Thanks! it was a fun project. I'm running ISO 32 hydraulic oil in my headstock. I think the last gallon I purchased was around $20 USD or so. I agree that it appears to be too thin but that's what EMCO recommended. Could 30W motor oil be used? - probably. I just haven't tested it out.

@@roddyworkshop4454 30W is quite thick so I dont think so but the real issue in using motor oil is they have detergents in them which causes foaming in headstocks but the real problem is in a car you want any particles to stay in suspension so it can be filtered out but in a headstock you want the particles to fall to the bottom as there is no filtering. Thats my understanding anyway

Hey Slim, I believe the previous owner used it as some sort of depth stop for the milling head. I haven’t actually tested it out myself, but it seems like it would work if properly tightened. I thought it was pretty creative which is why I haven’t removed it

@@roddyworkshop4454 Ok thanks Rod. I thought it might be for squaring the mill vice to the column.

I appreciate the support, thank you

kzbin.info/www/bejne/a2PMkGl3mNBjnJo

never mind the guy sold it out from underneath me this morning bummed to say the least

@@johnb2044 Sorry to hear that. I've had that happen to me and it's very annoying!

Because the bearings are an upgrade from the bronze bushings

@@roddyworkshop4454 as far as I know those bronze bearings allow way higher loads. But of course it is up to you. I am considering buying the same machine, how do you like it overall in terms of accuracy, runouts, backlashes? I heard they are great quality, but a little worried about buying such an old machine, scary to get a worn bed, I heard it is not hardened. They are also very expensive.

@@dimsum5567 There isn't much load on the bronze bushings to begin with. The main spindle has tapered rolling bearings which take the load. I've since sold the maximat 7 and now use my maximat v10. The beds are not flamed hardened by they are hard beds. Cant remember the exact hardness but it's in the manual. Accuracy is great and backlash can be taken up with the bolts on the hand wheels. They are high quality, precision machines and definitely worth the investment in my opinion

@@roddyworkshop4454 thanks for replying, what would you consider to b a reasonable price to pay for a clean maximat 7 these days?

@@dimsum5567 it really depends on where you on in the world. I paid $1,500 for both my 7 and v10, but they both come with a lot of accessories and milling attachments

They're great machines! I hope yours treats you well

@@roddyworkshop4454 Its the lathe I've always wanted, I bought it off a friend who was going blind so I know its background. Mine doesn't have the mill which in hindsight I'm quite happy with having got a separate one. Great to see these older machines being looked after, thank you for sharing your work

@@campbellmorrison8540 I got very lucky when this popped up for sale. The previous owner was a retiring machinist who rarely used it, but took great care of it when he did. I also have a separate mill and agree that it’s much easier to use that instead of the one attached to the lathe. Thanks for the support!

Also have a V10 now but no quick change gearbox noise. If you watch a couple of my other videos, I was able to fix the noise in my headstock in the Maximat 7 by replacing the bronze bushings with bearings. That's still a project I intend to do on my V10

Thanks! Always fun using the machine to fix the machine

Thank you! Im lucky that the previous owner purchased them

Thank you!

Thanks! I’ll send you a drawing I have on Instagram. Unfortunately, I don’t believe anyone is producing these commercially

I appreciate the support! These are definitely rare machines and glad to know you have one as well. More videos on the way, stay tuned!

The backing plate for my imperial lathe is 1.5x8 TPI. I believe the metric lathes use M39x4. Hope that helps

It’s a cheap 3inch vise from eBay. Nothing fancy but it does the job. www.ebay.com/itm/3-Milling-Machine-Lockdown-Vise-Swivel-Base-Clamping-Vise-Drilling-Milling-/143112147965?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

I used an OXA tool post on the maximat 7. Fit perfect with no modification needed

@@roddyworkshop4454 ok thanks.

Hello, collets are much more accurate/hold tighter tolerances than 3 jaws. Depending on the size of the work piece, set up time is about the same for each

Thank you and glad my video could help!

