Thanks for your comment. Yeah thats something that can be done, but it's very "custom worky" and it's difficult to for sure test things this way. Best thing is to just have body parts that are designed to fit together.

Glad it was helpful!

It can be done responsibly.

Nothing's perfect at perfect airsoft!! ;)

Well, BB's with that amount of difference are defective, and i would only consider ever using 5.95mm with good tolerance. The same goes for uneven molded BB's. It is not really a "factor" to change, more like a defective BB.

The degree of the bucking changes the friction in relation to the temperature. So in cold weather a softer bucking performs better than a harder one. The degree should be in balance to the power of the gun and the BB weight. As the video mentions to much spin results in climbing BBs. So when you are using lighter BBs in strong guns you need a harder bucking. Not that simple. ;)

That's a good approach. I also mention this in the videos, that there's some differences to the expected results, especially at the extreme ends. It is also seen sometimes that people make wrong highspeed setups (HS motor + HS gear), but the gun still works because the tiny battery makes the RPS low lol.

Yeah something along those lines. It starts to get a bit hazy at the extreme ends, but the formula is good for changes within reason.

@djentydjamie Thanks for your input. Well, the video is agnostic on parts. The Maxx chamber is used to show the concepts, but the video is not about the maxx chamber. I think you could be interested in watching the full video :)

PME is complex. That EVO setup there would work just fine yes. Difficult to say at a glance about your AK, but swing by our discord server: discord.gg/Pj8adPVnuH There's a handful of people there with tech knowledge.

Much appreciated

That's hardly fair lol

@@PerfectAirsoft HPA upgrade = once and for all

@@PerfectAirsoft id get a Kythera if I dont have much budget. A simple Kythera is already better than the greatest gear box build for semi auto. A Jack if you want auto. Why waste time on gears shimming and aoe corrections when you can actually get a mouseclick level responsive trigger in 5-10 minutes.

@@jasonlai980142 I'd rather piss blood than have an HPA hose

@@jasonlai980142 Endurance milsim. No tether.

Thanks ✌️

Yeah i had my fair share of mistakes many years ago, i hope to make it easy for others lol

That's a good idea, but it's really complicated. There are many factors involved with finding the PME limit. Unfortunately not something i could go into depth with in this video, but it could be done in the future for sure.

You want a recipe to replicate, right? 😂

@@BeWolf. no I have my own recipes. Just this this guy could get the information out with more of a Science feel

buy this

I know right!! You should find more likeminded people on our discord haha discord.gg/Pj8adPVnuH

Through the empty cylinder window or bottom/side openings.

Yeah check out my discord if you want a more in depth explanation: discord.gg/Pj8adPVnuH It's a more nuanced case than what many hometechs have repeated from each other. 9/10 times the issue is with motor mis-alignment, and no amount of bevel shimming will solve that.

But isn't the impact energy made from speed and weight? So if you increase the speed, you increase the energy... :)

Glad to hear that! If you have more questions or ideas, check out our discord community as well.

Thanks for watching! Come to discord.gg/Pj8adPVnuH and have a talk :) The gearset moves slower in semi and has more time to push past the nozzle. If you do the gravity droptest, it should block feeding also in semi. The other steps in the video explains this and some remedies.

It's been quite a few years since i worked on one of those. Yeah i remember there's some wierd system there, also a terribly long nozzle that is difficult to replace. I remember having to modify the ID of an aftermarket nozzle to fit.

Yeah you're right. I'm not a big fan of SGC's when they're used blindly, but they do have their merits.

You are welcome!

Thanks!

Yep it is a very basic video, it's the fundamentals :D But as basic as it seems, plenty of people can't grasp this, myself included many years ago. It took ages for people to figure out how RHOP worked. You're right about those other points, but they're not factors that we as end users have a control other. Or they're not relevant on an average scenario basis. Eg. if you talk about how far a BB flies, it's assumed we measure in a zero-wind environment, or at a common altitude.

