And I'm glad someone appreciated that :D Hehehe

I honestly get more nervous with modern synths as it is more of a mystery and way more compact. These old beauties are a pleasure to work on. Everything in there makes sense and the schematic makes it really easy to figure out what is going on. I promise that I was very careful! Hopefully I didn't make you too nervous! LOL Thanks for watching! :D

@@Nordl3 if mine starts to become faulty, i may get in touch, it has had a diode on one of the filters replaced and i suspect some other components may be reaching the end of their life given the age of the machine. The Yamaha CS range does seem robustly built but nothing last forever does it!

@@fuccasound3897 Yeah, please do. I'd be happy to help! :D

@@Nordl3 Thank You!

Removing the battery is fairly easy once you get the thing open. By the time you reach the battery you will have shaken off all the jitters and be nicely warmed up ready to pluck that sucker out of there like it was a triple A. My top tips are: 1 - Video EVERYTHING... and take as many photos as possible if you also have a 2nd phone. 2 - Make/get a dozen little boxes for putting all the different screws into. Label them all well. 3 - Write on the cables so you remember which side faces up or whatever. It's definitely more tedious than difficult. A very nicely made machine, and a pleasure to service. Good Luck! Feel free to ask more questions!

Yikes, £5k-7k!!? Far too rich for my blood. They do sound superb though so maybe if I won the lotto or something... One must dream! :p

@@Nordl3 I saved for 2 years. Expensive? Yes... But I wanted a real Electro-Acoustic piano, not a Virtual Synth with a weighted keyboard... I'm sure you'd have greater flexibility with a Nord Lead, or a Korg SV-2, but I wanted the feel of a hammer hitting a tine... I wanted that "authenticity"...

@@Anamnesia Yeah, there really is nothing electronic or virtual that even comes close to that authentic Rhodes sound. Fair played to you sir, I have have saved for big synths before but as soon as the wind blows the wrong way I feel the weight of my expensive luxury and I have always ended up buying high and selling low, like a fool. Now, fixing synths as a hobby satisfies my exploratory desires and my need to build things. This way I'm not spending on synths or components to make synths. In fact, they actually pay me to do something I enjoy! Seeing people's relief and joy when I hand them back a newly repaired item is satisfying enough to feel guilty charging for my time! LOL

Very silky gliss for sure. Hours of fun!

Yeah, I know sorry. I only recently figured out how to set it to manual focus but I forgot to lock it before videoing this. DOH!... Next time. :D

Hi Alex, you should get in touch with Denon. Their customer support is excellent and they are fast at responding. I don't own one of these so I don't know the workings of it very well. Sorry I can not be of more assistance. Let me know how you get on there and Good Luck!

Hi Lee, yes I could possibly do that. Is it the cross fader or the volume or pitch fader that is faulty? Please describe the fault with as much detail as possible. If the fader needs replacing, either you or I will need to get a replacement from Denon which might take a few weeks depending on whether they have it in stock. Cheers, Kevin.

Oh yeah!

Hi Dagm! You are very welcome. I recommend recording the job so that you can retrace your steps if you forget something. Take photos of everything as you go and get a load of little tubs or something to put all the screws and nuts etc into and keep them from getting mixed up or lost. Good Luck!

Cheers Baz!

How did it fall out? Did you have it open for repair? If the wheel feel off during normal use then the circlip that holds it in place must be still inside. If it sheared off from damage then you might be able to disassemble the unit, repair the jog wheel or replace it. Good Luck!

Cheers Joshua! Yeah parts of it are (Kick & Bass) and some are post jam VST additions (pads etc) in Ableton.

Cheers Joshua! I designed and prototyped this for a company I was working for a few years back, but we never did finish the final product. I got as far as recording the whole schematic into Eagle (There was a mixer section and some other parts that were added after this video). When world came to a halt, so too did production of this project... I was recently speaking to my old colleague, who was doing the Eagle layout on this. We talked about finishing it and he still has all the files for it (as do I) so who knows, maybe sometime a PCB will emerge but I have long since repurposed these parts and bread boards so it would probably be a start from scratch(ish) project if were ever to fly again. Yeah I have looked at that CEM3394 chip a lot and have the same desire to explore it! It's on my to-do list for sure! If you don't like the resonance bass droop on the 3320 style filter, then check out SSI's 2164 "fix" in the wonderful 'app notes'. I used the same method with the stereo 3320 based VCA/distortion/LP/HPVCA behemoth project and I love the sound! It should work on the 3394 too IIRC. The fix is a must in my opinion. No droopy bass for me please! LOL

The folks over at Omnitronic support are *REALLY* helpful and cool. Open a support ticket with them and see what comes of it. You can always keep working on the mixer while you wait for a reply. I'm sure they have encountered this problem before and know EXACTLY which part fails and needs replaced. That's how I was able to fix this so easily. They told me which part to buy and gave me diagrams of the PCB. Let me know how you fare! GOOD LUCK!

Sorry friend, I no longer have this device. You can see the bottom side of the cross fader around @24:00 (at top of image) and the top side of it (at bottom of image) @25:00. It looks like a standard Bourns or Alps fader (slide potentiometer). 4 pins on the left side (in a straight line - not staggered) and 2 pins on the right side. It looks to be around 60 or 80mm of travel. Desoldering the old fader will allow you to measure the dimensions and resistance and it might even reveal the exact manufacturer part number if you are lucky but I would bet that the taper is linear and resistance 10k. Hopefully this helps. Good Luck!

