Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer Beginner's Guide (Part 6) - Adding the Glass Bed!

Sources for Borosilicate Glass -
McMasterCarr - www.mcmaster.c...
(5x5" or 5x7" are the proper sizes at 1/8" thick)
Amazon - www.amazon.com...
Aquanet extra/super hold hairspray - www.amazon.com...
or generally much cheaper at your local supermarket.
Stepped Drill bit(s) - www.harborfreig...
Blue Painters tape - www.amazon.com...

[@HenryLeib]

Thank you so much these videos super helpful!! Should send them to MP and have them make it part of the info to get started!

[@jafinch78]

Did you happen to review the glass used on officejet's or scanners? I have a bunch I've picked up from free online listings on Craigslist, Facebook and Offerup/Letgo. Neat to finally see some not completely homebrew 3D printer applications now that I am getting around to working with where I'm working. Thanks for sharing the insights! Really appreciate it!

[@RodanChi]

countersink an aluminum plate that i can't (easily) replace or sand down screws that i can grab at my local hardware store... tough choice.

[@thetylergibson]

Agreed. I sanded down the screws on my first Mini. Lots of ways to slice the tomato :)

[@timmusson4344]

Excellent! Thanks for putting in the work!

[@Fenlandia]

Why not just cut the corners off the glass and avoid having to drill into the printer bed?

[@thetylergibson]

With plate glass you can. I ruined a couple of pieces of borosilicate trying to cut the corners off. Your mileage may vary.

[@Fenlandia]

I ended up buying a Printinz bed and haven't looked back at glass since. The best part is flexing prints off it and they come off clean!

[@curiosity2314]

I have been going through your videos on V1 and they are excellent. Purchased a V2 and looking for information related. I would really like to get the piece of paper out of this scenario and find how many thousands or other we are looking for. I have gauges for cars that go paper thin, you never needed them at the time but now I can see a good use for them. Excellent series so far!

[@thetylergibson]

+Curiosity if you have gauges, you want to use a .05mm gauge to properly gap the nozzle to the bed. I'll have V2 videos up soon :)

[@elibutcher]

Since it's not damaging to have hairspray on the heated print bed, would it be a bad thing to just use a layer of hairspray to hold the glass in place (from sliding with the clips), to remove all layers of material between the glass and the metal heat bed? If the purpose of the painter's tape really is just to hold it in place, it doesn't seem like a bad idea to just use the hairspray instead. It's just a thought, but perhaps I'm missing something. Thanks! Also, this video series is the best series for a device setup that I've ever had the pleasure to follow. It's great!!! Have you given any thought to doing a series like this for the Monoprice Maker Select V2?

[@mrjoeyman]

Two questions; how many prints can you get out of the 5+ layers of hairspray? And can't you disable the stepper motors so you can move the bed and hot end by hand to level the bed? I would hate to think I had to do this stuff between every print!

[@SandyToesDetecting]

Did I miss something, why put hairspray on underside of glass ?

[@PennsyRailroad]

Have you investigated (with a video) the BuildTak magnetic plate solution instead of the glass?

[@GentleGiantDK]

Curious to know why you didn't just use the 5x5 sheet of glass to level the bed, since one would assume that the tolerance on the two pieces of glass would be much closer than then machined parts? Using the 5x5 seemed to leave the levelling screws free on both ends. So you wouldn't have to keep rearranging the glass plate. Granted, not everyone would have both sizes, but I'd say that the main idea still comes across. And then swap it out for the 6x5 glass afterwards.

[@thetylergibson]

Yep. The only reason I showed this method is for folks who don't want to do the work to flush mount the screws, or otherwise didn't think about it.

[@airgunningyup]

im still figuring out what are the advantages to glass over blue painters tape with pla?

[@HedgehogStudios1]

How hard is it to print on bare glass with this printer? I did it on my Di3, and ohhh man I love the mirror-smooth finish, plus your prints take literally no effort to take off the bed once it's cooled down.

[@thetylergibson]

+Laser Lens not hard at all with PLA. I've never been able to do it with ABS. Even with hairspray you still get the mirror smooth finish :)

[@lukepierson7203]

So if u just use pla you don't have to use hairspray.

[@ankhcreations]

great videos

[@thetylergibson]

Andre Bond thanks man!

[@marcushosmer1856]

If I have no immediate interest to print with ABS because I am just starting out. Can I skip these steps and go into only using/focusing on PLA prints?

[@thetylergibson]

Yep!

[@pnksk8r390]

What if there is a bow during the press-test?

[@carlluther6356]

Looks as you might have a different (blue) fan duct on the printer. Did I miss that in an earlier Part?

[@thetylergibson]

+Carl Luther nope, it's just a piece of blue painters tape over the part filling duct so it doesn't blow cold air on the part, only across the heat break. For ABS this is necessary to reduce warping.

[@carlluther6356]

Thanks for the reply. I had originally asked about that when you had it in the back only.

