Hi, Chris, yes, those photographs were captured with the 5D Mark III, it was a test shoot I did a few years back. It's definitely more challenging for a fast moving subjects. Whilst it takes a bit getting used to how a mirrorless camera operates, which is different from the conventional DSLR for focusing, it's very good at tracking. There is a mode in the R8 to set it to people or pets, etc.

I think one of the things for me as a deal breaker is that the R7 is a cropped sensor, whereas, the R8 is a full frame sensor. Whilst I'm more than capable of using a cropped sensor camera, for when it comes to my professional work, I just much rather have the full frame. Things really all depend what you intend to use the camera for and for me personally, I didn't have much of an issue over battery life. In fact, having used the R8 numerous times, I've managed to get things done without much of a problem and I have spare batteries I keep on me anyway. The one advantage the R7 seems to have is the 32 megapixels, but that doesn't necessarily mean a camera outputs better quality photographs. Truth is, large images like that are for those who wish to get photographs printed and at large format. I've had my 5D Mark III for years and I can honestly tell you at about 22 megapixels, you could blow a photograph up to A1 size and you'll get amazing results. You would struggle to notice any difference, you would have to go up close and get a magnifying glass to measure between a 32 megapixel natural to 22 megapixel. How often are people wanting to print something at A1 size anyhow? Rarely and that is expensive. So first ask yourself: _"What will I use it for?"_ The R8 being a full-frame body, you can stick whatever focal length lens like for example a 24-70mm and that is roughly what you'll get. A cropped sensor, you may be forced to get a focal length down to get the equivalent, for example, to achieve 50mm you'd have to get a 35mm, or to get an 85mm, you'd have to get a 50mm lens, so on. I always take around with me spare SD cards and I really don't recall having issues with SD cards. So that's my take on it. The R8 is a brilliant camera and I don't just say that, the fact it was that price for a full-frame camera that more or less does pretty much what the more expensive Canon R6II does is pretty impressive. All-in-all, the R8 for me given that pet photography is what I'll be doing is a big thing, it just takes a bit getting used to the autofocus, but that's more of an issue with me as I had switched from DSLR to mirrorless.

To clear the confusion, I'm Scottish and Scots language was formed around the same time as the English language as a whole. Scots language arguably conserved much of old English, which is why Scots is probably closer to old English compared with modern English the way people speak today. Scots is influenced from a variety of language / dialects, such as; Scandinavian, Doric, Scottish Gaelic (Gàidhlig) and last but not least, Anglo-Saxon. It is why I say _"mer"_ for _"more"_ or _"maste"_ for _"most"_. Believe it or not, in that video I'm speaking more proper compared with how I usually speak.

Absolutely, I completely agree to that, for anything I've been out doing, I have certainly not had an issue with. It is certainly more than capable of getting a job done and I always have my 5D Mark III there as well. The autofocus is fantastic, it's really just a case that if someone is new to mirrorless it takes a bit getting used to. As for dual slots, yeah, I can comprehend, in all honesty though, I can't really think of a time an SD card failed on me. It's not common, but I do understand the argument people make on that. It's a great camera, it really is.

Yeah, the thing is, if I were to use it for video purposes, I would use an external microphone anyway. As a photographer, my main goal is photographing subjects, so it was never a big issue to me over that. But you are right, it's pretty decent sound for what it is on board.

Same. I’m not much of a videographer either

Yes, indeed, in fact, I pretty much set the camera up to do this myself. I have the star buttom customised for eye autofocus and I setup the AF-ON button similar but for general subjects. Admittedly so, the camera is taking me a while to get used to relative to autofocus technology, that's only natural though, that's more to do with me that is the problem because this is my first mirrorless camera and going from the 5D Mark III takes a good bit getting used to the autofocus technology.

@@scottcjmckelviephotography Thank you, yes, I'm coming from Nikon D810, great camera but looking at reducing weight. I use 5:4 aspect ratio on the D810 (30mb file), which Nikon now do not cater to, but Cannon have 4:3 which is close enough. Eye auto focus seems interesting! I only use the EVF. What else about mirrorless would I need to get used to as you and I use similar previous systems?

