Nice

Like new camera view. Also can we get a bike check? Ive ridden that trail a lot but its been so hot havent been out that way in awhile.

A video how to replace the Shift solenoid?

This is not the Shift solenoid

p

Great video, thanks.

cool

Last time I saw this route was during the pandemic, a lot changed, especially that pedestrian bridge over 75. Thanks for this.

You took Cromwell to get there, it's a nice street. Unfortunately I live south of where Cromwell starts and the folks in my area drive like maniacs so biking to the NRT is too dangerous. Thanks for this though, I really want to try this route someday.

Buena terapia de relax. El ejercicio libera la dopamina.

Muy ilustrativo y la vez hermosa especie

What kind of a recording/camera system do you use and how do you like it?

Thank you for uploading this.

Robin or Oriole?

Now THAT is good cardio! You must have been doing at least 50!

Saludos Peter

Poorly done!

Wow.. awesome footage.

Thanks Thooks..very well detailed..ima gonna use yer steps to do my brakes

my friend, thanks for your intentions, but I can't follow you. bad video

What a shit video.

Mann...How to remove the back part (numbers 1,2,3). This wasnt helpful at all. HOW TO REMOVE THE ASSEMBLY NEXT TO THE WINDSHIELD!!!

This was trash.. the rear plugs are much harder to get to and definitely not the same effort as the front

How long does the effect last?

If you can put the new brakes in with calipers in place why couldn't you remove the old ones with caliper in place ?

I feel dizzy

Messy! Sloppy Not instructional,

There is a lot wrong in this video....or I should say you missed some very important items. 1. NEVER push the pistons back into the cylinder without opening the bleeder screw. You are pushing old brake fluid back into the system. Open the bleeder screw then push the pads back (it's also MUCH easier this way), close the screw, remove the pads. 2. Yes, cleaning the hub with a wire brush/wheel/cup is good. Then you spray it off with brake cleaner and wipe it down. Next apply some copper anti-seize to the hub and rotor mating surfaces. 3. Spray the caliper down with brake clean and clean the faces of piston and mating surfaces of the caliper and pad backer plate with a flat file....carefully. Inspect the caliper boots for cracks/tearing. 4. Put the new rotor on, then the caliper. 5. Use all OEM brake components. Use Toyota grease. 6. You didn't save the shims nor did you get a new shim kit. You need to use the OEM shims in the correct order. Grease the shims to the pads, grease the mating surfaces of the backer plate and caliper. Install the pads. Use new brake hardware (pins, clips, etc.) Grease the pins. 7. Take a rag/towel and wet it down with brake clean. Wipe the inner and outer surfaces of the rotor while spinning the hub to clean the rotor faces. 8. Finally, open the brake fluid reservoir, fill to the top with DOT 3 and bleed the caliper. Keep the reservoir full.

It would be really nice if your title indicated that you are only doing the front brakes. I had to watch a lot of your video to find this out. If you assume people know what end of the vehicle you are fixing you and an ASS out of U and ME. EZ John

Stupid ryhtmbox makes stupid noise

Did any of them break? And how many miles did it have on it before replacing?

Didn’t even show how to do the back

Removing the alternator and rear cover was no sweat, but the last screw on the regulator was a bitch.

With dumb music the voice is difficult to hear.

You forgot to mention one big thing. The rear of the motor on the right side when you are doing the first plug it is really really tight there since the coil is somewhat being blocked by hose that splits.(of course it has to be right on top of where you need to go lol) . Otherwise thank you for the information you were dead on. Saved me some money. Thanks again.😁

My 2013 tundra has 36k of light use no towing or hard stopping and back roators/brakes are shot and did not pass inspection! Original Front brakes/rotors are fine. I can't imagine what would cause that to happen. No off roading or anything like that. This video wll come in handy for replacement this weekend.

Peter, just curious. I have ~72000 miles on my 2013 tundra. Provided the rotors are smooth (no warping from overheating), are the needed or could a guy just do pads?

Okay I live in Tolar near Santo how do I find more races for FPV Racing?

clamps good, bungie cord good. air spary bad. try brake cleaner spray.

hey if I only need right one replaced could I only jack up 1 side and take off that wheel with same effect. or is it required to do both tiers

I had the same problem. There is actually an very easy fix for this without having to go through all this work. Buy a 1-1/2" to 1-1/2" plumbing pipe flex connection sleeve from OSH, grey in color, not black colored ones. One end fits over what's left of the accordion part of filler tube. The other end of sleeve fits perfectly on the filler tube it self from engine side. Just use a pair of scissors to trim off the remaining accordion rib that is left (1 ring on mine). Slip plumbing joint sleeve over that end and tighten both clamp down, don't over tighten them. Bends at the joint too, just like the original. Took me 15 minutes to fix and cost 6.00 for the flex sleeve. I'll post a video here soon.

Will this work for TRD off-road? Also are the parts different in TRD off-road? Which rotors did you use and pads? Do you like them so far?

u make it look so easy lol do u have to take the whole tire out??

I am going to assume it was 74 ft lbs of torque

nice ur help me a lot

....still open now? :)

Nice

does the copilot actually help if someone don't really know how to fly

too awesome. the srd260 flies like that straight out of the box?

Great work! Awesome Cars to.