@@studiostraylight9140 oh that’s so right! I was definitely tempted as well! But it was just not in the budget to do so…

Hi, can’t give you a reliable number. I made this before Covid, when Steel was quite a bit cheaper.. but than I paid about 700€ for steel including the tabletop.

I'm using Autodesk Power mill to do the CAM work.

There is no precise line between the two. In general milling is with higher torque (bigger spindle) and more precision but slower speeds. Routing is faster speeds but less torque only small router bits no big cutterheads. Since the robot is able to mill concrete and stone and we have big cutterheads I’d call it milling.

Yes I’ve thought about it when I purchased them. But in the end I did it like it was original. The bearings are sealed by the housing pretty good. The housings also have greese nipples to greese the bearings, that would be impossible with sealed bearings.

Danke 😊 es ist schon ganz schön lange her, weiß das nicht mehr ganz genau. Aber so ca. 2 - 4h war die reine Fräszeit nach den ersten Verleimen.

Yes you’re right. If I had build a high precision mechanism this would have been definitely something to care about! But in this case it is no problem at all.

These trousers are not meant for work but for outdoor use. But I still love them for work as well! They are made by Fjällraven and named „85785 - Karl Trousers“ I got these in their outlet in Sweeden. @Fjallraveninternational

It is driven by Kuka KRC4 and programmed with Autodesk PowerMill.

Thank you! It’s a KR500.

Well.. it's a jointer planer with 61cm width. There is no brand or model number on it, so I can't tell you exactly. The previous owner told me that it was bought by his uncle immediately after WW1. But it's handmade from cast iron and in fabulous condition.

The robot is pretty expensive but that's mainly because it is designed to mill concrete. You could use a less expensive robot for only wood. The milling time alone was about 8 hours total.

Thanks for the answare 🙂 Cool. I am in concact with kuka now. Waiting for tham to bring me a price. But do remeber rufly what the price was for the robot, software, and the router/spindel? ❤

What kuka model is this? 360?? And What company did you buy the robot etc from :) What model is the spindel? :D

What model is this robot? ❤

@@PumpiPie It's a KR500

Here is another method to have your "Slugger" attach to thinner steel. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5PbiIaHZt2jqaM

@@1982nsu that is not the issue I am having, that is an american restriction, I get the same result no matter how thick the plate is.

guess they dont have sand paper in russia

Cool! Bist du zufrieden? Hast du vor sie gründlicher als ich bisher zu überarbeiten? Da steht bei mir noch einiges an, mal sehen wann ich dazu komme.

I‘m happy you’re asking! 😊 It’s taking way to long, I know… but I’m working on it 👍

@@HolzFlowe are still waiting… And want to say thank you for your amazing job :)

Thank you! These sizes depend on the castors you use. But with the casters I have mounted, at its lowest setting the gantry fits underneath a 2m high door. So its highes point is a little lower than 2m. You can raise the ganty about 1.15m so up to 3.15m. I hope this helps your question. If you have further questions, let me know.

Hi Mike, I'm using the RA-50 ST. But I have to say I'm not very happy with it.. The bar has quite a lot of play in the bearing. This may be a reason too, why my less powerful drill gets stuck. Besides this it is okay. I'm thinking of replacing the bar one day..

@@HolzFlo thanks so much. I need one of these machines but I didn't want to spend huge amounts of money. If you have any other model that you could recommend I'm going to see it.. thanks!

Yes that's true, I've done that mainly because I didn't have MIG available. I would prefer MIG welding for this project. Even though it's nice and clean to TIG it all. I've cleaned all the surfaces with the angle grinder and a flap disc before welding. For TIG I use pure argon.

A light socket fan is a fan that screws in like a light bulb

They sell light socket fans at worth-point

:D probably.. We were lucky enough to get the plywood for this project sponsored by Carl Götz. Anyway this students project wouldn't have been possible with a different material.

For these tool paths I used Autodesk PowerMill. It was still very laborious..

Hey Matthew, thank you for your concern! Yes you're right these cutter heads are not ideal in terms of safety. I plan to upgrade the head with a carbide helical cutter head at some point. (these are quite expensive..) I'm currently building a full cover for the cutter head also for dust extraction which should add a lot of safety.

@@HolzFlo Good plan! Yes, those helical heads are crazy expensive for what they are, but no amount of money can undo the potential damage one of those clamshell heads can inflict. Plus that carbide will last you for years or even decades without having to completely change the inserts (depending on if you're a hobbyist or pro). In the next 3-5 years I'm looking to upgrade to a bigger jointer. I want to go for an old Oliver 166, either a 12 or a 16 (but no smaller or bigger), and for the most part those come standard with a knife-and-gib head. They really don't build them like that anymore and you can often get them for a lot less money than buying a brand new (and not as good) model. It's good that they don't normally have a clamshell head on them as I REALLY don't ever want to have to change out the whole head (too time consuming and expensive for me).

@@GamingDrummer89 Yes, didn't dig into it jet.. But I think there are suppliers where you can get this helical heads custom made to fit your planer. Yeah these old machines are built very nice! I expect this machine to last my whole life, so I think it's worth it to put the money into a better cutter head at some point.

@@HolzFlo Yep, there are suppliers like that. Usually people go with a Byrd Shelix cutterhead. They're extremely expensive (especially custom built) but they have 4-sided carbide inserts that will outlast steel knives, on average, a couple or three dozen times over. Plus they're easier to reset than regular knives and cut much more quietly and don't tear out nearly as much on tough grain or figured woods. There are several other companies that do the same type of thing but Byrd is the one I see people upgrading to the most. Good luck! As for me, unless the particular jointer I end up getting happens to already have had a helical head installed, I'll just stick with the knife-and-gib head and skew the fence at an angle to get a shear cut. I'm probably going to just get a thickness planer already equipped with a Byrd Shelix head and if I do happen to get any tearout on my jointer's regular knives, I'll just plane the opposite face and then flip it back over and run it through the planer to clean it up.

I'm using Autodesk - Fusion 360 for this project.