Mate thank you this issue fixed mine straight away. Honda GX25 fixed. cheers mate you are a legend

In Texas I’m using amasol 20-50 for them 😊

I have a 08 wrangler I’ve bought the panel replacement but I don’t know where it start I want to do it myself but have never don’t everything to this extent

This is the wonder of KZbin! One person figures something out and shares it with the world - I've had the same problem with a mantis tiller and a honda trimmer. You are my personal hero for the day! Thanks for figuring it out and sharing the solution!

You sir, are a life saver! Thanks for making this video. I didn't even think of the fuel line being the cause. I was leaning more towards a carby issue. But this was it. I cut that plastic sleeve off which had gone hard and also noticed it was squished where it goes into the tank, the rubber around it had compressed it also. Mine is about 5 years old.

I use 20w50 motorcycle oil. Tennessee summers, working great

Great video series. Thanks for taking the time. I just bought a new (to me) X300R with the infamous K46. It’s in beautiful shape with only 150 hours on it. I mow about 1.5 acres and some of it is fairly hilly. I can hear a slight amount of tranny noise going uphill when it gets warm. However I don’t feel like there’s any decline in performance. I typically run from 1.5-2 hours at a time. Is some noise from the hydraulics normal with the K46 or am I starting to head for a service like this? Seems early at 153 hours on a pristine machine. It was JD dealer serviced prior to my purchase at 149 hours. My prior green machine was older with gears so this is my first hydro JD. Thanks again for a great video series!

Thank you for much!!!! My graco field paint sprayer - honda gx35 is not bogging down no more. I straighten out the line and ran the engine at full throttle. No low power or did it boggle the engine down. I now have a back up in case my field paint spayer I am using goes down.

Another problem to check is for a partially seized clutch drum, gearbox or the driveshaft as well. I have just received a Chonda GX35 engine today which I am replacing the 22 year old original & had it engine with because it was burning oil due to a scored cylinder, anyhow,I ran the new engine just as an engine without the brush cutter attachment bolted onto it & it kept bogging down at full throttle. Now,I saw rub marks on the new clutch shoes so I am going to run it with the brush cutter attachment tonight before even contemplating touching the carburettor. I think that it's because the clutch shoes are touching the outer housing that it's overloading the engine,it would be the same deal if the clutch drum, driveshaft or the gearbox was partially seized !

Hi, was trying to contact you regarding the x300 transmission. Is that possible?

Bravo buddy you did an awesome job, just picked mine up today. Time to go Ham on it!

I know this is an old thread but thought I would ask as I can’t find where it came from even on the schematic. While tearing about a k46, I found what almost looks like a metal quick connect clip jammed into one of the holes of the center section assembly on the underside once removed from the shaft. Any idea where that clip or whatever it is came from? Almost looks like the number 3 if you get what I am saying. Thanks

Having this exact problem and I will try this fix. Thank you!

Thank you sir! It worked on my GX25 string trimmer.

My lx280 just stopped moving forward reverse and parking brake won’t work. I wonder if it’s the pully? Belt is old but still turning

I changed out the input shaft on my K51A about 4 years ago. I replaced the original oil with Mobil 1 15W-50 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil. I live in South Louisiana (hot!) and this has been working great. Maybe this would not be the best choice up north but has served me well.

Thank you very much. I removed the fuel line sleeve and cut off enough off the fuel line to reach both connection points. I don't use the primer, I use the choke when first starting this trimmer.

shot brother , looking everywhere

No one ever need feel guilty about having extra zip ties hanging around.

Can you please explain how or why my rocket tiller all of a sudden the tines started turning the wrong direction I am stumped shy of tearing it apart.

WOW! Thanks. That's so obvious, and such an easy fix. I really appreciate it. Mine was kinked half shut.

I hàvent tore into mine yet I've only had the tractor two year. I notice a reduce power output first in reverse then the foreward started going. I tryed to reprime then remove all the oil and repeime. I guess it was just a bad trans drom the factor. Its time to bite the bullet and tear it down

Hi! I made the rebuild but when i use the mower the forward end the backward exchanged?! What can be the problem?

Great video thanks a ton!

When you say bogging down can i ask what you mean?

thanks from Minnesota. cleared up my issue!!

Is my new trans belt supposed to be turning when the parking brake is engaged? It drives fine with power so I dont think it is loose. Maybe too tight? Its the right size.

Thanks for this. I've been dealing with this for 7 years. Going to go take a look.

Can anyone tell me what size engine drive pully originally came with these tillers? The one I got for free, had no engine. When I put a 5hp engine on, I used a single groove pully 3.5" diameter 3/4" bore with a 1/2 or even larger belt groove (maybe for 5L belt??) An 84310 1/2" vbelt drops down into the groove, does not align with the pully outer edge. Which means it is more like a 3" pully for that belt. The belt I put on that worked with that pully is 84310. Reason I ask is pully diameter changes speed of tiller and torque to the gearbox. It tills ok AFAIK. I also reverified my Ariens gearbox pully has 3 belt grooves and the outmost one (one close to engine) for reverse is FLAT, and the other 2 have different diameters for different speeds, meaning the machine could not run 2 forward drive belts at the same time.