Thanks for watching! :) Multiple BB loading is down to the tappet plate and gear overspin or ARL function, usually. Check out the discord discord.gg/Pj8adPVnuH and maybe we can help you out :)

Thanks!

Yeah i agree. That's why i wanted to make this video about it.

Thanks, much appreciated. Check out the discord and let met know what topics you'd like.

Thanks didn't know. Not everyone is using a maxx hopup unit though :)

Glad you like it! Check out the discord server if you want to talk more baout this as well. Some delayer clips wrap around the sector cam pin, and this causes a further pullback of the nozzle. There are also tappet plates that are "shorter", which means they pull back further as well.

People do though. It's the standard for airsoftguns. It works well, just doesn't mix with silicone buckings. What do you think?

For the people

Funny you ask.... ;)

Austria

You're right. It's the most popular, and in theory AEG knowledge transfers between platforms, but there could be some quirks and work methods unique to V3 worth knowing. What do you suggest? Maybe let me know on discord discord.gg/55D8vuUz

Let me know how it goes! There's also discord for more contact: discord.gg/55D8vuUz

Thanks, that makes it all worth it. Check out my discord community if you're interested in more tech knowledge discord.com/invite/55D8vuUz

@@PerfectAirsoft oh, thanks man I'll hop right in

Check out my discord for more tech help :) discord.gg/55D8vuUz If you are sure that bucking length is an issue, you can use a bucking with shorter lips. This is unfortunately a trial and error thing, as it is not a common thing to highlight. Begadi has some buckings with shorter lips, IIRC, and maple leaf AEG buckings tend to be slightly longer than normal (common issue).

@@PerfectAirsoft link doesnt work anymore can we get a new one? amazing vid!

@@BaalRS discord.gg/Pj8adPVnuH

I'm glad you could use it! That makes it all worth it. Check out my discord server discord.gg/55D8vuUz Let me know there if you have other AEG troubleshooting or video ideas :)

Thanks for your comment. You're right that a conical nozzle has an easier time entering / going over the BB stack, i highlight this in the video. My experience is that, barring midcap syndrome, flat nozzles seal better and feed better. Surprisingly, sealing on the front of the bucking lips work very well and has a consistent airseal on the whole surface area. A conicai nozzle will, in theory, suffer easier blowby the moment it's not centered. A conical needs to be longer by definition. If you take a flat nozzle that is sealing, and shave it down to a conical shape, it will no longer seal. Sealing at the front of the bucking lips is the shortest movement to sealing, and any other method requires a longer nozzle. Looking at the begadi bucking drawings, they seem to have narrowed the inside of the bucking lips. This is a no-go, as it can cause jams, and additionally, lips are soft and can expand outwards, so ultimately the sideways airseal is decided by the lips being squeezed between nozzle and chamber wall.

Thanks man, glad you like it. @paragonarmory did a video on that that i think is just fine, so that's worth a look (his video is what made me make these two in depth nozzle videos). But i'll see if there's something i can formulate on this subject. Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks for commenting. Yeah you're right, it's not touched on per say. But that's because that it's the last link in the shimming steps. The bevel is defined by the pinion mesh, and the spur is defined by the sector which is defined by the piston / tappet. So the intention is simply to hope that the spur and bevel matches OK, and if they don't, use different parts. There has to be a compromise in the system, and it's best to do it there.

Bevel to pinion is the right way to do it. It is the most important point for transmitting rotation in your gearbox and it is the one that will cause the most problems

@@ObitoLeTueur Thanks for your input. If you watch the video fully, you can see how it is explained. Feel free to hit me up on discord if you're interested in this.

There's room for everyone. I take bevel last, but there's no problem in doing bevel first really. The important point is that bevel-pinion and spur-sector are shimmed as two seperate groups first, and then combined in the event with compromises. Thanks for the compliment. It's a long video, not everyone's cup of tea, but i've wanted to do a definitive series on AEG shimming for a while.

There is some truths there 😂

Glad you like it!