Those are the ones with walksnail, aren't they? let me do some research in the weekend

You need to cut power. Maybe you can just butcher the power pin of the video receiver.

Or maybe just scratch the board of the receiver near the power, until you cut its path.

What´s up, brother? what switches? Did you power up your vtx without antennas? Do you mean video receiver? About if this is still worth doing still, it depends on you. I like to do this kind of things, so for me yes.

@@generaciondesilicio8087 all of the top right. switches don't work. So I can no longer change channels or record dvr. I was flying with the googles and the battery completely died. It defaulted itself on Fs channel 1. I switched the quad to this channel and no video. I would love to do the mod I just am uncertain if I will still be able to get good results

@@howducksfly9948Did your drone crashed when you got out of battery? Watch your antennas connection in the vtx, they might be disconnected. If that happened, your vtx might be burned, but you can put them in place and try it. Have you connected it to betaflight and checked if your vtx is stucked in pit mode? If you do this mod to your goggles you won´t need those buttons anyway, however, if you don´t want to do the mod and just want to fix it i think of 2 choices, you can just send them to someone who repair electronics (cellphones or tv´s) or just check if the buttons itselves are broken. For the second choice, you will need a multimeter and maybe 3 hands hahaha. You can open the goggles as shown in the first video, put your multimeter in continuity mode, and place one of the tips of the multimeter in one of the pins of the buttons, then, check for continuity on the other 3 pins of the buttons. You should have continuity just in one of those 3 pins. Next, try one of the pins that does not give you continuity and press the button (here is where your extra hand might be needed). When you press the button it should give you continuity. If so, that means your buttons are working correctly and the problem of not switching channels may be that your board is damaged or it is software related. If it is software related, sometimes it helps taking out the battery and leave it that way for some minutes. It will give time to all the sistem to drain the electricity so that your flash memories reset. Then put the battery on again and try your goggles. That´s all I've got with the information you gave me. Please, let me know what happened

Try taking the battery off thing, first. it´s the easiest thing to do.

@@howducksfly9948 Hello, man. Just checking how is it going? Did you tried something? what happened?

Qué tal viejo?! No sé si te pueda ayudar, pero qué panel tienes? me pasas el modelo y trato de investigarle

Muchas gracias, viejo!!! Puedes usar antenas tipo patch para eso. En youtube puedes encontrar bastante información sobre equipo. También te recomiendo que busques grupos de FPV en facebook por si tienes alguna duda o problema al momento de configurar tus drones. Generalmente, a las personas a las que les ha pasado lo mismo, contestan.

Thank you very much dude!! I guess you can solder in the receiver there, but it will be necesary to do it with wires, because I think the order of the pins in the goggles and in the external module are different. Yes, DVR still works.

@@generaciondesilicio8087 got it, thx! Have good day!

@@ВадимОсоченко You too have a good day!! One thing I want to add is that if you put the external module receiver at the top, you will have to butcher the plastic in that place in order for it to fit. I choose to do it in the way I did so every hole could be hidden.

@@generaciondesilicio8087 Thanks I'm thinking about that too... But the module from the side receives a signal from a directional antenna just as well, or can an extension cord be used? Why did you give up step-up? It seems to me that something was wrong with your step-up converter, because the consumption of receivers is a maximum of 0.5A, which is not a problem for 18650 battery

@@ВадимОсоченко I think yes, it receives signal from directional antenna just as well (The binocular type goggles use the modules in the side, so...). I use a 90 degrees sma connector for direccional (pointed to the front) and for omni (pointed up). At he end of the series of videos I started using the dji analog adapter, and it has a really good voltage regulator, so I ended up leaving the battery inside the goggles and use a battery pack for the module.

I cannot certainly tell you, because I don't have an oscilloscope for meassuring latency and this have been my only goggles, so I can't compare distance and so. What I can tell you is that when I first did the modd I was surprised for the better image I got and definitely I have a lot more range (I haven't test its limits). In the other hand, I haven't heard of any damage to the module using this board, it could happen if the voltage regulator fails, and it could happen for those who use it in the dji goggles or in that case in any goggles that use modules because they need a voltage regulator to feed the module. Hope my answer is clear and helps.

