Hiya so I get the bridging off the 3 at the amp chip .but why does one need to bridge the speaker wire connections +&- for each channel (L&R) surely (with my limited intelligence) they can be left to run a 2nd sub should one want too (in mono ) where the impedance of the 2 subs (ohms) fall within the criteria this creating even a better sound and less drain etc on the amp and obviously the one sub if going with 2 subs ? (Or am I been thick )

My neighbor has a bunch of these speakers he doesn't use anymore (used to use them at a restaurant), would it be not too difficult to mod them such that they take a physical input so you can use them as regular speakers?

Can you hack it to use bluetooth?

can i please get the firmware? thanks

Nice job, you have a lot of knowledge about this. Any option to ad aux input to the Symfonisk?

Great instruction and explanation- superb! Thank you so much!!! Have you ever tried to get a signal (line in) directly from the dac? Or any chance to get a pre amp signal to use external power amp? ---- Sorry to waste your time. You already answered my question in your original instruction. Awesome

Hello Tyler, Thanks for your video, I'm currently in the process of converting some Symfonisk amplifiers for my new home. I took the Gen2 Symfonisk and also saw the instructions on your website. Am I correct that pins 10/11 on the Gen2 no longer have to be desoldered like on the Gen1 or the conductor tracks have to be cut? That should sort of take care of itself if I desolder the capacitors, right? Thanks also for the 3D plans for the case. Best regards, Manuel

Years ago I had modified one of these following the first version of your guide... and i had accidentally torn C16 off the board in the process. Followed the rest of the steps and it seemed to work fine anyways. Well, I had some time twiddling my thumbs, and decided to finally mod the second speaker to match. I did a better job, didn't break off any components... and it sounded way worse! Even after truplay tuning. So, I ripped off C16 to match the first speaker, heh. sounds great again! Printing out a couple of the cases now. Going to use gen2 boards from now on those look way easier to mod. Thanks again! Jesse

I just took a gen 2 apart and it looks quite a bit different from what is in the video. drive.google.com/file/d/1j7-2V9PCWT9Y78bpnVuO8H_O4S71Pin-/view?usp=sharing

I wonder if you can skip the small-scale hacking on the PCB and instead split the tweeter/woofer connections on the ceiling unit and wire directly in to them. Probably assumes the frequency cutoff would be roughly the same as in the IKEA speaker, not sure what it would be like if it was off

I just received this printer as a gift, I found your series of just getting started with this printer very helpful! 🤓

I picked up a Monoprice Mini V1 3d printer at the local Goodwill Outlet store for about $8.00. This was my first 3d printer. Electrical item are sold by the pound. I orfered the correct power brick off of Amazon, 12volt 10amp. It needed some help. Thanks to various you tube videos I got it up and running. Anyway I was doing a filiment guide print and at about the 50% mark it died as in no power. I tried the backup power brick and still no power. I tried jumping the on-switch and still no power. There are some videos that says the wires on the heated build plate can cause a short, but I did not see any signs of chafing. Any ideas why there would be no power? This is actually a pretty neat little printer. Any ideas as to why there would be no power? Both power bricks are good. Thanks.

Great modification - soldered the pins but the bridged signal is very low-any ideas on why? Could it be connections between the capacitors?

WoW! I been wainting to do this so long, thank you so much for sharing, I bought a symfonisk online, ended up being a v2...... I've read you article on V2, do you still have plans to share a video for the new version, and perhaps I can show my gratitude my puruchasing the box from you if you can add Japan as a shipment destination. I hope you can considerm but if not, I just want to say thank you!

Hey there! Great tutorial 🙏 I am planing to connect two CCM 664 (8 Ohm, 130W) with two Symfonisk boards. In the thread it reads that 8 Ohm are not going to get 100W, is that right? As the speaker just has one input I guess I have to go with the bridged/modded version correct? Once the setup is working, I am planing to put some boards into a 19inch rack enclosure, potentially replacing multiple power supplies with one bigger, let’s see - just started ;) one more question, I am only interested in LAN, no need for WiFi, can I just leave the antennas out to safe space? I heard that without antennas the board is getting warmer?

Up to how many celing speakers I can connect to the MOD amp? Thanks! Awesome tutorial!

How on earth do you get the bottom 2 screws out of the power supply in the gen2 enclosure?? THANKS!

This is great and truly appreciated. I am hoping this is the solution to a rather odd issue I just began to encounter on a lightly used MP select mini V2 I was gifted a month ago. This is my first 3D printer so please be gentle. lol 2 days ago while printing with Duramic PLA+ @220° about 20 minutes into the print there was a slight smell of burning plastic. I got up to check and while standing there looking at it I saw a small wisp of smoke coming from the hotend. I looked at the temps and they had hit 330°. I quickly shut it off and let it cool. After about 10 min I turned it back on and ran a preheat check and all LOOKED good (except for the PTFE in the hot break - that was cooked and subsequently replaced) but while I had the nozzle temp set to 190° it began running up to 250 and by the time I managed to shut down the preheat it had spiked to 270 even though it was still set to 190. Bed temps never did anything like this though. I'd already run through over 2kg of hatchbox PLA with zero issues and the only thing I had changed, other than the filament, was the temps as per Duramic specs. My nozzle is pretty cooked now so still waiting on new ones to arrive but I am baffled as to what could cause this. I've checked, and rechecked, the thermistor and it measures out the same as multiple other 100K thermistor temp probes I have, and when I put it in place of the temp probe on one of my multimeters it outputs the same (and accurate) temp so I'm not sure the thermistor is the culprit here. If not then I have to suspect board or firmware issues. But how this could just happen out of the blue if it is a firmware issue is beyond me. Any thoughts, insights or suggestions are highly welcomed (and encouraged). If I can't figure this out I guess I'll just have to invest in something bigger. What a shame.😁

This is great. Found your article/blog post on Gen 2 and wondered when you might do a video?

