3:57 do you know where you get this bolt? I’ve been looking for it for so long and there’s no part number or any in stock that I see is there anything I can do to replace it?

what model switch is it? need to replace mine.

Hey my clutch rod (the one with the teeth that go into the hole) is really wobbly. Is it supposed to be just free. It moves around when I’m trying to line up the clutch cover

Need rod bearing work r u in California

Hey you didn’t show where that timing plug went.

I forgot to bleed the fork, simply filled it, and put everything back, you think it will bleed itself after a couple of rides?? Help, Thank you in advance.

Do 1st gen fz1 have a catalytic converter

any way i can get your email and send you over some pics of the crank and the cylinders and see if you might be able to give me some direction with stuff? ty

any way i can get your email and send you over some pics of the crank and the cylinders and see if you might be able to give me some direction with stuff? ty

you sir have earned a subscribe and as many likes as i can give! You are helping me rebuild my 04 r1 after spinning a bearing. You are so descriptive and literate. Thank you for your dedication sir!

Hello plz how much the size of oil seal is that 43×54×11 Or 43×55×11?

Do you remember where you ordered new bolts from since they are torque to yield bolds?

Great job except you forgot a some MAJOR steps in the rebuild. Mostly those crank seals around the rotary valve should be sealed in the case with Loctite 518 or else they will leak at some point. Do not try silicone or other sealants, it has to be anaerobic semi-flex sealant, Permatex makes the same exact stuff as Loctite. Also many of the case and cylinder-head bolts require Loctite 518 on their threads NOT Loctite 243 (248 in your vid). The use of 518 on the case bolts & cylinder-head bolts are clearly stated in the repair manual, the use on the crank seals for rotary valve is not in the book and less known but anyone that does lots of these things knows to use it on them. Also if those seals are leaking and the rest of the engine is fine I don't waste customers $$ by doing a complete rebuild or even replacing those seals. Just open the case up, clean the seals and groove the seals fit in thecase then add the Loctite 518 between the seals & case. Figured I would pass on the information to agreat tech to help a brother out. It's no fun getting one of these back after a couple seasons after a rebuild to have the seals leaking again.

At 4:55 when you put the shift shaft back in, what would be broken that would allow the shift shaft in/out/lateral play movement? Thank you for your time, same engine on an FZ1

What is the tool name please the magnet?

I know its a tough job especially having all the right shims

Great

Hello, Thank you for this tutorial. It was a huge help when I was changing bearings. I have a question: do you know what the big number 4 stands for in the crank? Can be seen at 3 minute mark on this video. Previous owner has erased and regrooved number on that place in my engine.

how much did it cost you to rebuild it yourself?

Thank you for helpful video

HELP! what stand or lift do I need to remove engine, etc…thanks in advance

What are the cam positions you point to but didn't show?

Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

Don’t tell me you quit making videos! Your goated!

Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

Merci beaucoup ❤

Merci beaucoup ❤

song name?

this mans looks like canelo lol appreciate the video tho fr

Nice work 👍😎

Where can i get a copy of that manual?

Awesome videos man! I have another Fz1 for ya to rebuild when your ready!😂😂😂 Ivan’s tuning kit and all!

Good video. But why you do not whant to show deetails. Like balanser shaft, timing point have 2 teath diapason.

I have to say I searched youtube for a proper yamaha r1 engine rebuild and this is the best one, very detailed and going over everything. This series you can learn how to build a yamaha r1 engine from top to bottom without ever rebuilding any engine before...like me. I successfully rebuilt my 2007 yamaha r1 engine only thanks to this video. I had a spun bearing and buying a used engine was too expensive. I grinded and polished the crank myself at home using the shoelace method as well to fix the scratches on crank, but got a new rod since it was black from the heat. I then used this series to build the engine up. Thank you

Thanks, just did mine, big help. Should I use threadlock or antisieze on the bolts? Torque specs?

Thanks you ❤️

very good. I just ordered new boots for mine, they are all cracked

Really nice

what are those block off plates on top? smog pump delete?

What are those block off plates? smog pump delete?

what if you mix up the valves and buckets?

can you sand blast cylinders if they have carbon deposits on them? Does not harm anything?

What color bulbs did you buy. All white?

I just can't pull chamber down over those rings man---they want to expand out and thus restrict---you made it look easy but it is not and you also did not use any gasket sealant on your base gasket?

Sir I cannot Thankyou enough. I just purchased a 2004 r1 and plan on getting it down to the frame and completely rebuilding it. These videos are a gold find Thankyou. If I had any questions is there any place I could message you maybe instagram?

I’m about to start a 2003 r1 but I don’t know where to start

At 17:50 what do you mean by the oil rings being springy? When mine went in, they simmed kind of stiff, but could move if I really pushed on them.

Thank you soooooo much brother, I would’ve never attempted swapping my engine if it wasn’t for your videos/help… I appreciate you.

Great job man 🙌 i have a 05 r1 in my garage well its my uncles bike he launched and tore up 1st gear plus snaped the chain and craked the block its got a 2"x3" access hole 😢 Am thinking on taking on this project so thats the reason i just watch all 10 rebuild videos i feel confident know since its a really detailed series thanks for taking ur time showing step by step 💪🙌 bike only had 16k 😢

Hello, good job, it is helping me a lot but I have a question. When you put the new screws on the connecting rod and you have to tighten them to 15 nw and then to 29 nw, I don't see that you do the 29 nw. That is the procedure correct before installing the connecting rod on the crankshaft definitely? thanks for your help.