I want to try 12 degrees

I can testify to this that the Dewalt batteries last longer than milwaukees. at least the 12v ones. Using the impact and drills on both the dewalt 12v xtreme and m12 gen 3 combo, and all running on 2ah batteries, I had to charge the Dewalt 2ah once in a 8 hour shift, while twice with Milwaukee 2ah in the same time frame. And on top of that, Milwaukee put so much power in a small tool that eventually it heats up. Both the tool and batteries. Dewalt never went into cool down mode. Not once.

How did you pull the handle off when the handle hole goes through a hole in the adjustable wrench as well? Ive never had one of these slide on me and was a real pain to cut off an 8inch pair because of the area that goes through the wrench. Strange

An ordinary pair of scissors ?, I thinking of a big brother to my Ladybug 👍👍

I cant keep everything together. I'd love to love the bag, but I'm a landlord and everyone including family helps me. I've got like 10 tool bags. 😂 I've tried making one for electric, one for pluming one for drywall, and now I'm just making multiple do it all bags lol. The best thing I've ever done is using a special red duck tape to mark all the tools that are mine. 😂

If you want more of a v-edge with flexible belts you can use the little red lever in between the BGA and the motor. You can move the tension-er towards yourself and increase the tension of the belt. I have not seen any people talk about this anywhere.

Jared Centers

Thank you. I always wish Compact but as soon as I got Classic SD on my keychain the number of variations for pocket increase significantly. But new problem, now I have which one from Waiter, Walker, Tinker Small, Spartan, Compact go in my pocket today 😂

Great video. I completely agree on the importance of hardness on a knife steel.

Thanks for your video. I just purchased a new set of three new-style Knipex pliers 86 03 180/250/300 in chrome. My issue is that the button on all three pliers has a tendency to stick in the down position. They will pop back up to their normal position if I exercise the pliers. Any thoughts about this? Thank you.

How do you flick the blade open so fast? I have been fiddling with mine and just can’t figure it out.

Thanks for the video. I’m removing my inwall ac unit and going mini split. Can I use this Brad nailer to build the frame and secure it to the existing framing in my house?

I have been maintaining kitchen knives for a long time and I'd like to share some thoughts about this topic. Firstly, I have a large Victorinox knife like the one in the video. I touch up the edge probably no more than once a year! Great edge retention, right? Wrong, not necessarily. You see I VERY seldom actually use it - mainly for carving large meat portions, on special occasions. For this reason I tend to disagree with you choice for a beginner. On the 8 inch, those I use a bit more, and sharpen/touch up more regularly. Here this is good choice to begin with. I also have a 5 inch chef's knife ( Scanpan, from Denmark). Fantastic knife. [I now have the full set of 3 knives, but that is not relevant to this discussion.] However, I also have a bog-standard 4 1/2 inch utility knife, off the shelf from Ikea! This I use a LOT as it gives very good control as I am closer to what I'm cutting. VERY good steel and a champion for edge retention, and CHEAP! Brilliant knife. Victorinox paring knife. What more can I say - without doubt, the MOST used item in the kitchen! So much so, that I have 3 or 4 of them, and when I touch up/sharpen knives I always do them all at once! (I use a Lansky kit with diamond stones). Mostly used for all those many small fruit/veg cutting jobs, and most in-hand cutting, like pealing fruit like oranges, apples, etc. Indispensable! More recently, however, I acquired a really nice Santoku knife, and I now use this a LOT, mostly for vegetable prep. I much prefer the forward/backward cutting style (Japanese) to the rocking style you demonstrated (European). The reason is that it cuts rather than chops as in the rocking style. I find edge retention is somewhat longer lasting. I do not use the honing rod. The reason is that it is very difficult to maintain a constant angle on the edge bevel, so that after a while, the bevel becomes rounded and dull. Then, it becomes a major job to cut a whole ne bevel from scratch. As I said before I use my Lansky kit for maintaining that same edge angle. One addition I did make to the standard Lansky stone set is that I have a ceramic 600 grit wet honing stone for my finer edges (ie 17 degs), like the Santoku and the 8 inch. The other heavier use knives I sharpen at a more obtuse angle (20 degs) and use up to the standard "fine" stone. I hope this helps viewers make some informed choices, and will happily engage should anyone have questions about my experiences in the kitchen. Cheers mate! PS Your point about a well-maintained knife was an absolute gem!

Big difference in canada super tool is $135 and surge is $202 big difference

The compact is such a well developed pocket tool. I might have to get one. Q expensive.

Be aware that with Spyderco, if you need a 50 cent bushing for your knife pivot, you will have to send your knife back (paying shipping both ways) and pay to have it replaced. They will not simply ship you the part you need. I have a Domino with the paper thin cheap bushing that fails and it will cost me $30 to fix a $1 worth in parts. Their customer service is crap! They never took responsibility for the shit design of the Domino's bearing and bushing.

I really don’t understand why they didn’t just make the knife a bit thinner and make the slope all the way from the top of the blade to the edge… the the ark would be perfect for me but now I just want to carry the ark plus a Spyderco instead of just the ark 🙄

I EDC the Farmer X, along with a Mini Champ on my keychain. I'd prefer the old Manager on my keychain, but the Mini Champ isn't too much bigger.

