Auguste88

Пікірлер

@Blackhawk7O6 2 ай бұрын

Can you tell when you took this apart if the disk holding the vanes in place can be moved? I'm starting on a similar longitudinal CJAA swap soon and I'm trying to figure out if the turbo is clockable. Otherwise, thanks for the videos, dunno how I've missed them so far...I was pretty sure I had already found all the common rail swap content out there during my research.

@teceit 2 ай бұрын

Watching you use torx on the triple squares for the main crank bolts hurt my soul. I'm sorry but you really shouldn't be working on engines.

@Auguste88 2 ай бұрын

@@teceit lol, I since acquired the proper tools. I will rate my next video PG just for you.

@bryangardner4370 2 ай бұрын

great job, so little information for DIY guys, check for parts before you tear down (some are no longer available...ANYWHERE) use a rubber band on the hidden bearings for reassembly,

@martinpena7587 5 ай бұрын

Where I can get book rebuild transmission nv3500

@Auguste88 5 ай бұрын

@@martinpena7587 Jeep TJ maintenance manual

@mattkemner5199 6 ай бұрын

Great help! I'm pulling mine apart. T belt came off when driving and it was catastrophic... I have the same crank locking tool. Is there a better one you know of? I don't like the way the teeth mate up with the pully.

@Auguste88 6 ай бұрын

Oh man, I agree that tool is sketch at best... I am still collecting parts for my rebuild so I can't vouch for it, but I have a couple of cheap crankshaft seal installing tool in my Amazon basket as well... Going down the rabbit hole! Once I go through the whole thing I will upload a video. Meanwhile, good luck!

@mattkemner5199 6 ай бұрын

@@Auguste88 Thanks, Please do post!

@ZagyVU 2 ай бұрын

Nothing wrong with that tool, you just need to slide it on from the front of pulley. If you put it on from the top before locating pin goes in, it will not mate properly. It’s toothed and curved.

@randylahey2242 14 күн бұрын

how many miles were on the belt when it let go?

@jeanpolanco6230 6 ай бұрын

have you seen any improvement with npboosted cartridge?

@Auguste88 6 ай бұрын

Yes I did but I am not sure if it's because of the new cartridge or it actually increase the performance. But I ordered a new tune setup so I can change it easily and will do further testing.

@71lane 10 ай бұрын

I also have the 3x3 and full Yoshi system on my DRZ. Just ordered a cvk40 to do the mod and I am wondering what you used for your jetting? And at what altitude

@Auguste88 10 ай бұрын

Oh I can't remember it's been so long. Check my CVK videos I think it's in there somewhere.

@danisibaja 10 ай бұрын

How do you replace the bearing behind the output shaft seal (16:32 min)? You can do it the same way you replace the output shaft seal?

@Auguste88 10 ай бұрын

No you would need to knock it out with a punch or a bearing sledge. I have yet to pull mine out, my other transmission is good so far. Good luck!

@danisibaja 10 ай бұрын

@@Auguste88 Thanks, a bad bearing like the one un your video can cause an oil leak? I replaced the output Shaft seal on my Jeep but it's still leaking oil and I punch the bearing cap with a screwdriver so I'm thinking that can be the problem

@Auguste88 10 ай бұрын

@@danisibaja that could be hard to say. Although the cap on the bearing is there to retain oil against the balls to protect and limit friction. Not sure to what extent a puncture in the cap would factor in your leak problem. I would change it. Don't forget you need to apply liquid gasket on that cover as well.

@danisibaja 10 ай бұрын

@@Auguste88 ok, thank you for your help and time!

@kit.30 Жыл бұрын

beautiful camerawork on this one 👍

@Auguste88 Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@MrIEatFingers Жыл бұрын

Would you be willing to sell one of these? They looks great man! Maybe you can make a mold from the fiberglass?

@Auguste88 Жыл бұрын

That's what I did. I don't have the bike anymore so I lost interest.. I still have the mold though.

@bearsmartdurango Жыл бұрын

??????

@johnlatham6382 Жыл бұрын

Well done. Do you know of any way to get the reverse idler support bolt back in while it still mounted. I thought I was pulling out the fill plug.

@Auguste88 Жыл бұрын

Mine just screw back in. The support treaded hole need to line up with the case hole and it should screw right in. If the transmission is still all together I would try to line it up with a screw driver and a flashlight. If it's an option it might be easier with that side facing up. Good luck!

@johnlatham6382 Жыл бұрын

@Auguste88 Got it, used 2 small flat heads to walk it into position in the bolt hole. then some wire to hold it position and then treaded the bolt and pulled the wire at the same time. It was a pain but so happy I didn't have to drop the transmission.

@Jeepm0de01 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing. Looking to tackle this over the next couple weeks 👍

@jayjay-xz9sc Жыл бұрын

You did a good job just saw the rebuild

@Auguste88 Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

@jayjay-xz9sc Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info

@jayjay-xz9sc Жыл бұрын

Nice looking bolens! What engine did you swap in?

