There will be a video up next week that goes over proper internal wastegate setup, keep an eye out! -Reed

@ perfect! I’ll be looking forward to watching it 👌

Welcome! -Reed

I am making a video next week going into detail about this...hang tight! -Reed

Watch my first video here kzbin.info/www/bejne/mXPcp6SPrtBqoKs It shows the points of interference I am talking about, even on the T4 housing! Keep a close eye on it, for sure -Reed

Glad I could help! -Reed

Thank you! -Reed

We closely copied the Garrett architecture for our S400 wheel. There are changes made to it so it will better match the compressor groups of our S4 lineup, but its very similar! -Reed

@workturbo nice. Are the restrictions inherent in the 1.45a/r. s400 turbine housing corrected by the deletion of one blade? Or is it the geometry of the housing itself? If i go to a bigger a/r my low rpm boost suffers. So. Keep the 1.45 and use the 9 blade turbine wheel. My second option is switch to a Garrett Gt50 or Gt55 and utilize the larger diameter turbine wheel and tighter a/r housing. But much more money to do that. 🤷‍♂️ Im at a pivotal point in my my system. 14.6L.. 3406e CAT motor. 650 hp.

@@hardhead7056 We are actually putting together one of our 78mm units with this turbine and 1.45 for a client next week, and an 80mm/1.45 with the SXE style comp cover the following week for an ACERT conversion customer....we are going to get some good data from both! -Reed

@@workturbo That sounds promising. The 1.45/80 mm results would interest me. 👍

Both water cooling and proper shut down routine will go a long way to promote the life of any turbo...blanket or not. Good luck! -Reed

Thank you! -Reed

It has its strong points for sure! -Reed

With the "half clipped" design, you will gain flow at the cost of efficiency...but this is not always a "bad thing" The lighter weight helps get the response back, and as long as the turbine can deliver the energy to drive the compressor at the right time there is no real negative trade off to this design. There are so many variables with turbine wheels, and I will take a deep dive into that topic soon! The shop has me slammed at the moment, but rest assured more in depth videos are coming. I appreciate your support! -Reed

@@workturbo I was watching another video you were comparing the Turbosmart, Borg Warner and Xona. You indicated that the Xona would be abit lazier based on the flow maps, considering the sizes were similar on paper. This why I asked the question above.

@@og33vo I was mainly referring to the compressor wheel design, and I have received quite a few messages revolving around that video. I am working on the test rigs to show "why" I made those statements. These tests are a bit time consuming, but they will be worth it! feel free to emial me support@workturbochargers with your specific build info, I will be happy to help you make your decision! -Reed

This method just allows you to have some range of boost adjustment without having to change springs. For example, our car needs about 16 psi on the street for pump gas, but when we go to the track we want to run race fuel and closer to 25 psi of boost. Adding the regulator allows us to do this quickly, without spring changes. It is simply a convenient and accurate way to add boost to the system! -reed

@ thanks for the explanation. Makes perfect sense! Great video by the way, very detailed and informative.

They are in the "works!" -Reed

It would be messy, but OK to use. I like to make sure everything is clean, tighten the clamp just enough to seat it, tap the band with a plastic faced hammer around its diameter and then torque. IDK if it is the best way, but a good friend who was a mechanic in the air force told me that was "the way to do it!" Regardless, I think cleanliness and just taking your time to look at everything closely is the key to success! HTH, and thanks for the question! -Reed

If you add boost to the upper port, it will always hold the gate shut (by a factor of the spring + boost pressure)...therefore producing 'all of the boost" as fast as possible...until something gives! This is essentially going to keep the gate shut all the time, not allowing it to move at all. The purpose of the spring is to provide resistance UP TO the gate opening, therefore giving you boost control. A 7 psi spring's force will be overtaken by the pressure pushing against it, allowing the gate to move and control the turbochargers shaft speed (output) There are rare cases where high backpressure and high intercooler restriction will cause the gate to open quicker than the rated spring pressure...but this is another topic all together. If you need more clarification, please ask. Your head gaskets/rod bearings/pistons will thank you! - reed

@workturbo but why apply pressure to under the diaphragm?

@@vnv8dude Spring is on top of the diaphragm, so you push against the spring. The spring and assembly is designed as such to keep the valve in the closed position until a desired pressure is achieved. I will do a video showing one fully disassembled in the near future. Most all automotive gates are designed the same way (Turbosmart, Tial, Precision, Turbonetics, HKS etc)

Most likely this is just the bearing and seal structure creating a little bit of resistance due to the weight of the rotor group providing resistance. I would put a bit of oil with a syringe into the feed side, spin it over a few times and repeat. New turbochargers rarely have enough oil in them "as delivered". So, pre-oiling is a requirement. Just look closely at your clamp and make sure there is clearance around all of the edges, and the turbo spins freely without any mechanical noise and you should be good! If you are still concerned, you can send some pictures or more information over to my email. [email protected] and I will be happy to help! -reed

I am going to cover that content here in the next week or so! Stay tuned..-Reed

Thank you!

