I forgot to mention as far as the tanks, I have two with the tank behind the seat. I never smell gas or anything. I’ve heard people say that but it’s a sealed tank with the vent being in the cap outside the truck. The only way you could smell fumes would be if there was a leak somewhere letting fumes out. You can still get the 19 gallon tank and the 38 gallon tank that mounts behind the rear axle but the sending unit is only available for the 19 gallon tank. You have to modify the sending unit to use it in the 38 gallon tank. If you want to get rid of the in cab tank then I’d say the side mount tank would be your best bet.

Can you replace the octopus on the front of the engine?

That sounds so good!

Thank you for the shoutout! Glad to see you put new rings in it. I have an old truck bed that some one made into a trailer and it may have that piece of trim on it. I'll have to look at it.

While it's apart on jack stands, get a gallon of ospho and apply it to everywhere. It will kill the rust. Painting over rusty metal will look good for about 3 months and then it will all bubble back out.

Great job on the engine one thing I recommend take the in cab tank and don’t put one back in. I have two trucks with in cab tanks and the cabs always smell like gas.

Well done!! Love them FE motors!!

That old girl sounds nice! Good to see it back up and running! I wouldn't worry about the ring gaps. I've run them on the large side for years and never had a problem with them. It's nice to have it perfect, but sometimes it's out of budget. I love that black and gold, too!

Good Job! You're at a good age to quit smoking 😂

The engine looks and sounds great! I would not worry about the ring gap. The engine will be fine. When I was a kid! (Like You) I didn't have the money to do a complete rebuild. I would overhaul engines with piston-to-cylinder wall clearances past the maximum allowed. And the engines performed well. I liked the trucks with the gas tank in the frame instead of behind the seat because it gave me storage behind the seat and hearing the gas sloshing while driving is concerning.

The car looks great lowered! You did a great job in the engine compartment! I like how you ran the spark pug wires. (You're a pro with wire ties) The engine compartment lines are routed nicely. One suggestion for raising the back end is to add a leaf from a donor car. It would also help out with axle twisting. Keep up the good work!

I am m more impressed that a young man like you knows what a PCV valve is, and has a classic car. It’s great to see a young person who knows more than just about playing video games in their mom’s basement😊

Amazing keep up the 🔥 content

Great upgrades and mods, every little bit helps. Thanks for the shoutout as well bud, much appreciated. Keep up the great work.

Your factory alternator is only about 45-60amps output it's barely sufficient to run the headlights,blower motor and the engine at full load When you start adding things you need to upgrade the charging system, cable sizes and grounding paths

Great job and it sits like it should.

I’m restoring at 68 Torino currently and drilled for the Shelby drop. I went to throw the control armed back up to turn the car around for winter. And the control arm hits the shock tower in the rear and would not go in so I used upper holes just to get it moved for now. Did you have any trouble with that? I Shelby dropped my mustang years ago and didn’t have clearance issues with it..

Lookin' good

FE and the Y block Ford done were different, push rods go thru intake, part of valve cover is on the intake,

dang i thought you were going to get into the nitty gritty on how positive vacuum on the can free up some horse power and help lubricate the valve train on a daily driver. I've seen the racing guys put PCV systems to the exhaust to pull vacuum so oil never goes into the combustion chamber.

I couldn't get my 8BA flathead Ford to stop dripping oil until I added a PCV system. Best modification I ever did on my 1949 Ford F1 daily driver.

PCV valves don't make your engine run cleaner, unless if you trust everything the engineering manual says. Putting on a catch can is the best way to go. Keeps the engine and environment clean. And when neglected, they either cause lean-idle conditions, or your rear main seal to blow out.

I like your Scotty Kilmer thumbnail

Don't pull vacuum on the crank case, it will drop your oil pressure. You are barely pulling any vacuum, just pulling fresh air from the breather side down and up the other side to get the blow-by combustion gasses out so they dont foul the oil. If you had both sides routed to vacuum, you'd hear a weird noise from the air squeaking past the crank seals into the sump.