@Auguste88 Жыл бұрын

www.princessauto.com/en/420cc-ohv-gas-engine-with-electric-start/product/PA0008628265

@yjoem1 2 жыл бұрын

Is this a rerun

@Auguste88 2 жыл бұрын

Some like that lol... Got it out for a run today and works good.

@yjoem1 2 жыл бұрын

@@Auguste88 ya I’m ready c how the new engine turned out

@rfcmironchuck8628 2 жыл бұрын

Salut , l'actuateur du turbo s'ajuste avec vcds, tu doit avoir de 0.7v à 3.5v à full vacuum dans les datas

@rfcmironchuck8628 2 жыл бұрын

Mais ce n'est pas ton plus gros problème, désolant mais le bruit est vraiment intense.. :/

@Auguste88 2 жыл бұрын

T'es sûr? Il faut quand même que je positionne les vannes sur la rod de l'actuateur, non?

@rfcmironchuck8628 2 жыл бұрын

Oui , avec ta pompe manuelle tu l'as fait bouger et tu prend la lecture sur vcds. Tu le fais manuellement mais en live data

@Auguste88 2 жыл бұрын

@@rfcmironchuck8628 ok merci, je vais essayer de faire ça!

@rfcmironchuck8628 2 жыл бұрын

Tu ne devrais pas avoir de boost sur place, seulement quand le moteur a une load. 3-4psi seulement peut etre.

@Auguste88 2 жыл бұрын

Ok cool, merci! C'est ça que j'ai maintenant, tout le temps, sur place. Je pense pouvoir tester en roulant aujourd'hui.

@yjoem1 2 жыл бұрын

Great job man I love it.

@Auguste88 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

@yjoem1 2 жыл бұрын

What engine did u go with for install

@Auguste88 2 жыл бұрын

CJAA 2013

@yjoem1 2 жыл бұрын

Good job like the video's its lot help im getting ready do the plunge on mine ur video have realy help think this through

@andrewbozhozr 2 жыл бұрын

... it's a little... KKK if you ask me :D

@Auguste88 2 жыл бұрын

Oh my god, I don't think I could never unsee that.... It had stickers later on...

@andrewbozhozr 2 жыл бұрын

@@Auguste88 :D jokes aside, great job, looking to do something similar for my CRF

@mrcla55yguy20 2 жыл бұрын

You have any vids where you do a walk around for that bike? Looks awesome in the pic

@Auguste88 2 жыл бұрын

Unfortunately I sold this bike a few years back, sorry!

@mrcla55yguy20 2 жыл бұрын

@@Auguste88 great looking bike. Hope you got something cool now. Only thing I got for dual sporting is a hawk 250. Crf 300 rally is my dream bike😍. Plan to have it within a year

@jbhk7977 2 жыл бұрын

I hope you will change the drive line angle in the rear . . . great project though ;-)

@Auguste88 2 жыл бұрын

Yes, it's not pretty... Gonna have to address that down the road for sure. Thanks!

@michaellora7029 2 жыл бұрын

Great work!

@michaellora7029 2 жыл бұрын

Thus is awsome I will be subscribing I'm also building a jeep from a empty chassis

@magas_tou_votanikou 2 жыл бұрын

Exactly what I was looking for, wonderful job!

@hudhudhudhud932 3 жыл бұрын

Can I have the phone number of the person who designs these fiberglass parts?

@Auguste88 3 жыл бұрын

You give me your information and I'll contact you.

@marcusbevz6500 3 жыл бұрын

Hey, nice shield, is it hard to make them?

@Auguste88 3 жыл бұрын

A little tedious and messy but fairly straight forward.

@marcusbevz6500 3 жыл бұрын

@@Auguste88 fiberglass right?

@boblkc 3 жыл бұрын

Sorry to leave a comment on a video which was uploaded 4 years ago. I am thinking to upgrade my DRZ400 stock carb to CVK40 and found your another video showing the process, and now I see this video that you have upgraded from CVK40 to FCR41MX, how do you compare the two carbs, in terms of performance and fuel economy? Thanks!

@Auguste88 3 жыл бұрын

CVK is easier to work with and dial in. Slight performance increase with the FCR but significantly use more fuel..

@boblkc 3 жыл бұрын

@@Auguste88 Thanks for your reply! Actually I can get a FCR39MX from one of my friends, but im just worried about fuel mileage and its sensitivity to weather since im riding it for commute everyday and im not sure whether i can jet it right. Thats why im thinking a CVK40 might be a good pick for performance increase. BTW, did you change the throttle tube for CVK40? Thanks

@Auguste88 3 жыл бұрын

@@boblkc yes I did. Quick throttle makes it night and day...a must!

@boblkc 3 жыл бұрын

@@Auguste88 May i know which one you have used on the CVK40? I have the Zeta one installed on my DRZ now, and it seems i need to do modify the throttle cable to fit the carb (sorry i have not read through all the instructions on forum)

@Auguste88 3 жыл бұрын

@@boblkc sorry I can't remember exactly but it must have been from one of my previous bike. Maybe a CRF450 2002 throttle... I can't help you with that, sorry.

