On the manufacturing tab in fusion after I do the setup and then go to the “cutting” tab the window that opens asks to chose a tool. I have a tool for each material (mild steel, aluminum, stainless) and thickness, and cutting tip (fine, normal). Each tool has the cut speed based on the cut charts. So for instance, when I cut 16 gauge mild steel using a fine cut nozzle I select that tool and it populates the cut speed. I still have to make sure the pierce delay is correct for the material and thickness but that is done in the windows that open when I post the file. Hope that helps

For 10 gauge steel (normal cut nozzle) I have pierce height .150”, cut height .060”, pierce delay .7sec*, cut speed 128 in/min. * the Hypertherm chart says .4 sec but our THC needs an additional .3 to .4 over that for all pierces after the first. In other words .4 seconds delay is good for the first pierce but subsequent pierces in the file need .7 to .8 seconds…just one of those idiosyncratic things about Langmuir.

Here is a link to my library you are welcome to download it and use any that you want. Note: it is for a Hypertherm 45XP so if you dont have that your cut parameters would be different but it will let you see how I've made the tool drive.google.com/file/d/1X-_MHM__5KC-N6eIR-X1TRF-I8zG0KLE/view?usp=sharing

@@CustomCreations3 Thank you Sir!! Spending hours trying to figure this out. It will be worth it!! This information is super helpful. And by the way, I did do the chains from your video...great add on!!

@@CustomCreations3 for some reason I could not open the tool file?!?

Thats a good idea…I’ve kinda run out of things to do on the table…let me mull it over!

@@CustomCreations3 I've watched a ton of your videos, so helpful. But lately I have been watching how people have made an item and cut it. I have been having a hell of a time not having a pierce point that is close to a finish cut....especially with holes. I was thinking if I just pierce the hole so I can drill it out, it might have a better clearance...Food for thought. Or maybe cut a piece that has that pierce divot and show how to fix it. Anyway thanks for your videos. I'm a creator on you tube too, and I know how long it takes to edit...I appreciate it!

Found a link that post processes your file and allows pierce only. get on the Langmuir forum and look for the topic "Custom version of Fusion 360 post processor to enable 'pierce only in the center' for holes" He has a link to a post-processor addin github.com/alesanmanoweb/CrossfireFusion360PostProcessor

Thx for the kind words…haven’t made many video’s lately (not my intent to build a viewer base). Plus since I bought the MR-1 it has become my new distraction! 🤓

Glad you liked it! Thx for the kind words!

Titan videos had the tool full depth in many of the pocket tool paths whereas the MR-1 speeds and feeds chart recommended a limit on tool depth so I simply changed the depth and used multiple passes

Hey Michael, that die when out long time ago and is being passed around based on a signup sheet. Do you subscribe to the Langmuir forum? If so you might want to search for a topic “dimple die” and you will find lots of info. Of interest is that many started 3D printing the die using my drawings and they worked good for a couple of dimples. Let me know if you have trouble finding the forum info.

I’m not sure I have a definite answer. On this project the hole was drilled and the diameter was very close to the OD on the mill. The path recommended by the Titan training where they used a Tormach was to bring the endmill directly into the hole full depth and then begin a radial cut opening the hole to the desired diameter. It is possible that the CAM in Tormach is different than the MR-1 and that the start of the cutting is slow and only after it makes a loop does it get to full cut speed (hard to tell from their video). In the MR-1 however the cut speed is immediate and was too much for the small mill. I’ve been looking through the CAM menus and there are settings that let you slow the cutting during the initial move but my actual remedy is to not do a full depth plunge but only as deep as Langmuir recommends in their cut charts. Thx for subscribing.

Certainly a viable option…I just like using socket

Hey David…sorry for delayed reply…was out if town with no Wi-Fi access. To be honest I’ve not measured the voltage on the IHS contacts so can’t say for sure but the IHS board has to have some verification that contacts have opened and closed. 5v is pretty standard so it would be a good guess. If you decide to measure let me know what you find. I’ll be back in the shop in another week so could check if you want.

@CustomCreations3 My xr came without the ihs cable. They have sent a new one but I'm overseas so shipping would take a while. I opened the box and saw that the plug is a 3 wire plug even though the other end is 2 wire. The three wires come from pins on the pcb marked 5v gnd and ihs. I did eventually test the 2 wires coming from the switch connected to 5v and ihs. This corresponded to a correct display of the ihs system in fire control. Best guess is the ground wire is used for shielding of the cable. Thanks for the feedback though. Really insightful video

Afraid I only made the first set and on the Langmuir site there is a sign up sheet where folks use the die then pass it on the the next one in line. Also many have 3D printed the die using drawings I put on the Langmuir forum and say they work fine for the two pan drain holes.