Wow, amazing work. I had no idea you could bridge the amp but don’t have the skills to do what you did anyway. Curious why you didn’t just bi-amp the ceiling speakers by bypassing the passive crossovers, I’d assume that would be even better.

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 really cool build 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Thanks for an excellent guide! I’ve just finished up (I thought). I think I got the amp soldering/moving pins done correct, but maybe not. I get sound if I use just white(or blue)/red(or black), I also get sound when using blue+white and either red or black. However, if I use both red and black, the sound almost disappears. Any idea what i have done wrong?

Hi, nice work but I would like to do the 180 degree opposite! Ie., create an RCA in. Can you pull that off as well? I have the symfonisk flat panel speaners, and want to bypass the sonos part, ie replace the signal from the DAC to the amp by my own rca input because they sound really good and i want to put them in a 5.1 setup that is not sonos. I wonder if that can be done?

Bravo, ottimo lavoro! Good engineer, great job!

so people who have done this did you get good results with your speakers? what ceiling speakers would go good with this i plan to run 2 ceiling speakers as rears with a beam 2

I know the "show more" area has that this firmware update is only for V1 printers and not to do this on a V2. Which both v1 and v2 might not have been released when the video was originally recorded but why not edit the video titles say if the information is for the v1 or v2. Beginners aren't going to be able to ID the machine used in the video as v1 or v2 if they don't know the hotbeds are different between the two especially when both come in white color with the same decals on the front.

Do you think it's possible hack ikea speaker board in this way that all network and sonos interfaces are skipped and amp plays sound delivered by digital input such as spdif coax?

Thanks for the review! My job has a few of these 3d printers and so im trying to educate myself on both the model and 3d printers in general haha.

Is it possible to do the same with Sonos Play 1?

This is great! Any idea on if the Gen 2 can be hacked like this?

Seems like people are having trouble with volume when bridging the output to speakers. Maybe something to do with maximum ohms when using it in bridge mode?

Just wanted to say thank you. I've used this mod to drive some Kef Ci50 in-ceiling speakers for the bathrooms in our house... your guide was comprehensive, it works flawlessly and sounds better to my ear than the Sonos Amp I had temporarily hooked up for a fraction of the cost. Nice!

Just my first symfonisk amp up and running! One more to go, thanks for this awesome tutorial and the 3d print!

Will there be a guide for Gen2 Symfonisk?

House burnt down

42 hour print starting to doze off man

Need access to the Google drive says I need approval

How would you recommend pulling power off of the board for an LED light? I'm using a Symfonisk speaker to "upgrade" a vintage radio and would like to light up the dial. I could pull of 120V in series but is there a lower voltage available?

why doss my printer freeze when i put it on 600 percent

Hi, I have these two questions, if you can help answer, I appreciate: 1- I create pictures on autocad to turn it into format compatible for Cura Slices, but they are flat, how can the 3d printer make it into an object with 3D dimensions? I mean how I can do? the thickness needs to be specified? 2- Does this print have a range of max and min sizes of objects it can bring? well, i would like if there is a details manual about all these, but the manual when I bought the machine does not say or I miss somewhere?

Hi Tyler thanks for the written guide and video very helpful and put together excellently. I have a question I have 2 symfonisk guts for a project. I wanted to test both methods. I have a pair of wharfedale 9.1s and I have bi-amped one and performed this mod for the other. The modded version is giving me significantly less volume than the bi-amped version but from what you have mentioned in the vid and what is says on the TI data sheet it seems like the modded version should have a higher output. Have I done something wrong?

Hi Tyler is there another way to connect besides the USB port which is broken, I took the panel off to look at the internal usb and it is lifted up from the board, this is a used printer and lesson learned from buying a used machine, even though it was a really cheap buy. Could I replace the usb on the board or would that be a simple fix or complicated….looks like the internal usb is connected by small pins and soldiered to the board. Previous owner must have pulled the usb cord out the wrong way damaging the internal port from the board…just guessing. Any info would be great.

Hello, Would you make these to sell?

Who is watching in 2021 lol

Did you unplug live 220V power at 28 min?

Superb video and write-up on your website! If I desolder pins 6/7 on the DAC, and splice in the L/R audio signal from an auxiliary source, would I be able to use this as a speaker with an aux input? Would I have to buck/boost the input?

My knowledge is still too limited on this subject, but could you enlighten something for me: What is the benefit of bridging it to mono compared to using the given tweeter/woofer setup? Is it for using the Sonos at a full-range speaker (so just 1 usable input on the speaker, missing out half the frequency range when only connecting one pair of outputs to it)? Or is it to gain the added power-output (when is this necessary: from my understanding the 30W in stereo mode is ample power for most speakers). I'm curious, as I plan to use the symfonisk sonos on a 2-way Polk S20e to power it. And not sure if this mod would make sense for me or not :) Edit: Also, is it correct to assume that when creating the "passive summing mixer circuit" (as yondermogul at Instructables calls it) by combining the outputs, the cross-over frequency of the sonos amp is bypassed - and all is regulated via TruePlay?

Lol I don’t think you understand this is a budget printer

I absolutely love this. Thanks so much for putting this video together!

How many ohms is this amp