@miquelsalto31 3 жыл бұрын

Which thank is it?

@Auguste88 3 жыл бұрын

IMS asin B007GREP9M

@louvega8414 3 жыл бұрын

That feeling when you get up at 1am and you gotta work on your. Ike....shhhhh.

@99taslow 3 жыл бұрын

Do you have a link for the stepper motors?

@Auguste88 3 жыл бұрын

www.ebay.com/itm/323269728719 Not exactly the same but same seller and same specs excepted mine are not dual shaft.

@GardenTractorBoy 3 жыл бұрын

Great job on rebuilding the 1253. It is good that you have the original 1253 seat frame

@Auguste88 3 жыл бұрын

I didn't know it was the original seat, thanks!

@GardenTractorBoy 3 жыл бұрын

@@Auguste88 The Bolens 1253 is an interesting tractor, only made for one year, 1970 and had a unique seat frame design

@kentvandervelden 3 жыл бұрын

While no longer part of US-PPSEL training in the late 90s, an instructor walked me through doing this in an old C172. It was at night and a great experience! The transition was fast, smooth, and forces on my body were nothing like I expected. And escape counterintuitive. It's really cool to see your airspeed indicator go to zero. Spin recovery should be mandatory training as should instrument training. I had good instructors. Man, I miss flying.

@nicolasvaca9377 4 жыл бұрын

Hi, thanks for the video, I’ll try it soon Bro, I’m from Latino America and I’d like to know what material it is, if u could tell me the name of the material I could search it in my city and maybe make my own drz fairing

@Auguste88 4 жыл бұрын

Not sure how you can source it but it's straight up fiber glass / fiberglass blankets with epoxy. For the mold you just need to use wax and then paint with gel coat. After you fiber glass on top of the gel coat. Once everything is dry the wax will release the fiberglass from the part and leave you with a nice gel coat finish. I hope it makes sense and good luck!

@ronanrogers4127 4 жыл бұрын

Can you remember what jets, needle and needle position you used? I have a 472cc.

@Auguste88 4 жыл бұрын

No I can't remember sorry... I do remember finding a Excel sheet on thumper talk with all the jetings for all carbs/mods variant and based my setup on that.

@tobiism 4 жыл бұрын

Very nice work. I'm impressed. I've toyed with the idea of building my own rally fairing. How durable has it been? Has it survived any crashes?

@jagb1975 4 жыл бұрын

orrible

@dave32228 4 жыл бұрын

What material did you use to start out your basic shape

@ronanrogers4127 5 жыл бұрын

Nice work. I could see the fuel being drawn into the lines, I assume by vacuum. I like how your plumbed the new lines into the original petcock line. It just needs tidying up a little IMO. For safety I’d probably use stainless sheathed fuel lines, especially the crossover line from the far side over the engine. Well done.

@MickE98 5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the videos,just got my cvk waiting on the dynojet kit.

@robraver 5 жыл бұрын

I would have gone with twin LEDs for the lights

@Auguste88 5 жыл бұрын

It would have look better but I wanted to keep the original headlight bracket/harness

@justfly2010 6 жыл бұрын

Hi there I am very impressed with your mods on your drz.. And I have a Drz 400e which is flat carburetor which I removed the vacuum part also a simple fuel valve for the tank everything is fine but I like the fact to have a back up shutoff system like yours.. My question is that a vacuum fuel valve or a pump because I don't see any power going into that.. I am guessing it's just opening up a diaphragm inside the housing when one of your red line is connected to the engine vaccum suction right? Please reply I want to do this mod thanks cheers Harsha.

@Auguste88 6 жыл бұрын

Thanks Harsha! You are correct, its a diaphragm moving back and forth on top of a chamber. There is a one way valve on the input and output of the chamber providing fuel transfer through différential pressure. Simple and efficient really. It is useful for fuel system that include fuel cell lower than the carb. I hope that I answer your question, good luck with your project.

@justfly2010 6 жыл бұрын

@@Auguste88 Thanks for the speedy reply, I want order this part so you have any suggestions on how to buy? My whole idea of eliminating the vacume is to avoid accidental sucking of fuel when the diaphragm fails! Correct me if I am wrong. So I also thought about putting a 12vlt fuel solenoid valve so that fuel only flows when the key is on. Last question is do you have any changes in carb settings because the flow that I see from that device is pretty fast. Thanks again. Your help is very much appreciated :)

@Auguste88 6 жыл бұрын

@@justfly2010 I bought a few from Ebay a while ago. I remember them being cheap. This is very much fail safe design. Granted a 12v selenoid valve is a clever idea! I had a return line going back to the tank when I was using this. It prevent pressure build up in the carb bowl. I like simple so it cant fail. No rejeting was required for me at sea level. Mind that I was using a FCR41 with big bore.