Yeah, I can see where you're coming from, this camera is dead (really) lightweight compared to my 5D Mark III and admittedly so, the 5D Mark III you couldn't hold up with one hand for lengthy periods unless someone were strong enough. I still love my 5D Mark III and for 22mb/s it's still a great camera. What you'll need to adjust to, Dan, is the fact it's not like the DSLR where you push the back button if using AI Servo (or whatever it maybe called on Nikon) and then focusing to recompose, instead, you really have to set it up so that when you press the focus button, it locks on itself and then you can move the camera to recompose. I set the star button as stated to eye autofocus, if you are aware of David Bergman on Adorama, he did a video on the autofocus, this is the video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYu7haFnnpd0Z5Y Highly recommend to watch as he not only explains but shows you how to setup the 2 buttons. That way with mirrorless you'll be able to switch between eye autofocus and the one without. Be aware though, it will take time getting used to it, I've found that myself.

@@scottcjmckelviephotography Wow! ok, thanks, very interesting re focus locking on and no recomposing needed, I get that. Thanks for the link, I'll check that out. So an interesting new system to practice into everyday handling but takes time. Appreciate your help.

Not a problem. Don't get me wrong, regarding focusing, I think you still recompose, but it's a different way around things. The autofocus locks on, but yeah, just takes a wee bit getting used to. Absolutely, Dan, I can account for this when I did a waterfall shoot last month, it is definitely different, but it's like I say, it's more a problem with me being new to it all rather than the camera autofocusing.

Interesting, I'm not entirely sure if there is a record time limit with the G7X Mark II purely because I've never used it that extensively. Have you checked the size of your card, storage? I just researched and it says as follows: _"Recording Limits. The Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark II has a maximum video recording time of 1 hour or file size limit of 4GB"_ That may be the reason why if you've gone beyond that limit. Sometimes it's best to record in snippets when you come across that issue.

Good question, Lexi, I had to look that up for you as this is my first mirrorless camera and having tested that, no, it doesn't allow you to. Saying that, if you need to capture fast moving subjects anyway, flash itself is powerful enough for that, especially outdoor photography which you can use HSS (High Speed Sync).

Hi Leo, trust me, as an owner of the Canon EOS 5D Mark III and have been since 2015 and given the fact I had to get a LOT of A3 prints done for all my college projects during my study in photography, the A3 prints were put towards my portfolio. The prints turned out brilliant relative to quality. Bearing in mind, certain print places provide better quality print paper and overall quality of prints. Nonetheless, any prints I got done, they looked fantastic. Remember this, the 5D Mark III is a 20 megapixel camera and has been used professionally for years. Likewise, I even had an A1 size print done, again, the quality of it was fantastic. The only way you'd ever tell a difference is if you looked VERY close up whilst sitting it side by side to the same print shot on a larger megapixel camera and it's barely noticeable, it's like, who views prints with their face right up to it? Nobody. The real advantage a larger megapixel camera has is more room to crop, but if you're like me anyhow and aim to get as much right as possible in camera first, you don't have much to worry about. The Canon EOS R8 has a 24 megapixel sensor, plus, if it seriously bothered me I'd use Topaz Gigapixel, but in all honesty, it's no big deal and I state this from experience because I've got MANY A3 prints done and some A1 prints and they look great. If that's what I can achieve with a 20 megapixel camera, you'll get really good results with the 24 megapixel sensor Canon EOS R8. Anybody who tells you otherwise are going into the extremes. I see this all over KZbin where they make such minor issues sound like a big thing, for example; obsession over sharpness. Think about it this way, my photographs were put up along with all the other students in a gallery like display for the public to visit and most people just glance and they don't even go right close up either. Keep all those things in mind. Whilst I'm not trying to sell you on this particular camera, what I am doing is, I'm cutting straight past all the bull that other people may try and feed you. The only fault I could pick in the camera is a fault of my own and not the camera itself, that being how the autofocus works in a mirrorless camera compared with how I would back button focus on my 5D Mark III, that takes a bit getting used to, but that's because this is my first mirrorless. So all in all, it's a great camera and yes, without question, absolutely. I have an A1 print in my living room that looks fantastic and that was a composite all shot with my 5D Mark III and blown up to A1. I hope that helps you.

@@scottcjmckelviephotography one more question and i know my decision! Eos R8, or Eos R7?