Thanks for putting your info on the thread…I’m sure it will help others

If I can do it anybody can! 😏.

I thought I had responded to this but I guess I didn’t. I haven’t seen the die for a couple years after I sent it out originally. There is a signup sheet on the Langmuir Forum and it is supposed to also be the method for tracking where it is. Here is the link: forum.langmuirsystems.com/t/bar-sink-drain-dimple-die/22761/363 If I wasn’t so covered up I’d make some more of these!

😂 I did at least say “152 cm for you folks in the rest of the world”.

Using these cheap little lasers (note: you might need to mess with the lens on the front to get it focused but once it is done haven’t had any problems. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072XF49LK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Holder is: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F1T97V4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The nozzle “shield” is a collapsible silicone funnel that the center is cut out to slip over the torch nozzle. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089LR8VD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have it in the passes tab labeled “finishing overlap”. I can’t figure out how to send a pic but you can email me at [email protected] and I’ll send it to you

@@CustomCreations3 sent you an email. Thanks!

Marty, try this link kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnTFgH2wYt-Zoposi=q6-B-ZheN5F0YeuW If you still can’t get it to play the procedure is to use a square resting on the table or a slat and the front of the x-axis where a torch will mount. On the back of the x-axis carriage there are set screws the push the bearings against the rail. Chose one of the set screws and turn it in (clockwise) until the torch mount face is flush with the square that is sitting on a slat. Then turn the other setscrew until it’s bearing just makes contact with the rail. Finally the two setscrews on the bottom bearings are adjusted till the bottom 2 bearings just contact the bottom of the rail Hope this helps

Yea…pucker factor still hits me sending a small threadmill into the hole for the first time…hope that gets better with experience!

Gracias por las amables palabras, me alegro de que haya sido útil. Hope that came out right! 🤓

Didn’t discuss heat treating the end in the video. Without knowing what stainless formulation these valves were I didn’t attempt any treatment. Some say the end where the rocker hits should be hardened

I believe I have learned quite a bit following the tutorials and at zero cost it can’t be beat. Good luck

🤓 Thanks for the compliment still a newbie at the CNC mill but I can at least arrange cables

Thank you the kind words Terry. I’m a retired Mech Engineer and have always leaned more toward application than theory so started hobby machining some time ago. First attempt at CAD/CAM was when I bought a CNC plasma table but before the MR-1 my lathe and mill were manual. I’m still learning on the CAM side and have yet to get a “real” job for the mill but I think it will come soon. I do want to make more videos and hope to get another one out soon Are you a machinist?

Started out Machining. Never became that good, but started a side business with wife in our basement. It grew enough to allow us to retire a few years ago. The MR-1 looks enticing...

@@terryk3118 sure wish I had the years of machining knowledge that folks like you have. Our business is my wife and I also. She does stained and fused glass art…I’m trying to get her to do videos but she hasn’t accepted the challenge yet! 🤓. I enjoy having her in the shop with me and seeing the things she creates. She uses a small water jet to cut some of the items so I do the CAD/CAM for her.

Keep encouraging her. Those would be great videos to watch as I have zero artistic talent. Also looking forward to seeing more of your experiences on the MR-1. Maybe how you work together on the plasma table.

thx...glad it was useful

Guess you’ll have to take that up with steel supplier…that how they label it on the invoice

⁠@@CustomCreations3I guess so 😂. You tell that verbally to anyone and it will come out as 1 1/2. Besides all that, in the video you said “half inch stuff”. “20t to bend that half inch”. So youre not being consistent. Maybe it’s all you.

Guess your gonna have to be more specific on what is the problem. When I order the material from Sandusky Steel is tell them I want 1/2” by 2” hot rolled flat bar and what do you know I get 1/2” thick by 2” wide hot rolled flat bar. I don’t have to tell them lengths because they come standard in 21’ I just tell them quantity. I think it pretty obvious from the things in the video that the 1/2” stuff is referring to the thickness. And yes the gauge on the 50T press said 20T at the 15 degree bend point.

I was very specific and I spelled it out in quotes but if you don’t understand it, don’t worry about it. Just know youre not consistent with your measurements. If you want, go back and listen to what you said.

