If you have a press why not push the u joint caps back and forth eventually they'll slide right out unfortunately most people don't have presses in their garage

nice video, do you happen to know where is the heat exchange sensor ? and how many are there ?

I replaced blower motor in 45 minutes. 2010 BMW X6M. The biggest challenge was getting the fan motor back inside the dash, which required an awkward stretch of the lower dash panel outwards and setting the two alignment dowels correctly. This entire job can be accomplished with a T20 Torx driver and Phillips driver.

Im getting full fan speed but no air through the front vents, loads of air through the rear vents and windscreen... will this solve it?

Hi there buddy. Great video. Please could you help me. I have a 2009 e70 x5 35d and my front blowers don't blow any air at all. The center console rear blower works though. Would this be a motor issue becase all front blowers are not working

I am constantly amazed at how many uses there are for a welding machine and i need to stop putting it off and buy one already! even a cheap one will do fine for jobs like this, heck, little things are all i have ever needed one for, im not welding 1/2" plate for hours on end, 1/4" max, 30 seconds here, 15 seconds there. I know its after the fact but a little fluid film goes a long way. It doesnt penetrate. Its greasy as hell and coats metal parts so they dont rust! I go around and spray that shit everywhere because I live in the north and the winters here can be harsh!

My E71 had a chirping noise when the air was on, I isolated it to this component. Video was really helpful thanks, had it out in minutes, gave it some WD40. It was a little trickier to get back in but only 5 mins of effort. Great video thanks.

You should always drive the outer race back against the snap ring. It is unnecessary to pack bearings with bearing grease. If the diff is a G80 you have just contaminated the gear lube. Lube the bearings before assembly. After the hub is properly adjusted clean the axle mounting flange and put 2 inch wide tape across the bottom of the hub. Fill the area behind the tape with gear oil until the level doesn't drop. Hub is now full of oil. Remove tape and let excess oil drain out. Hub oil level is now just like it was before it was removed.

1. If OEM costs 3x and it does not last forever, I would rather save the $ and try some aftermarket ones, especially if it is easy to remove reinstall. 2 It is hard to remove. I could not drop it down. The glove compartment is in the way. Damn you BMW.

52 ft lbs is not enough to drive my outer race back against the snap ring behind it. I actually went all the way up to 100 ft pounds and that race still isn't moving, and there's a distinct gap to the snap ring. I'm not stoked on the idea of pressing the race back through the bearings but I'm not seeing much in the way of alternatives right now. Thoughts/suggestions?

Best details I have seen thanks for the time

I have this exact issue today, but no welder. I'm going to try drilling a hole in the cap and then tapping the hole and using a slide hammer. I don't know if it will work but I'll report back.

Thank You, I will use that knowledge for my GM! I can use that information for my brakes as it makes sense. As learning is always good.

very good information. especially about rotating hub reverse. i learned where i thot i knew and i thot i knew what there was to learn! " be great mechanic" . yes absolutely. be great or be broke down somewhere.

But when you put the new ,them back are you gonna put stress into the driveshaft.

is the 14 bolt 11.5 hd rear end found in GM trucks as well as dodge ram trucks?

One year ago and only 30 likes. This is great information

I just did my brakes, parking brakes, dust shields, and seals on my 01 GMC dually, and after watching this, I'm nervous! I used the factory service manual, and torqued the nut to 52 ft-lbs and backed it off to the closest keway, just as the manual said. Now I'm worried it's too tight!

Thank you ! Saved me a lot of time being able to reference this video!

Worked for me on a big rig. Thank you for sharing this with us.

Nice tool. center hole punches from harbor freight would work if you have enough clearance for them and a hammer

Wow great video. Thank you for making it

I got the whole U-joint out. but the snap rings were rusted in. they broke and half of each one is still stuck in the groove. any suggestions? heat it with torch and then use flathead screwdriver?