We are going to cover this topic in depth soon, but, in very short form here is your answer: Retarding ignition timing moves the combustion event closer to EVO (exhaust valve opening), creating higher exhaust temps (EGT). This, combined with other changes such as delaying end of injection (late fuel delivery) and increasing injection rate (adding fuel) will provide more energy to drive the turbine wheel, and subsequently spinning the turbine harder. Here is the flip side...since you delay the combustion event, you also lower the engines power as a side effect. To offset this, your launch rpm usually must be raised. Case in point. I was working with a 2.0 Cosworth drag project in the mid 1990's, it was a clutch car as well. We started out by trying to launch at a high rpm off of a typical for the time "rev limiter". This was Ok, but we were still "waiting" on the turbo to respond. We started playing with timing retard...starting by taking 5 degrees out of peak, then 10, then 15...and the magic started happening. We saw positive gains starting around 0° of actual timing at 7000 or so rpm...we were able to make 5-7 psi on the clutch. So we pulled more timing, but the engine rpm started to fall off as well. Ultimately we would end up turning the engine close to 9500 rpm, pull the timing back to -30 BTDC (or more) and add fuel. When we did this, the rpm would drop back to ~7500, but we would be able to build close to 25 psi of boost on the clutch. Very cool, until it wasn't ! The added heat took its toll on exhaust valves, seats and even the header material. We were running a standard 304 stainless header and titanium valves. Ended up going to 321 for exhaust material and inconel valves with beryllium copper seats, coatings on the combustion chamber, pistons and exhaust ports. We also had to service the head quite frequently due to heat related stresses. This was all very new to us at the time, but it was a cool thing to witness a small 2.0L 4cyl spool a GT45 turbo at a time when nobody else was really trying this. sorry for the rambling...but yes, pulling timing can help with turbo spool if applied correctly! -Reed

@workturbo no need to say sorry for rambling. that was very good read and i appreciate that you took the time to type that. thank you alot for the info🙏🏻

The real tech stuff is coming... I want to cover "basics" first and build from that point. Hang with me and I promise it will be worth it! I appreciate the feedback and recommendations 😊 thank you! -reed

I had some formatting issues on this video and could not link the previous one to it that explains. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mXPcp6SPrtBqoKs Here is the link, basically the turbine housing clamp will interfere with the turbine housing if not installed in a very specific orientation. This misalignment causes turbine wheel to housing interference and turbine wheel damage Sorry if the video content did not make this clear! -Reed

Very welcome!

very welcome! -reed

@@CJ5EVOLUTION videos covering electronic control are coming soon! -reed

@hmpfabrication1576 I will do an updated video on twin wastegates next week. It's pretty straightforward, but there are a few key things you will want to get right! Hang tight, I'll get it up asap! -reed

Awesome

I give props were props are due! Thank you sir!

I think so! Allows us to keep 1 PN for a master backplate...just a simple mill operation and its re sized for a second application. This one PN allows me to adapt to 4 other popular covers we upgrade on a small scale. -Reed

I have always found a sump tank works best to get the oil as air free and collected for the pump's suction side. Keeping the pump primed the best we can anyway. If you are willing to experiment, the T fitting in the line may work in your application. Seems like a simple enough test! -Reed

I would love to discuss options with you. If you are interested, send an email to [email protected] and tell me more about your engine and build! -Reed

100% agree!

Many years ago my friend Matt and I did a custom twin turbo kit on a viper...cranked it up, ran great. Shut it off and went inside to grab some food. Came back to 7 qts of oil dripping out of each side pipe. Ooops! Lesson learned! -Reed

It needs to be rated for the flow demand, temparature and also be a low "crack" pressure. I have used products from Eaton, Improved Racing, Vibrant etc with good results. -Reed

I have had this happen countless times when rebuilding units. The housing is most likely distorted. Take the housing to a competent machine shop that will set it up properly. Center off of the compressor wheel bore and square off of the diffuser surface, keep runout below .0005" in each plane. Put some layout fluid on the receiving ID, and make a skim pass...you should see the distortion very clearly at this point. From there, test fit the chra, remove only enough to get the two pieces to fit, do not worry about getting the whole surface cleaned up and round...just enough to get it to fit! The O ring will seal it, and you can also put a skim coat of Loctite 515 on the flange for added piece of mind! hope this helps-Reed

@@workturboWow! Thanks for sharing your experience. Loving your videos! So glad I found the channel. Absolutely the MOST educational O&R information out there. Thanks for your reply and machining advice. I followed the spirit of your advice and got a good fit today. Clearances look good by eye so far. I’ll gauge it up after fully seating and tightening on the bench. Nuff said. Oh yeah; Cat doesn’t call out an o’ring but the housing has a chamfer for such. I got an assortment of silicone o’ring stock from The O’Ring Store overnight. Made a .063 o’ring lickety-split. I’ll also add some 515 judiciously. Feeling better about the whole thing. Thanks again👍

I am using a standard round insert (1/2") toolholder. Available at any good machine supply warehouse. -Reed

@@802Garage it would help out quite a bit with exhaust flow over the standard borg wheel

I appreciate the motivational feedback! I try to provide solid and straightforward answers to my customers questions/problems. Doing a quick video always seems to help the most, plus it gives a little back to the turbo community. Hope all is well "down under!" -Reed