“One half by two” seems to be your point of concern and that it would screw up someone’s day. How would you pronounce 1/2? What would you consider the correct terminology for 1/2” x 2” flat bar?

Thx for the kind words glad the video was useful. Since that video I have purchase a hydraulic punch and now just do a pierce at the hole location which marks where the punch is made. Cheating but solved my round hole problem 😜

@@CustomCreations3what hydraulic punch did you purchase? I been looking for one too

⁠@@timblack33for small holes I bought a cheapy off Amazon. Name on it is “Amzcnc” bought an inline foot switch so I don’t have to pull trigger. Not sure how to add pic on these replies but I’ll try. For larger holes I have a Vevor CH-70 punch tool and Vevor model GYB-700A hydraulic pump to power it. No problem punching up to 25mm dia holes in 3/8” mild steel.

​@CustomCreations3 can you show a video of this... how you make the g code to punching?

@rreyff not sure I follow. Are we talking about the pierce-only programming that the guy had on the Langmuir forum followed by a punch to finish the hole?

THX! I use a small vac, boy is it messy to clean the hose afterwards!!! :( I started putting a rolled up piece of coarse scotch-brite into the drain openings...it still allows fluid flow but stops the debris that tends to clog. Also I started using a magnetic pickup tool from Harbor freight every between cleanings. (www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-magnetic-pickup-tool-42288.html) It fits between the slats and allows me to pick up all the cut pieces in the tray and also the fine steel "dust" that become sludge in the bottom of the table. I use a wide blade putty knofe to scrape the debris off the pickup tool into a can.

Thx…glad it was useful

Thx for those kind words. I’m not bothered but folks that rag me about my slow speech nor at my age am I going to try and change. So have joked that they play the video in 2x speed and it helps 🤣. Glad to know the info was useful

They were for me as I am a newbie for 3 axis CAM. The stock was pretty cheap and all the items used the same 1”x2” rectangular aluminum cut at different lengths depending on the exercise. The part features across the 10 exercises were quite diverse so I think “real jobs” will have similar features and I’ll know how to machine them…we will see! Even the CAD part was useful as I learned some fusion techniques I haven’t used before. The one thing is that they didn’t do the side 2 OP and for some like 10M which had a slope I struggled to come up with a tool path strategy. Even though the titan parts are not used for anything “real”, I think if a customer is asking for some CNC milled parts and wants to see some examples of what I have made the items will give me some things to show.

@@CustomCreations3 are you using fusion or mastercam? I plan on buying a mr1 later this year. I’ve been doing cad and 3d printing for about 3 years. I bought a cheap 3018 cnc to help me learn the cam side while also studying one of Peter Smid’s books. I’m a truck driver by trade and trying to juggle work , home and educating myself is a challenge. I’m hoping to get out of the truck eventually.

I’m using fusion but the titan training does have mastercam tutorials for all the parts as well also solid works. Sounds like you have built up the cam experience in the 3D printing and 3018 router so the titan training may not be as useful to you. I spend lots of time on KZbin especially at NYC CNC’s website as they have great CAM tutorials. This country runs on items delivered via truck…you folks are critical to the economy but if you are long haul the time away from home and family has to be tough. Even local truckers got a tough job!

Glad to know it was useful! Thx for the kind words!

WOW! I did get the assembly for $1000 deal...would probably have chosen the self-build option if it was $2495!!!!

yes, it was 995 for the first yr or so.

Thx John but I've read pretty much all your posts and replies to questions on the Langmuir forum and YOU are the one that should be doing these videos!!! 😜

@@CustomCreations3 You are a born teacher my friend. I truly love your videos. My Crossfire pro has your D&N has your drag chain system.

Beginning to feel my head swell from those kind of compliments 😈🤓

some of folks that commented had some good ideas to make it better...be sure and look them over and incorporate their improvements. thx

Hey Steven...great to hear from you. You getting any work out of that CNC router these days?

Not really. Got to clean out the garage and keep it cleaned. Or get busy building the 50x150 shop ;) @@CustomCreations3

I see lots of folks when they get their machine built machining shapes specifically to verify dimensional accuracy. Got to admit I havent done that yet but your question made me want to put it on my to-do list. I'll report findings when I do...thx

That would be a divine miracle in my case :)

Hope you do go to work fro Langmuir...I'll have a contact when I need help! :)