Cut yr fingers on closing???

The 91mm companion is perfect Urban EDC

No, Vanax is the king of stainless. Even Magnacut is a better overall knife steel and is far more accessible.

What do you think are the best available blade steels for the PM2 specifically, based on its blade shape, intended use, etc? I love the PM2 and I'm having a hard time deciding which version of it I want to get as my main EDC. I'm thinking K390, Cruwear, or Magnacut. I would consider M4 or 10V but just can't find them anywhere.

skeletool pliers are absolute trash for anything that isn’t very light duty. using it to try and open a tap brass nut along my home resulted in the teeth failing

Any thoughts on the K390 out of Golden? I’m thinking about picking up a Bento Box PM2 K390 but I know the hardness is not as high as the K390 out of Sakai.

What was your Home Depot hack for the larger Sawzall?

I just wish they would give you the *option* to put the inline screwdriver (like on the explorer) by removing maybe the cork screw or the hook (without removing the nail file) and use the pen system of the manager, maybe even add a ruler metric and imperial on an existing tool. That would be the best sak ever, it's really the ph screwdriver that keeps me away from the compact

Good video! I just bought that one with the Delrin handle after the rubberized one got a little loose over a year (and I accidentally chipped the blade). It is very rounded and the blade shape did strike me as different as well. Looking forward to using it, they're great knives!

How are you enjoying it?

Great video! I have two questions for you. Which edge tester model are you using? And what is the name of the book you referred to?

Omg don't bore holes in your basement for the sake of the video 😂 but i appreciate it!

Rebar in my bag and micra in my pocket is a great combo which gives you scissors and more delicate tools like tweasers & nail file, I believe they used to sell them as a pair.

I would really love a knife in 14c28n, already have this steel from Miyabi , 14c28n with cryo would do an amazing "sea "knife

I love my shapton 1000 :) wich is basically a 700 eheh

so hammer mode is for tougher material ?

Im sharpening a set of classic steak knives. They are in a jig style sharpener. They are coming in at 15* grind edge (one side of knife edge) down the flat and 20* grind edge around the curve. Im not sure why the curve changes, but to get a burr on the curve is taking about 45 minutes per knife with a 220 grit stone. The very tip is off from there. Reference this test, holding them by hand as you are is not going to produce an accurate measurement of angle.

Great vid. I got a question for you about your Manix 2 Maxamet. You mentioned you were not satisfied with this knife, and wished the Manix 2 blade was thinner because you are not satisfied with the performance of the Maxamet at 18 degrees. Do you think this knife in particular is not a good use of the Maxamet blade steel? If so, what would be a better Spyderco knife in Maxamet, a PM2? Do you think there is a steel that is better suited to the Manix 2 blade's thickness, maybe S90V or Rex 45?

IMO the MC is too small (short) I'm running the taller MCT and the TCXL pouch as my grab bag Works for me 👍

I think I chatted with Levi on this round of S125V and I think it’s 64-65 hrc

Can't go wrong with channellocks. I always buy 🇺🇸 when possible.

I would buy a CPM S45VN if... I din't already have three CMP S110V Spydercos.

You can swap the guards btw

Here are many bloggers making videos about Arc. Many knife lovers talk about a pocket knife in terms of its sharpness and steel grade. Simple - not enough, they say! The knife is not sharp enough. BUT FOR WHAT? WHAT DO YOU CUT WITH THEM EVERY DAY? WHAT CAN YOU CUT WITH A MULTI-TOOL THAT S30V STEEL IS NOT ENOUGH? I don't understand. I understand when a person uses a specialized knife for work, the specifics of everyday activities. But this is definitely not a multi-tool with its cutting edge of the blade on average 60 mm! A multi-tool is made for something else! Why is there a Magnacut in it?

I have the sidekick tool and thinking on buying new one for DIY. thanks for the review

The toothpick is great for opening zip ties!

How much better is the wusthof ikon?

I spent 500 bucks on my set 22 years ago and then it turns out I only need 3 of them. Cannot get them sharp.

Grab you an atoma 140 8x3 for apexing. You'll be able to apex in under a minute. Then move to your f240 f400. The work sharp is nice but it's pretty small

Had to use their warranty on one of their Magnacut knives; they pretty much ignored my emails after I shipped it back. Two months later, when I got a hold of them, I was promised that I would get my knife back, but nothing was shipped. Another week after that, I requested a full refund.

In einem anderen Beitrag wurde von ihnen ein Takamura Chromax geschärft mit der Kombination Naniwa 800/ 5000 Shapton Pro. Scheint auch gut zu funktionieren. Was ist der Unterschied zwischen den beiden Kombinationen. Habe den Shapton 5000 Pro. Ich bin am überlegen ob ich einen Naniwa 800 kaufe und das Finish dann auf dem Shapton mache. Habe auch den naniwa 400. Heist also Naniwa 400/800/ Shapton 5000 Pro kombination. Deshalb die Frage.

This video makes me feel better about my decision to order a Manix 2 in Rex 45. It’s on the way and I was second guessing the purchase until watching this. Thanks!