At minute 4:05 you mention there are 4-5 torx screws ...... but you don't say what they are for. Do they have to be unscrewed to get the blower unit out from under the dash? Or do you remove those screws to get the housing off the motor once it is removed from under the dash ? I am trying to pull the blower unit out and it is not budging at all.

Excellent idea. Thank you for the video.

Great idea

Thanks for the video. It was much harder to get the new one in. I had to remove the glove box liner in order to get it to seat properly on the top. It works great now.

I will have to try this. I tried to use a U press to remove the cap and the damn thing went on an angle on me. I can't budge it now. Thank for the video.

Thanks, well explained and just what I needed to know!

Awesome video. I appreciate the info!

Try drilling into the cap and tap the cap and thread in a bolt and use a slide hammer if the the cap is trash anyway.

Let me just go grab my welding equipment real quick 😑

worked like a charm came to youtube looking for the quick trick, i figured i would weld it but wasnt thinking right, using the socket and 'backer plates' (i just used oversized nuts to stack it up) and barely any torque on it and pop it comes out nicely. i had clamps on there good trying to grab it and pull it out but anyways thanks

I have a 2009 X5 35D. I just got my blower motor and resistor in. I did a quick search on the internet to see what kind of job I'm getting into. Saw your video and I said heck I'll just do it now. and I did it was that easy. My only trouble is getting that last little lip lined up but other than that it was a simple job. Thank you for posting.

All vents on my e70 are blowing really low at any fan speed setting. Like one vent blows a little bit of air. I’m guessing this will fix it.

Thanks for sharing this one. It's definitely easier than some other cars. But just FYI to others, it's not easy by any means. Mostly because you're working on your back and have limited visibility and access. There's something that the edge of the fan housing that gets caught up on, and prevents a flush mount. At least that's what happened to me. I got it to fit perfectly once, but of course that was the one time I forgot to plug in the fan power. Still trying . . .

Mines really really stuck in my aluminum yoke! The steel side was really tight too. Thought it wasnt going to have clearance like yours but it did come out with a few thousandths of clearance. Soaking it in WD40 right now...

Well how the heck did they get the u joint in there in the first place?

Having this exact problem. Thanks for the tip. I also don't like to beat and force things into submission. A shop broke 3 of my friends new ujoints trying to install them. A shop can you believe that? This is why I'm doing it myself🍺

Thanks buddy very helpful

That's a really good idea. Also using a 4-1/2" grinder with a cut off wheel to cut the U joint center out works good too. The caps come out much easier then.

Thank you for posting this! Have confidence to do this easily now

Hi, could you share what was the issue brought up this replacement? I have 2012 x5 35xdrive and not getting hot air on driver side. It seems like the auto temp not working because 3stage auto temp seems all same. Even i turn to intensive, not getting leveled up for the spin level. I tried cold/hot its the same. I heard noise (like motor noise) passenger side for the past couple days and the noise went away but ever since i heard the noise the hvac did not work right. Please help!

Great idea, thanks for sharing! Your idea worked on my 2009 Subaru Outback rear driveshaft u-joint after hammering a cup through the stakes. Looks liked you used MIG, but I used 1/16" E6013 stick.

Thank you for your help. I'm going to do the same replacement on my own E70 tomorrow. 👍😁

thank you so much it is very useful :)

I'm tired of putting money into my X5 - basically at this point I'm hoping I can make it go 2 months without something happening so I can get rid of it. That being said, thank you for posting this. Although it could use some more explanation - it had enough information to get the job done. Pointers for those of you who will be attempting this: 1) 3 screws on the kick panel 2) 2 screws on the duct 3) 4 on the actual blower fan assembly 4) Extremely tight space to work in I had the most trouble getting the old part out, like someone else mentioned, there is a small screw towards the left and on the right side of the upper dash panel. Helps to loosen it so you can yank the panel a bit to get the part in and out. As for aligning it back in - I might have been lucky got it in the first try 👌🏼

thanks man!

They make up for it with the evaporator. Let me know how you like replacing that.

thanks grate video