What are those pressure readings in psi? If you are around 30psi on the low side and depending on ambient temperature around 180psi on high side(for fall weather) then it should be cold. Check the ac lines to see whether the suction side (usually the bigger one) is cold. If so then check the coolant bypass valve near the brake booster.

Sometimes they come with the new part

Crankshaft sensor maybe. But it needs to be diagnosed tbh

Many ways to skin a cat

Check EGR. Also the engine computer goes bad and kills the ignition coils

Hey fuse 19 keep Popping I Put a 15a it Popped in 20 Minutes and The 10a I Tried Popped In 5-10 minutes, What Do Fuse 19 Control ?

@bdm2morro607 are we talking about the same year make and model?

@@Usmanthemecano 2009 sonata v6

@@bdm2morro607 oxygen sensors. One or more is shorted to ground. Check the one near the alternator. It's usually soaked in oil. Check the side of the wiring going towards the PCM ..

@@Usmanthemecano so Once I Replace The Oxygen Sensor and The Fuse 19 Should Stop Popping? cause I'm Getting A Code For All 4 02 Sensors

Water pump on the driver side. Timing belt driven.

@@Usmanthemecano ya I took it apart but the pump is dry. Turns out it’s the tube leaking

Both front... But sometimes only needs calibration. That's done with scan tool

I have that same problem in my 15 tahoe

Sure

It won't slip. No worries

@@Usmanthemecano Isn't there a strong push from the chain/chain guide towards the chain tensioner area once the tensioner is removed? It must be hard to push the guide away to its place in order to install the tensioner again?

​@Usmanthemecano I did it! Thanks to your encouraging video, Usman! No more cold start rattle! Prior to this I replaced the intake camshaft adjuster with two different part numbers, but the rattle persisted. This is what I found very important: I removed the spark plugs so I could turn the crankshaft (CS) easily. I turned the CS clockwise (CW) a few times to observe what is happening with the plunger from the chain tensioner (CT). Of course, while turning the CS CW, the resistance from the valves is felt which is very important. While turning the CS CW, the plunger will go in and out of the CT. At the stage when the plunger is in the most, you can lock it with a pin. You might even want to turn the CS counter-clockwise (CCW) a little bit the ensure that the plunger is well inside the CT. I suggest you use a 2.5mm nail which you will cut so you have a flat end and not pointy. Also, I suggest you bend the other end of the nail and make a loop so you can tie it with a long piece of strong string. This is to prevent the nail from falling out of the link while you're installing the CT. Given the tight working spot, this can easily happen and the nail can end up in the oil pan. This way you can just let the long string just hang out the engine while you're installing the CT. Even better, instead of the nail, use a screw that will fit. The screw has threads which will make it grip better inside the link. Once the nail/screw is in the link locking the CT, keep on turning the CS CW until the chain guide is FURTHEST AWAY from the CT plunger as possible. At this stage you will also feel that it is a bit harder to turn the CS. That is because the valves are providing reisistance. This resistance from the valves is going to help you ensure that the chain and the camshafts are stable enough and won't move while you are working on the CT. Once you reach this point, remove the socket / wrench from the CS. You don't want to bump it accidentally while working on the CT. Or, what just came to my mind, if you are paranoid that the CS might turn (and potentially cause the chain guide to move, or worse - chain to skip!) while you're working on the CT, you can get a very tight fitting wrench on the CS bolt and tie it down in place securely somehow. Now, undo the two 10mm bolts holding the CT. Undo them just a little bit and leave them in. Test that you can move the CT left/right/up/down without any pushback from the chain guide. The CT should be loose. This will just confirm that the CT will have plenty of room to be removed and a new one put in. Please note: your CT might be "baked on" so hard that you'll be under impression that the chain guide is pushing onto it even after you've loosened the two CT bolts! If you feel that this is the case, pry it with a screwdriver a little up/down/left/right. The very first time when I worked on the camshaft adjuster replacement, this was the case. I could not believe how hard the CT was "baked on". The car was 10 years old at that stage. Now that the CT looks loose, remove it and put the new one in. When installing a new CT, be careful not to drop the bolts into the engine. If you like, you can tie a long strong string around their heads. Also, due to lack of visibility, just before you put the new bolts in, get a thin screwdriver and stick it onto the hole where the bolt should go. This way you won't have to "hunt" the hole, but make sure you hold the CT firmly after you find the hole with the screwdriver so it doesn't move while you remove the screwdriver and get the bolt in place. Don't forget to pull the pin. Done!

Long flexible ratcheting box wrench. Go from under the oil pan. Between the subframe and engine

@@jeanettewilliams9832 did you watch the entire video?

That's the easiest one. Go under the car and remove the splash shield

V6

My advice is to take it to a shop before you waste more money

@@Usmanthemecano I would if I wasn't the mechanic lmfaooooo