Replace Holden Commodore ABS VT VX VY

This is about the ABS modules the Fault symptoms are Dashlights coming on randomly. ABS light,Traction light, Beeping warning sound. Turning the car on an off often temporarily fixes the problem.
I explain the serial/part Numbers. Each model/year has it own modules. You must have the right one or one that is interchangeable. This video is for the 6 cylinder 3.8lt but the concept will apply to all models and variations. The numbers will differ so dont rely on them. Use the exact part that is fitted to your car if possible before trying different numbers. There are 8 pin(no traction control) and 10 pin(traction control) versions and ever some 12 pin models. If you are trying them out just to see if it may work make sure you start with matching the pin count. IE: those springs inside the module.
The faulty part of the module is one of the extremely fine wires that are set in the gel. The gel would need to be dissolved and the wire spot welded or soldered back on. It is so fine that you would need specialised equipment. If you have a powerful Jewellery lupe' you can see the break in the wire just as it joins the multi lug post. There are a number of wires and each time it has been the left most wire that has broken. It is a fatigue crack and probably a fault just waiting to develop right fro the factory.
Best of luck Any info that you can add I will edit the Text part of the file.

[@leighpurser2958]

Thanks mate your awesome appreciate you helping me out. Not I can do much as we are in lockdown. I’ve been working in country Victoria lately and I get sent from Shepparton to Stawell to work gets hard to find or even work on my Own car. I was an Power Steering Specialist and Auto Trans too haven’t worked in the industry for 10 years but I am well connected with Mechanics both in Shepparton and Melbourne.

[@speedfreak1161]

Well done mate , good explanation 👍

[@leighpurser2958]

As a mechanic that was great thank you my numbers are different and I have a VX too

[@lynpatnat]

Yes there will probably be a few variations with the numbers. If you use the wrong one it won't work but it's worth trying a different number is your have one. Make sure the number of pipes are the same on the pump. If they are give it a try. If your number works make a bit on here so little will know for future reference. Thanks

[@bozomula]

Thanks man great video

[@johnmiz1438]

Nice easy instructions thanks

[@lynpatnat]

Happy to help.

[@leighpurser2958]

I have an Airbag warning light come I think it may have something to do the the ABS issue but before I change the ABS module I think I should try and fix the ABS I have a code 163 but it’s in history I able to clear it but it comes back and again it’s in history. Thank you for getting back to me

[@lynpatnat]

Sorry I can't help on that one. The only thing is if a code keeps coming back on them there is a problem that needs resolving. Start with what your can do then remove the battery cables. Turn on the ignition, push brake peddle. That sound discharge computer memory. Then reconnect the battery and see if the code is gone. The next thing your can do it check the ABS units at each wheel. Disconnect the wheel unit plug then put a multimeter onto the two connecters on the wheel hub. Jack the wheel up. Spin the wheel and check for the small voltage generated. There are KZbin videos that week tell you how to do it.

[@dmystify1381]

you need to replace the SRS module.Not the airbag module in the steering wheel...the SRS module.Sometimes its under the dash and other times it could be under the seat and when they are really pissed off they put it in,under the center console...thats a pain.

[@leighpurser2958]

Thanks I think I’ll fix the ABS module it has to be done anyway and I’m am also using a Snapon scan tool it’s a great peace of kit

[@lynpatnat]

Lucky you you have the scan tool. Don't throw out the old module for a month busy incase is not the problem but mark it so you know I've got forget later.

[@A-moose1234]

great video.

[@lynpatnat]

Cheers. Thanks for the nice message.

