Does anyone have a part number for this oil screen?

Huh 😒 that was a whole lot of confusion going there.

Ever come across your bike making a strange noise when over 6000 rpm? Sounds like a gripping or slight grinding noise?

The longer the arrow, the more FOC.

I was hoping that the filter would eliminate the screen.😢

I’ve always cut my arrows about a half inch in front of the rest launcher and have never had a problem. 25 years ago we used to shoot 2” overdraws and didn’t really have any problems.

what did you clean the screen and the area the screen sits in with?

not a chance I'm taking the case cover off to change the oil on a grom lol.

I always keep my broadheads in front of my fingers, great part about a compound bow is that it gives you the option of tailoring your bow to your chosen arrow, and that helps greatly reduce the risk of serious injuries that could ruin a hunting trip...I think your looking at a tuning issue, nothing a pro shop should "hate"

Found a rubber gasket in my oil after I changed it 2:00 can I still ride it or do I have replace it before riding, how important is it?

I always cut arrows at least a 1/2" ahead of my riser, just so it puts your broadheads ahead of your finger.

video could do without the goofy music!

What length arrows are you shooting now?

Those are the best inserts for the .204 arrows.

Do you have the link to these lights? Thanks for the vid

That first click you did after nocking it the first time. Did the arrow not move when you did it?

How did u remove the bolt behind the footrest bracket??

Can we use any synthetic 10 30 oil ?

thanks for the information

I ordered the 2:2 wiring harness. I think I need to buy the 3:2 wiring harness. Fml

You need the Cali-Bitz decal to know what degree you’re fletching at. 👍🙏🏹

With the cool melt, you can dunk the hot inserted arrow in a glass of water to cool it down & set it immediately. Oh, still waiting for part 2 & 3.

Is there any advantage to wiping the vanes and shaft first with acetone and then followed with denatured alcohol prior to fletching? I was initially using just acetone, but came across a post recommending using both acetone and denatured alcohol.

Have you experienced the transmission problems with your grom? Wanting to buy one but have seen other videos about that issue that Honda won’t fix

What we’re the torque specs on oil filter cover

How did those torque specs work for you ?what we’re they 8 ft/lb

Measure from the valley of the knock to the mark , also smh I’m nevermind

cant i just change the oil and filter?

I don’t believe your broadheads hit the riser because of length. It’s either improper tuning/setup causing rest to be out of proper location, rest not set to proper drop position, or torque on the riser while shooting. You may be masking other issues impacting your performance. They should all be looked at.

Another great way to find where to cut the arrow on your own is to get a full length arrow, slap painter's tape on the end, then mark your measurements from the nock valley in 1/2" or 1/4" increments, put a field tip on, go to a range, set up your phone to record yourself as you come to full draw and fire the arrow. Watch the video and watch for what marks are at the point you want to cut the arrow. Firing the arrow makes sure that you are not holding the string weird, gripping weird, or something for the sake of measuring. Got this tip from Clay Hayes who mostly focuses on the the trad side things. Works a treat. Also suppose it goes without saying that this is great for finding your draw length on a given trad bow also.

Mike Guy is correct!NEVER! Ever soak your carbon arrows or anything made with fiberglass in acetone! Or even rubbing alcohol for any long period of time . All fiberglass arrows are made with either polyester resin or epoxy resin’s both will eventually disintegrate in acetone. it ok to wipe them with acetone and then after with some warm water “if you want to be a Professional first use dawn dish soap than warm water to get rid of any left over acetone” just as you are using the acetone to break down your old glue it will then also break down your new glue! It will most Certainly eventually break down the shaft itself or at a minimum it can also weaken the tensile strength of the shaft …you are correct you are not a scientist, but some of us are. I happen to work for a very well known fiberglass company and i can promise you soaking anything fiberglass in acetone will break down the resins and cause it to become weak! If you are passionate enough to build your own arrows you should also be patience enough to do it the correct way

do you have to have a Tune for this exhaust if you have a intake upgrade?

A pretty green Wise Choice basically. Same internals.

I have the same. I will wait for round about 5k miles and lets check if the engine is ok with this exhaust.

Do not torque those case bolts unless you have a very accurate torque wrench

That depends if you're spine is correct bottom line!!!! I believe anyone with tuning knowledge,can cut them behind the riser and set the blades matching vanes, keeping the single blade facing up !!! I don't feel pro shops hate this they are laughing at you trust me!!!!

You need the rest timing adjusted to lift earlier. Shorter arrows like you have are better for stiffness.

What you clean the screen with?

Easy enough. I thought it was gonna be harder than this. It's all plug and play basically.

Depends on if you have the brains to tune/build arrows for a given purpose. Indoor, 3-d, Fita or hunting can each need different lengths. Very very few “ pro????” what or will wastetheir time helping the average shooter. And the real pro archers build their own for specific equipment and events

Did you re seal the cover when cleaning the screen? Or was it a rubber gasket. Just got my 2023 grom

Thanks great video 👍🏻

Does the exhaust mount on the inside of the controls?

If you strip a bolt hole on a block or other aluminum threads, you aren't screwed. If you use a King Cert or Timecert you will actually be stronger than it was before. Its basically like a steel sleeve. You drill threads out and retap the hole. Then the Timecert gets red locktighted in and has your original thread in it. Now that the material is steel on the threads you will have many more torquing cycles. We use then when head studs get pulled out on high boost engines.

What inserts were you using on your Axis?

I have the same exhaust. I love it. I kept it as it came after testing. LoL I got 120 DB and when you ride with it like that for hours you’ll regret it LoL.

You just need to put the rest up first. You can cut the arrow half way off riser.

Nice video. To get to the oil screen, did you need to loosen the rear set to remove the side cover. In other videos I've seen they remove the rear set but you seem to have removed the side cover without having to do this.

How often to clean screen

I know Dudley's a 4 vane guy. I"m gonna try 3 vanes... maybe 3 deg ...with some TAC vanes this time. Hope it works. Good video thanks