[@AngeloTelesforo]

I hate imperial units! I have to pause to calculate those in metrics! Cant you simply go to a glass shop and have the glass custom cut?

[@OneLousyShot]

Why not just use the 5x5 are you really going to print that close to the screws plus it would level in 1/4 the time ..you wouldst need to go back and forth. 2 clicp in the center from and back and then level..

[@p.melvinshyturtle3722]

1/16th of an inch is about 1 1/2 mm.

[@EdwinFairchild]

im confused, so if pressing the home option on the screen sets the z position wouldnt it drive int your glass since we didnt "update" the z position after you did your leveling

[@thetylergibson]

No, because we installed a physical spacer as well to raise the real "0" z-height, and you should also tighten all of your bed screws before re-leveling just to be sure you clear it :)

[@pd3dprint616]

Hi, Tyler. What thickness you suggest for the glass bed?

[@thetylergibson]

+pd 3dprint the thinnest borosilicate glass you can get. 1/16" or 3/32" if you can find them

[@valveman12]

Hi Tyler I want to calibrate the XYZ and E axis because it is out a bit and want to make more accurate prints. Do you know if it is possible to connect the Mini to a computer? I see there is a micro USB connector near the SD. Have you done this yourself?

[@thetylergibson]

+valveman12 I didn't have the need to, printing calibration parts showed my XYZ within .5% accuracy and extrusion within 1-2%. Watch my tuning video (#3 in the series) to show how to connect to your PC and use pronterface. But before doing that, it's very very unlikely you'll need to do this for anything. Using the recommended layer height multiples and playing with flow rates +/- 5% should get you to tolerances of .05mm or less. Beyond that is pretty much out of reach for this printer.

[@valveman12]

Thank you again fro the quick response. Perhaps my problem is my settings. eg: when I am trying to put two piece together, such as a lid, They never fit and I have to do trial an error prints to get them to work. I will have a look at some of you other videos. Thanks again.

[@thetylergibson]

+valveman12 if it's parts you are designing yourself, give .2-.4mm separation distance for a "snap" fit. I've had the same problem designing my own parts, it does unfortunately take some trial and error sometimes. Start by printing calibration cubes and measuring with calipers to figure out how far off your parts are.

[@valveman12]

Thanks again Tyler I do like to design my own parts. I will try out the calibration cubes.

[@valveman12]

Hi Tyler I printed the calibration cube and in the worst case (Z axis) is out 0.24mm. X and Y are less. I suppose that is not bad.

[@jacobpaniagua8785]

hey, great tutorials, but quick question. I am on a tight budget and I don't have hairspray, do you think spray adhesive or spray lacquer would work instead?

[@thetylergibson]

No. Hairspray, or in a pinch elmers gluestick. If you are on such a tight budget that a $4 can of hairspray is too much, I'd wait until you can afford the hairspray :)

[@jacobpaniagua8785]

haha, no I can afford it, I just don't want to spend money on stuff if I don't have to or already have something that could be used as a substitute. but thanks!

[@jacobpaniagua8785]

Life and Times of Tyler Another question, do I need the masking tape on it, or can I just have the normal build plate? I'm worried that the making tape might not look as good.

[@thetylergibson]

You will want something as a print bonding surface. Masking tape, PEI film, BuildTak, Hair Spray or Glue Stick. You need a material to act as a bonding agent that releases when not at temperature. If you don't use glass, keep using tape.

[@jacobpaniagua8785]

no, I meant under the glass. In the video you left the masking tape on the original print surface when you put the glass bed on. I was wondering if I could take it off and not have problems.

[@Priceman5]

Is this neccesary if you have a V2 with a buildtak build plate?

[@westganton]

My print bed was convexed from the factory and I'm installing a glass print bed right now to hopefully level it out

[@iikkakonola]

Has someone tried to use smartphone tempered glass protector(s) with good results?

[@thetylergibson]

Lots of people do this, but it doesn't save you much money and has its own downsides (mostly you have a seam in the middle, because you'll need two screen protectors side by side)

[@jacobroess1334]

why do you need to put hair spray on it

[@infiniteunknown4332]

do I have to do the glass

[@TheGreatBlumpkin]

AMAZING! A $200 printer that only requires 400 hours of work to use!

[@Eunostos]

All 3D printers require getting your hands in, princess.

[@SuperLAndrus]

define a little bit......since the leveling screws are hex screws why not say move it a sixth of a turn etc. Your little bit may not be the same as my little bit.....be precise and define your terms

[@kenmckittrick7876]

Dude Technically you are awesome, but... You have Hand Model problems. Your fingernails are chewed up. I know I have the same sort of problems.I'm an HP Field Engineer so I AM ALWAYS concerned abut customer facing issues. Otherwise your info and presentation are AWESOME.

[@thetylergibson]

+Ken McKittrick I know man! Anxious habits die hard, but oh well. Honesty surprised it took this long for someone to comment about it! I'm a technical evangelist by day for Microsoft, so I know exactly what you mean!