Puede obtener la batería directamente de Denon. Tienen muy buen soporte y son muy útiles.

You are welcome.

Szia Dj Krause! Sorry friend, I only had this device in the shop for customer repairs. I gave it back to the customer months ago. However, I did contact Denon support team to try and get a replacement button and their support team was really good and very helpful. They replied quickly and within a couple of weeks the part was in stock. They contacted me to see if I still needed the part but I did not need it at that point. I think if you contact them there is a very good chance that they will supply you with a replacement battery and as you can see from my video, it is fairly easy to replace - No soldering required! Good Luck! P.S. Please let me know how you fare, I always like to know how these things go for future reference. Emellett nagyon szép tánc mixek!

@@Nordl3 THank you for the answer. if it"s problem ask the denon, Numark support. I haven't used it for a long time my Numark mixstream pro go. I like it so far and it's good and i hope without any problem or maybe few problem wich is resulting from use.

Hi Raymond, @5:33 you can see 2 orange coloured "flat flex" ribbon cables and a white "JST" cable running between them? Those 3 connectors are the only connections going to the touch screen so the problem is very likely one of those. My guess is that you have either installed a ribbon cable upside down or not instered it fully. You can see that I have labelled all ribbon cables on the side facing up with the word UP. Hopefully my video can help you find the problem. Let me know if you have anymore questions and I will try to help where I can and also let me know if you find the problem! GOOD LUCK!

@@Nordl3 It seems like its the JST cable that broke when trying to disassemble. Do you know exactly which model and specs it is? thanks alot

@@RanchayHi Raymond, as far as I can remember the connectors are JST-XH 2.54mm pitch (pitch = pin spacing). There's a 2 pin one and a 5 (maybe 6) pin one on the network board. You can buy a "JST XH kit" on Amazon or eBay for a few bucks. That should have all you need. JST is definitely a very good connector but they are compatible with Dupont jumper cables if you have any of those. Both are 2.54mm pitch. If you are in a major hurry you could always cut the connectors off and solder them direct to the main PCB. I'd highly recommend getting the JST kit though. Good Luck!

I didn't really do any circuit analysis on this device, but the daughter board I removed @2:16 has all the network stuff on it. Did you have your PrimeGo dismantled for repair? If so, perhaps there could be a ribbon cable installed upside down. The network board has one of those antennas that uses a really tricky little connector which you can see me struggle to reconnect @46:21. If you have not dismantled the device then I would suggest to try a reinstall of the firmware. I would presume this can be done via USB or SD card since wifi and ethernet are malfunctioning. Let me know how you fare. GOOD LUCK!

@Nordl3 thanks for responding. I've updated the firmware. Maybe they're not related, but Blue Tooth works fine. Yes, I watched your video again. I'm contemplating sending the unit in for repair. I'm wondering if I even need it. Thanks again

@@anthonyirving6728 I know a few people with this exact device, it is very popular. I'd appreciate it if you let me know how it goes with support. They were very good and helpful with me but could not provide any service manuals, only spare parts.

Glad you liked it! It should be an easy fix once you get all those circuit boards out of the way. Good luck!

For sure. You could add anything to it. since there's loads of space inside it for PCBs and on the front panel. A Master reverb module would be pretty useful with a HPF after it. Maybe a VCA with a sidechain. The possibillities are endless really... The Baxandall EQ's on each channel sound really beautiful so I wouldn't touch those or the "Blue Velvet" Alps Pots.

@@Nordl3 Iv'e heard the term ' Baxandall EQ' before but never dug further, didn't realise the EQs on this mixer were particularly special Interesting suggestions, I was thinking more in terms of 'audiophile' type upgrades. Swapping op amps etc. Or do you think thats all a bit pointless. I had a Master Sounds for a while but honestly couldn't hear much difference and thought the TRM was such good value for what it is I ended up keeping it.

​@@s_9878 You could always try a different opamp on each of the 4 phono channels and decide which you prefer but I wouldn't bother. I'm not an audiophile - if it ain't broke don't fix it I reckon.. The NJM4580M is well suited, sounds great and it's an oddball footprint (DMP8), although it looks fairly close to SOIC8... I was tempted to try a different opamp but since this was a repair for a customer, I just bought the correct part. The TRM-402 is a really good price for what you get. You couldn't come close to that price if you were designing and building only one or two DIY units, when all is said and done. The Alps Blue Velvet pots are ~£15 each!! There's 7 of them in each unit!

Gracias mi amigo!

Cheers bro!

I gave this back to the customer already so I won't be able to look at it again any time soon. But I'm sure you could add EQ to the Mic input(s).It would be a lot of effort though and it would be easier to run your mic through a seperate EQ first. Something like a guitar pedal or Vocal processor.

@@Nordl3 thanks i kind of figured that. That little machine is awesome except for that flaw

@@StevieRayEntertainme I never played on it but it is very well made and just seems a great little handy dandy DJ box.

@@Nordl3 great. I will. Thank you.