Do you consider that the Zeees you get 2 for the same price of 1 "premium" LiPo?

🤩🤩✊👍 nice results! Thanks Ryan! Hope this "capacity test" videos will continue 😎😏

I'd like to see a video of these batteries all on the same car, same track timers, and drive to failure.

My CNHL Black lasted longer than the CNHL Pizza 🍕 Both 6s lipo Good video thank you 🧩🌱

I did a test yesterday with 9000cnhl's. XLXL2 with Castel 2028. Single CNHL 6s 9000mah gets drawn down all the to 14V and cuts massively. Then I ran 2 6S's in parallel and it ran like bat out of hell. Voltage dropped 25.2V to 21V at 410Amp on the parallel setup.The CNHL really is not a speed run pack. I just ordered 8600mah 3S and 4S SRD V3's. I'm super eager to see what they do.

I don’t know about the dirt cheap Chinese batteries but if you buy from a decent company if you’ll pay attention to the spec sheet, most of them will give you a plus or -5 to 10% of the true milliamp hours of the rated milliamp hours on the pack Let’s say 5000. Million it will then tell you actual milliamps plus or -5% or depending on the company plus or -10% this is usually in the spec sheet on most batteries that I’ve noticed.

Not to be mean, but if you're not taking it apart to show it, it may as well be a list on the screen. Those who know, would already know and not need the video.

Over and underrated specs aren't breaking news....you're obsessed with these zee batteries 😂

can this be demostrated on an oscilloscope?

You my friend are a legend THANK YOU SO MUCH!

INA219 Current/Voltage Sensor. Adafruit Arduino. And you can even store data logs on an Arduino Uno with SD, or Micro SD Card. You could do static bench testing of your batteries. Or a breakout board that is flight weight small form factor.

Hi Ryan. Is there any manufacturer that is honest about the specifications listed? Who should the average modeler trust?

accounting for non usable voltage is what ZEE is doing. The weight says alot, and alot of manufacturers like to account for non usable capacity on their lables

I have that battery and use it in my spark , nothing wrong with it , I would buy an other one but is last so long that there is no need for a second one

I tested a 3s 5200mah Zeee and it hit about 5400mah according to my charger.

Just buy SMC.

Hey man thanks for lisenting to my comment about capacity!

I think the most likely thing happening here is Zeee is A.) Cherry picking test data from their batteries and B). Designing any tests that they do specifically to increase the performance of their packs. Example, Lipo batteries can be charged higher than the rated voltage, even if only slightly, and discharged below 3.2 volts so testing an over charged pack down to 2.8 volts would yield better test data. Testing the packs after preheating to optimal temperature would also increase pack performance slightly. Last, testing the pack with on a very low power draw (say 100 milli-amps).

The difference between the listed 5200mAh and the rated 5000mAh could be due to variations in testing methods or tolerances. Manufacturers may test under different conditions, or the slight discrepancy could be due to rounding or how the capacity is measured. It’s not uncommon for small differences to appear, but generally, it shouldn’t significantly impact the performance of the pack. I’ve run these packs down to 2.8 volts without issue and end up putting about 4800 back in with 10-11% showing on my meter and for the price they perform adequately. I’ll continue to buy them for my models that don’t need to pull high amps and enjoy saving some $$.

Great content again. Always the consumers getting the raw end. We have to stay vigilant with most products we purchase these days. There’s nearly always an angle on every purchase we make.

It's pretty typical for a 5000mah pack to hold more than the specified amount usually. For example 30% storage capacity *1500mah* will typically hold another 3800-4000mah from *3.8V* This totals around 5500mah from completely empty. These lipo companies are giving a rough average not exact numbers

It's misrepresentation plain and simple,

Glad you asked for comments. I do testing. How, you might ask? I fly with an iX14 which records telemetry. I fly with telemetry capable receivers and ESC's (i.e. Spektrum Smart ESC's) I write software, database stuff mostly, so I've written software that takes the telemetry file and calculates the actual mAh's used in a flight, and the remaining capacity left after the flight. This gives me, for every flight, every battery I use, a real measure of the actual mAh's the battery can deliver. One brand actually gives (for some of them) MORE than the label, those are the Spektrum Smart batteries. Another brand, SMC, pretty much gives me what the label says. All others which I have give less and sometimes, (like the China Hobby Line) MUCH less than the label says (on the order of 40% less). I don't find the calculations to be precise from one flight to another but it allows me to see the overall quality of the battery. It depends a little on the temperature, a little on the flying style, and a little on how much you draw from the battery as to what the software calculates from a flight. When the flight is done the software takes the final resting voltage to determine the remaining percentage. My flying style is such that my average throttle is about 65% and I only flight EDF's or pusher prop planes. The testing I do therefore is actual, real world (not bench) testing. Pretty much I fly all my 6S packs in the same planes, whether my FW Avanti, FW L39, eFlite Havoc 80 or a couple of other jets. So it's not like I'm comparing apples to oranges in the flights. The results are pretty much the same regardless of which plane I fly the battery in. I've pinged the CNHL batteries as being the worst. I have 2, white 6S, 6200 mAh packs and 2 black 6S, 6000 packs. None of them come close to their label rating. I don't get batteries sent to me for testing so my repertoire is just what I choose to buy: Smart, SMC, Admiral (they're also not bad), CNHL, Roaring Top, and HRB. You can spend more on batteries than you do on airplanes in this hobby. Of course every telemetry file is saved and I store everything in a database so I can look over how each battery has performed for any flight. Matter of fact I store every bit of data that I can squeeze out of the telemetry and also the calculations like max/average speed, altitude, Amps, throttle, even the temperature and wind from my weather station (if I fly at home.) Hey! I'm a database guy so ... that's what I do. I don't try to calculate C ratings, just the actual mAh value of the pack. If you want to compare notes I'd be happy to.

