact. You will have to give each thing a try and see what works. An outside idea would be to make temporary earth from the door to the car just to rule out a bad earth. Move the door to different positions to see if the problem changes. A door opens and bends the wires so that can be a fracture point in the door harness. If you do find the fault get back on here and post a note. We can all learn from it. It's more likely to be a minor problem so just be methodical.

I had a bit of a google search and sometimes the BCM can be the problem. If the failure is on there then there is not much you can do except try a reset. I have copy/pasted what someone wrote that worked for them below. So not my words but see how it goes. Further checking of similar threads suggests the BCM auto down has crapped itself. I wonder if it possible for home user to reprogram it? I pulled the bcm fuse to no effect. *edit SOLVED* I solved issue by following reset pcm procedure. Get engine to running temp Turn ign on take out eng/cont bcm fuse under bonnet wait 20 secs for dash to beep at you ign off replace fuse (then follow procedure for idle learn i.e. put in drive for 5 mins, put in idle for 5 mins, turn off 30 secs) I found that this reset the BCM and windows issue resolved I think last time I had the ign off and pulled the fuse, not the procedure above

I'll give it a try

@@jessenorris1672 it does sound like the BMS may have a fault. If the reset doesn't work. That would then mean a new one even though it's probably just had contacts on a relay. Is it all windows or just one? If it's all then maybe the relay in the box in the engine bay. If it's just one then you would start to think it's the BMS. I normally reset the BMS just by disconnecting the battery turning on the ignition, turn on the headlights and push the brake lights. Then wait a few minutes. Then turn them all off and reconnect the battery. This basically drains why bit if power from the capacitors etc so you have a clean memory. It doesn't get rid of abs light problems though as they are safety ones. If it works let us know.

You can't beat getting a brand name. Clones are just that. Clones. I hope you didn't hurt your arm with the throwing.

Glad to help out. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks. It's nice to get feedback. Glad you fixed it

I need to sell tickets for the number of times I've heard that now. If you read the comments. Thanks all the same.

That's great to hear. I imagine if there is a problem with the electric motor that they just change it for a Chinese copy motor but they probably improve the scissor pivot problem. The plastic slides that break only fail because the scissor fails and it causes them to tilt.

That's how you want them. They are just like the factory ones then. Brilliant. There will be people who want them to remain original.

Sorry I don't have one taking the glass out. It can't be hard. Maybe some trim etc. Look to see a few GM car videos. That may be similar.

@@lynpatnat got it out mate ,cheers though

Thank you. I am so glad I could empower you to be able to check your own car. That's the goal.

Yep. Thanks. Noted a few times now. It does seem I can make the occasional mistake.

@@lynpatnat Modern cars dont break down like they used to thankfully;I am running a VX which is a good car but I dont drive it much;it has a bit of rough running or missing on a light throttle when cold;that goes away when it warms up;I dont know whether to try and fix it by replacing the DFI

@@samspianos almost certainly the DFI module. That's the classic symptoms. Try to get one off a wrecked car or even on eBay wreckers sell them cheap. If you get them from someone that has it in the shed they seem to happen have the same problems. They took them off their car as it was dicking around then put it in the shed and forgot about it until they were clearing out the shed and no longer remember just why is was in there. I always try to find one off a crashed car. They are expensive new and I've even had a new one fail when it was 30 minutes old.

Yep. Noted. If you look back through the comments. If you can add more info to help the community everyone appreciates the assistance. I know that the fault is with these. It's a broken microwire inside near the connection. The whole contents is set in a gell. Maybe if I cleaned that off and could run a jumper wire from there to the circuit board then I could show how to repair them. My eyes are getting a bit dim these days and the cars are nearing their end so this may be a thing for the next generation to work out.

That's great advice. It's good to see the community adding information. Every but helps. I had a laugh when you said you happened to have a tub of Vaseline nearby. There are so many more brow jokes just waiting to be done. I've recently noticed how quickly the Commodores are disappearing from the roads. Crash by crash it seems. I've also noticed the prices going up. Treat them well and keep them on the road.

Thanks. I absolutely agree. It should be about the job and but about hearing their own voice. Thanks for the encouraging words.

Got point. I'm over 60 so maybe it's more a generational thing. I hate to throw things away and waste them when it's often just one small just that fails or in this case just needs a reset.

Yes. It's always a wise move to disconnect the battery. Make sure you know your radio code before doing it if it's still the original unit. You could probably do this without disconnecting but the best thing about disconnecting is the computer is relatively dumb. It will reset most variables like fuel mixture etc so it gets to relearn. It won't forget safely items like air bag lights though. Rule of thumb is to disconnect the battery.

I just looked at my own video to confirm. As long as you have done the exact things in there it will come off. You may need to get a small block of wood and hammer and tap on the bit you want to come off. Hit the metal not the plastic housing. It may be a bit corroded as it's aluminium. Someone else mentioned their unit had a lot of corrosion on it. I'm not sure if what the outcome for them was but I would try changing the electronic part and seeing if it works once it's off.

Great work. What are your numbers? I like to get the info for future reference.

I did a quick search and find this on just Commodores. It may help when trying to get a part ...Copy/ paste There’s a wrecker in Canberra called CommWreck, his name is Shane. Last time I spoke to him he said he had approx 80 ABS modules in stock, definitely worth trying him if you can’t find one

Ib don't know the similarities but I'm sure a spark is not what you want to see. However if it works it works.