It's great thanks for the vid

Hola Leonardo. Muchas gracias! Mira, solo he tenido estos goggles, pero acabo de buscar imágenes de la placa de los recon v2 y al parecer es el mismo receptor, entonces, los pines son los mismos. Sin embargo, en la foto veo que tiene un conector JST-xh de 7 pines con sus respectivos 7 cables a un lado del receptor de video, pero no veo a dónde van. Me imagino que el rojo y el negro van al BMS de los goggles y que es la entrada de energía. Generalmente, el amarillo se usa para video. Si pudieras ver hacia donde va el cable amarillo o revisar con un multímetro si tiene continuidad con el pin de video en el receptor, tal vez podemos encontrar la forma de hacer la modificación sin tener que desoldar el receptor. También veo que tiene unos pines en la parte de arriba del lado de los botones pero no se que es, ni que dicen las etiquetas. Si pudieras revisar por mi, tal vez encontremos una forma más fácil de hacer la modificación.

@@generaciondesilicio8087 eres la mmda mijo. Mira, compré un Rapidfire y busqué unas gafas baratas para empezar, en lo que veo cómo salen las nuevas hdzero de fatshark o el sistema digital con orqa. No las he comprado, pero si dices que es el mismo receptor y tiene los mismos pines, se podría hacer, no? Quizá cortando una trace de la PCB. Veo que es lo mismo con las EV100, y de hecho me iba por esas, pero dicen que el FOV es muy malo y dije, debe haber unas de caja que no sean las ev800d. En resumen, no las tengo, estaba esperando la quincena y tú respuesta jajaja. Pero se juega, no sé si tengas discord, o algún medio para platicar y lo armamos. Increíble tutorial nonetheless!

@@leonardocastaneda904 Muchas gracias!! si quieres me puedes buscar en facebook como joso perezgrovas. Si, si no quieres desoldar todo el receptor, solo tienes que cortarle la vía que va al pin de 5v, si la encuentras jajaja (a veces están en capas intermedias del PCB). Creo que yo no la encontré en los v3. En caso de que no sea el mismo receptor, estoy seguro que también se puede hacer. Ya mañana sale la info de los fatshark.

I think yes, but it was easier for me to use the 1.5mm TRRS connector and just use the converter, it is very cheap. Or is there a reason you prefer the HDMI?

@@generaciondesilicio8087 openHD/ezwifibroadcast use HDMI

Muchas gracias viejo!!! Ahorita estoy editando los videos del siguiente proyecto. Me estoy tardando un poco porque quiero sacarlos todos el mismo mes.

The first cable is a barrel connector for power. It goes from the bottom of the URUAV board to the goggles, because in my first video I extracted the internal battery. If you have this goggles and if you are using this method is better to leave the internal battery, because I was having some noise from buzzer.

@@generaciondesilicio8087 i have fatshark scout but my uruav board still on ship.. i think i just need to plug the av in cable. And use external battery for the uruav.

@@VarNino_Fpv Yes! No need to open your goggles.

@@generaciondesilicio8087 thanx for replying my messages dude... 👍👍

I could not find the trace from video, if you find it you can scratch it carefully just to reveal the copper and solder your wire there, if you don't find it I think there is a resistor or capacitor (I don't remember) at the top of the 5051AM1 that has continuity with the video pad of the receiver. You can also solder your wire there being careful enough so you don't desolder the resistor/capacitor and then, test if it works, if it does, put some hot glue or some liquid isolation tape on it, cause it will be very fragile.

The resistor is the R16 is the one at the top of the R17. It is a very little one at the right of the 5051AM1. Watch the red line at the minute 3:51 of this video and you'll find it. You have to solder your wire in the right side, but I don't know if it will work.