[@RussellBooth1977]

I was trying to.diagnose a driveline vibration this afternoon meaning that I had both of the rear wheels off the ground on jackstands & both of the front wheels were spinning,yes it set off an ABS fault. The fix was driving the car 20 metres to the end of the driveway & the ABS module cleared itself,I had both rear wheels removed & I had to adjust the rear handbrake shoes anyway while the wheels were removed. The same can't be said for the SRS airbag when I had the airbag removed once & I turned the ignition switch to the on position which caused the module to hard set a warning message & airbag light. The fix for that was a trip to Holden so they could clear it for $75 using their TECH2 scanner/programmer. Sadly the same thing can't be said for my sister in laws 2009 model Mitsubishi CJ Lancer who her brother offloaded onto her & my brother,the ABS modules are failure prone in them,I scanned it as having a P1773 code stored on the PCM but it couldn't read the ABS module. My brother invested in an icarsoft scan tool which also reads the ABS module in the Lancer which scanned a C2116 meaning that the output voltage to the ABS pump module is low. That means it needs a new or used module or that the original module needs to be refurbished,I have never liked my brand of car anyway,I know people tried to con my father & my uncle into thinking that Mitsubishi make a great car but they both ended up going back to driving Holdens after discovering that they're just an oil burner that doesn't last very long as well. The ABS module in my car is almost 20 years old & it has done almost 371,500 kilometres now, it's never been replaced !

[@lynpatnat]

Thanks. The info may be of assistance but so far that has not happened to me. Cars are getting to complex thats for sure.

[@patrobbromccreanor820]

My wife got Quoted $250 for second hand unit or $790 for new, brought a complete unit off Ebay $44 plus $15 freight, D'oh!

[@lynpatnat]

Brilliant. Empowering the average guy with knowledge. That's the goal. Thanks for the feedback.

[@leighpurser2958]

The number on the module is 518 with no traction control

[@lynpatnat]

Sorry. I din't have any Cross reference except the ones I listed. Sometimes your can get lucky by googling or even looking at eBay listings. When I get home I will see if I can find anything. Even wrecking yards usually know the right numbers that fit

[@jasonedwards333]

Had traction control, ABS, Air Bag lights coming up as well as thermo fans always running and air con not working. Done some research here and changed ABS unit with same type. All fault lights have cleared but thermo fans are still always running and air con still not working. Do I need to reset any faults with a scanner?

[@lynpatnat]

Your can reset the computer but turning off the car. When the car is cold. Disconnect the battery. Turn the key on and push the brake a few times. That discharges the computer. Then reconnect and let it idle for w few minutes. Then go for gentle drive. So it can relearn. If it's still faulty then it's the BCM, computer or a fault circuit. Pulling fuses one by one to work out ... Maybe.

[@Damitracism]

What do you use I keep stripping my heads and can’t get it to sink into the bottom

[@lynpatnat]

I'm assuming you mean the torx bolts. I think it's possible to use a flat bread screw driver to get them out if you need them up. You need to use quality bits so they don't v time out and you need to tap the bit into the head so it's seated properly. Google for getting stuck torx screw out. Maybe even hit the head of the bolt with a punch.

[@mike-ef7yq]

Hi, Do electrical gas pedals have to be re calibrated after 10+ years? My pedal isn't very responsive, its laggy, but when I push it down hard it goes, In my opinion the throttle cable is much better,, My car has been tested at

[@lynpatnat]

I dont know anything about electric Gas peddles but you could see if there is some way of resetting the computer to a original factory setting. Sadly the newer the car the harder it gets to work on them yourself.

[@jonnyfromtheblock1]

Try find a throttle controller to take dead spot out of the pedal.​@@lynpatnat

[@lynpatnat]

@@jonnyfromtheblock1 You could clean the throttle body and then disconnect the battery for a while. Pump the brake so the lights come on turn on the key etc all just to fully flatten any residual current in the system and then connect it back and let the car relearn the system. These are a dumb system so they can be reset like that. Except things like ABS and other safely systems .

[@bobskibruno]

Hey mate, I took the abs module off and the probes under it are rusty/corroded. Could this be causing a problem aswell? Can I sand it back to bare metal so it's good again?