It comes down to lying to make more sales.

That actually makes perfect sense. The further you are from the fulcrum point (in this case the centre) the more your force is multiplied. Basic theories of levers

Is 13mm too much for 1/10 trx4 sport high trail ?:)

all a cap pack does is trick the castle data logging into not seeing ripple

For speed runs if you feed in your throttle slowly, surely the delay will help smooth out any sudden input

So I had a spektrum dx5c,and my new transmitter is the new dx6 rugged.been running 2s lipo transmitter batteries in the 5c for years, and now running a 4000mah 2s in my new rugged.love it because I can almost go all summer on 1 charge! Have 10 surface vehicles in my fleet right now,and run them all,all summer long.all you have to do is take out the aa holder,wire in a connector,and there you have it.that being said,the battery indicator will show full charge all the time,so I just watch the actual battery voltage.when it gets down to 6.8 volts or so,I simply take it out and charge it.

Hey Ryan, here's my 2 cents: I have long used Ikea rechargeable AA batteries without problems. The Ikea AA batteries have a claimed capacity of 2450 mAh - no idea if that number is accurate, but they seem to last quite long. At home, I don't leave batteries in any of my transmitters, but with 2 battery chargers, there's always a whole bunch of batteries that are fully charged and ready to go. Keep your batteries and yourself fully charged guys!

In my Spektrum radio I use AA lithium 1.5v batteries. They are the c-type USB plug rechargeable batteries. They fit and give you the correct voltage.

I like Lippo battery in the transmitter

This was really interesting, I appreciate you made this video! Yes, these are considerations I have been struggling with for a while, I am fed up with the damned AA's! Especially the fact that in some transmitters I can't use rechargable ones, either because the voltage is low, or because they are a bit thicker so won't fit inside the handle on those radios that have that design... I also opted for the LiFe battery in a Futaba radio, and now I might do the same on my new Dumbo DDF, or I might try the new style 1.6V LiPo AA cells that are apparently available, it is 2024 after all...😁

i drobe fl8ghf yoz have an average amp and a oeak (when pushing up high in the sky) but that peak is maybe a second or two max time

I just ran my big 9500mah cnhl 4s and 6S packs on my limitless. They are not doing well. On my xlx2 with a TP4070 motor they get pulled down from 33.7V all the way to 16V😮. Current draw is 580Amp. That is a massive voltage drop and show that the quality of the cell chemistry is not good at all. Are they better than say a gens ace. Yes. But they are not even close to the premium speed run batteries like Onyx and others in that class.

I used turnigy and gens and the turnigy batteries are still running great where the gens died a long time ago. What do you think of turnigy?

love the data you present! great job

PLEASE test the gnb 5000 6s 50c. They are suspiciously low in weight, being about 100 grams lighter than the CNHL 5000mah. Also can you do actual capacity tests at like 30amps instead of at 105 amps as well?

I was told on my build. I have a GT Chassis V2 limitless. Never ran YET. I am going for a single motor world record. 😂. I am ! Don’t laugh! 😂. But a 34T and 45T gear for the 2.8 ratio diff with a locker in the rear. On a xlx2 2028 castle 1700kv. On BSR Foams. What are yall thoughts? I also of course have a PP CF GT Driveshaft kit. PPS motor mount. PP Carbon fiber kit. Titanium shock standoffs. Speedrun springs. fc100 body. Let me know?

Maybe 3.5T is too much.... I think 7.5T is better coupled with a 120amp controller should keep me happy what do you think @RCexplained ?

Thanks for the info, looks like a good idea to have a cap pack even my WLtoys cars have dual caps on them,I should get some for my 3.5T 5.5T or 7.5T (haven't decided just yet) Tamiya build , I'm going over the top with it

Sounds like a jet approaching, insane 😊

That's a sick kar

They're so long, must have bucket loads of torque

Thank you.

The full-size aviation and automotive community has concluded that crimping is the more reliable form of connection versus soldering. This is due to the potential for soldered connections breaking due to vibrations work hardening the solder joints and thus making them brittle. This is not a problem when you can inspect the connections during every use for RC but it is something to consider.

I've used various brands and all seem the same. It's like 1 or 2 manufacturers make the cells and the distributors just slap their connectors and label on them? Whatever is best priced on Ebay is what I get.

OKY ...SO I DID SOME CALCULATIONS , WHERE I TOOK THE TOTAL WING SPAN OF ABOUT (900CM^2 , BOTH SIDES 30CM LENGTH AND 15CM WIDTH ), AND I TOOK 2 (1400KV B.LD.C MOTORS )WITH 10INCH PROP , RADIUS OF 5 INCH DUTRING ROTATION WITH 4 INCH PITCH LENGTH , AND 2 12 VOLT LIPO BATTERIES TO POWER THEM , AND MY PLANE WEIGHT AROUND 2KG , SO THE REQUIRED LIFT FORCE IS 20N , NOW THOSE 2 MOTORS WILL INITIALLY GENERATE A BACKWARD WIND VELOCITY OF 25M/S ROUGHLY...WHICH WILL CREAT A LIFT FORCE OF AROUND 35N ( WIND DENSITY TAKEN AS 1.22KG/M^3), SO theoretically my plane should fly very quickly right?

Can i put at 3.0v on my rc car because my rc car esc can't go under 3.0v

Any real world test bashing/speedruns? Not even the vids of the battery's hooked up to the equipment when testing...Just spreadsheet screenshots. That's not scientific or transparent 🚫