@@generaciondesilicio8087 oh my god I'm definitely gonna try this I didn't think you would respond 😭. I see the resistor but I might hot glue the left side of it just in case it falls off

And the easiest way is this: In front of the video pad you will see a very little hole, carefully scratch the board between the pad and the hole until you find the copper. Solder your wire there and put some hot glue or some liquid isolation tape. After you finish your modd, please tell me how it goes.

@@andyjpolanco Before the resistor, try scratching the board where I told you, I think it is better because it's still the beginning of the line.

Hola, buenas tardes. Muchas gracias. Le gustaría contarme qué necesita?

@@generaciondesilicio8087 Saludos quisiera colocar una entrada av para alimentar la pantalla con señal analógica. Podrías hacerme esta modificacion.No tengo la habilidad

@@Nicogonzalez5432 Está muy bien que no lo hagas si no sientes la confianza. Mira, si lo haría sin ningún problema porque para mí fue muy divertido todo el proceso, pero hay dos cosas que tienes que tomar en cuenta: 1) Yo no me dedico a esto, si te fijas en el primer video calenté demasiado algunos pads y se cayeron, 2) Para que lo pudiera hacer tendrías que pagar envío, esperar a que me lleguen, luego esperar a que le ponga la entrada de video, de nuevo pagar el envío de regreso y luego, esperar a que te lleguen a ti de vuelta, lo que además, incrementa el riesgo de que le pase algo a tus goggles en la paquetería (aparte del riesgo de que algo me salga mal). A lo mejor, lo que te conviene más es vender tus goggles y comprar otros que si tengan entrada de video.

@@generaciondesilicio8087 Me gusta tu entusiasmo. Tengo paciencia. Si estas dispuesto te los envío.

you mounted it with 3d printed parts?

@@generaciondesilicio8087 Hi. Yes. This is a modified 3D print. Ubec is hidden inside and the goggle converter is under the screen. Everything is powered by the 2S package.

@@sprytnyfpvfreestyle5263 Nice! And what module you are running?

@@generaciondesilicio8087 Now there is Eachine Pro58 with Pirx software from our home backyard. Our Polish company makes Pirx. As good as ahille but it's free.

@@sprytnyfpvfreestyle5263 Cool! Definitely I'm gonna take a look at that!

Muchas gracias Axel! si, nada más tienes que cerciorarte cuando quites el receptor de que las salidas sean las mismas.

Tampoco tienen entrada de video av, verdad?

@@generaciondesilicio8087 no no tienen

@@generaciondesilicio8087 buenisimo!! vamos a ver que sale!! tenes instagram o alguna red social??

@@NordenAgro solo tengo mi cuenta de facebook personal

hahaha maybe!!! but I don't have good pronunciation and I think there are a lot of pretty good channels in english that knows thousands of times more than me. Also (and I think more important) I would like that people in my country, and people who shares language with me could create comunity and access to the information in an easier way.

Yo creo que si. Sólo es cuestión de conectarlo directo de la alimentación o de la placa que servía como cargador (en los cables que alimentan a la tarjeta principal) para que se encienda junto con los goggles.

@@generaciondesilicio8087 pero como lo pongo para que no se empañe nada dentro

Yo lo pondría de lado en donde están los hoyos. Acabo de checar rápido algunos ventiladores y creo que los de 80mm necesitan 12v y 200mA. Tendrías que tomar la energía por el conector de barril y usar algún regulador de voltaje para alimentar el ventilador.

Déjame investigarte bien qué se puede hacer y si se me ocurre algo te lo dibujo el fin de semana y nos ponemos en contacto por facebook. Qué te parece?

@@generaciondesilicio8087 dale, igualmente, tienes discord? ser me hace mas facil por ahi

Thanks man!!!

Thank you man!! If you don't want to use the switch, you can use the dji adapter from URUAV. If so, look for the version3. That will be the next video, because I think it could work for any goggles.

hahahaha I got that reference!!!! Yes, both signals try to pass through the same path.

