@@moosedroppings Thanks for your reply. Spring loaded or not the uncertainty I have is as follows: camshaft perfectly in place (locked with the tool), camshaft adjuster gear marking aligned perfectly and matching the cambelt (it's teeth), however that moving middle part of timing adjuster has a limited range and maybe could be moved clockwise or opposite if is not locked (some of those have internal locking pin actuated by the oil pressure at the engine start otherwise remain locked (whole unit has no moving parts by hand so installation can't go wrong - is it our case?). If the middle part of adjuster is free to move then the whole range of retarding vs advancing will unlikely be within specific range. I am about to get there in my car to take a risk and check it myself. On one video a guy disassembled timing adjuster from Audi to show how sprocket can move although the middle part which is bolted to the camshaft stays in place so in reverse order when installing it would be possible that marking just shows sprocket's positions as correct, camshafts locked correctly but still system will be not able to move within desired range. I hope I share my confusion clearly. Have a good weekend.

Nice. Love it. Glad you got it done.

Awesome. We have the motor disable jack video coming soon which will Eliminate the entire motor thing

@@moosedroppingswhat is this??

It would be better to remove the belt first. As you remove the cover bolts the tension on the belt will pull the cams up and put a sideways pressure on the journals

@@moosedroppings ok understood thanks

@@moosedroppings do you think I can use the cam locking tool to hold it down?

good question, turned off manually since it isn't hardwired to car,

I use a standard floor jack and just go either right in front or right behind jack stand pinch point, I slide the jack to position and roll jack right next to it. It rides the plastics but no one sees that and always works fine

For the most part these are self purge systems. The expansion tank is the highest point in the coolant system where the air will gather.

Yes, we did pull those out, either a 10 or 8 mm I think. I did hand tight on those, but next time I am in VIDA I will pull and post the spec, glad you're enjoying, there are still 2-4 more videos in the series coming up, the head is back off at machining currently addressing some issues that were missed on the first pass, but hopefully we are up and running in a week or two and moving on the more performance upgrade videos for this car... brake upgrade, more custom electronics, more custom interior.... stay tuned,

@@moosedroppings Thanks Joel, Yes 10mm almost same bolt as the water pump, im gonna use thread lock on them though. Another thing I just realised I overlooked is I didnt buy new crankshaft bolts so its down tools for a couple of days, looking forward to further episodes of this awesome series its been a huge help for me to decide to go for it, Cheers Andy

Can't say anything about KIA, but you should be able to run the product with ac off as well, really just trying to get the juice through the system,

Yeah. But something like $11k. No thanks. We were able to do this full forged internal build with all new Volvo and performance parts for about half the price.

@@moosedroppings Hard pass for me too! I think I would enjoy doing a rebuild.. and even if I wanted a crate engine I couldn't afford it 😂

@@PaneInTheGlass yea. This rebuild has been awesome. Should be running to in a week or two and new videos in the series still coming up soon.

Hey. Good info for sure. Checking that out

Interesting. See the part. Looks like threaded ends. How did you attach to the master and the bleeder?

I believe the photo on the clutch master's website is incorrect. It's the flared fitting same as the plastic part you replaced in this video just milled aluminum with o-rings. I looked through my email to make sure I have the details right. It's actually a Focus part, not Mustang. Part SL-07234 - Clutch Masters Steel Braided Clutch Line ***Ford Focus 12-17***

While we are on the subject of transmissions.... the Ford Focus with a M66 has reverse gear in a different location on the shifter. This is an issue for me because I want to get a Coolerworx Shifter for my Volvo C30 M66, but there is not one specified for the C30. Soooo what is the difference in the Focus M66 and the C30 M66? Is it the internal shift tower? If so, how can I find a Focus shift tower?

@@mikebruce6037 looks like this is a rabbit hole for me to fall down.

It is a 2006 s40 so it will be the same as your 2011

Wayne’s engine rebuilders in riverside. But also. The next video in series coming next week is exactly this. Replacing and seating the entire head assembly. It’s pretty easy actually.