[@lynpatnat]

I have no idea. The could just vibrate when they work. That is the pulsing but if they are corroded you would have to assume water has got in. If you can get a replacement I would swap out out. You should be able to get one from a wreck on Gumtree or marketplace for $50. Get the right numbers as explained.

[@bobskibruno]

@@lynpatnat legend thankyou

[@bobskibruno]

@@lynpatnat by the probes I mean the metal rods that stick out of the unit itself, how hard is it to replace the whole unit?

[@lynpatnat]

@@bobskibruno I have never changed the whole unit. I have read that of you do then make sure you bleed all the air out before you connect it or else it will cause the abs light and traction control light to go on. Google "traction and abs light brake bleed commodore vy" you will find a forum that has information. The process of checking out would not be hard. Then don't tighten the pipe nuts until you bleed each one out. Then bleed the wheels. So all this with the battery disconnected so the computer does not know. When is all air free connect the battery. Cross your fingers too. That is how I would do it but I have not done it so I don't know. I have heard you can find some gravel and brake hard on it to cause the abs to activate and that sometimes moves the air out of the valve body then rebleed the brakes. It sounds like it may be possible but I have so far been lucky and never had to change the whole valve body. You can tell if your abs is working by braking hard on gravel. It will pulse under your foot on the brake pedal. If it's not working you won't feel that.

[@bobskibruno]

@@lynpatnat holy shit that sounds like a mission and a half 😅 will have to see not what I wanted to happen

[@craigmiddlemiss6917]

have had alot of mechanics talking absolute shit about bleeding the brakes changing the brake fluid ive had mechanics quoting me 1000s to do this i have alot thats got to be fixed on my car but i refuse to take it to any mechanic

[@lynpatnat]

I used to be a mechanic back in the day. There are some great ones out there still but sadly many are not able to think of the underlying reason that there is a fault. The scanner won't tell you everything you need to understand why and how the codes can be set. I once fixed a friend's car in Germany. No one could work out the fault as it did not show up on the scanner. It turned out to be a corroded plug to the fuel pump. It just needed cleaning and sealing to fix it. They were overthinking the problem instead of elimination of the obvious. Sometimes just swapping a suspect item if you have a known good spare one can eliminate or repair. It's maybe a dumb way to do it but it's often easy. The rule of thumb is off your find a good mechanic then keep with him. Cheers

[@inkman88]

Should I disconnect battery first?

[@lynpatnat]

Yes. It's always a wise move to disconnect the battery. Make sure you know your radio code before doing it if it's still the original unit. You could probably do this without disconnecting but the best thing about disconnecting is the computer is relatively dumb. It will reset most variables like fuel mixture etc so it gets to relearn. It won't forget safely items like air bag lights though. Rule of thumb is to disconnect the battery.

[@inkman88]

Thanx bud. Attempting today, just want to lift it enough to get my phone under to get the number before actually removing it

[@lynpatnat]

Take your time. It's not a hard job. I'm not sure if you can read the number without taking it off. You could take it off. Get the number. Then put it back on so it's still drivable while you wait for the parts to arrive. Check eBay. Wreckers often list the numbers when be selling the ABS unit but it will take a couple if weeks to arrive. You can take it off and it out back on in less than an hour but give yourself a couple of hours. Take care of the solenoid springs when threading it back in. They are easy to catch on things. It's a straight forward job. Tell us how you get on.

[@inkman88]

Mate I've undone everything and the bottom plug has come off, I'm in the process of undoing the torx but the unit is still solid in the cradle... Won't move a millimetre and I don't won't to damage anything, I can get it rocking a little bit still feels like something is holding it.

[@lynpatnat]

The only things holding it are what I show in the video. If you have removed all those it should drop out. I will go have a quick look under the bonnet of our car.

[@CruisinCaprice]

Anyone want to buy a wk caprice?? 😅 fooking over these stupid Holden issues 😂

[@philb2334]

Sorry but that's not a repair, it's a part replacement

[@schmittza]

The video is titled replacement

[@adz3879]

Good try Phil...