You're welcome. I used the TBS Fusion, but this mod works for RapidFire or any Fatshark module. I think you can buy the step up converter in amazon (look for a good brand. The one I know is Pololu), in the web page of Pololu or maybe in any store of electronic components. Here I've got a couple of links: www.amazon.com/s?k=step+up+converter+5v+pololu&ref=nb_sb_noss www.pololu.com/category/136/voltage-regulators

Also, I'm editing a couple of videos that I think will make this mod a little easier and you won't need the 5v step up converter.

I'm glad you found it!! For this video I guess you are right, but the step up is from the first video of this mod.

@@generaciondesilicio8087 yes, I saw them all. Now I'm thinking to take power directly from battery to module with 5V step down...

@@AkutWibowo I think there will be no problem with that. I have added an Av in/Av out and I will upload a video of that. If you want to add it also to your mod, you can use a solution similar to the dji goggles: add the Av in/Av out and a female barrel connector with 5v, and then use the Uruav board for analog external modules. I think it could be a little cleanner mod, because you don't have to use the dremmel for the wires that connect to the pins of the external module.

@@AkutWibowo And remember getting good converters. If you want to add protection you can use fuses after the converters

@@generaciondesilicio8087 this is getting more interesting. Thanks for share and advise. Will wait for new AV in/out video!

You are welcome. No, man. I have already flown with the mod, but I haven't record anything because now I have more video than radio. I just received crossfire but my FC died. The new one is on the way. As soon I get it I'll record the test.

@@generaciondesilicio8087 waiting bro....🤟😁🤟

Thank you. Glad it helps.

No man. I didn't use 3D printed parts. I used the uruav dji analog adapter. Here's the link (it's an affiliate link): www.banggood.com/custlink/3vKylc1Sjz

For AV in and AV out, I don't know if it would work because I haven't try it, but maybe with a 4 pole female 3.5mm jack (is the one that looks like any headphone cable, but has 4 separations in it). I think that you just need to solder an end of a wire to the video pad in the goggles, and the other end to the 3th or 4th pin in the 3.5mm jack. If you want audio the first pin in the 3.5mm jack is the left audio and the second is right. In the goggles I pointed the audio left pad in white and the audio right pad is in gray. The last thing to do is to wire the pin in the 3.5mm jack that remains to ground in the board (I would use the ground that is in the beginning of the mainboard of the goggles).

To be honest I don't know if it will work. I didn't want to try it because I was so happy that the mod worked and I didn't want to risk it anymore hahaha.

If you do it, please let me know how it goes.

Sorry for so many replies. I just remember another reason why I didn't do it. I think it would work only for AV out, because the signal of the module will be in the board. Maybe AV in could be done using the conections of the dvr, and just change the mode in the display with the stick in the goggles, but I don't know. I prefer having dvr.

And maybe for connecting to your computer you would need a signal converter

Thank you for the words!! Let me see if I can figure out something for your comment in the other video.

i finally modded mine and add a fusion,. im so happy because the range is out of this world, i mean out of my house flying lol.

@@junvervasig You really did it? it is great!! I'm glad everything went good. Congrats!!

Thanks, man!!

Thanks man! Appreciated it!!

Could you make a video where you show the difference between the normal receiver and the TBS Fusion? I also intend to make this modification. It will be great to see the difference 😁

@@sheeshifpv7861 Yes I will. I'm just waiting for some parts, because now I have longer range for video, but no for radio signal and I get failsafes hahaha!!. So, I think first step is to work in your radio (I'll get crossfire because of the Fusion, but if you are going to use RapidFire or any other module maybe ExpressLRS is going to get some traction in the comming months) and then the goggles.

@@generaciondesilicio8087 Thank you very much for the reply! I await your next video impatiently now 😁. I already have Crossfire and a TBS unify pro32 hv so now I just need the goggles mod haha 😂. Have a good day/night, Salim E.

Thank you very much. The hardest part and the one with more risk is to desolder the build in receiver, everything else is a piece of cake. If you do it, let me know how it goes.

Gracias. Un saludo

Muchas gracias viejo! un saludo.