@@moosedroppings awesome and thanks I’m also thinking about doing a manual swap but not sure if it’ll be worth it. I’ve checked out your info on that. But if I go that route I might just go all out on the body, motor and exhaust. 🤷🏾

@@aligntoyourhighest the m66 is worth every penny, if you have the pennies to spare, you can do everything else, but it will bring the most joy,

This is to push the pedal back out, but you're right, if you have proper clutch pressure through your hydraulic system, the pedal should push itself out...however, this would put undue stress and rely purely on the pressure to return the pedal, so I would for sure get that spring back in,

Considering the engine was sealed, check the belt drive, anything in any of the 3 belts could bind in the gears, I also hope the tool was installed with the gears at TDC before anything else.

No worries since you are dialing the timing in anyways. You can just make sure everything lines up as you dial it in.

What if the cam wheel was rolled backwards?

@@2cents740 Are you saying the cam gears moved while the cams were locked, meaning the gears moved off the alignment of the cams? If so, easy, doesn't matter, align the cams per the locking tool, then you can align the cam gears to alignment marks on the plastic cover and tighten.

Awesome, thank you!

@@moosedroppings your welcome!!!

Be sure to pull the lines even if new and blow through them. I got a new l tube and it was clogged out of the bag. You may get lucky. And it makes sure you double checked. But if not the pump is only $15

Awesome. It is for sure one of the easier tasks on these cars once you see the layout.

Yep. That happens. Talked to 3 people this week same thing. One guy drilled it out. Or weld a screwdriver to it. We just got two bolts in the mail today since we’re pulling ours. Prepared

After reading up....I see it does happen often. I will get it. My work schedule has me tied up to get it done in a hurry and I'm having to commute with my 95 f150. It has a drinking problem. Ha! It's always there for me tho. I gave a family member our 98 s70......that thing was a true hero. I was in the process of putting new engine in our 02 bmw 325i not expecting this problem on the other volvo. I will get it tho. Thanks for your videos.

Hey no worries. Good luck. We ordered a few extra and just have them in our parts bin. I would consider them single use for how much torque they need and how soft they are

I have finished putting lock tool on...changed the seals ,reinstalled the sprockets, tried to turn the crank,and it stopped. I turned the sprockets and now the crank will turn. I fell like something happened. Do I need to tear it down and check the order of stuff? I am anticipating a full brake down.

If the lock tool was secured and installed at top dead center than nothing internally could have moved. By chance your crack lock tool still in the block?

Hell yeah. Thanks for watching and thanks for not going to the dealer for service. 😅

Sure. A few screws hold it down. Easy to move over

This was a local shop, but price was $1000+. I think the elevate price includes the two way shipping of a head which takes most the funds there. qande.com/site/

Much love

nice, glad it helped, it's a lot of information, but for timing, you want to know it all!!!

Exactly. Mark them with paint market or something for ease next time

sorry, not seeing that code anywhere.... likely timing is a smidge off, very common and easy to do, but the tech should have handled and cleared codes before returning to you,

Thanks for the fast reply! The code mentions Cam position low on the intake side. ECM-674D and I got a ECM-740C signal high it say it's a permanent problem.. not sure if related. The mechanic is trying to solve the problem but the car is now fully mounted.. to advance a tooth in the intake side of the cam, I need to do the entire timing procedure again or there is another way? Is there any problem on driving the car like this? Everything else seems fine, car apparently runs great.

Oh. It is likely off. Had similar issues. Redo the entire thing. There are hacks to jump teeth but better to simply do it fresh to make sure. Even the cam lock tool would ensure it is perfect.

Any reason you know that is only throwing error on the intake side? If I advance the whole thing a smidge and fix the intake side, won't start to throw error on the exhaust (high)? I'm sorry, very new to this stuff

Three separate rotations, crank, intake cam, exhaust cam. Intake side could be off by itself. But you have to pull the timing belt anyways to adjust. Try not to move the others. The cam lock tool will lock them all into spot perfectly and allow the belt to go on with them where they should be. You would have to pop the caps on the other side to apply the tool and replace with new caps when done

very different, here is the side by side: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXrJmn6trayIftk

Sure thing, let us know how that turns out, considering the same, what product you going to use?

@@moosedroppings i'm gonna use STP GB 3mm for layer 1, STP Accent 10mm for layer 2 and STP Biplast 5mm for layer 3. For all 4 doors

@@FanDecafMusic nice, going to be like a library in there,