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I would suggest trying a N95 masks, if you smell the odor, switch to an OSHA approved respirator and have a professional fit it for you. This will keep the odors away.

The best way to do this is to set up a plastic tent around the site and attach a HEPA air scrubber to filter out the dust and paint fumes

yes you can

It’s okay to apply latex paint over oil-based primer or paint. If you are going to paint oil-based paint over latex I would apply a primer first.

@@HDFPainting thanks -much appreciated

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You're annoying. Eye protection? I'll bet you're triple vaccinated.

I would suggest you hand sand the high gloss ceiling with 320 or 220 grit sandpaper, vacuum and tack it clean and then apply on thin coat of swedish putty over the entire ceiling to maintain consistency.

Nope

I can help you my friend.

@@DMZRPG I’m only intimidated by the subject of my project, I want to wine Hollanlac a mahogany casket. I fell like I should hire a certified pro but the estimate price was more that the coffin. The paint store should tell you this is paint for a seasoned professional.. before I spent the big dollars for the prep, primer, paint an all the supplies. I think I need to buy a spraying system and an exhausted painting tent next. I know a speck of dust is your enemy. I’m in over my head or maybe 6 feet under

I don't have experience on boat hull work, and my thought is that oil primer under oil topcoat is a better choice

@@HDFPainting thanks, makes sense

The tiny bubbles are frustrating, so we feel your pain. Unfortunately, there are multiple potential causes for the bubbling. A process of elimination usually works best in troubleshooting this kind of issue. Make sure that: -The temperature and humidity in the room that the door is being painted in are within the manufacturer's recommendation -There is nothing on the surface of the door that could be causing the problem. Make sure that you sand the surface entirely, and that the door was properly sealed, and primed. -Make sure that you allow the primer to cure appropriately -Strain the product -Apply the finish in thin layers, allowing for cure time in between coats, with a clean (preferably new brush). If you are going to thin the paint before application, do not exceed 15% thinner and only use fine paints of europe mineral spirits. -Make sure the door is left to dry in a dust-free environment -Spraying this product requires a uniquely high level of skill and patience so that's not something I am inclined to recommend unless you have experience spraying oil-based finishes. -if the bubbles remain after you have tried all of this, you could try sanding the entire surface with 600, 800, and then 1200 grit paper to cut the bubbles. Then using boiled linseed oil and an electric buffer (sheep's wool works well) to polish the surface. This is not a typically recommended solution, but it will give you a finish that a lot of people would be happy with without having to shell out for a professional. - if all else fails, and you are at your wit's end, hire a Fine Paints of Europe Certified Painter and you will be much happier with the results.

So I have done everything u mentioned. This will be the 4th time I have sanded but not with 600 or 1200 grit. I call FPE and they told me to use boiled linseed in the paint so I did that but didn’t buff with linseed. What do u mean by straining the paint? Pour it in another can when adding thinner? My husband and I painted a practice piece of wood and the bubbles didn’t disappear until we cut the paint by 50% with FPE mineral oil and then it was a lighter color of course

​@robinmorgan3269 hello, I may have a solution to your problem. "straining" the paint means is passing the paint through a mesh paint strainer/funnel. Around 100 microns should be good. But I don't think that's your issue. Reason I can say that is becuase I'm assuming the bubbles are consistently and uniformly spread out throughout the door correct? If so and you're not just getting bubbles in different small local areas, you can rule out dust and things of that nature (hence strainer). That being said, you're now left with a few other things. By the way you confidently speak, I would also assume you mixed the paint + additives properly without any contamination of your mix due to oil/silicon or other any chemical from outside/unknown source. This leads me to my conclusion. I believe is the result of the paint drying and flashing off too fast. I haven't used this brand before so I don't know what type of retarder they have for it. But you need to slow down the drying. Once it flashes off and develops a skin, it's still trying to off-gas through the surface. The surface even though a skin, is still fragile enough to be punctured by the gas bubble comming up from underneath. It's drying too fast because of your climate. Humidity+heat. I could be wrong. But I hope this helps.