Are these 360 fe good motors only had few 390 fe in 75 4x4

Send it like it is your not racing

Run it more let the rings set break in until then it will use a little oil but hey its a gamble building any more good luck 👍

Chrysler started using PCV in 1962. I think that it is mostly an emission control device and yes, breather fumes smells like canser to me.

I'm glad you explained that a true PCV system is a controlled vacuum leak that sucks fresh outside air through the crankcase. It's not like a lawnmower that just directs a passive breather to the air cleaner housing. Where is the air intake for your PCV system? A separate filter or a tube routed back to the air cleaner?

Add a catch can between the pcv & intake manifold.

great video man! im tbi 350 swapping a Jeep YJ and trying to figure out the PCV. you made it seem a lot more clear! keep it up!

good job, and if it was sucking oil past the gasket it will clear up after you drive it a little bit

All the boomers in this comment section are gonna be like "Gahh.. the younger generation is spineless and can't handle the smell of oil, you're in a car grow some balls! *buuurp* *old people noises*" Or something like that.

They will dirty up your valves. Anything but direct injection will help with that problem. Not solve but it definitely helps. Run a cleaner through your gas tank or intake at least every oil change.

Good job! 👍

Good video as always, what are the steps you take for retorquing the rocker arms back on?

Good information to know on that FE I did not know that.

love the stuff mate

So coool🎉

What intake are you running and what are your thoughts on it? Im in the decision making process, gotta get rid of that 90 lb “s” up front!

Nothing wrong with putting it one the engine. It helps things stay cleaner. PCV was a emission and cleanliness thing. It used to be a pipe that went down to the bottom of the car next to the engine that dirtied up things pretty bad. I used to see ring bypass smoke coming out of it along with the occasional drop of oil on a good engine. A wore out engine would have a lot of smoke and oil dripping out. One of the downsides of today's direct injection engines without the added intake injectors to clean the intake runner area cause the intake valves to coke up. People should run a catch can if the engine doesn't have intake injectors. If you pull a vacuum on the inside of the engine the air is thinner and has less resistance for rotating and flopping parts along with better ring seal. I also heard there are less gasses in the oil introducing bubbles to the bearings. I didn't dig in to that one. I'm not sure how pulling a crankcase vacuum seal the rings better since, both, the cylinder wall and the piston side of the ring share almost the same crankcase pressure. The oil control grove in the piston has vent holes. A great side effect is little to no oil leaks. That is until you blow the piston down in to the crankcase from too much NOS. It gets very noisy for a couple seconds along with oil everywhere and a pissed off track manager.

Pretty cool!!!

You sure like lifting those FE intake manifolds.

You are one lucky duck finding the matching cylinder head!

Wow! Did you really bend all those pushrods by yourself? I am glad you got it running and back to cruising. I bet you notice some power gains with the heads and cam.

The FE don’t “spray oil” it’s doing exactly what it’s supposed to do. And if you’re concerned about the block have it sonic checked. But .040 over is not an issue and in a lot of cases .060 over is fine. DSS will make you a set of pistons that will bump up that compression for a really reasonable price. And it your not turning it 5K or more the oil restrictors are not a “need”

I’ve got a good running 391 industrial ready to come out of a grain truck you can have if you want it. The only issue is I’m in Canada two hours north of the US border.

I second the use of engine restore. I used it on a 120k mile all original '61 352 that smoked like a tire tool. It still smokes but nothing like it did, improved by 80%. Or rering it. Get a ridge reamer, dingle berry hone it, throw it back together and send it. You are not super stock racing. Everything doesn't need to be bored out to have perfect bores.

If it is foiling spark plugs change to a hotter plug. Engine restore does work. I have a bobcat that was starting hard. After putting 2 can of engine restore in and a couple months of use it is starting way better. The bobcat has a diesel engine so it had to improve the compression.