Thank you!

I appreciate it! They seem to be a common issue. I hope you're able to get yours taken care of!

They're very similar. Couldn't agree more - great machines

Unfortunately, they are different forks entirely and are not interchangeable

Thanks again! I didn't even think about 3D printing one, that would have saved me a lot of time. 5 years is very impressive. Yours will probably last a lifetime too if you shift gently. I wasn't sure the best way to make mine but the hacksaw method worked for me!

Is the model to 3d print the fork available somewhere? Just got a Emcomat 7 with the same broken fork, would love to print a replacement.

Hello, would there be any chance to print out a set and sell it? I have the same issue but if you already have tested the replacement part, it would be much easier for me to buy it. Thank you

@@MikeJD Hi Mike, No problems to send either the file to print by yourself or I could look if I have a spare one in my stock. But I only did the big fork (front right side). The small one is still working. It is up to you. Greetings, Kai

⁠@kaihuck6641 Hello, I am dealing with a broken selector (the large one) and was wondering about a 3D printed option myself. Are you able to provide me with the printing file? Or would you be willing to make and sell one? Thank you!

I'm glad this helped you and thanks for watching! It took me a while to track down my noise problem. My Maximat 7 had been sitting in a shed for probably 20 years before I acquired it. It's condition was a little rough but it clean up nicely. I'd like to hear more about your switch setup! The previous owner of my Maximat v10 rewired the buttons and put all the switches in an external box, about the size of a shoe box. I don't really like it and I am thinking about doing something similar to what you did. Here are the links to the bearings I used. I didn't spend a lot of money on them because I didn't know if they would work. I would buy higher quality bearings if I did this project again. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z8XPXD2/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_image_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086CYRBSZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@roddyworkshop4454 No Problems, it was an easy jop after I understood the wiring. I could post or send you somewhere the links of the switches ,the wiring and pics of the results.

@@kaihuck6641 thanks for tagging me on Instagram! Your set up looks great. Looks like it came from the factory like that! Electronics are my weak area, so I need to catch up so I can do something similar. What did you do with the motor capacitors?

@@roddyworkshop4454 No capacitor. My machine works with 3 phases. I do not know where you are located. But in Germany you have 3 phases with 400 V. A capacitor you need only if you use 1 Phase with 220 V. If you are in US you have 230V with 3 phases and 110V on 1 phase. Could you send me a pic of the identification plate of you motor I could tell you what kind of motor you have.

@@kaihuck6641 I appreciate the explanation, I learned something new! I wasn’t aware that 3 phase motors don’t need a capacitor. Again, my knowledge of electronic is very little. I am in the US and I have a single phase, 115v motor. If I redo the switches then I’ll just keep the capacitors

It’s a great upgrade! Thanks for watching

I appreciate it! The vise is a 3 inch vise from eBay for around $60 USD. I haven’t had any issues with it so far. Best of luck! www.ebay.com/itm/3-Milling-Machine-Lockdown-Vise-Swivel-Base-Clamping-Vise-Drilling-Milling-/143112147965?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Glad you enjoyed it! I was extremely happy with how much this reduced the headstock noise. The lexan cover was supposed to be a temporary thing, but I enjoyed seeing the inner workings of the headstock in action!

Really appreciate it! It's definitely not going to win any awards but I had a blast making it. Hopefully the 20x sped up video made sense. Take care!

Much appreciated, as always! I've enjoyed watching your progress on the Bantam. Hope you guys across the pond are doing well!