​@@Leonard1102 for me personally, and I've heard the R7 is a cropped sensor body, that for me is a no-go, not that there is anything wrong with that, I have a Canon EOS 70D and I ideally wanted to get a second full-frame camera. A full-frame camera is a lot more flexible, in my opinion. When you have a cropped sensor, in order to get a specific focal length, you have to use wider, so as an example, if you put an 85mm lens on the R7 you'd get a focal length probably over 100mm to about 120mm, so to get 85mm equivalent you'd probably have to use a 50mm lens. With full-frame without all the technicalities, you get at least what is, which is why with the 24-70mm lens, I can zoom out to 24mm and go about my business knowing that is 24mm. The Canon EOS R7 is probably a great camera as well, which I never looked too much into, I may have saw one or two reviews on that particular camera. I knew that with the Canon EOS R8 I was getting the body of an RP in frame factor, but the inner workings of the Canon EOS R6 Mark II and given that is about a thousand £'s dearer, that impressed me. Without IBIS is no big deal, any faults with the camera as I say has not been down to the camera, but myself. It takes time adjusting from a DSLR to mirrorless just because of how it autofocuses, at least for my experience going from the 5D Mark III to the EOS R8. I suppose you may wish to sit and ponder over what type of photography you'd be using the camera for as well, with cropped sensor, it's a wee bit of a pain having to stop down a lens relative to focal length just to get the equivalent. A cropped sensor would have the advantage in some respect if shooting wildlife for distant subjects.

@@scottcjmckelviephotography see… very hard to choose:/…. I sant daily, ofc, people moving fast, maybe cars… a bit of wildlife here in the city but not that much! I just want to be super sharp when i print in A2 or A3, and that the autofocus works perf

Well, I can certainly assure you that even for A3 prints I've had done and the few A1 prints the quality has been fantastic. Obviously there would be a difference between a 50 megapixel camera, but such detail is only ever noticeable if you go looking for it. One must bear in mind, it's a £1500 camera and you'll get impressive results out of it. Like I say, given that I have Topaz Gigapixel, it enables me to enlarge a photograph by 2 times or even 4 times the size. I did a test on that with one of my pet shots I did using the EOS R8 and the width of the photograph was about 25,000 megapixels. The A.I. did an unbelievable job using Gigapixel to a point you wouldn't even notice the difference at all between the enlarged image to the smaller. It was that large I tested it in Photoshop scaling down over A1 and it was several times larger. As is though, you're going to achieve great results even blowing an image up to A3 or A2 for prints.

Thank you, I greatly appreciate that. As for the lens, from what I've seen using the 24-70mm f/2.8 II lens, it works just as good on the Canon EOS R8. Obviously for me having my 5D Mark III which is a 20mp camera, I can now shoot 24mp, and the fact that the camera handles low light insanely good, it really is fantastic for handheld photography. If there is one small thing I forgot to add if people are concerned about the 1 SD card slot, I use a wireless SSD MyPassport drive and carry that with me, means that when I do my shoot I can then turn that on, stick the SD card in, press the button and it'll back up to that SSD drive on the go. The only way battery life is really going to be chewed up is if someone is using it for 4K video in heavy use, I imagine 60fps/50fps (depending NTFS or PAL), I've not tested it otherwise on other modes, but for a photographer, the battery life is good, it certainly isn't as bad as some were making it out to be and if one is a photographer they'll see that they'll be able to capture a fair bit from one battery. You'll get impressive results even from EF lenses. Sometimes people go over the top with arguments on sharpness and from photographs I have shot over the number of years I've had the 5D Mark III, and you'll know yourself, you'll get great results. As for video? It's mind-blowing mate, it is, again, the fact you can shoot 4K video and achieve impressive results in low light is certainly a big plus, and for someone like me, if I do decide to shoot video, it's short burst clips kind of like what you saw from this video I did. For the price, remember, it's impressive.

I do appreciate it Maximilian, you're right, I saw a fair few critiques about things like the battery life, SD card and no IBIS, the thing is, you take for instance pet photography, ideally you're not going to have the camera on all the time, you do shoots from different parts, and even then, if one were to shoot the whole day, they could get a fair amount out of it photography wise and have spare batteries. The way people were speaking about the battery life made it sound worse than it actually is. The two shoots I done there I managed okay. As for the overheating, yeah, I don't think I'd ever run into that problem, then again, I've no intention of shooting long video like that, I have my Sony FDR AX100 for that, but for shooting professional type short stills to create a longer video, you can get impressive results from the Canon EOS R8 and given it's lowlight capability, it's blew me away. And the one thing I can say is that I come from a place of experience. Don't get me wrong, if someone wishes to go and do timelapse photography for a lengthy period, that's something I would really need to test. But I barely if ever do so and have my 5D Mark III for that. Also, you will have noticed (or may not have,) me putting the battery into the EOS R8 whilst it was sitting on the tripod. So long as you have a reasonable size plate, you've got the room to do so. I may do a video on that and a few other things shortly. I love this camera, the fact it handles lowlight so well and has unbelievable autofocus is part of the beauty of it, and you have to remember, for that price point its fantastic. And like I've mentioned before, think about the scenarios, how often you going to shoot at a slower shutter speed, creative use maybe? Landscape photography? Well, the tripod eliminates that option, so I can only think about people shooting video, but it's like I say, you can take professional video using a tripod and even seen people using it walking about with and it's really not that bad. And that's no problem at all bud, I'm pretty sure you'll enjoy using the camera as much as I have thus far and one other thing I must mention, I've been able to hold that camera with my 100mm IS macro lens on it and unlike my 5D Mark III that is quite heavy, I wouldn't be able to do that the same, I was able to achieve that whilst using my speedlight in my other hand, so that tells you just how light the camera is. Getting spare batteries is worthwhile and not the end of the world changing if need be.