Thank you for taking the time to share this issue unlinked the fuel line and away she went👍

At the 7 min mark you should have been able to get away with just remove both tie rods from steering sector

Can’t wait to see if this is my issue

I have an Ariens Rocket similar to yours. The twin pulley is used for different drive speeds. You move the drive belt to a different groove. At least on mine, the driven pully on the gear box if you look has a different diameter, so it still uses one belt for forward and one for reverse. The reverse on mine, it does not have an engine with a second shaft. the reverse belt engine pulley is bolted to a fixed arm attached to the Briggs engine with a single large bolt. The arm can move to tighten or loosen the reverse belt tension (pivots on that large bolt). That pulley runs on the reverse side of the belt. A lower movable pulley moves in against the reverse belt when the long forward reverse rod is pulled back by a user. The driven pully on the gear box, the reverse belt runs on the flat side of the reverse belt. I picked my tiller up on the side of the road minus its engine. The aluminum gear case was cracked in half. I welded (aluminum brazed) the case back together, it's the weakest link in these old tillers. I recently ran mine to till the garden, and it worked fine. The old 5 hp Briggs engine had a rusted out tank that you can not buy, and it's an awful design with an internal fuel bowl. I adapted an H35 Tecumseh carb to the motor block. I used the plastic angle changer for the Briggs governor rods off the old carb governor linkage bolted to a small flat plate and that attaches to the intake manifold lower bolt and right side carb to intake manifold bolt. The Briggs block had 3 bolts holes and was larger where the carb mounts, and so had room for anther drilled hole to mount the Tecumseh intake manifold. I had to figure out the right length for the control rods to connect to the governor arm and throttle plate. I cut the rusted tank away from the governor control bracket of the tank and drilled a hole to attach it to the flywheel cover for good support as having only one on the block is not enough. .

I just got an Airens Rocket going. I have a 5 hp. Briggs on it for the time being. I also put a new tire on, and put tubes in both tires. Like you, I had water in the main gear box, and the tines gear boxes were in rough shape as well - the middle gear box had NO oil, and had water and rust in it. I salvaged some “better” tines from a 1990’s Maxim front tine tiller, but, I had to bolt them up to the sides of the existing tines.

Good topic , but too fast taken it apart

thank you, subbed

Thanks, i think this may the the issue I'm having! ill have to check it in the morning!

I have adjusted this and cleaned the carb but under load with full throttle the unit is killing. Any idea on fix? maybe fuel filter dirty?

I just bought a brand new Honda blower, HBB25 and irs bogging out same as you describe. I can't see any fuel line kinks though...

Where. Is. The. Deal. About. The. Drain. Plug. Being. Installed

I ordered this stuff 2 weeks ago and I still haven't received it > Beware Tuff torq sends this stuff via USPS (Snail mail) they told me I would get it on the 15th then the 16th and now the 19th I still have my tractors drive motor out waiting for there oil to arrive. I must live in a geographical oddity I am 2 weeks from everywhere! I am so displeased at buying from them right now. I personally could have and should have drove there to get it I would have been home by now! So just beware order way in advance!

My issue on bogging was the feed line in the tank. This line is supposed to pick up fuel from the lower parts of the tank. This line had deteriorated and was sucking air when the carb was at high throttle. I replaced this tube and the bogging resolved.

Number of the belt please

That really worked, thank you! Probably don't have to throw this thing away after all 😅

Thank you !!! after two years of putting up with half assed performance , your trick fixed it 100% Ha have a great day !!

I finally got mine all back together just a few minutes ago and yes, it was quite a trying job but thanks to watching the videos over and over, pausing, backing up, moving forward I do believe it is now together the right way. I just have to put the double pin back into the lever on the outside of the case and now wait for pretty nice dry day and time to stick it back up into the mower. This time I am using the 5w50 synthetic Castrol Edge from NAPA. I found nothing bad inside of the tranny, just two little parts that needed some sanding as all gears, motor, pump all look very good yet. Mower has 395 hours on it.

good on you two- congrats

The real problem is that the filter has to be cleaned or replaced. The magnets (2 ) have to be cleaned. And last but not least, you have two separate chambers to fill with oil and it still has to be filled from the top.

Do you know what the replacement Tines are for the RT7020? 10”, 12”? Part number? Cross reference to MTD, etc…..

If someone wants to prolong the life of the pulley bearings, they can be serviced. I remove the pulley and from the top side, use a sharp pick to pull up the seal. Have to be gentle with it. I clean dirt out with compressed air and some spray, then pack bearing with high grade high temp wheel grease. Then place seal on top of grease and seal will snap back in place.