They're definitely an economically friendly option. I'm sure I'm losing some precision but for the little bit of hobby work I do, I think I can get by for now. Thanks for passing on Doubleboost's channel, I've seen a couple others with a similar set up. Might be something worth pursuing in the future. I appreciate the support as always! I've found it much easier to just film the work as it's being done and do the editing and talking after. Take care

Either a kidney or winning the lottery, but the Multifix looks to be quite the tool post! I've watched some videos about it and I'm definitely jealous that you have one. Makes me wonder how bad the knock off versions really are, since I'm already using a knock off of the Aloris brand

@@roddyworkshop4454 Since it is illegal to sell any of your internal organs in the UK, I shall have to hope for a lottery win! I think that the Chinese copies of the Aloris tool posts are good, judging by the amount of people using them. I bought Chinese copy holders for my Dixon tool post because the originals are also very expensive. They are absolutely fine. If it wasn't for far eastern copies of well known tooling, there'd be far fewer hobby machine shops in the world.

@@carlwilson1772 Your logic is spot on and I couldn't agree more! Expanding on what you said - think about all the other SE asian clone style lathes/mills/other misc. machinery that allow for hobbyists to exist. A lot of people hate on them, but they allow for a lot of people to get into the hobby in the first place. I've been through my share of knock off brands, but I was able to learn the entire time I was using them, which is most important. Sure, I could have waited to find the biggest and most precise machine, but I wouldn't have known how to use it if I didn't work my way up. Anyways, I think you get the point. Affordability and patience are key

@@roddyworkshop4454 I agree wholeheartedly. There are those in this country who deride the SE Asian made machines. Though they seem to be in a shrinking minority these days. I also started out with a Chinese made lathe. The truth is now that even in industry many newer manual machines are of SE Asian origin. The two biggest British machine tool makers, Colchester and Harrison, focus on CNC equipment. They still offer built to order manual machines - with a price that reflects their one off nature.

@@carlwilson1772 Same as in the US, and I'll agree that some of the clones are made poorer than others, but I can't completely knock the entire market because of that. I'm not too familiar with the big industry brands in the US, but I think Haas is a common CNC name. Either way, I'm willing to bet that the newer machines over here are also majority imports.

I appreciate it!

I believe you are correct and the forks are zamak (I also think thats the same as mazak). Unfortunately they are a weak point and a pain when they give out, but a fun project either way. I appreciate the support as always!

Thanks, Dean! Once I get a vise for the v10, I'm thinking about letting the 7 go. Glad I had it for this project though. Here's to hoping the other fork doesn't break!

I was pleasantly surprised to hear that chattering noise go away and have this little experiment be successful. I really appreciate the support, I have a couple more ideas for some future vids!

I was also very happy with the results of this! Hard to say if I'm the first to do this, but maybe the first to make a youtube video about it? Either way, I hope it benefits/inspires some people, much like others' youtube videos have done to me. Probably should have included the bearing info in the description, but below are the amazon (US) links to the parts. I couldn't justify investing a bunch of money in bearings for this experiment, but if I do this again then I will probably spend a little bit more money and get some higher quality bearings. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z8XPXD2/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_image_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086CYRBSZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@roddyworkshop4454 thanks for replying with the specs. It's a great modification.

@@roddyworkshop4454 Is "12x18x12mm" the correct Dim on the Needle Roller Bearing? Cheers, Jesper

Thank you! It was a fun little project that, so far, is working great. You are spot on - these machines are extremely hard to come by in the US, at least near me. Harrison lathes are quite beefy! If I had more space then I would love to upgrade to bigger machine. As always, I appreciate the support and will try to make decent videos.

@@roddyworkshop4454 I'm glad your modification is working well. I look forward to your next film!

I appreciate the support and glad to hear you liked the idea! I wasn't sure if switching to bearings would make any difference, but so far the headstock noise I was hearing has almost disappeared. I'll try to remember to through in a before and after clip in the next video. I'm still learning how to do all the filming/editing as well, but thank you!

@@roddyworkshop4454 good news that the noise has reduced. I imagine that the bushes on my 7 were probably worn too. These are quite old machines now, my Maximat V10P is a 1973, as old as I am.

@@retromechanicalengineer It doesn't surprise me that they were worn, especially on the pulley side. Mine was made in 1968, so it's about 25 years older than I am!