I have never used the Sony A7III, but has been around for a while if I remember correctly? What I can say is that the Canon EOS R8 is meant to have some of the best autofocus technology of any of the cameras out there, so this is a massive plus, especially from experience knowing what it is like photographing wildlife like birds or sporadic moving squirrels, and more importantly anything like pets. So it all depends what you would use it for. I seen that it is also a 24 megapixel sensor camera, so you're getting the same in that respect and the in-body image stabilisation, but I'll be honest with you, being an owner of the 5D Mark III, I don't ever recall it having all that technology and I was completely fine, in fact, you'll get really good results as a photographer if you get or have IS lenses. The other thing to note, if photographing fast moving subjects, would you honestly really need image stabilisation? Unless you're going for some creative pan shot technique, it's doubtful, 9 times out of 10 you'd use a faster shutter speed. And I saw people the setting 'IS (image stabilizer) mode' when walking with video and it's actually pretty decent. Sure enough, it crops the video apparently, but it's not a big deal to me. Given that you said photography, do some research on the autofocus, as others have said it's one of the best for it. I would have shown the autofocus working through a recording, but I don't have one of those things you attach to a camera to do so, but from other videos, the autofocus is outstanding. If you are already a Canon shooter and have Canon lenses, you'll benefit from the R8. What the Sony A7III has, however, is 10fps, which is 4 seconds faster than the R8, but if using electronic, rather than electronic first shutter, you'll get up to 40fps shooting continuous on the R8. If I remember correctly, however, it wouldn't work with the flash, I tested that. So there are a lot of benefits to the Canon EOS R8 in that respect. The other thing to look at is battery life, it's decent, unsure about the Sony A7III, but if you have spare batteries it's not much of an issue. The advantage of the A7III is the obvious dual card slot, but it's like I've stated, I can't recall ever going through one SD card, but I do respect some people's argument that if one card fails, there is always the second card. This is why I carry about with me a MyPassport SSD drive that allows me to back up my work on the go.

Sorry for the late response, this tripod head is rotational so you can pan, although, not useful for video. It can also rotate so you can put your camera into portrait and the stick allows you to twist rotate forward so you can face the camera down as you wish. So yes, it is very handy for that. Very useful for still life photography.

Hi Tina, what you tend to find is that when you zoom in with your focal length, typically lenses that enable you to zoom in and given the Canon G7X Mark II enables you to zoom in using the ring, it stops down the aperture. In other words, if you zoom in the widest open aperture you'll get is probably f/2.8, when zoomed out to the widest focal length the widest open aperture you will get is f/1.8. As for the buttons, well, setting to manual might be a bit advanced and into the deep end when just starting, it's good to practice starting off on 'P' mode which you'll find on the dial at the top of your camera, when in 'P' mode you'll see only one box bottom of the screen as 'P' mode only allows you to manually set ISO. It's useful for practicing with ISO. A higher ISO number introduces more grain noise but more light into the camera, but a lower ISO number improves image quality with less grain noise, but darker. It's useful to play about with in that mode. Then moving onto TV mode which is essentially the mode that enables you to manually set your shutter speed and ISO; the faster the shutter speed you'll notice the darker the exposure, but slower, the brighter. It's useful to practice with that. Indoors when photographing kids moving about you'd typically want a shutter speed fast enough to capture the kids without motion blur, which might be 1/200 or 1/250. Depends and as last resort, increasing ISO if too dark, it's all about experimenting. AV mode is aperture priority mode, that simply means the camera will auto set the shutter speed for you, but you can manually set the ISO and aperture. Aperture being the depth of field. Shallow depth of field for wide open aperture, much like f/1.8 or f/1.2. It's useful for experimenting. M (Manual Mode) is when you gain a bit more experience and you feel comfortable manually adjusting the settings.

@@scottcjmckelviephotography Thank you so much. I shall take everything on board and go slowly. Tina